文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Once you’ve got your plants home, if you’re going to plant them in the garden, you need to do it right. By “right,” it means to create a succulent garden or add them to your garden using the same principles as an English garden.
A way to achieve a natural-looking succulent garden is to create a rockery. Rockeries — sections of the garden landscaped with rocks of various sizes — are especially effective on slopes or terraced areas where they help that area become a focal point in the landscape. In the case of succulents, this also mimics many of their native habitats.
Creating an English garden look simply means to plant succulents in groups or plant communities so they have a natural look in the landscape.
Don’t put one here and one there. Another mistake home gardeners often make is planting in rows, which leads to a boring look in the landscape.
Because virtually all succulents prefer well-draining soils, it’s a good idea to mix sand and gravel into native soils if you don’t have well-draining soil in your garden. Some can go for days and weeks without water, but some prefer more regular moisture. But, despite their moisture preferences, none like standing water against their crowns or for soil to stay too wet for very long. That’s where the well-draining soil comes into play. You can water normally, even onto the crowns, and the proper soil for succulents will wick the water away.
Growing Succulents in Pots
A good pot-soil combination for growing succulents in containers is to choose a porous terra cotta pot and a soil mix that will drain quickly. A general mix that works well for many succulents is one that combines one part of organic matter with one part of sand or a gritty medium.
Perhaps the biggest danger in growing succulents, especially in pots, is loving them too much — gardening code words for overwatering. Both indoors and outdoors, succulents actually require little care and water. At most, folks might want to prune them back or take cuttings to propagate.
Succulents are also ideal for pots and over wintering indoors because they can easily adapt to the dry humidity and lower light found in most homes.
Pests
Succulents are generally pest resistant. When there are problems, the main outdoor pests tend to be scale and aphids with inside pests usually being fungus gnats, mealybugs, woolly aphids and, maybe, spider mites, she explained. Neem oil or horticultural oil work well in controlling unwanted visitors in both situations.
A way to achieve a natural-looking succulent garden is to create a rockery. Rockeries — sections of the garden landscaped with rocks of various sizes — are especially effective on slopes or terraced areas where they help that area become a focal point in the landscape. In the case of succulents, this also mimics many of their native habitats.
Creating an English garden look simply means to plant succulents in groups or plant communities so they have a natural look in the landscape.
Don’t put one here and one there. Another mistake home gardeners often make is planting in rows, which leads to a boring look in the landscape.
Because virtually all succulents prefer well-draining soils, it’s a good idea to mix sand and gravel into native soils if you don’t have well-draining soil in your garden. Some can go for days and weeks without water, but some prefer more regular moisture. But, despite their moisture preferences, none like standing water against their crowns or for soil to stay too wet for very long. That’s where the well-draining soil comes into play. You can water normally, even onto the crowns, and the proper soil for succulents will wick the water away.
Growing Succulents in Pots
A good pot-soil combination for growing succulents in containers is to choose a porous terra cotta pot and a soil mix that will drain quickly. A general mix that works well for many succulents is one that combines one part of organic matter with one part of sand or a gritty medium.
Perhaps the biggest danger in growing succulents, especially in pots, is loving them too much — gardening code words for overwatering. Both indoors and outdoors, succulents actually require little care and water. At most, folks might want to prune them back or take cuttings to propagate.
Succulents are also ideal for pots and over wintering indoors because they can easily adapt to the dry humidity and lower light found in most homes.
Pests
Succulents are generally pest resistant. When there are problems, the main outdoor pests tend to be scale and aphids with inside pests usually being fungus gnats, mealybugs, woolly aphids and, maybe, spider mites, she explained. Neem oil or horticultural oil work well in controlling unwanted visitors in both situations.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Pelargonium is a genus of flowering plants native to southern Africa and Australia, which includes about 200 species, commonly known as Geraniums (in the United States also Storksbills). Confusingly, Geranium is the botanical name (and also common name) of a separate genus of related plants often called Cranesbills. Both genera belong to the family Geraniaceae. Linnaeus originally included all the species in one genus, Geranium, and they were later separated into two genera by Charles L’Héritier in 1789.
Pelargonium occurs in a large number of growth forms, including herbaceous annuals, shrubs, subshrubs, stem succulents and geophytes. The erect stems bear five-petaled flowers in umbel-like clusters, which are occasionally branched. Leaves are usually alternate, and palmately lobed or pinnate, often on long stalks, and sometimes with light or dark patterns.
Some species are true succulents with water- storage tissues in the steams, a few species even appear to have succulent leaves, some are underground geophytes.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Most Pelargoniums are grown in pots in a green house or conservatory. They can also be grown inside the house, but need to be in the most sunniest area possible.
Many species do well when they are planted outside in an open area, so that they can become larger plants. This can be a problem though if you want to replant them in a pot for the winter months. Cuttings can be taken in the summer time instead to make new plants.
Succulent species grow well with other succulents and cacti. Pelargonium are very attractive and one of the toughest and most durable succulents.
Pelargoniums main requirement is a warm, sunny, sheltered location. Many species will tolerate drought conditions for short periods. They will show you when they wants water by producing a crop of new leaves, almost all species are winter growers. After the summer you can wait until the plant begins to grow, but you can also give them lights spryings or shower to stimulate their growth, when they are in full leaves they like water, but as always keep the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause unnatural growth.
Pelargonium occurs in a large number of growth forms, including herbaceous annuals, shrubs, subshrubs, stem succulents and geophytes. The erect stems bear five-petaled flowers in umbel-like clusters, which are occasionally branched. Leaves are usually alternate, and palmately lobed or pinnate, often on long stalks, and sometimes with light or dark patterns.
Some species are true succulents with water- storage tissues in the steams, a few species even appear to have succulent leaves, some are underground geophytes.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Most Pelargoniums are grown in pots in a green house or conservatory. They can also be grown inside the house, but need to be in the most sunniest area possible.
Many species do well when they are planted outside in an open area, so that they can become larger plants. This can be a problem though if you want to replant them in a pot for the winter months. Cuttings can be taken in the summer time instead to make new plants.
Succulent species grow well with other succulents and cacti. Pelargonium are very attractive and one of the toughest and most durable succulents.
