文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Not only does garlic keep the vampires at bay but it also makes everything taste better. Fresh garlic from potted garlic plants, keeps the nearby bulbs crisper and more pungent than any from the grocery. Growing garlic in containers takes some planning and the right type of container. Read on for some tips on how to grow garlic in a container and capture the head bite of fresh bulbs in your home recipes.
Container Gardening for Garlic
Garlic is in the Allium family, which includes onions and shallots. The bulbs are the most powerful flavor on the plants, but the greens are also eaten. It is these heady bulbs which are the basis for planting. Each is planted 2 to 3 inches deep and must also have room for the roots to grow. This should be a consideration when choosing your container. Garlic planted in fall is ready for harvest by June. Growing produce in pots near the kitchen is a space-saving trick, but also allows the cook in the family easy access to the freshest ingredients possible.
Containers for Growing Garlic
Growing garlic in containers provides that just-picked flavor for the strongest bulbs ever. You need one that is at least 6 inches deep and has excellent drainage. The container also needs to be big enough to leave 6 inches of space between cloves. Other things to consider are evaporation rate and heat conductivity. Terra cotta pots evaporate more quickly and will need to be watered more often than glazed pots. If you don’t care about appearance, you can even use a 5-gallon bucket with holes punched into the bottom.
Soil Mixture for Potted Garlic Plants
The proper soil medium is important for garlic planting in pots. It can’t retain too much moisture nor be too dry, and should have plenty of organic nutrients available for the bulbs. A good mix of peat, perlite or vermiculite, potting mix or compost and a little bit of builder’s sand will give you the drainage, moisture retention and nutrients necessary for growing garlic in containers. Container gardening for garlic can also include some early harvest cool vegetables, such as lettuce, which will be harvested before winter’s chill in most cases. Lettuces planted over un-sprouted cloves will minimize weeds and keep the soil broken up with their roots.
How to Grow Garlic in a Container
Once you have your planting medium and container, fill the receptacle halfway full of the soil mix. Add a slow release granular balanced plant food, such as a 10-10-10, and mix into the soil. Insert the bulbs with the pointed side up and then back fill with more soil, pressing around each clove. If moisture is minimal, water the soil until it is evenly damp. Plant a short-term crop on top or simply cover the container with organic mulch. In spring the shoots will come up and eventually turn into scapes. Harvest these for stir fry or just to eat raw. By late June, your garlic is ready to dig up and cure. Container gardening for garlic is that easy and very rewarding. Try it as an annual part of your fall planting for delicious ready-to-grab flavor and zing in all your food.
Container Gardening for Garlic
Garlic is in the Allium family, which includes onions and shallots. The bulbs are the most powerful flavor on the plants, but the greens are also eaten. It is these heady bulbs which are the basis for planting. Each is planted 2 to 3 inches deep and must also have room for the roots to grow. This should be a consideration when choosing your container. Garlic planted in fall is ready for harvest by June. Growing produce in pots near the kitchen is a space-saving trick, but also allows the cook in the family easy access to the freshest ingredients possible.
Containers for Growing Garlic
Growing garlic in containers provides that just-picked flavor for the strongest bulbs ever. You need one that is at least 6 inches deep and has excellent drainage. The container also needs to be big enough to leave 6 inches of space between cloves. Other things to consider are evaporation rate and heat conductivity. Terra cotta pots evaporate more quickly and will need to be watered more often than glazed pots. If you don’t care about appearance, you can even use a 5-gallon bucket with holes punched into the bottom.
Soil Mixture for Potted Garlic Plants
The proper soil medium is important for garlic planting in pots. It can’t retain too much moisture nor be too dry, and should have plenty of organic nutrients available for the bulbs. A good mix of peat, perlite or vermiculite, potting mix or compost and a little bit of builder’s sand will give you the drainage, moisture retention and nutrients necessary for growing garlic in containers. Container gardening for garlic can also include some early harvest cool vegetables, such as lettuce, which will be harvested before winter’s chill in most cases. Lettuces planted over un-sprouted cloves will minimize weeds and keep the soil broken up with their roots.
How to Grow Garlic in a Container
Once you have your planting medium and container, fill the receptacle halfway full of the soil mix. Add a slow release granular balanced plant food, such as a 10-10-10, and mix into the soil. Insert the bulbs with the pointed side up and then back fill with more soil, pressing around each clove. If moisture is minimal, water the soil until it is evenly damp. Plant a short-term crop on top or simply cover the container with organic mulch. In spring the shoots will come up and eventually turn into scapes. Harvest these for stir fry or just to eat raw. By late June, your garlic is ready to dig up and cure. Container gardening for garlic is that easy and very rewarding. Try it as an annual part of your fall planting for delicious ready-to-grab flavor and zing in all your food.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
Garlic has a host of health benefits and livens up any recipe. It is a key ingredient in both regional and international cuisine. Do garlic plants bloom? Garlic bulbs are no different than other bulbs in that they sprout and produce flowers. Ornamental garlic plants are grown to produce these blooms, which are called scapes. These are delicious when sautéed and provide an interesting, starry pouf of tiny florets to adorn the landscape.
Do Garlic Plants Bloom?
