成长记
meriunkat
2017年09月05日
It has grown bigger, it is terribly difficult to take pictures of plants that are so light colored
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
The Chilean myrtle tree is native to Chile and western Argentina. Ancient groves exist in these areas with trees that are up to 600 years old. These plants have little cold tolerance and should be grown only in United States Department of Agriculture zone 8 and above. Other regions will have to utilize a greenhouse to enjoy the plant. Among the interesting tidbits of Chilean myrtle information is its use as a medicinal and its inclusion as a bonsai species of note.
Chilean Myrtle Information
Chilean myrtle trees go by many other names. Among these are Arrayan, Palo Colorado, Temu, Collimamul (kellumamul-orange wood), Short Leaf Stopper and its scientific designation, Luma apiculata. It is a lovely evergreen tree with glossy green leaves and edible fruits. In its wild habitat, the plant is protected in large forests situated along major water bodies. Trees can reach 60 feet or more in the wild, but in the home landscape, the plants tend to be large shrubs to small trees.
Chilean myrtle is an evergreen tree with cinnamon sloughing bark that reveals a creamy orange pith. The shiny leaves are oval to elliptical, waxy and bear a faint lemon scent. Plants in cultivation reach 10 to 20 feet in height. The flowers are an inch across, white and have prominent anthers, giving the bloom a tasseled appearance. They are attractive to bees, which make a tasty honey from the nectar. The berries are deeply purple black, rounded and very sweet. Fruits are made into beverages and used in baking. The tree is also popular as a bonsai. Interestingly, the inner bark foams much like soap.
Growing Chilean Myrtle Plants
This is a very adaptive plant which does well in full to partial sun and can even thrive in shade, but flower and fruit production may be compromised. Chilean myrtles preferred soil that is acidic and well drained. Organic rich soil develops the healthiest trees. A key to Chilean myrtle care is plenty of water but they cannot support themselves in boggy soil. It makes an excellent stand-alone specimen or produces a lovely hedge. These trees can also withstand a great deal of abuse, which is why they make such excellent bonsai selections. Luma apiculata can be a difficult tree to source but many online vendors have young trees available. California has been commercially growing Chilean myrtle plants successfully since the late 1800’s.
Chilean Myrtle Care
Provided the plant is kept moist and in a high humidity area, care for Chilean myrtle is easy. Young plants benefit from fertilizer in spring during the first few years. In containers, fertilize the plant every month. A thick layer of mulch around the root zone prevents competitive weeds and grass, and slowly enhances the soil. Keep the tree well watered, especially in summer. Prune young trees to promote a healthy canopy and dense growth.
If you are growing in an area that will experience frost, container growth is preferred. Bring in plants before freezes are expected. During winter, reduce watering by half and keep the plant in a brightly lit area. Container grown plants and bonsai should be repotted every few years. Chilean myrtle has no listed pests and few disease issues.
Chilean Myrtle Information
Chilean myrtle trees go by many other names. Among these are Arrayan, Palo Colorado, Temu, Collimamul (kellumamul-orange wood), Short Leaf Stopper and its scientific designation, Luma apiculata. It is a lovely evergreen tree with glossy green leaves and edible fruits. In its wild habitat, the plant is protected in large forests situated along major water bodies. Trees can reach 60 feet or more in the wild, but in the home landscape, the plants tend to be large shrubs to small trees.
Chilean myrtle is an evergreen tree with cinnamon sloughing bark that reveals a creamy orange pith. The shiny leaves are oval to elliptical, waxy and bear a faint lemon scent. Plants in cultivation reach 10 to 20 feet in height. The flowers are an inch across, white and have prominent anthers, giving the bloom a tasseled appearance. They are attractive to bees, which make a tasty honey from the nectar. The berries are deeply purple black, rounded and very sweet. Fruits are made into beverages and used in baking. The tree is also popular as a bonsai. Interestingly, the inner bark foams much like soap.
Growing Chilean Myrtle Plants
This is a very adaptive plant which does well in full to partial sun and can even thrive in shade, but flower and fruit production may be compromised. Chilean myrtles preferred soil that is acidic and well drained. Organic rich soil develops the healthiest trees. A key to Chilean myrtle care is plenty of water but they cannot support themselves in boggy soil. It makes an excellent stand-alone specimen or produces a lovely hedge. These trees can also withstand a great deal of abuse, which is why they make such excellent bonsai selections. Luma apiculata can be a difficult tree to source but many online vendors have young trees available. California has been commercially growing Chilean myrtle plants successfully since the late 1800’s.
Chilean Myrtle Care
Provided the plant is kept moist and in a high humidity area, care for Chilean myrtle is easy. Young plants benefit from fertilizer in spring during the first few years. In containers, fertilize the plant every month. A thick layer of mulch around the root zone prevents competitive weeds and grass, and slowly enhances the soil. Keep the tree well watered, especially in summer. Prune young trees to promote a healthy canopy and dense growth.
If you are growing in an area that will experience frost, container growth is preferred. Bring in plants before freezes are expected. During winter, reduce watering by half and keep the plant in a brightly lit area. Container grown plants and bonsai should be repotted every few years. Chilean myrtle has no listed pests and few disease issues.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月03日
Native to northern climates, paper birch trees are lovely additions to rural landscapes. Their narrow canopy produces dappled shade that makes it possible to grow these trees in a sea of groundcover plants such as wintergreen and barberry, and you can even grow grass under them. Unfortunately, paper birches don’t fare well in the city where they struggle to survive in the face of pollution, heat and dry conditions. Although they love cool climates, the branches break easily on windy days, especially when weighted down with snow and ice. Despite these drawbacks, they are well worth growing for their beautiful bark that shines against a dark background.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees (Betula papyriferia), also called canoe birches, are native to moist stream banks and lakesides in Northeastern United States and Canada. They have a single trunk, but nurseries like to grow them in clumps of three and call them “clumping birches.” The lowest branches are just a few feet off the ground, and in fall the foliage turns a blazing shade of yellow. Growing paper birch trees means you’ll always have something interesting to look at in the landscape.
Paper Birch Tree Facts
Paper birch trees grow as much as 60 feet tall and 35 feet wide, adding as much as 2 feet per year in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 to 6 or 7 where winters are cold. The tree’s most striking feature is its peeling white bark, which is highlighted with streaks of pink and black. In spring, it produces hanging clusters of catkins that are very attractive when in bloom. Most specimens have bright-colored fall foliage. Paper birch trees are a larval host for luna moth caterpillars. They also attract a number of birds, including yellow bellied sap suckers, black-capped chickadees, tree sparrows and pine siskins.