Pelargoniums main requirement is a warm, sunny, sheltered location. Many species will tolerate drought conditions for short periods. They will show you when they wants water by producing a crop of new leaves, almost all species are winter growers. After the summer you can wait until the plant begins to grow, but you can also give them lights spryings or shower to stimulate their growth, when they are in full leaves they like water, but as always keep the soil dry out between waterings. Overwatering can cause unnatural growth.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
It is possible to include garden-quality outdoor succulent plants in any landscape, anywhere in the country. The unique but commonly-grown plants, which usually have fleshy leaves or plump stems or roots for storing water in dry seasons, come in a wide array of shapes, sizes, foliage colors, flowers, and often unique frills and bristles. And many can tolerate hard freezes.
Use them as stunning single-use focal point plants, durable groundcovers for difficult slopes, patio accents, or grouped in colorful combinations. Some are suitable for living fences, brush fire defense, and even home-grown burglar protection.
In-ground succulents can be combined with container-grown species for added emphasis, especially with those which may need moving seasonally out of adverse weather.
What Garden Succulents Need
There are three major considerations for growing succulents outdoors: Temperatures both winter and summer, amount and timing of natural rainfall, and duration and intensity of sunlight. Get around them all by choosing the right plants for your area, preparing soil for better drainage, and protecting some from hot mid-summer sun.
Temperature
Many popular garden succulents will tolerate mild freezes, even teens and lower, including certain Aloes and Senecios, Golden Barrel Cactus, Cholla (Cylindropuntia), Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria). Echeveria, and Graptopetalum. At least half a dozen types, mainly certain species of Yucca, Agave, Sempervivum, Delosperma, Opuntia, and Sedum, can easily survive being left outdoors in USDA Zone 4 or 5, which can get to -30°F (-35°C). Also keeping container plants close to buildings will help protect borderline species from cold injury. Some extremely cold tolerant alpine succulents, including London Pride Saxifrage (Saxifraga × urbium) will simply melt in warm climates.
Sun
In general, all succulents do best in sun; many will get leggy and weak without at least six hours of sun daily, and many get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun. Plants with colorful foliage tend to take more intense sun than green or variegated varieties.
However, some will fade, spot, or even burn in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Rainfall
Succulents are able to tolerate dry conditions for a long time, but usually grow and flower better with regular watering during the active growing season. Though quite a few, including Opuntia, Yucca, Aloe, Echinocereus, Cylindropuntia, Mammillaria, Agave, and Delosperma, can survive in most arid or summer-dry parts of the country on rainfall alone, most will need watering at least every few weeks, often more in very hot areas.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, so most gardeners keep outdoor succulents on the dry side during rainy weather, especially in winter, to both help reduce rot and help them survive lower temperatures; this may mean covering them from rain, or keeping them in pots to be moved under a protective porch roof.
How to Plant Succulents Outdoors
Plant as early in the season as possible to allow succulents to become established before winter, but be prepared to protect cold hardy kinds the first winter.
In most cases, native soils and container soils alike will need amending with other materials to increase water drainage during rainy seasons. Add a little compost or other organic matter, and up to fifty percent total volume with coarse sand, pumice, grit, or kitty litter-like soil amendments used by professional turf managers to loosen soils. Till these into at least the top six or eight inches of native soil.
Firm soil mix carefully as you plant, firming it as you go, and cover the area with coarse sand or gravel. Allow them to settle in for a day or two before watering, and fertilize lightly in the spring with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer.
And again, supplement in-ground succulents with container-grown ones, plus natural accents such as small boulders, gnarly driftwood, glass sculpture, or a section of fence made of weathered wood, adobe, or stone.
Use them as stunning single-use focal point plants, durable groundcovers for difficult slopes, patio accents, or grouped in colorful combinations. Some are suitable for living fences, brush fire defense, and even home-grown burglar protection.
In-ground succulents can be combined with container-grown species for added emphasis, especially with those which may need moving seasonally out of adverse weather.
What Garden Succulents Need
There are three major considerations for growing succulents outdoors: Temperatures both winter and summer, amount and timing of natural rainfall, and duration and intensity of sunlight. Get around them all by choosing the right plants for your area, preparing soil for better drainage, and protecting some from hot mid-summer sun.
Temperature
Many popular garden succulents will tolerate mild freezes, even teens and lower, including certain Aloes and Senecios, Golden Barrel Cactus, Cholla (Cylindropuntia), Pincushion Cactus (Mammillaria). Echeveria, and Graptopetalum. At least half a dozen types, mainly certain species of Yucca, Agave, Sempervivum, Delosperma, Opuntia, and Sedum, can easily survive being left outdoors in USDA Zone 4 or 5, which can get to -30°F (-35°C). Also keeping container plants close to buildings will help protect borderline species from cold injury. Some extremely cold tolerant alpine succulents, including London Pride Saxifrage (Saxifraga × urbium) will simply melt in warm climates.
Sun
In general, all succulents do best in sun; many will get leggy and weak without at least six hours of sun daily, and many get more colorful and flower better in eight or more hours of direct sun. Plants with colorful foliage tend to take more intense sun than green or variegated varieties.
However, some will fade, spot, or even burn in the intense heat of full sun, especially in humid climates and when temperatures remain above 90°F (32°C) or so; these need to be shaded from mid-day and afternoon sun by buildings, lattice, arbors, shade cloth, or trees with light, fine-textured foliage.
Rainfall
Succulents are able to tolerate dry conditions for a long time, but usually grow and flower better with regular watering during the active growing season. Though quite a few, including Opuntia, Yucca, Aloe, Echinocereus, Cylindropuntia, Mammillaria, Agave, and Delosperma, can survive in most arid or summer-dry parts of the country on rainfall alone, most will need watering at least every few weeks, often more in very hot areas.
Still, too much water is worse than too little, so most gardeners keep outdoor succulents on the dry side during rainy weather, especially in winter, to both help reduce rot and help them survive lower temperatures; this may mean covering them from rain, or keeping them in pots to be moved under a protective porch roof.
How to Plant Succulents Outdoors
Plant as early in the season as possible to allow succulents to become established before winter, but be prepared to protect cold hardy kinds the first winter.
In most cases, native soils and container soils alike will need amending with other materials to increase water drainage during rainy seasons. Add a little compost or other organic matter, and up to fifty percent total volume with coarse sand, pumice, grit, or kitty litter-like soil amendments used by professional turf managers to loosen soils. Till these into at least the top six or eight inches of native soil.