Garlic plant flowering takes place near the latter part of the plant’s life cycle. Planting garlic for its flowers is as simple as allowing the plants to develop longer than you normally would for bulb harvest. I’m always thrilled to see my garlic is flowering, as it increases the interest in the herb garden and I can still harvest the garlic bulbs, although the inflorescence will redirect energy from the bulb. For larger bulbs, remove the scapes and eat them before the buds burst open.
Bulbs are complex storage organs for plants. They house not only the embryo, which causes the plant to form shoots, but also contains the energy needed to start the growth and flowering process. Flowering is part of a plant’s life cycle where it seeks to produce seed and perpetuate itself. Although we most commonly grow garlic just for the intoxicating bulbs, allowing garlic plant flowering lends a unique and magical touch to the landscape. Intentionally planting garlic flowers is becoming popular due to the tasty scapes. These are simply the buds for the flower and have a long history as an edible in their own right.
Producing Ornamental Garlic Plants
If you want to try growing some of these aromatic bursts of white florets for yourself, start with planting garlic. If you want big, robust garlic bulbs, it’s inadvisable to allow them to flower, but letting the scapes themselves appear does not seem to slow bulb growth. Plant numerous seed garlic in fall for hardneck bulbs or in spring for soft neck. Let a few of these develop scapes and produce starry balls of flowers just for the enjoyment. The rest of the plants should have their scapes removed and use these in salads, soups, sautés, sauces and any other dish that can be improved with their mild garlic flavor.
What to Do if My Garlic Plant is Flowering
If you have planted garlic for its bulbs and neglect to remove the scapes, the plant is directing its energy to producing flowers rather than bigger bulbs. You can still harvest the bulbs but they will be small and low in flavor. In some regions, garlic can stay in the ground and produce a second year harvest. To reap the benefits the following year, remove the flowers and mulch around the garlic in fall. Let the green shoots die back. In spring, they should resprout and the number of garlic bulbs will increase. Pull away the mulch to allow shoots to emerge from the soil. This way you have one season where planting garlic flower was the goal, but a second season of bulb harvest is still possible. These may still be smaller than they would be without flowering but the flavor will be intense and delicious.
Do Garlic Plants Bloom?
Garlic plant flowering takes place near the latter part of the plant’s life cycle. Planting garlic for its flowers is as simple as allowing the plants to develop longer than you normally would for bulb harvest. I’m always thrilled to see my garlic is flowering, as it increases the interest in the herb garden and I can still harvest the garlic bulbs, although the inflorescence will redirect energy from the bulb. For larger bulbs, remove the scapes and eat them before the buds burst open.
Bulbs are complex storage organs for plants. They house not only the embryo, which causes the plant to form shoots, but also contains the energy needed to start the growth and flowering process. Flowering is part of a plant’s life cycle where it seeks to produce seed and perpetuate itself. Although we most commonly grow garlic just for the intoxicating bulbs, allowing garlic plant flowering lends a unique and magical touch to the landscape. Intentionally planting garlic flowers is becoming popular due to the tasty scapes. These are simply the buds for the flower and have a long history as an edible in their own right.
Producing Ornamental Garlic Plants
If you want to try growing some of these aromatic bursts of white florets for yourself, start with planting garlic. If you want big, robust garlic bulbs, it’s inadvisable to allow them to flower, but letting the scapes themselves appear does not seem to slow bulb growth. Plant numerous seed garlic in fall for hardneck bulbs or in spring for soft neck. Let a few of these develop scapes and produce starry balls of flowers just for the enjoyment. The rest of the plants should have their scapes removed and use these in salads, soups, sautés, sauces and any other dish that can be improved with their mild garlic flavor.
What to Do if My Garlic Plant is Flowering
If you have planted garlic for its bulbs and neglect to remove the scapes, the plant is directing its energy to producing flowers rather than bigger bulbs. You can still harvest the bulbs but they will be small and low in flavor. In some regions, garlic can stay in the ground and produce a second year harvest. To reap the benefits the following year, remove the flowers and mulch around the garlic in fall. Let the green shoots die back. In spring, they should resprout and the number of garlic bulbs will increase. Pull away the mulch to allow shoots to emerge from the soil. This way you have one season where planting garlic flower was the goal, but a second season of bulb harvest is still possible. These may still be smaller than they would be without flowering but the flavor will be intense and delicious.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
The vast array of sizes, textures, colors and shapes of cacti and succulents provides nearly endless diversity for the succulent collector. Moon cactus plants are known as Gymnocalycium mihanovichii or Hibotan cactus. Strangely, the plant is something of a mutant and lacks the ability to produce chlorophyll, which means they must be grafted onto a rootstock with that ability. Instructions for how to grow a moon cactus are similar to most succulents, but they are short lived for the family even with good care.
Moon Cactus Info
Hibotan cacti are native to desert habitats in various parts of South America. There are over 80 species found in Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil and Bolivia. They are a colorful group of succulents that lack the necessary chlorophyll to produce plant sugars through photosynthesis. For this reason, the plants are grafted onto a species that produces plentiful chlorophyll upon which the moon cactus can sustain itself for several years. Moon cactus plants come in vibrant bright colors of hot pink, brilliant orange and even an almost neon yellow. They are commonly sold as gift plants and make lovely window box or southern exposure houseplants. These are small plants, generally only ½ inch across, although there are cultivars that get up to 8 inches in diameter.