Here are a few uses of paper birch in the landscape:
Grow them in groups in moist beds and borders. Their thin canopy lets you grow other plants beneath them. Use paper birches to transition gradually from woods to open ground. Although the roots are shallow, they don’t usually rise above the surface of the soil, so you can use them as lawn or roadside trees.
How to Care for a Paper Birch Tree
Paper birches transplant easily with little shock. Plant them in a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. The trees adapt to most types of soil as long as it is cool in summer. It prefers long winters and mild summers. Paper birches are susceptible to a number of insects, including the destructive bronze birch borers. If you live in an area where these insects are a problem, try planting a resistant cultivar such as ‘Snowy.’
You can also help the tree resist birch borers by fertilizing annually in spring and using organic mulch. It’s best not to prune a paper birch unless absolutely necessary because it attracts insects and the tree bleeds copious amounts of sap when cut.
What Is a Paper Birch Tree?
Paper birch trees (Betula papyriferia), also called canoe birches, are native to moist stream banks and lakesides in Northeastern United States and Canada. They have a single trunk, but nurseries like to grow them in clumps of three and call them “clumping birches.” The lowest branches are just a few feet off the ground, and in fall the foliage turns a blazing shade of yellow. Growing paper birch trees means you’ll always have something interesting to look at in the landscape.
Paper Birch Tree Facts
Paper birch trees grow as much as 60 feet tall and 35 feet wide, adding as much as 2 feet per year in USDA plant hardiness zones 2 to 6 or 7 where winters are cold. The tree’s most striking feature is its peeling white bark, which is highlighted with streaks of pink and black. In spring, it produces hanging clusters of catkins that are very attractive when in bloom. Most specimens have bright-colored fall foliage. Paper birch trees are a larval host for luna moth caterpillars. They also attract a number of birds, including yellow bellied sap suckers, black-capped chickadees, tree sparrows and pine siskins.
Here are a few uses of paper birch in the landscape:
Grow them in groups in moist beds and borders. Their thin canopy lets you grow other plants beneath them. Use paper birches to transition gradually from woods to open ground. Although the roots are shallow, they don’t usually rise above the surface of the soil, so you can use them as lawn or roadside trees.
How to Care for a Paper Birch Tree
Paper birches transplant easily with little shock. Plant them in a location with full sun and moist but well-drained soil. The trees adapt to most types of soil as long as it is cool in summer. It prefers long winters and mild summers. Paper birches are susceptible to a number of insects, including the destructive bronze birch borers. If you live in an area where these insects are a problem, try planting a resistant cultivar such as ‘Snowy.’
You can also help the tree resist birch borers by fertilizing annually in spring and using organic mulch. It’s best not to prune a paper birch unless absolutely necessary because it attracts insects and the tree bleeds copious amounts of sap when cut.
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求助
hholman11
2017年09月02日
Just bought some new plants and was wondering if anyone knew what they were specifically. They were only labeled as succulent and nothing else. Can anyone help?
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hholman11：I looked it up a bit more and you were right for both of them! Thanks!
meriunkat：The first one also looks like Aeonium Kiwi but I could be wrong, Google the names and see if they look like your plants
meriunkat：The second one looks like Portuluca Afra "Elephant Bush"
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Yellow oleander trees (Thevetia peruviana) sound as if they should be closely related to oleander, (genus Nerium) but they aren’t. Both are members of the Dogbane family, but they reside in different genera and are very different plants. Read on for yellow oleander information and tips on yellow oleander care.
Yellow Oleander Information
Yellow oleander trees are so small that many consider them large bushes. Yellow oleander information suggests that these evergreen plants rarely get over 10 feet when cultivated, although they can get to 20 feet in the wild.
The flower of yellow oleander looks like a narrow tube that flares out at the tip into five petals, twisted into a spiral shape. They are fragrant, about 2 inches long and grow in clusters. A mechanism inside the throat of the flowers helps with pollination. It coats insects coming for the sweet nectar with pollen, making sure that they will transfer pollen to the next flower. Yellow oleander trees’ thick fruit has four sides and changes colors as it matures. The fruit starts out green, then turns a lipstick red, but finally matures into a dull black. The stone inside is brown and smooth and makes nice necklaces.
Uses for Yellow Oleander
Yellow oleander trees grow in savannahs and riparian areas in their native range in Africa. They can become invasive if grown in open regions, and the trees have been listed as noxious weeds in South Africa. In other countries, the uses for yellow oleander are largely ornamental. In the United States, the tree is cultivated as a garden plant, despite its toxicity. Is yellow oleander poisonous? Yes, it is. Every part of the plant is poisonous.
Yellow Oleander Care
Many gardeners choose to grow yellow oleander in spite of its toxicity, seduced by the plant’s luxurious, tropical look and long-lasting blossoms. If you want to grow this plant, it’s nice to know that yellow oleander care is not difficult nor time consuming. Just be cautious about growing it around small children and pets. Plant yellow oleander trees in part or full sun, since they like heat. The trees do best in well-draining soil with lots of organic content, so work in compost before you plant.
You’ll need to water these plants regularly. Pruning and litter cleanup (wear gloves) will take a little of your time as well. Generally, however, these are low-maintenance plants.
Yellow Oleander Information
Yellow oleander trees are so small that many consider them large bushes. Yellow oleander information suggests that these evergreen plants rarely get over 10 feet when cultivated, although they can get to 20 feet in the wild.
The flower of yellow oleander looks like a narrow tube that flares out at the tip into five petals, twisted into a spiral shape. They are fragrant, about 2 inches long and grow in clusters. A mechanism inside the throat of the flowers helps with pollination. It coats insects coming for the sweet nectar with pollen, making sure that they will transfer pollen to the next flower. Yellow oleander trees’ thick fruit has four sides and changes colors as it matures. The fruit starts out green, then turns a lipstick red, but finally matures into a dull black. The stone inside is brown and smooth and makes nice necklaces.
Uses for Yellow Oleander
Yellow oleander trees grow in savannahs and riparian areas in their native range in Africa. They can become invasive if grown in open regions, and the trees have been listed as noxious weeds in South Africa. In other countries, the uses for yellow oleander are largely ornamental. In the United States, the tree is cultivated as a garden plant, despite its toxicity. Is yellow oleander poisonous? Yes, it is. Every part of the plant is poisonous.