Firm soil mix carefully as you plant, firming it as you go, and cover the area with coarse sand or gravel. Allow them to settle in for a day or two before watering, and fertilize lightly in the spring with a low-nitrogen garden fertilizer.
And again, supplement in-ground succulents with container-grown ones, plus natural accents such as small boulders, gnarly driftwood, glass sculpture, or a section of fence made of weathered wood, adobe, or stone.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents are among the easiest plants to propagate, largely because the plants have a strong sense of self-preservation. The drought tolerant plants root with little encouragement from you, and new plants can be grown from existing ones. You even can ignore the cuttings for weeks and the plants will be fine.
Gardening trends come and go, but the popularity of succulents has been going strong for quite some time. It’s understandable. They require little supplemental water and they endure with benign neglect. They can be grown indoors if you have sufficient light, and can be used as temporary decor, such as for place settings, and then added to your collection.
The plants also can be quite beautiful, and their unique sizes, colors and forms make them a favorite.
General Care
Knowing how much to water your succulents is mostly trial and error. Most die from getting too much water, but if you notice the bottom leaves on the plant starting to shrivel, that’s a sign the plant isn’t getting enough water. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
Some succulents need full sun to develop color, but most appreciate some afternoon shade. If there are wide spaces between leaves, the plant isn’t getting enough light. Burns on the leaves may indicate it is getting too much sun.
Many succulents are frost tender. During the winter, you can bring them indoors or place them beneath a tree or close to the house to help protect them. Covering them with protective cloth or placing old-fashioned Christmas lights around them can help them survive freezing temperatures.
Succulents grow well in pots, but they’ll do even better in the ground if you have the right soil. They need soil that drains well, and that’s not most of our clay soils. You can amend your soil to make it more friable by adding sand and compost. Create your own soil for pots by combining perlite and sand with standard potting soil.
All plants need fertilizer, especially those in pots, but they will survive without it. They may not be as robust, but they will survive.
If you’re worried about certain plants being lost in the winter frost, take cuttings from the plant in the fall and grow them plants indoor until spring. You may lose your outdoor plant, but you’ll have something to replace it.
Propagation
Most succulents can be propagated through cuttings or leaves.
For cuttings, simply snip off a piece of the plant and set it aside in a shady place. Let it rest for a couple of days to harden off, allowing the freshly cut end to callous over. Then pop it in a pot or the ground and water. Cuttings can be left for a couple of weeks before planting.
To grow from leaves, remove the entire leaf and set aside in a shady spot. In about three weeks, roots will form on the leaf and a new plant will develop at the base.
Succulents can be rooted in water, but most will rot rather than develop roots. As they are so easy to root out of water, there’s not anything to be gained.
Gardening trends come and go, but the popularity of succulents has been going strong for quite some time. It’s understandable. They require little supplemental water and they endure with benign neglect. They can be grown indoors if you have sufficient light, and can be used as temporary decor, such as for place settings, and then added to your collection.
The plants also can be quite beautiful, and their unique sizes, colors and forms make them a favorite.
General Care
Knowing how much to water your succulents is mostly trial and error. Most die from getting too much water, but if you notice the bottom leaves on the plant starting to shrivel, that’s a sign the plant isn’t getting enough water. Allow soil to dry between waterings.
Some succulents need full sun to develop color, but most appreciate some afternoon shade. If there are wide spaces between leaves, the plant isn’t getting enough light. Burns on the leaves may indicate it is getting too much sun.
Many succulents are frost tender. During the winter, you can bring them indoors or place them beneath a tree or close to the house to help protect them. Covering them with protective cloth or placing old-fashioned Christmas lights around them can help them survive freezing temperatures.
Succulents grow well in pots, but they’ll do even better in the ground if you have the right soil. They need soil that drains well, and that’s not most of our clay soils. You can amend your soil to make it more friable by adding sand and compost. Create your own soil for pots by combining perlite and sand with standard potting soil.
All plants need fertilizer, especially those in pots, but they will survive without it. They may not be as robust, but they will survive.
If you’re worried about certain plants being lost in the winter frost, take cuttings from the plant in the fall and grow them plants indoor until spring. You may lose your outdoor plant, but you’ll have something to replace it.
Propagation
Most succulents can be propagated through cuttings or leaves.
For cuttings, simply snip off a piece of the plant and set it aside in a shady place. Let it rest for a couple of days to harden off, allowing the freshly cut end to callous over. Then pop it in a pot or the ground and water. Cuttings can be left for a couple of weeks before planting.
To grow from leaves, remove the entire leaf and set aside in a shady spot. In about three weeks, roots will form on the leaf and a new plant will develop at the base.
Succulents can be rooted in water, but most will rot rather than develop roots. As they are so easy to root out of water, there’s not anything to be gained.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Some gardeners find tropical plants intimidating. Succulents in particular tend to have unusual requirements, and gardeners sometimes worry about the plants harming pets if eaten. The Agave attenuata is a tropical plant that is actually quite easy to care for in a backyard garden. Once homeowners discover how easy it is to properly care for the Agave attenuata, the plant becomes even more appealing, whether positioned in a lawn plot or placed in a container on the patio.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
Agave attenuata is one of several species of Agave that are native to Mexico. The plant is commonly known as a Fox Tail Agave. Swan’s Neck or Dragon Tree Agave, and grows to a height of approximately 3.3 to 5 feet (1 to 1.5 m). It is a succulent, so its leaves are rubbery and puff up when the plant has plenty of water. The leaves vary in color from soft green to bright blue green or even yellow and green striped. Unlike some other Agave plants, the Fox Tail Agave does not have dangerous spines on its leaves.
Fox Tail Agave is a particularly showy plant, even without blooms. It grows in a rosette shape that packs a lot of visual interest. It looks great in modern gardens, desert gardens, and around tropical plants. Since it does not have prickly spines, the plant poses little threat to animals and small children.
Planting
Gardeners can plant Fox Tail Agave directly in the ground or in a container. Pots and planters are easy to move around gardens that have changing light conditions. When planting the Agave in the ground, homeowners should choose an area that gets plenty of sunlight.
Gardeners should make a hole about the same depth as the container the Fox Tail Agave originally came in. This keeps from shocking the plant. Once it is in the ground, gardeners should pat fill dirt lightly around the plant and water it well. The same rules apply for containers or ground plots.