Propagation of Moon Cactus
The moon cactus is usually sold already grafted in a process that removes the bottom of the Hibotan and the top of the rootstock cactus. The two halves are set together at the cut ends and soon heal together. The life of the moon cactus can be extended by re-grafting it onto a fresh rootstock. It can also be grown from seed, but this takes at least a year for a recognizable specimen. Sow the seeds over a dry succulent mixture and then cover with a sprinkle of fine grit. Moisten the flat and move it to a warm location for germination. Once the seedlings are large enough to remove, re-plant them in groups for best effect. More commonly, moon cactus propagation is achieved by removing the offsets, which are smaller versions of the parent plant growing from the base of the rootstock. These divide away easily and root readily in a cactus potting soil.
How to Grow a Moon Cactus
Purchased plants will come with moon cactus info that relates to the plants care and cultivation needs. In the event that it doesn’t, care of moon cactus is similar to any succulent or cactus species. Hibotan plants prefer temperatures on the warm side but need a minimum of 48 F. (9 C.) to survive. Wild plants grow in the shelter of taller specimens which shade them from the scorching sun, so indoor plants should be partially shielded from bright sunlight by slatted blinds during the brightest part of the day. Use unglazed shallow pots with numerous drainage holes to prevent standing water at the root zone. Water deeply and then allow the soil to completely dry to the base of the pot before reapplying moisture. Suspend watering in the winter months and repot in spring to reintroduce nutrient dense soil. The moon cactus prefers to have a crowded home, which means you can repot in the same pot for several years. In rare cases, and when care of moon cactus is optimum, you may be rewarded with small red to pink flowers in late spring to early summer.
Moon Cactus Info
Hibotan cacti are native to desert habitats in various parts of South America. There are over 80 species found in Argentina, Paraguay, Brazil and Bolivia. They are a colorful group of succulents that lack the necessary chlorophyll to produce plant sugars through photosynthesis. For this reason, the plants are grafted onto a species that produces plentiful chlorophyll upon which the moon cactus can sustain itself for several years. Moon cactus plants come in vibrant bright colors of hot pink, brilliant orange and even an almost neon yellow. They are commonly sold as gift plants and make lovely window box or southern exposure houseplants. These are small plants, generally only ½ inch across, although there are cultivars that get up to 8 inches in diameter.
Propagation of Moon Cactus
The moon cactus is usually sold already grafted in a process that removes the bottom of the Hibotan and the top of the rootstock cactus. The two halves are set together at the cut ends and soon heal together. The life of the moon cactus can be extended by re-grafting it onto a fresh rootstock. It can also be grown from seed, but this takes at least a year for a recognizable specimen. Sow the seeds over a dry succulent mixture and then cover with a sprinkle of fine grit. Moisten the flat and move it to a warm location for germination. Once the seedlings are large enough to remove, re-plant them in groups for best effect. More commonly, moon cactus propagation is achieved by removing the offsets, which are smaller versions of the parent plant growing from the base of the rootstock. These divide away easily and root readily in a cactus potting soil.
How to Grow a Moon Cactus
Purchased plants will come with moon cactus info that relates to the plants care and cultivation needs. In the event that it doesn’t, care of moon cactus is similar to any succulent or cactus species. Hibotan plants prefer temperatures on the warm side but need a minimum of 48 F. (9 C.) to survive. Wild plants grow in the shelter of taller specimens which shade them from the scorching sun, so indoor plants should be partially shielded from bright sunlight by slatted blinds during the brightest part of the day. Use unglazed shallow pots with numerous drainage holes to prevent standing water at the root zone. Water deeply and then allow the soil to completely dry to the base of the pot before reapplying moisture. Suspend watering in the winter months and repot in spring to reintroduce nutrient dense soil. The moon cactus prefers to have a crowded home, which means you can repot in the same pot for several years. In rare cases, and when care of moon cactus is optimum, you may be rewarded with small red to pink flowers in late spring to early summer.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Moon cactus make popular houseplants. They are the result of grafting two different plants to achieve the colorful top part, which is due to a mutation in that grafted part. When should moon cactus be repotted? Spring is the best time for repotting moon cactus, although the cactus prefers to be rather crowded and doesn’t require a new container more than every few years. New soil, however, is beneficial, as the old soil will lose nutrients and texture over time.
Should Moon Cactus be Repotted?
Most moon cactus plants are the result of grafting Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to a base of Hylocereus. The Hylocereus is a chlorophyll producing plant while the Gymnocalycium does not produce its own chlorophyll and requires the assistance of the Hylocereus to produce food. These tiny cacti do not require repotting very frequently, but you should know when and how to repot moon cactus at least every 3 to 4 years. Cactus plants generally grow in inhospitable terrain with low fertility soil and rocky medium. They can wedge themselves into cracks and crevices with little wiggle room for roots and seem to like it that way. Similarly, a potted cactus enjoys some crowding and only needs an inch or so between itself and the container edge. The usual reason for moon cactus repotting is to change the soil. If the plant needs a new container, it will begin to show roots out of the drainage holes. This is a sign that a new slightly larger container is required to allow the plant to grow further. Choose containers that drain well and are not glazed. This is to allow any excess moisture to evaporate, an important consideration in cactus.