Yellow Oleander Care
Many gardeners choose to grow yellow oleander in spite of its toxicity, seduced by the plant’s luxurious, tropical look and long-lasting blossoms. If you want to grow this plant, it’s nice to know that yellow oleander care is not difficult nor time consuming. Just be cautious about growing it around small children and pets. Plant yellow oleander trees in part or full sun, since they like heat. The trees do best in well-draining soil with lots of organic content, so work in compost before you plant.
You’ll need to water these plants regularly. Pruning and litter cleanup (wear gloves) will take a little of your time as well. Generally, however, these are low-maintenance plants.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Although travelers palm (Ravenala madagascariensis) displays big, fan-like leaves, the name is actually a bit of a misnomer, as travelers palm plants are actually more closely related to banana trees. This exotic plant produces small, creamy white flowers, which often appear year round. Want to learn about growing travelers palm in your garden? Find out below.
Travelers Palm Hardiness
Travelers palm is definitely a tropical plant, suitable for growing in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Travelers palm plants may survive in zone 9, but only if they are well protected in the event of occasional frost.
How to Grow a Travelers Palm
Travelers palm plants tolerate sandy and clay-based soils, but prefer moist, rich soil. Although the plant is relatively disease resistant, a well-drained planting site produces healthiest growth. Provide shade for the base of the plants after planting. Once established, a sunny spot is best, but the travelers palm does fine with a little light shade. Provide shelter from strong winds, which may tear and tatter the huge leaves. This is a good-sized plant that reaches heights of 30 to 50 feet and sometimes even more, so provide plenty of space for travelers palm. Allow a minimum of 8 to 10 feet from a house or other structure, and 12 feet is even better. If you’re planting more than one, space them at least 8 to 10 feet apart to prevent crowding.
Caring for Travelers Palms
Water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy or waterlogged. Feed travelers palm plants once in spring, summer and autumn, using a fertilizer formulated for tropical plants or palms. A good, all-purpose fertilizer is also acceptable. Prune outer leaf branches as needed, and deadhead wilted blooms if you don’t want the plant to self-seed.
Travelers Palm Hardiness
Travelers palm is definitely a tropical plant, suitable for growing in the warm climates of USDA plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. Travelers palm plants may survive in zone 9, but only if they are well protected in the event of occasional frost.
How to Grow a Travelers Palm
Travelers palm plants tolerate sandy and clay-based soils, but prefer moist, rich soil. Although the plant is relatively disease resistant, a well-drained planting site produces healthiest growth. Provide shade for the base of the plants after planting. Once established, a sunny spot is best, but the travelers palm does fine with a little light shade. Provide shelter from strong winds, which may tear and tatter the huge leaves. This is a good-sized plant that reaches heights of 30 to 50 feet and sometimes even more, so provide plenty of space for travelers palm. Allow a minimum of 8 to 10 feet from a house or other structure, and 12 feet is even better. If you’re planting more than one, space them at least 8 to 10 feet apart to prevent crowding.
Caring for Travelers Palms
Water as needed to keep the soil evenly moist, but never soggy or waterlogged. Feed travelers palm plants once in spring, summer and autumn, using a fertilizer formulated for tropical plants or palms. A good, all-purpose fertilizer is also acceptable. Prune outer leaf branches as needed, and deadhead wilted blooms if you don’t want the plant to self-seed.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Considered one of the most dangerous plants in the world, the sandbox tree isn’t suitable for home landscapes, or any landscape actually. That being said, it is an interesting plant and one that deserves understanding. Read on to learn more about this deadly, but intriguing, tree.
What Is a Sandbox Tree?
A member of the spurge family, the sandbox tree (Hura crepitans) grows 90 to 130 feet tall in its native environment. You can easily recognize the tree by its gray bark covered with cone-shaped spikes. The tree has distinctly different male and female flowers. Once fertilized, the female flowers produce the pods containing the sandbox tree’s exploding seeds. Sandbox tree fruit looks like little pumpkins, but once they dry into seed capsules, they become ticking time bombs. When fully mature, they explode with a loud bang and fling their hard, flattened seeds at speeds of up to 150 miles per hour and distances of over 60 feet. The shrapnel can seriously injure any person or animal in its path. As bad as this is, the exploding seed pods are only one of the ways that a sandbox tree can inflict harm.
Where Does the Sandbox Tree Grow?
The sandbox tree is native primarily to tropical parts of South America and the Amazonian Rainforest, although it is sometimes found in tropical parts of North America. In addition, it has been introduced into Tanzania in Eastern Africa, where it is considered invasive. The tree can only grow in frost-free areas similar to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. It needs moist, sandy-loamy soil in an area with full or partial sun.
Sandbox Tree Poison
The fruit of the sandbox tree is poisonous, causing vomiting, diarrhea and cramps if ingested. The tree sap is said to cause an angry red rash, and it can blind you if it gets in your eyes. It has been used to make poison darts. Although very poisonous, parts of the tree have been used for medicinal purposes: Oil extracted from the seeds acts as a purgative. The leaves are said to treat eczema. When properly prepared, extracts are said to treat rheumatism and intestinal worms. Please don’t try any of these treatments at home. In order to be safe and effective, they must be expertly prepared and applied by a healthcare professional.
Additional Sandbox Tree Facts
Central and South American natives use dried sections of seed pods, seeds and tree spikes to make jewelry. The sections of seed pod are comma-shaped and ideal for carving little dolphins and porpoises. The tree gets its name from little bowls made from the fruit that were once used to hold fine, dry sand. The sand was used for blotting ink before the time of blotting paper. Other names include monkey’s dinner bell, monkey’s pistol, and possumwood.
You should never plant a sandbox tree. It is too dangerous to have around people or animals, and when planted in isolated areas it is likely to spread. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. It is not intended for treatments or planting of any kind. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
What Is a Sandbox Tree?
A member of the spurge family, the sandbox tree (Hura crepitans) grows 90 to 130 feet tall in its native environment. You can easily recognize the tree by its gray bark covered with cone-shaped spikes. The tree has distinctly different male and female flowers. Once fertilized, the female flowers produce the pods containing the sandbox tree’s exploding seeds. Sandbox tree fruit looks like little pumpkins, but once they dry into seed capsules, they become ticking time bombs. When fully mature, they explode with a loud bang and fling their hard, flattened seeds at speeds of up to 150 miles per hour and distances of over 60 feet. The shrapnel can seriously injure any person or animal in its path. As bad as this is, the exploding seed pods are only one of the ways that a sandbox tree can inflict harm.