Watering
Fox Tail Agave is a sturdy plant that tolerates both under and overwatering well. For optimal growth, Fox Tail Agave needs a thorough watering once a week during warm weather, particularly if it receives full sunlight. A thorough dousing every other week or so via a watering can is fine for plants in partial sun or during cooler weather. Indoor Agave plants may need less frequent watering, depending on the humidity levels indoors.
Temperatures
A desert plant, Fox Tail Agave thrives in high temperatures, and it grows well at room temperature. It can even tolerate temperatures as low as 28 degrees Fahrenheit (-2 degrees Celsius), although it does not thrive when temperatures are that low for long periods of time. If the plant is in a container, home gardeners should move the plant inside during extended periods of cold.
Fertilising
During times of growth, Fox Tail Agave can withstand a small amount of balanced liquid fertilizer, but most of the time the plant does not need additional fertilizing. After several years, the soil becomes depleted of nutrients, and gardeners should refresh it. This is particularly important for potted Fox Tail Agave.
When swapping soil, gardeners should check the plant’s root ball to make sure the roots are not bound. If the plant has not received fertilizer recently, the gardener can add a small amount when repotting the plant. Otherwise, no additional fertilizer is necessary for the plant to thrive.
Propagating
Older Fox Tail Agave start to send out suckers from the bottom of the plant. This is how the Fox Tail Agave propagates itself. When these start appearing, gardeners should remove them from the plant and let them dry thoroughly before planting them in another location, such as a clay pot on a windowsill or in the garden itself. Fox Tail Agaves tend to grow suckers during spring and summer. Those who are not interested in planting suckers to create additional Agave plants can either leave the suckers in place or compost them.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Panda Plant (Kalanchoe tomentosa), also known as Pussy Ears is a hardy succulent that makes an interesting addition to the houseplants you grow indoors. Often a favorite of children, growing Panda Plants are a good specimen to locate in a child’s room as part of the decor.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
Panda Plant grows wild on the island of Madagascar. In its native environment, growing Panda Plants have a woody base and reach several feet. As an indoor plant, however, it growth is limited by the size of the container, usually reaching only 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 cm) in height and 2 feet (60 cm) around. Blooms are rare when growing Panda Plants indoors.
Further information on growing Panda Plants says the velvety appearance of the leaves is created by hairs that spring up in trichomes, deflecting light and limiting transpiration. Brownish red markings on leaf edges, along with the white-silvery hairs, are similar to the fur of a panda bear. “Tomentosa” means densely woolly or velvety.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Locate the indoor Panda Plant in medium to bright light. As with most succulents, soil should be allowed to dry between waterings. In fact, watering is a limited part of Panda Plant care. When you do water, do so completely while giving the plant the infrequent drink.
Kalanchoe tomentosa - Panda Plant
You’ll find humidity is not an issue when learning how to grow a Panda Plant successfully. The average room provides enough humidity for this easy-care, furry plant. The indoor Panda Plant can live for many years in these conditions.
Move it outside during spring and summer, if desired, but provide protection from hot afternoon sun. Fertilize during these months with a balanced houseplant food mixed at half strength as a part of Panda Plant care.
Propagating
When you’re growing Panda Plants, you’ll likely find more areas in the home that would benefit from one of these plants. Propagation of the Panda Plant is easy and an inexpensive way to get more of the plants.
Root leaves of the plant in spring or summer in a sandy potting soil or a perlite mixture. New roots develop and the plant will grow new leaves, at which time it should be transferred into a new container.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents have different needs than most other plants. Here are the most common mistakes when growing succulents and how to avoid them.
Overwatering
The biggest mistake people make with succulents is overwatering them. Waterlogged roots rot, the stem becomes squishy, and leaves fall off. On the surface, your succulent may look okay, until one day you find that your lower leaves have gone slimy and black. If any of your leaves look yellow, translucent, or slimy, you may be overwatering. Succulent roots are very sensitive, and are super susceptible to root rot, so be careful with your watering habits! Most succulents only need to be watered once every 1-2 weeks. When they’re actively growing—which for most kinds is spring and summer—drench the soil once a week. When they’re dormant—usually in fall and winter—do so once a month. It’s best to let their soil dry out completely before watering again!
Using the Wrong Container
Succulents need well draining soil! They also need well-draining containers! Containers with no drainage holes typically retain far too much water for succulents (and are also susceptible to overheating which brews bacteria), and your plants are far less likely to do well in these. So, while you may love the idea of repurposing that galvanized steel bucket as a planter, be sure to drill holes in the bottom first (or be prepared to deal with many potential issues!) You’d be best with wood, terra cotta, or hypertufa containers that can easily breathe.
Using the Wrong Soil
The first thing you need to know is that succulent roots do not get water from direct contact. Rather, they absorb the water molecules in the air. This is why having a succulent sitting in sopping wet soil is so problematic and makes the plant rot– your roots don’t suck water up as readily, and your soil can stay wet for much longer! This could lead to a whole host of problems, from plant gnats, to mold. Succulents typically don’t do well in conventional garden soil, unless you’re very rarely water. You’ll want a well draining soil. You can buy a succulent mix at a garden center, but you can always mix your own as well!
Trying to Squeeze Too Many in One Space
Succulent arrangements are gorgeous, but they’re really best as temporary decoration! While succulents can take some “squeezing” better than most plants, at a certain point, close becomes too close, and they reach a size threshold in which they can no longer compete for nutrients! If you have a jam packed succulent arrangement, and you find that some plants are withering or dying away, it maybe time for some separation.
Keeping Them in a Windowless Room
When succulents are indoors it’s often hard for them to get enough sunlight. They generally need about 6 hours a day. This can be hard to achieve from a cubicle or bathroom, so if you want to have a succulent in these locations, its best to use other methods of getting your plants enough light, such as putting them outside or in a bright window for the weekend, or investing in grow lights! Remember, these are naturally desert plants, and deal with some of the sunniest and driest environments on the planet.
Fertilizing Improperly
A common succulent faux-pas is the idea that they don’t need fertilizer! Like any other plant, they need a variety of macro and micro-nutrients to survive. While they get along just fine without it, sometimes a bit of fertilizer can be the key to having lush and green plants.