How to Repot a Moon Cactus
As mentioned, spring is the best time to repot cactus. This is because they are actively beginning to grow and root development is starting back up, which leads to a successful transplant. Once you have your container for repotting moon cactus, it is time to turn your attention to the new soil. A general cactus mix is sufficient but many growers have better success when they create their own moon cactus potting mix. Equal parts of a peat-based potting soil mixed with coarse sand makes an excellent and well-draining medium. Many gardeners also add some fine gravel to the bottom of the container to enhance drainage. Fill the container half way with your moon cactus potting mixture and lightly moisten it. A couple of days before repotting your cactus, water it well so the roots are moistened. Use gloves if you are worried about the little plant’s spines and carefully remove it from its container. Insert the plant at the same level at which it was growing and gently pack more of the medium around the roots. Leave enough room at the top of the container so water doesn’t spill over. Add a thin layer of gravel or sand as a mulch to the top of the container. Wait a week before watering the newly planted cactus. Water the cactus when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season but only once every 2 or 3 weeks in winter. Apply fertilizer in spring, such as a 5-10-10 every 2 to 3 months and suspend fertilizing in winter when the plant is not actively growing.
Should Moon Cactus be Repotted?
Most moon cactus plants are the result of grafting Gymnocalycium mihanovichii to a base of Hylocereus. The Hylocereus is a chlorophyll producing plant while the Gymnocalycium does not produce its own chlorophyll and requires the assistance of the Hylocereus to produce food. These tiny cacti do not require repotting very frequently, but you should know when and how to repot moon cactus at least every 3 to 4 years. Cactus plants generally grow in inhospitable terrain with low fertility soil and rocky medium. They can wedge themselves into cracks and crevices with little wiggle room for roots and seem to like it that way. Similarly, a potted cactus enjoys some crowding and only needs an inch or so between itself and the container edge. The usual reason for moon cactus repotting is to change the soil. If the plant needs a new container, it will begin to show roots out of the drainage holes. This is a sign that a new slightly larger container is required to allow the plant to grow further. Choose containers that drain well and are not glazed. This is to allow any excess moisture to evaporate, an important consideration in cactus.
How to Repot a Moon Cactus
As mentioned, spring is the best time to repot cactus. This is because they are actively beginning to grow and root development is starting back up, which leads to a successful transplant. Once you have your container for repotting moon cactus, it is time to turn your attention to the new soil. A general cactus mix is sufficient but many growers have better success when they create their own moon cactus potting mix. Equal parts of a peat-based potting soil mixed with coarse sand makes an excellent and well-draining medium. Many gardeners also add some fine gravel to the bottom of the container to enhance drainage. Fill the container half way with your moon cactus potting mixture and lightly moisten it. A couple of days before repotting your cactus, water it well so the roots are moistened. Use gloves if you are worried about the little plant’s spines and carefully remove it from its container. Insert the plant at the same level at which it was growing and gently pack more of the medium around the roots. Leave enough room at the top of the container so water doesn’t spill over. Add a thin layer of gravel or sand as a mulch to the top of the container. Wait a week before watering the newly planted cactus. Water the cactus when the top inch of soil is dry during the growing season but only once every 2 or 3 weeks in winter. Apply fertilizer in spring, such as a 5-10-10 every 2 to 3 months and suspend fertilizing in winter when the plant is not actively growing.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
One of the sweetest and most charming cactus varieties are the Mammillaria. This family of plants is generally small, clustered and widely found as houseplants. Most types of Mammillaria are native to Mexico and the name comes from the Latin “nipple,” referring to the standard appearance of most of the plants. Mammillaria are popular plants and common in many nursery centers with ease of care and propagation counted as some of their more appealing features. Read on for more Mammillaria information and descriptions of some of the more interesting plants in the family.
Mammillaria Information
Mammillaria cactus varieties can span sizes from one inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) to one foot in height (30 cm.). The majority of the readily available species are the ground hugging variety. As interior plants, growing Mammillaria couldn’t be easier. They need well-draining soil, good light and warm temperatures. There are over 300 species of Mammillaria but most you won’t see in the nursery. The tried and true varieties that thrive as houseplants are the easiest to find and provide a glimpse into the Mexican desert. Mammillaria need a cooling period to promote blooming. Flowers are funnel shaped in colors of yellow, pink, red, green and white. The family name stems from the nipple-shaped tubercles which are spirally arranged. The areoles, from which spines grow, can produce hair like or wooly spines that are either stiff or soft and in a range of colors. The arrangement of spines per species gives a wide variety of appearances as do the many flower colors produced by the plants. Mammillaria cactus plants bear spines that are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence, which states that each lower row of tubercles equals the sum of the previous two rows. This rule gives the plants an orderly patterned appearance when viewed from above.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus
Culture can vary a bit for some Mammillaria species due to differences in their native range. However, most require a small well-draining shallow container, cactus mix or a blend of potting soil and sand, and moderately dry soil except during the growing season. The light should be bright but not of the hottest, searing rays of midday. Supplemental fertilizing is not necessary but some cactus food applied in spring when active growth resumes can help produce healthier plants. These are easy plants to propagate from seed or by dividing offsets. The most common issues are the result of excess moisture and can cause rot. Mealybugs and scale may be irritating pests.