Where Does the Sandbox Tree Grow?
The sandbox tree is native primarily to tropical parts of South America and the Amazonian Rainforest, although it is sometimes found in tropical parts of North America. In addition, it has been introduced into Tanzania in Eastern Africa, where it is considered invasive. The tree can only grow in frost-free areas similar to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 and 11. It needs moist, sandy-loamy soil in an area with full or partial sun.
Sandbox Tree Poison
The fruit of the sandbox tree is poisonous, causing vomiting, diarrhea and cramps if ingested. The tree sap is said to cause an angry red rash, and it can blind you if it gets in your eyes. It has been used to make poison darts. Although very poisonous, parts of the tree have been used for medicinal purposes: Oil extracted from the seeds acts as a purgative. The leaves are said to treat eczema. When properly prepared, extracts are said to treat rheumatism and intestinal worms. Please don’t try any of these treatments at home. In order to be safe and effective, they must be expertly prepared and applied by a healthcare professional.
Additional Sandbox Tree Facts
Central and South American natives use dried sections of seed pods, seeds and tree spikes to make jewelry. The sections of seed pod are comma-shaped and ideal for carving little dolphins and porpoises. The tree gets its name from little bowls made from the fruit that were once used to hold fine, dry sand. The sand was used for blotting ink before the time of blotting paper. Other names include monkey’s dinner bell, monkey’s pistol, and possumwood.
You should never plant a sandbox tree. It is too dangerous to have around people or animals, and when planted in isolated areas it is likely to spread. Disclaimer: The contents of this article is for educational and gardening purposes only. It is not intended for treatments or planting of any kind. Before using ANY herb or plant for medicinal purposes, please consult a physician or a medical herbalist for advice.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Plum leaf sand cherry, also referred to as purple leaf sand cherry plants, is a medium sized ornamental shrub or small tree that when mature reaches a height of approximately 8 feet tall by 8 feet wide. This easy care plant makes a great addition to the landscape.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
About Plum Leaf Sand Cherry
Purple leaf sand cherry (Prunus x cistena) is a member of the Rose family. Prunus is Latin for ‘plum’ while cistena is the Sioux word for ‘baby’ in reference to its smallish size. The “x” is indicative of the shrub’s hybridism.
This Prunus hybrid is useful as an ornamental specimen due to its beautiful red, maroon, or purple foliage. The shrub grows at a moderate rate and is suitable in USDA zones 2-8. The parent plants of sandcherry bush hail from Western Asia (Prunus cerasifera) and the Northeastern United States (Prunus pumila).
This purplish-red leafed plant has an oval growth habit gradually maturing into an arched form and opening out from the center of the shrub. The stunning 2-inch long, serrated foliage emerges crimson-purple and remains throughout the summer, gradually changing to a green-bronze hue in the fall. Around early spring, the plant’s pink buds open into whitish-pink flowers – the same time as the red foliage. The innocuous blooms become small black-purple fruit barely noticeable without contrast to the purple foliage in July. The multiple gray-brown trunks are prone to trunk fissuring and cankers, which ooze sap.
How to Grow a Purple Leaf Sand Cherry
This specimen is urban tolerant and establishes rapidly to lend a brilliant pop of color to the landscape. So how do you grow a purple leaf sand cherry? Sand cherry is readily available through the local nursery and/or propagated via rooted stem cuttings. Sand cherry is sensitive to being transplanted in the autumn, so extra care should be taken in amending the soil, fertilizing, mulching heavily and watering thoroughly. Ideally, you should plant the purple leaf sand cherry in full to partial sun exposure in moist, well-draining soil. However, the sand cherry bush is adaptable to lesser soils, drought, heat and over aggressive pruning.
Sand Cherry Plant Care
Because, the sand cherry is a member of the Rose family, it is susceptible to several diseases, such as trunk canker, and pests, like borers and Japanese beetle assaults in mid-summer. It also has a short lifespan at between 10 to 15 years primarily due to assault by pests or diseases. Other than these issues, the sand cherry plant care is relatively fuss free and is tolerant of a variety of conditions – hardy in cold winters and hot summers. Prune the sand cherry bush to remove heavy branching that will weigh the plant down. It can even be pruned into a formal hedge or used in borders, at entranceways or in group plantings.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Winter’s icy winds and heavy snows are subsiding and the kiss of summer sun is on the horizon. Now is the time to take stock of the damage to your plants. Fraying palm tips are common sights after storms. They may also be caused by mechanical damage, desiccation, disease and even nutrient deficiency or excesses. Identify the cause and learn what to do about your palm tree shedding and fraying.
Palm Tree Shedding and Fraying Foliage
Fraying or shedding palm fronds occur naturally or as the result of pest damage or disease. They are unsightly but usually don’t affect the plant’s health unless all the foliage is heavily tattered, which can affect photosynthesis. This reduces the plant’s ability to collect solar energy to turn into important carbohydrates. Most damage from wind, ice and snow is limited to the most exposed leaves and can simply be cut out after all danger of frost has passed. Other reasons for the damage may require a more thorough solution.
Natural Fraying and Shedding of Palms
Palm trees regularly grow new leaves and shed the old ones. This palm tree shedding is part of the tree’s natural growth and is not cause for concern. Some palms do not self clean, so you can prune out the dead leaves. Palm leaf shedding starts with fraying foliage, which eventually leaves the entire frond and stem brown and dead. Frayed palm leaves may also be caused from ice damage. Although it mars the appearance of the lovely foliage, it is not necessary to trim the ends unless it really offends you. Fraying or shedding palm fronds may be yellow, black or brown at just the ends or on the entire leaf and stem. This distinction can help you diagnose the cause.
Site Conditions for Damaged Palm Fronds
Wind and icy weather causes tip damage, which is usually brown from ice and yellow to brown from wind. Dryness is also a factor. Palm trees are often native to warm climes but they still need additional water to prevent the foliage from drying out when the area is extremely arid. The tips will start to dry and discolor and eventually the entire frond will turn brown. Yellow fronds indicate that the plant is receiving too much water. Soil acidity is another factor in fraying palm tips. Clues that the soil is too salty or alkaline will appear in the form of blackened fraying palm tips. Add a little gypsum or sulfur to combat this issue.