Overwatering
The biggest mistake people make with succulents is overwatering them. Waterlogged roots rot, the stem becomes squishy, and leaves fall off. On the surface, your succulent may look okay, until one day you find that your lower leaves have gone slimy and black. If any of your leaves look yellow, translucent, or slimy, you may be overwatering. Succulent roots are very sensitive, and are super susceptible to root rot, so be careful with your watering habits! Most succulents only need to be watered once every 1-2 weeks. When they’re actively growing—which for most kinds is spring and summer—drench the soil once a week. When they’re dormant—usually in fall and winter—do so once a month. It’s best to let their soil dry out completely before watering again!
Using the Wrong Container
Succulents need well draining soil! They also need well-draining containers! Containers with no drainage holes typically retain far too much water for succulents (and are also susceptible to overheating which brews bacteria), and your plants are far less likely to do well in these. So, while you may love the idea of repurposing that galvanized steel bucket as a planter, be sure to drill holes in the bottom first (or be prepared to deal with many potential issues!) You’d be best with wood, terra cotta, or hypertufa containers that can easily breathe.
Using the Wrong Soil
The first thing you need to know is that succulent roots do not get water from direct contact. Rather, they absorb the water molecules in the air. This is why having a succulent sitting in sopping wet soil is so problematic and makes the plant rot– your roots don’t suck water up as readily, and your soil can stay wet for much longer! This could lead to a whole host of problems, from plant gnats, to mold. Succulents typically don’t do well in conventional garden soil, unless you’re very rarely water. You’ll want a well draining soil. You can buy a succulent mix at a garden center, but you can always mix your own as well!
Trying to Squeeze Too Many in One Space
Succulent arrangements are gorgeous, but they’re really best as temporary decoration! While succulents can take some “squeezing” better than most plants, at a certain point, close becomes too close, and they reach a size threshold in which they can no longer compete for nutrients! If you have a jam packed succulent arrangement, and you find that some plants are withering or dying away, it maybe time for some separation.
Keeping Them in a Windowless Room
When succulents are indoors it’s often hard for them to get enough sunlight. They generally need about 6 hours a day. This can be hard to achieve from a cubicle or bathroom, so if you want to have a succulent in these locations, its best to use other methods of getting your plants enough light, such as putting them outside or in a bright window for the weekend, or investing in grow lights! Remember, these are naturally desert plants, and deal with some of the sunniest and driest environments on the planet.
Fertilizing Improperly
A common succulent faux-pas is the idea that they don’t need fertilizer! Like any other plant, they need a variety of macro and micro-nutrients to survive. While they get along just fine without it, sometimes a bit of fertilizer can be the key to having lush and green plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
True grit and beauty can be a tough combination to achieve, especially in the garden. If you want unique, colorful, and textural plants that handle the heat and won’t bust your water bill, look to the world of succulents.
Not to be confused with cacti, most of which require a true desert climate, succulents are supremely versatile, occurring naturally in a broad range of climates. High on style and substance, they are found in just about any size, shape, or color you can imagine. Once established, succulents are incredibly water-wise and require minimal care to look their best.
There is hardly a better plant for creating a dramatic focal point than the sculptural Agave. Hardy Agaves, especially those with silver-blue foliage, will steal the show in any landscape. Varieties of Agave americana and Agave ovatifolia offer up just such desirable foliage color. Agave grow large, so provide adequate space for them. They can also be planted in large containers and set into dense garden beds.
Mangaves, cousins of the Agave, are fleshy succulents that have the appearance of being a cross between Agaves and Manfredas. Their foliage is often purple or specked with burgundy spots. These large succulents make excellent specimen features in garden beds or large container specimens.
Many new species and varieties of Aloe are also available, such as Aloe polyphylla, which grows in a spiral pattern and sports spikes of orange blooms.
Dramatic and showy containers can also be created using a variety of smaller succulent plants. Because most succulents need to dry out a bit between watering and require good drainage, they are perfect for tucking into small containers that may not support thirstier plant material. Strawberry pots and other pocket planters make good homes. Graptopetalum paraguayense, also known as Ghost Plant, grows soft rosettes in shades of silver and lavender and makes a perfect container specimen. Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum spp.), which form star-shaped rosettes of foliage, are excellent in pots paired with Echeveria and Aeonium.
Succulents are the perfect garden solution for areas near concrete that suffer from reflected heat. Sedums are tough-as-nails succulents that make particularly excellent ground covers and edging plants. Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood’ has small rosettes of burgundy foliage and a creeping growth habit. Sedum spurium ‘John Creech’ makes a low-maintenance ground cover, while Sedum reflexum ‘Blue Spruce’ is perfect for growing over a retaining wall.
As an added bonus, succulents are one of the few groups of plants you can plant during this intensely hot time of year. Most thrive in sunny conditions but will also tolerate late-afternoon shade. Good drainage is key for all succulents, so amend soil with organic matter and decomposed granite, or use a loose potting mix in your containers. Be sure not to overwater your succulents, and you’ll enjoy a gorgeous and low-maintenance garden year-round.
Not to be confused with cacti, most of which require a true desert climate, succulents are supremely versatile, occurring naturally in a broad range of climates. High on style and substance, they are found in just about any size, shape, or color you can imagine. Once established, succulents are incredibly water-wise and require minimal care to look their best.
There is hardly a better plant for creating a dramatic focal point than the sculptural Agave. Hardy Agaves, especially those with silver-blue foliage, will steal the show in any landscape. Varieties of Agave americana and Agave ovatifolia offer up just such desirable foliage color. Agave grow large, so provide adequate space for them. They can also be planted in large containers and set into dense garden beds.
Mangaves, cousins of the Agave, are fleshy succulents that have the appearance of being a cross between Agaves and Manfredas. Their foliage is often purple or specked with burgundy spots. These large succulents make excellent specimen features in garden beds or large container specimens.
Many new species and varieties of Aloe are also available, such as Aloe polyphylla, which grows in a spiral pattern and sports spikes of orange blooms.
Dramatic and showy containers can also be created using a variety of smaller succulent plants. Because most succulents need to dry out a bit between watering and require good drainage, they are perfect for tucking into small containers that may not support thirstier plant material. Strawberry pots and other pocket planters make good homes. Graptopetalum paraguayense, also known as Ghost Plant, grows soft rosettes in shades of silver and lavender and makes a perfect container specimen. Hens and Chicks (Sempervivum spp.), which form star-shaped rosettes of foliage, are excellent in pots paired with Echeveria and Aeonium.