Mammillaria Cactus Varieties
Mammillaria cactus plants have many colorful names which are descriptive of their appearance. One of the cutest types of Mammillaria it the Powder Puff cactus. It has the appearance of soft, fluffy hair adorning the small body but be wary – that stuff will get into skin and leave painful impressions. Similarly, the Feather cactus has a whitish gray, soft cloud of spines that grows a thick cluster of offsets. There are several species of plant called the Pincushion cactus. These produce either flat, cylindrical or conical tubercles, depending upon species. Some of the other interesting common names in the family are: Mother of Hundreds Golden Stars (Lady Fingers) Old Lady Cactus Woolly Nipple Cactus Counter Clockwise Fishhook Thimble Cactus Mexican Claret Cup Strawberry Cactus Cushion Foxtail Cactus Silver Lace Cob Cactus Elephant’s Tooth Owl’s Eyes
Mammillaria Information
Mammillaria cactus varieties can span sizes from one inch in diameter (2.5 cm.) to one foot in height (30 cm.). The majority of the readily available species are the ground hugging variety. As interior plants, growing Mammillaria couldn’t be easier. They need well-draining soil, good light and warm temperatures. There are over 300 species of Mammillaria but most you won’t see in the nursery. The tried and true varieties that thrive as houseplants are the easiest to find and provide a glimpse into the Mexican desert. Mammillaria need a cooling period to promote blooming. Flowers are funnel shaped in colors of yellow, pink, red, green and white. The family name stems from the nipple-shaped tubercles which are spirally arranged. The areoles, from which spines grow, can produce hair like or wooly spines that are either stiff or soft and in a range of colors. The arrangement of spines per species gives a wide variety of appearances as do the many flower colors produced by the plants. Mammillaria cactus plants bear spines that are arranged according to the Fibonacci sequence, which states that each lower row of tubercles equals the sum of the previous two rows. This rule gives the plants an orderly patterned appearance when viewed from above.
Growing Mammillaria Cactus
Culture can vary a bit for some Mammillaria species due to differences in their native range. However, most require a small well-draining shallow container, cactus mix or a blend of potting soil and sand, and moderately dry soil except during the growing season. The light should be bright but not of the hottest, searing rays of midday. Supplemental fertilizing is not necessary but some cactus food applied in spring when active growth resumes can help produce healthier plants. These are easy plants to propagate from seed or by dividing offsets. The most common issues are the result of excess moisture and can cause rot. Mealybugs and scale may be irritating pests.
Mammillaria Cactus Varieties
Mammillaria cactus plants have many colorful names which are descriptive of their appearance. One of the cutest types of Mammillaria it the Powder Puff cactus. It has the appearance of soft, fluffy hair adorning the small body but be wary – that stuff will get into skin and leave painful impressions. Similarly, the Feather cactus has a whitish gray, soft cloud of spines that grows a thick cluster of offsets. There are several species of plant called the Pincushion cactus. These produce either flat, cylindrical or conical tubercles, depending upon species. Some of the other interesting common names in the family are: Mother of Hundreds Golden Stars (Lady Fingers) Old Lady Cactus Woolly Nipple Cactus Counter Clockwise Fishhook Thimble Cactus Mexican Claret Cup Strawberry Cactus Cushion Foxtail Cactus Silver Lace Cob Cactus Elephant’s Tooth Owl’s Eyes
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Lithops plants are often called “living stones” but they also look a bit like cloven hooves. These small, split succulents are native to the deserts of South Africa but they are commonly sold in garden centers and nurseries. Lithops thrive in compacted, sandy soil with little water and blistering hot temperatures. While relatively easy to grow, a little information on lithops will help you learn how to grow living stone plants so that they thrive in your home.
Information on Lithops
There are numerous colorful names for plants in the Lithops genus. Pebble plants, mimicry plants, flowering stones, and of course, living stones are all descriptive monikers for a plant that has a unique form and growth habit.
Lithops are small plants, rarely getting more than an inch above the soil surface and usually with only two leaves. The thick padded leaves represent the cleft in an animal’s foot or just a pair of green to grayish brown stones clustered together. The plants have no true stem and much of the plant is underground. The resulting appearance has the double attribute of confusing grazing animals and conserving moisture.
Lithops Succulent Adaptations
below ground, it has minimal foliar space to gather sun’s energy. As a result, the plant has developed a unique way of enhancing solar collection by means of “windowpanes” on the surface of the leaf. These transparent areas are filled with calcium oxalate, which creates a reflective facet that increases light penetration. Another fascinating adaptation of lithops is the long life of the seed capsules. Moisture is infrequent in their native habitat, so the seeds can remain viable in the soil for months.
How to Grow Living Stones Plants
Growing living stones in pots is preferred for most but the hottest zones. Lithops need a cactus mix or potting soil with some sand incorporated. The potting media needs to dry before you add moisture and you must place the pot in as bright an area as possible. Place the plant in a southern facing window for optimum light entry. Propagation is through division or seed, although seed grown plants take many months to establish and years before they resemble the parent plant. You can find both seeds and starts on the Internet or at succulent nurseries. Adult plants are common at even big box nurseries.
Lithops Care
Lithops care is easy as long as you remember what type of climate the plant originates from and mimic those growing conditions. Be very careful, when growing living stones, not to overwater. These little succulents do not need to be watered in their dormant season, which is fall to spring. If you wish to encourage flowering, add a diluted cactus fertilizer in spring when you commence watering again. Lithops plants do not have many pest problems, but they may get scale, moisture gnats and several fungal diseases. Watch for signs of discoloration and evaluate your plant often for immediate treatment.