Bugs and Other Pests Causing Frayed Palm Leaves
Scale, whiteflies, and aphids are frequent eaters at the palm tree buffet. Their feeding habits suck vital fluids from the plant, causing reduced vigor and discolored leaves. Rodents nibble at the ends of the new growth producing frayed palm leaves. Gophers and rabbits will also add their feed damage, which is unfortunate for the tree’s health when they eat off all the baby leaves. This inhibits regular healthy growth, so it is important to get a handle on any furry pests in the area.
Diseases Causing Palm Leaf Damage
Fungal diseases occur when conditions are moist and warm. Avoid overhead watering which can increase the spore growth and reduce leaf health. Diseases that attack palms may include false smut. It is also called Graphiola leaf spot and has an appearance similar to the normal smut or speckled discoloration found on many palm species when the fronds are young. In this case, the false smut starts out as warty black spots on fronds and can progress to killing the entire leaf and petiole. Copper fungicides and the removal of infected leaves will prevent the spread of the disease and further palm leaves shedding from damage.
Palm Tree Shedding and Fraying Foliage
Fraying or shedding palm fronds occur naturally or as the result of pest damage or disease. They are unsightly but usually don’t affect the plant’s health unless all the foliage is heavily tattered, which can affect photosynthesis. This reduces the plant’s ability to collect solar energy to turn into important carbohydrates. Most damage from wind, ice and snow is limited to the most exposed leaves and can simply be cut out after all danger of frost has passed. Other reasons for the damage may require a more thorough solution.
Natural Fraying and Shedding of Palms
Palm trees regularly grow new leaves and shed the old ones. This palm tree shedding is part of the tree’s natural growth and is not cause for concern. Some palms do not self clean, so you can prune out the dead leaves. Palm leaf shedding starts with fraying foliage, which eventually leaves the entire frond and stem brown and dead. Frayed palm leaves may also be caused from ice damage. Although it mars the appearance of the lovely foliage, it is not necessary to trim the ends unless it really offends you. Fraying or shedding palm fronds may be yellow, black or brown at just the ends or on the entire leaf and stem. This distinction can help you diagnose the cause.
Site Conditions for Damaged Palm Fronds
Wind and icy weather causes tip damage, which is usually brown from ice and yellow to brown from wind. Dryness is also a factor. Palm trees are often native to warm climes but they still need additional water to prevent the foliage from drying out when the area is extremely arid. The tips will start to dry and discolor and eventually the entire frond will turn brown. Yellow fronds indicate that the plant is receiving too much water. Soil acidity is another factor in fraying palm tips. Clues that the soil is too salty or alkaline will appear in the form of blackened fraying palm tips. Add a little gypsum or sulfur to combat this issue.
Bugs and Other Pests Causing Frayed Palm Leaves
Scale, whiteflies, and aphids are frequent eaters at the palm tree buffet. Their feeding habits suck vital fluids from the plant, causing reduced vigor and discolored leaves. Rodents nibble at the ends of the new growth producing frayed palm leaves. Gophers and rabbits will also add their feed damage, which is unfortunate for the tree’s health when they eat off all the baby leaves. This inhibits regular healthy growth, so it is important to get a handle on any furry pests in the area.
Diseases Causing Palm Leaf Damage
Fungal diseases occur when conditions are moist and warm. Avoid overhead watering which can increase the spore growth and reduce leaf health. Diseases that attack palms may include false smut. It is also called Graphiola leaf spot and has an appearance similar to the normal smut or speckled discoloration found on many palm species when the fronds are young. In this case, the false smut starts out as warty black spots on fronds and can progress to killing the entire leaf and petiole. Copper fungicides and the removal of infected leaves will prevent the spread of the disease and further palm leaves shedding from damage.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
If you’re looking for sun loving palm trees, you’re in luck because the selection is huge and there is no shortage of full sun palm trees, including those well suited for containers. Palms are versatile plants and many varieties prefer filtered light, while a few even tolerate shade. However, potted palms for full sun are easy to find for nearly every environment under the sun. If you have a sunny spot, you can even try growing palm trees in container. Be sure to check the cold tolerance because palm tree hardiness varies widely.
Growing Palm Trees in Containers
Here are some of the more popular palm trees for pots in sun:
Adonidia (Adonidia merrillii) – Also known as Manila palm or Christmas palm, Adonidia is one of the most popular potted palms for full sun. Adonidia is available in a double variety, which reaches about 15 feet, and a triple variety, which tops out at 15 to 25 feet. Both do well in large containers. It is a warm weather palm suitable for growing where temps don’t fall below 32 degrees F. (0 C.). Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis) – Also known as fountain palm, Chinese fan palm is a slow-growing palm with a graceful, weeping appearance. At a mature height of about 25 feet, Chinese fan palm works well in large pots. This is a hardier palm that tolerates temps down to about 15 degrees F. (-9 C.).
Bismarck Palm (Bismarcka nobilis) – This highly sought after, warm weather palm thrives in heat and full sun, but won’t tolerate temperatures below about 28 F. (-2 C.). Although Bismarck palm grows to heights of 10 to 30 feet, growth is slower and more manageable in a container. Silver Saw Palmetto (Acoelorrhape wrightii) – Also known as Everglades palm or Paurotis Palm, Silver saw palmetto is a medium sized, full sun palm tree that prefers plenty of moisture. It is a great container plant and will be happy in a big pot for several years. Silver saw palmetto is hardy to 20 degrees F. (-6 C.).
Pindo Palm (Butia capitatia) – Pindo palm is a bushy palm that can eventually reach heights of 20 feet. This popular tree thrives in full sun or partial shade, and when fully mature, can tolerate temps as chilly as 5 to 10 degrees F. (-10 to -12 C.).
Growing Palm Trees in Containers
Here are some of the more popular palm trees for pots in sun:
Adonidia (Adonidia merrillii) – Also known as Manila palm or Christmas palm, Adonidia is one of the most popular potted palms for full sun. Adonidia is available in a double variety, which reaches about 15 feet, and a triple variety, which tops out at 15 to 25 feet. Both do well in large containers. It is a warm weather palm suitable for growing where temps don’t fall below 32 degrees F. (0 C.). Chinese Fan Palm (Livistona chinensis) – Also known as fountain palm, Chinese fan palm is a slow-growing palm with a graceful, weeping appearance. At a mature height of about 25 feet, Chinese fan palm works well in large pots. This is a hardier palm that tolerates temps down to about 15 degrees F. (-9 C.).