Succulents are the perfect garden solution for areas near concrete that suffer from reflected heat. Sedums are tough-as-nails succulents that make particularly excellent ground covers and edging plants. Sedum spurium ‘Dragon’s Blood’ has small rosettes of burgundy foliage and a creeping growth habit. Sedum spurium ‘John Creech’ makes a low-maintenance ground cover, while Sedum reflexum ‘Blue Spruce’ is perfect for growing over a retaining wall.
As an added bonus, succulents are one of the few groups of plants you can plant during this intensely hot time of year. Most thrive in sunny conditions but will also tolerate late-afternoon shade. Good drainage is key for all succulents, so amend soil with organic matter and decomposed granite, or use a loose potting mix in your containers. Be sure not to overwater your succulents, and you’ll enjoy a gorgeous and low-maintenance garden year-round.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Manfreda is a genus of flowering plants in the family Asparagaceae. Some authorities place Manfreda in genus Polianthes, while others group place both genera in Agave. The generic name honors 14th-century Italian writer Manfredus de Monte Imperiale.
There are 28 species of Manfreda, distributed from South-eastern and South Texas, Eastern Mexico and Guatemala. These succulent plants are small and stemless or with a short stem. The fleshy leaves form a loose rosette. Leaf edges are smooth or have very small teeth and there are no terminal spines. The relatively tall inflorescence carries fragrant tubular flowers.
The Spotted Manfreda, also called Texas Tuberose (Manfreda maculosa) is notable for having silvery-green leaves covered with purple spots and is a popular xeriscape plant in the Southwest United States.
Manfreda species contain saponins that were used as detergents and were traditionally used as remedies against snake bite. While efficacy against snakebite is doubtful, it is just about possible that the soapy content could help to inactivate the toxic enzymes in some snake venoms.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Manfreda is a tender perennial or “temperennial” succulent plant that grows best in full sun. Plant in well-drained, dry to average soil in containers just slightly wider than the width of the rosette or plant directly in the ground. Since the plant has a rather large root system, the container should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep. Manfreda is a slower grower, so it will not quickly overtake the space it is allotted in the landscape.
In summer when the plants are actively growing, they appreciate a bit of supplemental watering and half-strength fertilizer. During the winter months, the plants should be allowed to dry and should be stored in a cold room at 48°F (9° C). Plants are watered only enough to keep the foliage from shriveling.
Propagation
Manfredas are propagated by the removal of offsets and from fresh seed. Fresh seed germinate in 7- 21 days at 68 to 72 °F (19 to 22 °C).
There are 28 species of Manfreda, distributed from South-eastern and South Texas, Eastern Mexico and Guatemala. These succulent plants are small and stemless or with a short stem. The fleshy leaves form a loose rosette. Leaf edges are smooth or have very small teeth and there are no terminal spines. The relatively tall inflorescence carries fragrant tubular flowers.
The Spotted Manfreda, also called Texas Tuberose (Manfreda maculosa) is notable for having silvery-green leaves covered with purple spots and is a popular xeriscape plant in the Southwest United States.
Manfreda species contain saponins that were used as detergents and were traditionally used as remedies against snake bite. While efficacy against snakebite is doubtful, it is just about possible that the soapy content could help to inactivate the toxic enzymes in some snake venoms.
Growing Conditions and General Care
Manfreda is a tender perennial or “temperennial” succulent plant that grows best in full sun. Plant in well-drained, dry to average soil in containers just slightly wider than the width of the rosette or plant directly in the ground. Since the plant has a rather large root system, the container should be at least 12 inches (30 cm) deep. Manfreda is a slower grower, so it will not quickly overtake the space it is allotted in the landscape.
In summer when the plants are actively growing, they appreciate a bit of supplemental watering and half-strength fertilizer. During the winter months, the plants should be allowed to dry and should be stored in a cold room at 48°F (9° C). Plants are watered only enough to keep the foliage from shriveling.
Propagation
Manfredas are propagated by the removal of offsets and from fresh seed. Fresh seed germinate in 7- 21 days at 68 to 72 °F (19 to 22 °C).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants are grown primarily for the structure of their water-storing stems, leaves or roots, which give lasting interest. Flowers are a wonderful bonus, but often succulents are shy to bloom, especially if they are indoor container plants. Find out what conditions prevail in the plants’ natural habitat to get clues about what growth conditions and seasonal cycles they need. Supplying winter cold, summer heat, fertilizer or more intense light may be all that’s needed for successful flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
Temperature
Many succulents need higher temperatures in summer to set their blooming chemistry. Climate-controlled homes don’t provide the needed temperature extremes. Succulents benefit from being moved outdoors for the summer months, but the move should be gradual, exposing them to more heat and sunlight over a couple of weeks, until they are in partial sun and warm temperatures. Plants from cold-winter deserts, like interior western American deserts and high-altitude South American deserts, need winter dormancy and cold temperatures to induce spring blooms. Put such plants in cool areas for the winter months.
Fertilizer
Producing a flower is important to a plant, because seeds are needed to perpetuate the species, so they will flower if possible. However, they need plant food to provide the building blocks for flower formation. In deserts, the soil actually provides good nutrition because there’s not a lot of rain to leach plant nutrients out of the soil. Under cultivation, fertilize succulents beginning in spring as the plant begins growth. Use half-strength fertilizer once a month while the plant is growing, discontinuing feeding in late summer or early fall. Use a fertilizer higher in phosphorus, such as 10-15-10, to promote flower formation.
Water
Succulents need water to form flower buds and produce new growth. If they don’t get it, they deplete the stores of water in their tissues that they need to survive drought — they live, but do not thrive. During growth periods, water plants thoroughly until water comes out the pot’s drainage holes, but don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Most succulents undergo dormancy for part of the year, usually in either winter for cacti or summer for plants like Living Stones (Lithops), and this rest period is needed to set the stage for flowering. Keep the plant drier during dormancy. All succulents need very well-draining potting mix.