Information on Lithops
There are numerous colorful names for plants in the Lithops genus. Pebble plants, mimicry plants, flowering stones, and of course, living stones are all descriptive monikers for a plant that has a unique form and growth habit.
Lithops are small plants, rarely getting more than an inch above the soil surface and usually with only two leaves. The thick padded leaves represent the cleft in an animal’s foot or just a pair of green to grayish brown stones clustered together. The plants have no true stem and much of the plant is underground. The resulting appearance has the double attribute of confusing grazing animals and conserving moisture.
Lithops Succulent Adaptations
below ground, it has minimal foliar space to gather sun’s energy. As a result, the plant has developed a unique way of enhancing solar collection by means of “windowpanes” on the surface of the leaf. These transparent areas are filled with calcium oxalate, which creates a reflective facet that increases light penetration. Another fascinating adaptation of lithops is the long life of the seed capsules. Moisture is infrequent in their native habitat, so the seeds can remain viable in the soil for months.
How to Grow Living Stones Plants
Growing living stones in pots is preferred for most but the hottest zones. Lithops need a cactus mix or potting soil with some sand incorporated. The potting media needs to dry before you add moisture and you must place the pot in as bright an area as possible. Place the plant in a southern facing window for optimum light entry. Propagation is through division or seed, although seed grown plants take many months to establish and years before they resemble the parent plant. You can find both seeds and starts on the Internet or at succulent nurseries. Adult plants are common at even big box nurseries.
Lithops Care
Lithops care is easy as long as you remember what type of climate the plant originates from and mimic those growing conditions. Be very careful, when growing living stones, not to overwater. These little succulents do not need to be watered in their dormant season, which is fall to spring. If you wish to encourage flowering, add a diluted cactus fertilizer in spring when you commence watering again. Lithops plants do not have many pest problems, but they may get scale, moisture gnats and several fungal diseases. Watch for signs of discoloration and evaluate your plant often for immediate treatment.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
It is always hard to find durable plants that favor punishing conditions in sandy or rocky soils. Lewisia is a gorgeous little plant perfect for such areas. What is Lewisia? It is a member of the Portulaca family, known for the attractive fleshy green leaves and ease of care common to members of this group. Lewisia bitterroot plants (Lewisia rediviva) are a favorite in my garden. With all the other garden chores required for a healthy garden, you can rest with Lewisia care. The succulents fend for themselves and bring astonishingly lovely flowers in late spring through early summer.
What is Lewisia?
Lewisia is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. There are several species available and this native of North America performs well in alpine gardens, rockeries, planters or even in along a gravel path. Lewisia bitterroot plants are herbs with medicinal uses and a name straight from history after Meriwether Lewis, the famed explorer. An interesting bit of Lewisia plant info includes its status as the Montana state flower. Its taproot was also used as a food by the Flathead Indians. They are found in nature in pine forests, rocky mesas and gravel hillsides.
Lewisia Plant Info
This low profiled plant has a moderate growth rate and perennial status in all but the coldest and hottest zones. Some forms are deciduous and prefer bright sunlight while the evergreen varieties can thrive in partial sun. The foliage forms a rosette that rarely gets taller than 3 inches with a bloom balanced on a slender stalk that grows up to 12 inches high. The thick leaves have a waxy coating that helps the plant conserve moisture. Flowers are comprised of up to nine petals, some of which have an almost feathered appearance. Blooms come in a range of hues, from yellow, white and magenta to salmon and brilliant pink.
How to Grow Lewisia
Lewisia bitterroot plants produce offsets, which are the easiest way to propagate this interesting little succulent. Simply divide them from the parent plant and pot them up to grow a good taproot and fleshy feeder roots. You can also learn how to grow Lewisia from seed. The tiny plants take a couple of seasons to form a rosette but establish easily when sown in a sandy potting mixture. Once the plants are placed in a garden situation, provide them with moderate water, excellent drainage and a minimum of nutrients. It couldn’t be simpler to grow Lewisia bitterroot plants. The primary thing to remember is to avoid excessively fertile soil and compacted or clay situations.
Lewisia Care
I like to take off the spent flowers at the rosette so the lovely foliar arrangement can be enjoyed after bloom time. Watch for slug and snail damage and avoid overwatering as this can promote rot. The plant is not susceptible to many insect or disease problems. Provided you don’t give it too much water and it doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter, this garden gem will be with you for a long time. Enjoy the dried flowers with their nut brown little capsules of seeds at the end of the season.
What is Lewisia?
Lewisia is hardy in USDA zones 3 to 8. There are several species available and this native of North America performs well in alpine gardens, rockeries, planters or even in along a gravel path. Lewisia bitterroot plants are herbs with medicinal uses and a name straight from history after Meriwether Lewis, the famed explorer. An interesting bit of Lewisia plant info includes its status as the Montana state flower. Its taproot was also used as a food by the Flathead Indians. They are found in nature in pine forests, rocky mesas and gravel hillsides.