Bismarck Palm (Bismarcka nobilis) – This highly sought after, warm weather palm thrives in heat and full sun, but won’t tolerate temperatures below about 28 F. (-2 C.). Although Bismarck palm grows to heights of 10 to 30 feet, growth is slower and more manageable in a container. Silver Saw Palmetto (Acoelorrhape wrightii) – Also known as Everglades palm or Paurotis Palm, Silver saw palmetto is a medium sized, full sun palm tree that prefers plenty of moisture. It is a great container plant and will be happy in a big pot for several years. Silver saw palmetto is hardy to 20 degrees F. (-6 C.).
Pindo Palm (Butia capitatia) – Pindo palm is a bushy palm that can eventually reach heights of 20 feet. This popular tree thrives in full sun or partial shade, and when fully mature, can tolerate temps as chilly as 5 to 10 degrees F. (-10 to -12 C.).
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Cutting back a palm tree will not make it grow faster. This myth has caused gardeners to do extensive palm tree pruning that doesn’t help and can hurt the tree. Pruning palm plants, like any plant pruning, must be undertaken carefully. If you want to know how and when to prune a palm tree to make it stronger and healthier, read on.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
Trimming a Palm Tree
Some experts recommend avoiding all palm tree pruning, but most suggest you avoid cutting too much or too often. When should you think about pruning palm plants?
Think about cutting back a palm tree if you notice dead or dying fronds. Removing these fronds by pruning palm plants not only prevents breakage damage, it also eliminates nesting places for rats, scorpions and other pests. Another good reason to start trimming a palm tree is when it has become a fire hazard or visual hazard in your yard. If it blocks the views from your driveway or sidewalk, you’ll have to start palm tree pruning.
How and When to Prune a Palm Tree
Experts recommend that you wait until spring to prune your palm tree. Those dead fronds may be somewhat unattractive, but they will help protect the palm from summer’s heat and winter’s cold. Sterilize and sharpen your pruning tools before you begin. Generally, you’ll need pruners, garden knives and pruning saws when you are trimming a palm tree. Wear safety glasses and protective gloves, as well as heavy pants and a shirt with long sleeves. Remove any hanging, dead or unhealthy fronds. All dry, wilted or diseased fronds should be removed. On the other hand, when you are pruning palm plants, don’t think you need to prune green, healthy fronds. There is no biological reason to do so and it can stress the tree. Be sure not to remove green fronds growing horizontally or pointing up.
What to Avoid When Cutting Back a Palm Tree
When cutting back a palm tree, don’t remove most of the fronds. Some gardeners make the mistake of doing this every year, and the tree becomes weak and unhealthy. In fact, leave as many green fronds as you possibly can on the palm. Palms need many green fronds to produce a steady food supply so that the plant can grow. A palm tree cannot stay healthy and build reserves without a considerable number of green fronds.
And resist the urge to start pruning palm plants for cosmetic reasons. Pruning them into pineapple shapes or skinning their trunks weaken the trees.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
It’s a beautiful thing when a landscape comes together, even if it takes many years for your plants to mature into your dream garden. Sadly, many problems can interfere with gardening goals, including oak wilt disease, a serious fungal disease of oak trees. In some areas, oak wilt is becoming endemic, affecting both young and mature oak trees. Read on to learn about this important disease of oaks.
What is Oak Wilt?
Oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees, caused by the fungal pathogen Ceratocystis fagacearum, which is believed to be native. It can be spread by boring beetles or through root-to-root contact between trees. The fungus grows in the transport tissues of infected trees, making it highly communicable between trees that are sharing connections in their root systems. Red and black oaks are considered highly susceptible to oak wilt, and may die completely within four months of initial infection. White oaks are more tolerant, often displaying only vague symptoms of oak wilt disease, if they show any at all. These oaks also eventually succumb to oak wilt, but may linger up to seven years.
How to Diagnose Oak Wilt
Oak wilt disease can be difficult to diagnose without professional help because the symptoms are similar to those found in other diseases, such as anthracnose, boring beetles, lightening damage and a myriad of environmental stressors. If your tree is suddenly showing yellowing or browning of the leaves of entire branches and is shedding leaves with significant areas of green remaining, it’s a good idea to cut a wilted branch or two across the grain. Dark circles in the otherwise lighter inner tissues are a good indicator that you need help, and fast.
Oak wilt treatment and prevention is serious business, requiring the use of heavy equipment to break your tree’s connection to any other oaks within 50 feet. Fungicidal injections of propiconazole have shown some promise in uninfected trees in high risk areas, but this treatment will do little for trees with oak wilt fungus in their root systems.
Minimize the risk to your tree from beetle-spread oak wilt spores by pruning only during the winter and painting all wounds with a latex paint as soon as they happen. Bark beetles often find damaged trees within the first three days, attracted by the scent of fresh sap – your timing is vital. Oak wilt is bad enough, but the addition of bark beetles may create a situation that’s hopeless for your tree.
What is Oak Wilt?
Oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees, caused by the fungal pathogen Ceratocystis fagacearum, which is believed to be native. It can be spread by boring beetles or through root-to-root contact between trees. The fungus grows in the transport tissues of infected trees, making it highly communicable between trees that are sharing connections in their root systems. Red and black oaks are considered highly susceptible to oak wilt, and may die completely within four months of initial infection. White oaks are more tolerant, often displaying only vague symptoms of oak wilt disease, if they show any at all. These oaks also eventually succumb to oak wilt, but may linger up to seven years.
How to Diagnose Oak Wilt
Oak wilt disease can be difficult to diagnose without professional help because the symptoms are similar to those found in other diseases, such as anthracnose, boring beetles, lightening damage and a myriad of environmental stressors. If your tree is suddenly showing yellowing or browning of the leaves of entire branches and is shedding leaves with significant areas of green remaining, it’s a good idea to cut a wilted branch or two across the grain. Dark circles in the otherwise lighter inner tissues are a good indicator that you need help, and fast.
Oak wilt treatment and prevention is serious business, requiring the use of heavy equipment to break your tree’s connection to any other oaks within 50 feet. Fungicidal injections of propiconazole have shown some promise in uninfected trees in high risk areas, but this treatment will do little for trees with oak wilt fungus in their root systems.
Minimize the risk to your tree from beetle-spread oak wilt spores by pruning only during the winter and painting all wounds with a latex paint as soon as they happen. Bark beetles often find damaged trees within the first three days, attracted by the scent of fresh sap – your timing is vital. Oak wilt is bad enough, but the addition of bark beetles may create a situation that’s hopeless for your tree.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月02日
Water oaks are native to North America and found across the American South. These medium sized trees are ornamental shade trees and have an ease of care that makes them perfect in the landscape. Try growing water oak trees as street plants or primary shade trees, but be aware that these plants are short lived and can be assumed to survive 30 to 50 years. Read the article below for more water oak information.