Light
Arid-land plants, even if they’re growing under a bush in nature, receive a lot of direct and indirect light that can be difficult to duplicate indoors. An eastern or southern window is a good choice for most cacti. Most succulents need sunlight for half the day, preferably morning, to produce the food needed for blooming. If growth is open and lax on leaf or stem succulents that should be compact, there’s not enough light for flowering. If globular cacti are stretching for the light, they won’t flower. There are only a few kinds of succulents — such as Gasterias, Haworthias and some Aloes — that will bloom if kept in full shade. If sufficient natural light is lacking, grow succulents under grow lights.
Photoperiod
Related to light conditions are the number of hours in the day and night as the seasons change. Photo periodicity is important in setting the biological clocks of all organisms, from humans to plants. Some succulents, like the Holiday Cacti (Schlumbergera cultivars) need long-night, short-day conditions plus cool temperatures to initiate flower buds. For many other succulents, it is the increasing day length plus warming spring temperatures that signals buds to grow. Receiving supplemental light that artificially lengthens or shortens the nights can interfere with flowering.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Frailea are very small cacti that rarely reach 2 inches (5 cm) in diameter. The plants are native Brazil. These little cacti are quite interesting in their form but their life cycle is even more surprising. There are several species of this genus available for home growers, but the plants are considered threatened in their native habitat.
Rounded, flattish mounds of solitary to occasionally divided chocolate, purple-brown or greenish brown Fraileas make interesting contrasts to other succulents. This genus is named for Manuel Fraile, who once was in charge of the cactus collection of the United States Department of Agriculture.
Growing Fraileas is not difficult and these little plants are super starter plants for the novice gardener or just for someone who travels consistently but wants to come home to a living thing.
The majority of these plants grow as solitary little flattened domes. The spines are extremely tiny and arrayed along the ribs. The body of the plant may range from chocolate to reddish green with several other color variations possible. Often, the plant will produce a fuzzy white fruit that dries to a fragile, membranous capsule filled with large seeds. This fruit is often a surprise as flowers are rare and are cleistogamous, meaning they don’t need to open to produce fruit and seed.
If you are lucky enough to observe a full bloom, the flower will be larger than the body of the plant and rich sulfur yellow. Growing Frailea is easy from seed as germination is quick and reliable.
Rounded, flattish mounds of solitary to occasionally divided chocolate, purple-brown or greenish brown Fraileas make interesting contrasts to other succulents. This genus is named for Manuel Fraile, who once was in charge of the cactus collection of the United States Department of Agriculture.
Growing Fraileas is not difficult and these little plants are super starter plants for the novice gardener or just for someone who travels consistently but wants to come home to a living thing.
The majority of these plants grow as solitary little flattened domes. The spines are extremely tiny and arrayed along the ribs. The body of the plant may range from chocolate to reddish green with several other color variations possible. Often, the plant will produce a fuzzy white fruit that dries to a fragile, membranous capsule filled with large seeds. This fruit is often a surprise as flowers are rare and are cleistogamous, meaning they don’t need to open to produce fruit and seed.
If you are lucky enough to observe a full bloom, the flower will be larger than the body of the plant and rich sulfur yellow. Growing Frailea is easy from seed as germination is quick and reliable.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Common Houseleek (Sempervivum tectorum), also known as Hens and Chicks, are low growing evergreen succulent plants that look a little like rubbery roses. They are considered alpine or rock garden plants, because of their hardiness and drought resistance. The original rosette, the “Hen” produces tiny rosette offsets that are known as the “Chicks”.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever.
Growing Conditions
Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil.
Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing.
Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5.
Growing Tips
Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets.
Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring.
Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time.
Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases
Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
The name for the genus “Sempervivum” is Latin for “live forever”. They don’t really live forever, but since they produce the ‘chicks’ or plantlets, they seem to last forever.
Growing Conditions
Light: Common Houseleeks require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil.
Water: As succulents, Common Houseleek plants are accustomed to very little water.
Temperature: The ideal temperature for Hens and Chicks is between 65 and 75 °F (18 and 24 °C). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing.
Soil: Common Houseleek as with most succulents, need excellent drainage. Poor, sandy soil would be just fine. You could work some peat into heavier soil, to lighten them and improve drainage. Soil pH should be in the neutral range, 6.6 to 7.5.
Growing Tips
Common Houseleek can be grown from seeds, seedlings or by dividing offsets.
Don’t plant your Common Houseleeks too deeply. Dig a shallow hole and spread the roots. Cover to the crown of the plant and tamp the soil gently so that the plant is firm in the ground. Water lightly, but you don’t need to water newly planted Common Houseleek every day, the way you would with non-succulents. Common Houseleeks need to let their roots dry out between waterings.
Seeds can be sprinkled on top of a soil, gravel mix and kept moderately moist until they germinate. Once they sprout, sprinkle some fine gravel around them as mulch. Seeds are usually started in pots and then transferred to the garden as seedlings. You can start your seeds in the fall and transplant in the spring.
Common Houseleeks will spread by underground roots. Each plant multiplies by at last 4, in a growing season, by producing little offset plantlets all around the perimeter of the “Hen”. These are the “Chicks”. The Chicks can be snapped off and replanted elsewhere at any time.
Once established, maintenance of Common Houseleeks is minimal. You’ll need to remove the old hens, after they flower, and divide chicks as needed. Except in extremely hot, dry situations, you won’t even need to give them supplemental water.
Pests and Diseases
Crown rot will occur in wet soils. Some varieties can get Endophyllum rust, a fungus disease. Both problems can be prevented if grown in dry conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Cacti and succulents are relatively pest-free plants, but, like any others, they occasionally fall prey to typical greenhouse pests like mealybug, scale, mites and white fly. Don’t worry. Plants and pests go hand-in-hand. You’ll constantly be bringing pests home with new plants and no matter what you do, you’ll NEVER be completely free of them. The goal is control. Thankfully there are some simple, relatively toxin-free ways to help deal with the little nasties.
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
Mealybug
Probably the most common pest of cacti and succulents is the mealybug. There are several kinds of mealybug but the greenhouse, citrus, and occasionally long-tailed versions are the ones you’ll encounter most often. They look like tiny, white sow-bugs and have the annoying habit of finding the most out-of-the-way spots on your plants. White, cottony masses are signs that they’re reproducing…these are the “nests” that their little crawlers (nearly invisible) call home.
These buggers literally sap the strength of an infested plant and, with time and exploding numbers, can cause visible (though not usually fatal) decline.