Lewisia Plant Info
This low profiled plant has a moderate growth rate and perennial status in all but the coldest and hottest zones. Some forms are deciduous and prefer bright sunlight while the evergreen varieties can thrive in partial sun. The foliage forms a rosette that rarely gets taller than 3 inches with a bloom balanced on a slender stalk that grows up to 12 inches high. The thick leaves have a waxy coating that helps the plant conserve moisture. Flowers are comprised of up to nine petals, some of which have an almost feathered appearance. Blooms come in a range of hues, from yellow, white and magenta to salmon and brilliant pink.
How to Grow Lewisia
Lewisia bitterroot plants produce offsets, which are the easiest way to propagate this interesting little succulent. Simply divide them from the parent plant and pot them up to grow a good taproot and fleshy feeder roots. You can also learn how to grow Lewisia from seed. The tiny plants take a couple of seasons to form a rosette but establish easily when sown in a sandy potting mixture. Once the plants are placed in a garden situation, provide them with moderate water, excellent drainage and a minimum of nutrients. It couldn’t be simpler to grow Lewisia bitterroot plants. The primary thing to remember is to avoid excessively fertile soil and compacted or clay situations.
Lewisia Care
I like to take off the spent flowers at the rosette so the lovely foliar arrangement can be enjoyed after bloom time. Watch for slug and snail damage and avoid overwatering as this can promote rot. The plant is not susceptible to many insect or disease problems. Provided you don’t give it too much water and it doesn’t freeze too deeply in winter, this garden gem will be with you for a long time. Enjoy the dried flowers with their nut brown little capsules of seeds at the end of the season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
The Sceletium tortuosum plant, commonly called kanna, is a succulent blooming ground cover used for mass coverage in areas where other plants often fail. Growing kanna plants hold the moisture necessary to live through the driest of summers. However, an Internet search indicates the plant is not used primarily as an ornamental.
Information about Kanna Plants
According to some info, kanna is used medicinally in its native Cape Provinces of South Africa as a mood elevator and anti-depressant. South Africans chew the plant, which is also said to aid in weight loss and to quell the addictions of smoking and alcoholism. Some have called it the “happy plant.” This plant is also used in teas and tinctures and is sometimes even smoked along with other herbs. Unfortunately, kanna plant is not often grown in cultivation and information about kanna plants says it is dying out in the wild. One source encourages growers to attempt growing kanna plants so they can be saved from extinction. Kanna plant care is exacting when plants are young, though becomes minimal as the plants mature. Information about kanna plants indicates it is a low growing shrub related to the ice plant. Attractive flowers vary in color from white to yellow and occasionally pale orange or pink. Blooms of the Sceletium tortuosum plant are spiky and appear similar to blooms of the spider mum.
Growing Kanna Plants
Seeds for this plant are readily available online. If you are able to acquire already sprouted seedlings, the growth process will move along more quickly. Seeds may take several weeks to a few months to germinate. Be patient. Plant seeds into a sandy cactus type mix. Press seeds into moistened sand, cover and place in a warm, brightly lit spot. Keep the soil moist.
How to Care for Kanna Plant Seedlings
Once seeds have sprouted and have two sets of true leaves, scoop up the clump, along with a good amount of surrounding soil, and plant out into a small container. New growth of the young Sceletium tortuosum plant often attracts aphids. Go ahead and treat for aphids before the pests become a problem. A homemade, soapy spray is an effective means of kanna plant care pest control. Seedlings need less water and soil should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Though this plant is not a cactus, when learning how to care for kanna plant, you’ll find that it benefits from similar care. Seedlings benefit from bright light, but avoid direct sun until the plants are moved outside. The kanna plant can be planted into a bigger container or into similar soil outdoors when all danger of frost is past. When growing kanna in areas with winter freezes, lift rhizomes and store for the winter. Container grown plants can be moved into a greenhouse or garage where temperatures remain above freezing.
Information about Kanna Plants
According to some info, kanna is used medicinally in its native Cape Provinces of South Africa as a mood elevator and anti-depressant. South Africans chew the plant, which is also said to aid in weight loss and to quell the addictions of smoking and alcoholism. Some have called it the “happy plant.” This plant is also used in teas and tinctures and is sometimes even smoked along with other herbs. Unfortunately, kanna plant is not often grown in cultivation and information about kanna plants says it is dying out in the wild. One source encourages growers to attempt growing kanna plants so they can be saved from extinction. Kanna plant care is exacting when plants are young, though becomes minimal as the plants mature. Information about kanna plants indicates it is a low growing shrub related to the ice plant. Attractive flowers vary in color from white to yellow and occasionally pale orange or pink. Blooms of the Sceletium tortuosum plant are spiky and appear similar to blooms of the spider mum.
Growing Kanna Plants
Seeds for this plant are readily available online. If you are able to acquire already sprouted seedlings, the growth process will move along more quickly. Seeds may take several weeks to a few months to germinate. Be patient. Plant seeds into a sandy cactus type mix. Press seeds into moistened sand, cover and place in a warm, brightly lit spot. Keep the soil moist.