Water Oak Information
Quercus nigra is a tolerant plant that can grow in partial shade or sun to full sun. These elegant trees are deciduous to semi-evergreen and an important part of ecosystems from New Jersey to Florida and west to Texas. Water oaks grow at a fantastic rate of up to 24 inches per year. Caring for a water oak is easy, but it is a weak wooded tree prone to many diseases and insect pests.
Water oaks produce copious quantities of acorns, which are a favorite food of squirrels, raccoons, turkeys, pigs, ducks, quail and deer. Deer also browse young stems and twigs in winter. The trees tend to develop hollow stems, which are habitat for a host of insects and animals. In the wild, it is found in lowlands, flood plains and near rivers and streams. It has the capacity to thrive in compact or loose soil, provided there is adequate moisture. Water oaks may be short lived but their rapid growth makes them an excellent shade tree for decades. However, special water oak tree care when young is essential to produce a strong scaffold. Both pruning and staking may be necessary to help the tree develop a sturdy skeleton.
Growing Water Oak Trees
Water oaks are so adaptable they are often used as residential, reclamation or even drought zone trees. They may be planted in areas with pollution and poor air quality and the tree still thrives. The trees are reliably hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 6 to 9. Water oaks get 50 to 80 feet tall with a nice cone shaped crown. Bark ages to brownish black and thickly scaled. Male flowers are insignificant but female catkins appear in spring and become wide ½ inch long acorns. The leaves are oblong, spatulate and deeply tri-lobed or entire. Foliage may grow 2 to 4 inches long. These trees are extremely adaptable and, once established, caring for a water oak is reduced to handling any pest or disease issues and providing supplemental water during extremely dry periods.
Water Oak Tree Care
Water oaks must be trained when young to prevent the crotch from splitting due to poor collar formation and the weight of the side limbs. Young trees should be trained to a central trunk for best plant health. The rapid growth of the plant contributes to its weak wood, which is often hollow by its 40th year. Provide young trees with plenty of water to ensure good cell development and thick wood. Oaksare host to a number of pest and disease issues. Caterpillars, scale, galls, and borers are the insects of most concern.
Oak wilt is the most serious disease but many fungal issues are often present. These might include powdery mildew, canker, leaf blight, anthracnose, and fungal leaf spot. A common deficiency in iron causes chlorosisand yellowing of the leaves. Most issues aren’t serious and can be combated by good cultural care.
Water Oak Information
Quercus nigra is a tolerant plant that can grow in partial shade or sun to full sun. These elegant trees are deciduous to semi-evergreen and an important part of ecosystems from New Jersey to Florida and west to Texas. Water oaks grow at a fantastic rate of up to 24 inches per year. Caring for a water oak is easy, but it is a weak wooded tree prone to many diseases and insect pests.
Water oaks produce copious quantities of acorns, which are a favorite food of squirrels, raccoons, turkeys, pigs, ducks, quail and deer. Deer also browse young stems and twigs in winter. The trees tend to develop hollow stems, which are habitat for a host of insects and animals. In the wild, it is found in lowlands, flood plains and near rivers and streams. It has the capacity to thrive in compact or loose soil, provided there is adequate moisture. Water oaks may be short lived but their rapid growth makes them an excellent shade tree for decades. However, special water oak tree care when young is essential to produce a strong scaffold. Both pruning and staking may be necessary to help the tree develop a sturdy skeleton.
Growing Water Oak Trees
Water oaks are so adaptable they are often used as residential, reclamation or even drought zone trees. They may be planted in areas with pollution and poor air quality and the tree still thrives. The trees are reliably hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 6 to 9. Water oaks get 50 to 80 feet tall with a nice cone shaped crown. Bark ages to brownish black and thickly scaled. Male flowers are insignificant but female catkins appear in spring and become wide ½ inch long acorns. The leaves are oblong, spatulate and deeply tri-lobed or entire. Foliage may grow 2 to 4 inches long. These trees are extremely adaptable and, once established, caring for a water oak is reduced to handling any pest or disease issues and providing supplemental water during extremely dry periods.
Water Oak Tree Care
Water oaks must be trained when young to prevent the crotch from splitting due to poor collar formation and the weight of the side limbs. Young trees should be trained to a central trunk for best plant health. The rapid growth of the plant contributes to its weak wood, which is often hollow by its 40th year. Provide young trees with plenty of water to ensure good cell development and thick wood. Oaksare host to a number of pest and disease issues. Caterpillars, scale, galls, and borers are the insects of most concern.
Oak wilt is the most serious disease but many fungal issues are often present. These might include powdery mildew, canker, leaf blight, anthracnose, and fungal leaf spot. A common deficiency in iron causes chlorosisand yellowing of the leaves. Most issues aren’t serious and can be combated by good cultural care.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Norway maple trees (Acer platinoides) are wonderful shade trees in the garden. However, they produce many seeds and propagate so easily that they readily escape cultivation. In the wild, Norway maple shades out native plants. Controlling Norway maples is much more difficult than growing them. For information about Norway maple control, read on.
Norway Maple Weed Trees
Norway maples are tall, attractive trees that taller than 65 feet. They have dense, rounded canopies that offer deep shade beneath. The trunk of the Norway maple is mottled gray and smooth. The color and texture of the bark contrasts with the dark-green, deeply lobed leaves that grow to six inches long and five inches wide. Both the leaves and the twigs “bleed” a milky sap when cut or broken.
The trees produce upright clusters of yellowish green flowers that bloom in May. The flowers give way to winged fruit called samaras. These samara are packed with seeds, and the wind blows them far and wide, allowing the seeds to spread. They germinate promptly, even in full shade. This makes controlling Norway maple difficult.
These maples are called “Norway maple weed trees” because they spread so rapidly. Given the vast numbers of seeds produced by the tree and the ease with which they grow, Norway maple weed trees in your backyard spread quickly to nearby forests and fields. Though not native to this country, Norway maple trees are currently found in half the states, and they are considered invasive in most of them.
How to Manage a Norway Maple
Experts addressing the question of how to manage a Norway maple recommend against planting the tree in new developments. Controlling Norway maple populations is a real challenge. If the only new trees are seedlings and saplings, Norway maple control can be effected by weeding these out by hand. A weed wrench pulls Norway maples out of the ground with most of their roots intact. If you want to know how to manage a Norway maple sapling, use pruning loppers to fell the young tree. Then apply an herbicide to the exposed stump.