Thankfully they are among the easiest of pests to control. Lug your plant to the nearest sink or hose and give the plant a good, strong shower. Mealys can be blasted off their hosts with a forceful stream of water. Another painless way to clean a plant up is with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol (isopropyl). Simply wipe off any that you see and then rinse the plant with clear water before returning to its spot. A couple of drops of dishwashing liquid to a quart of water is another weapon in the arsenal. The soap acts as a wetter, breaking down the waxy outer coating of many soft bodied insects, including mealybugs. Biological controls like predatory ladybugs and lacewings are also effective, but take some time to get their game on.
See signs of decline in your succulents for no apparent reason? Dump them out of their pots and check the roots. There is a mealy that makes its home underground and feeds on the roots of our plants. They are the worst as they are often not noticed until the plant has suffered. Off to the sink it went and got a thorough spraying until no insects or evidence of them was left.
Mites
I hate mites. First, you don’t usually notice them until they’ve disfigured your plant. Second, they are attracted to….warmth and dry conditions–the same environment enjoyed by cacti and succulents. Third, they are tougher to control than some of the other pests. Plants that are otherwise stressed are particularly susceptible.
Mites are not really insects, but they are sucking monsters. On other plants it’s common to find fine webbing…but not always on cacti and succulents. More commonly you’ll notice brown, corky patches beginning to show up on formerly healthy plants.
Start your control by keeping a close eye on your plants. Scout for trouble. Keep them healthy and properly watered. Step two: bump your humidity up a bit and mist the plants once in a while (most will experience fog in their native haunts–it won’t harm them). If you suspect an infestation of spider mites, use the “spray them off” technique discussed under mealybug.
It only seems fair that another of their ilk, a predatory mite, is one of the biological controls. It’s a perverse little twist of Mother Nature’s—and I like it!
Scale
After mealybug, scale is probably the most commonly encountered pest of cacti and succulents. These insects are like little armored tanks that clamp themselves to a leaf’s surface and do their damage while hidden underneath a relatively impervious shell.
Not as easy to spray off, I usually use the rubbing-alcohol treatment to remove them by hand. A cotton swab or a small, stiff paintbrush will do the trick. They are very difficult to get a good handle on and it’s always best to spot an infestation early. There are predator insects available but they are most effective if you can identify the species of scale that you’re dealing with.
White Fly
White fly round out the list of important pests to be on the guard against. They are, as their name implies, small white flies. While not common on most succulents, they seem to have a taste for Euphorbias, particularly the ones that have soft leaves. (I find this unusual since Euphorbias are characterized by their poisonous sap–the white flies don’t seem to mind).
Parasitic wasps are the most enjoyable way to control these pests. This winter it took them only a few weeks to knock down a population of white fly that was threatening to get out of hand. Insecticidal soap sprays can be effective
People have been known to shake their plants and vacuum the insects out of the air. As a short term help to remove adults if may have some benefit, but I suspect that it does more for the psyche of the grower than it does for the plants!
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulents, which include the fleshy-leaved plants we often associate with that name, as well as cacti, respond to many environmental stressors by stopping growing and dropping leaves, reducing their energy needs. Heat, frost, low or high light, improper watering and chemical shock can all cause leaf drop, often quite suddenly.
Temperature Trouble
Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light
Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns
Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering
Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
Temperature Trouble
Because most succulents are adapted to hot, arid areas where prolonged periods of heat are the norm, they respond by dropping leaves when stressed by heat or drought. Although this is relatively normal, keeping succulents in the shade when temperatures soar will help prevent this. Watch them closely: if they look wilted or sunburned, move them or place a shade cloth over them. The opposite problem also occurs: succulents do not do well with freezes, which may blacken and burn their leaves. Sometimes these will fall off, but usually not until the plant grows new leaves to replace them, so resist the urge to peel off these protective dead leaves. The Stonecrop (Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’) for example, grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 11, and will tolerate a wide range of temperatures but may still drop leaves when stressed.
Low Light
Succulents need enough light, especially as they are typically adapted to areas with lots of sun year-round. They do best in brightly lit areas, and when lacking light, will turn light green or yellow and straggly, trying to grow toward the light. If the problem is not corrected, they will eventually drop leaves or die. Low light is not the only problem — succulents that are moved to a new area without acclimation, or suddenly rotated in a bright spot, may get a sunburn on the side that hasn’t seen sun for a while. Make changes slowly, and wait for plants to adapt before moving on.
Chemical Burns
Shocking the system of a succulent can also cause leaf drop. When succulents contract diseases or fungal infections, it is certainly tempting to respond immediately and forcefully, but you must be careful. When using chemicals, always read package directions thoroughly and do not reapply more often than recommended by the label. Always make sure your succulent isn’t environmentally stressed before applying chemicals.
Unwise Watering
Succulents are known for needing little water, and while too little will cause them to wilt and fail to thrive, you must be careful about over-watering them. Giving succulents too much water too often will swell their leaves and, if they do not get a chance to dry out, cause them to drop off the plant. Wait until soil is almost completely dry and the leaves look a little limp before watering, then water thoroughly, until you see trickles coming out of the bottom of the pot. Repeat the process. Always use pots with drainage holes for succulents.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月19日
Succulent plants store water in their tissue. That, by definition, is what makes it a succulent plant. Succulents use the water they store in their tissue to help them survive long, dry periods. Since cacti and other succulents as a general rule grow in dry places, they take up water through their roots very quickly and efficiently. On the other hand, they do not have the ability to quickly get rid of excess water. While this all works out fine in the wild, when csucculents are grown in cultivation, people can supply more water than the succulents needs. This is actually a common situation and the plants in cultivation look plump and happy compared to their habitat counterparts.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
But the real problems start when people don’t just give their succulent more water than it needs, but more water than it can handle. This is overwatering. When a succulent is overwatered, it will swell up more and more and often times the cactus stem will become so saturated that it splits open in one or more places. While a succulent can usually recover from this, the other result of overwatering (especially when combined with cold temperatures) is rot. Sometimes just the roots will rot off, but often times the whole plant will turn to mush.
Treatment
The first thing to do with an overwatered cactus or other succulent is stop watering it! In most cases, repotting would also be a good idea. When the plant is unpotted, you can let it stay unpotted to dry out for a week or two and then repot it. If the plant body has split in any place, the damage is permanent and there is nothing you can do but let it scar over. If the plant has started to rot, saving the plant will depend on how far the rot has set in.
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