In an area where the trees have already spread into the wild, one method of Norway maple control is pruning out seed-bearing branches each year. This is a good solution for an area under long-term resource management. Pruning stops the tree’s spread without leaving immediate holes in the forest structure. Removing trees is another option. It’s a better option where the natural resource management is short term rather than long term. Girdling big trees by cutting deeply into the bark around the trunk will effectively kill them. Once the trees are removed, it is critical to act quickly to transplant native trees into the spaces the Norway maples used to occupy.
Perhaps the best way to do Norway maple control is opting to plant a different type of tree. Native trees like red maple and sweetgum are good alternatives.
Norway Maple Weed Trees
Norway maples are tall, attractive trees that taller than 65 feet. They have dense, rounded canopies that offer deep shade beneath. The trunk of the Norway maple is mottled gray and smooth. The color and texture of the bark contrasts with the dark-green, deeply lobed leaves that grow to six inches long and five inches wide. Both the leaves and the twigs “bleed” a milky sap when cut or broken.
The trees produce upright clusters of yellowish green flowers that bloom in May. The flowers give way to winged fruit called samaras. These samara are packed with seeds, and the wind blows them far and wide, allowing the seeds to spread. They germinate promptly, even in full shade. This makes controlling Norway maple difficult.
These maples are called “Norway maple weed trees” because they spread so rapidly. Given the vast numbers of seeds produced by the tree and the ease with which they grow, Norway maple weed trees in your backyard spread quickly to nearby forests and fields. Though not native to this country, Norway maple trees are currently found in half the states, and they are considered invasive in most of them.
How to Manage a Norway Maple
Experts addressing the question of how to manage a Norway maple recommend against planting the tree in new developments. Controlling Norway maple populations is a real challenge. If the only new trees are seedlings and saplings, Norway maple control can be effected by weeding these out by hand. A weed wrench pulls Norway maples out of the ground with most of their roots intact. If you want to know how to manage a Norway maple sapling, use pruning loppers to fell the young tree. Then apply an herbicide to the exposed stump.
In an area where the trees have already spread into the wild, one method of Norway maple control is pruning out seed-bearing branches each year. This is a good solution for an area under long-term resource management. Pruning stops the tree’s spread without leaving immediate holes in the forest structure. Removing trees is another option. It’s a better option where the natural resource management is short term rather than long term. Girdling big trees by cutting deeply into the bark around the trunk will effectively kill them. Once the trees are removed, it is critical to act quickly to transplant native trees into the spaces the Norway maples used to occupy.
Perhaps the best way to do Norway maple control is opting to plant a different type of tree. Native trees like red maple and sweetgum are good alternatives.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月31日
Elm yellows is a disease that attacks and kills native elms. Elm yellows disease in plants results from Candidatus Phyloplaasma ulmi, a bacteria without walls that is called a phyoplasma. The disease is systemic and lethal. Read on for information about the symptoms of elm yellow disease and whether there is any effective elm yellows treatment.
Elm Yellows Disease in Plants
The hosts of elm yellows phytoplasma in the United States are limited to elm trees (Ulmus spp.) and the insects that transport the bacteria. White-banded elm leafhoppers transport the disease, but other insects that feed on the inner elm bark – called phloem – may also play a similar role. Native elms in this country have not developed a resistance to the elm yellows phytoplasma. It threatens elm species in the eastern half of the United States, often killing trees within two years after the initial symptoms appear. Some species of elm in Europe and Asia are either tolerant or resistant.
Symptoms of Elm Yellow Disease
Elm yellows phytoplasma attack trees systematically. The entire crown develops symptoms, usually beginning with the oldest leaves. You can see symptoms of elm yellow disease in leaves during the summer, mid-July through September. Look for leaves that turn yellow, wilt and drop before they should. The leaf symptoms of elm yellow disease are not very different from problems caused by too little water or nutrient deficiencies. However, if you look at the inner bark, you will see elm phloem necrosis even before the leaves yellow.
What does elm phloem necrosis look like? The inner bark turns a darker color. It is usually almost white, but with elm phloem necrosis, it turns a deep honey color. Dark flecks may also appear in it. Another one of the typical symptoms of elm yellow disease is the smell. When moist inner bark is exposed (due to elm phloem necrosis), you will notice an odor of wintergreen oil.
Elm Yellows Treatment
Unfortunately, no effective elm yellows treatment has yet been developed. If you have an elm that is suffering from elm yellows disease in plants, remove the tree immediately to prevent the elm yellows phytoplasma from spreading to other elms in the area. If you are just planting elms, select disease resistant varieties from Europe. They may suffer from the disease but it will not kill them.
Elm Yellows Disease in Plants
The hosts of elm yellows phytoplasma in the United States are limited to elm trees (Ulmus spp.) and the insects that transport the bacteria. White-banded elm leafhoppers transport the disease, but other insects that feed on the inner elm bark – called phloem – may also play a similar role. Native elms in this country have not developed a resistance to the elm yellows phytoplasma. It threatens elm species in the eastern half of the United States, often killing trees within two years after the initial symptoms appear. Some species of elm in Europe and Asia are either tolerant or resistant.
Symptoms of Elm Yellow Disease
Elm yellows phytoplasma attack trees systematically. The entire crown develops symptoms, usually beginning with the oldest leaves. You can see symptoms of elm yellow disease in leaves during the summer, mid-July through September. Look for leaves that turn yellow, wilt and drop before they should. The leaf symptoms of elm yellow disease are not very different from problems caused by too little water or nutrient deficiencies. However, if you look at the inner bark, you will see elm phloem necrosis even before the leaves yellow.
What does elm phloem necrosis look like? The inner bark turns a darker color. It is usually almost white, but with elm phloem necrosis, it turns a deep honey color. Dark flecks may also appear in it. Another one of the typical symptoms of elm yellow disease is the smell. When moist inner bark is exposed (due to elm phloem necrosis), you will notice an odor of wintergreen oil.
Elm Yellows Treatment
Unfortunately, no effective elm yellows treatment has yet been developed. If you have an elm that is suffering from elm yellows disease in plants, remove the tree immediately to prevent the elm yellows phytoplasma from spreading to other elms in the area. If you are just planting elms, select disease resistant varieties from Europe. They may suffer from the disease but it will not kill them.
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