How to Care for Kanna Plant Seedlings
Once seeds have sprouted and have two sets of true leaves, scoop up the clump, along with a good amount of surrounding soil, and plant out into a small container. New growth of the young Sceletium tortuosum plant often attracts aphids. Go ahead and treat for aphids before the pests become a problem. A homemade, soapy spray is an effective means of kanna plant care pest control. Seedlings need less water and soil should be allowed to dry out slightly between waterings. Though this plant is not a cactus, when learning how to care for kanna plant, you’ll find that it benefits from similar care. Seedlings benefit from bright light, but avoid direct sun until the plants are moved outside. The kanna plant can be planted into a bigger container or into similar soil outdoors when all danger of frost is past. When growing kanna in areas with winter freezes, lift rhizomes and store for the winter. Container grown plants can be moved into a greenhouse or garage where temperatures remain above freezing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Sweet, quirky little succulents in the garden add charm and ease of care, whether grown in-ground or in containers. Jovibarba is a member of this group of plants and produces compact rosettes of fleshy leaves. What is Jovibarba? You can think of these tiny plants as another form of hens and chicks, but for all its similarities in appearance, the plant is a separate species. However, it is in the same family, sharing identical site preferences and an almost indistinguishable appearance.
Difference Between Sempervivum and Jovibarba
Some of the easiest and most adaptable plants available are succulents. Many of these are even hardy specimens which can live in United States Department of Agriculture zone 3. Jovibarba hens and chicks are not Sempervivum, a genus that includes hens and chicks and several other succulent species. They have been defined as a separate genus and while they have similar appearance and share a common name, they reproduce quite differently and produce distinctive flowers. Just like Sempervivum, Jovibarba care is simple, straightforward and easy. The differences between these two plants go farther than simple scientific and DNA classification. In most sites, growing Jovibarba plants instead of Sempervivum is an interchangeable option. Both need sunny, dry locations and produce singular rosettes with blushed leaves. This is where similarities stop, however. Sempervivum flowers are star shaped in tones of pink, white or yellow. Jovibarba hens and chicks develop bell-shaped blooms in yellow hues. Sempervivum produce pups on stolons. Jovibarba can reproduce with pups on stolons or amongst the leaves. The stems, which attach the pups to the mother plant (or hen), are brittle and dry with age. The pups then easily detach from the parent, get blown or moved away and root in a new site. This gives Jovibarba species the name “rollers” due to the pups’ (or hens) ability to roll away from the hen. Most of the species of Jovibarba are alpine species. Jovibarba hirta is one of the largest of the species with several sub-species. It has a large rosette with burgundy and green leaves, and produces many pups nestled in the rosette. All Jovibarba plants will take 2 to 3 years from maturity before flowering. The parent rosette dies back after bloom but not before numerous pups have been produced.
Growing Jovibarba Plants
Plant these succulents in rockeries, tiered gardens and well-draining containers. The most important items when learning how to care for Jovibarba and its relatives are good drainage and protection from drying winds. Most species thrive even where snow is common and can withstand temperatures of -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 C.) or more with some shelter. The best soil for Jovibarba is a mixture of compost with vermiculite or sand added for increased drainage. They can even grow in small gravel. These cute little plants thrive in poor soil and are drought tolerant for short periods of time once established. However, for best growth, supplemental water should be given several times per month in summer. For the most part, they do not need fertilizer but may benefit from a little bone meal in spring. Jovibarba care is minimal, and they actually thrive on benevolent neglect. Once rosettes have flowered and died back, pull them out of the plant group and either install a pup in the place or fill in with soil mixture. The flower stalk is generally still attached to the dead or dying rosette and simply pulling that will remove the rosette.
Difference Between Sempervivum and Jovibarba
Some of the easiest and most adaptable plants available are succulents. Many of these are even hardy specimens which can live in United States Department of Agriculture zone 3. Jovibarba hens and chicks are not Sempervivum, a genus that includes hens and chicks and several other succulent species. They have been defined as a separate genus and while they have similar appearance and share a common name, they reproduce quite differently and produce distinctive flowers. Just like Sempervivum, Jovibarba care is simple, straightforward and easy. The differences between these two plants go farther than simple scientific and DNA classification. In most sites, growing Jovibarba plants instead of Sempervivum is an interchangeable option. Both need sunny, dry locations and produce singular rosettes with blushed leaves. This is where similarities stop, however. Sempervivum flowers are star shaped in tones of pink, white or yellow. Jovibarba hens and chicks develop bell-shaped blooms in yellow hues. Sempervivum produce pups on stolons. Jovibarba can reproduce with pups on stolons or amongst the leaves. The stems, which attach the pups to the mother plant (or hen), are brittle and dry with age. The pups then easily detach from the parent, get blown or moved away and root in a new site. This gives Jovibarba species the name “rollers” due to the pups’ (or hens) ability to roll away from the hen. Most of the species of Jovibarba are alpine species. Jovibarba hirta is one of the largest of the species with several sub-species. It has a large rosette with burgundy and green leaves, and produces many pups nestled in the rosette. All Jovibarba plants will take 2 to 3 years from maturity before flowering. The parent rosette dies back after bloom but not before numerous pups have been produced.
Growing Jovibarba Plants
Plant these succulents in rockeries, tiered gardens and well-draining containers. The most important items when learning how to care for Jovibarba and its relatives are good drainage and protection from drying winds. Most species thrive even where snow is common and can withstand temperatures of -10 degrees Fahrenheit (-23 C.) or more with some shelter. The best soil for Jovibarba is a mixture of compost with vermiculite or sand added for increased drainage. They can even grow in small gravel. These cute little plants thrive in poor soil and are drought tolerant for short periods of time once established. However, for best growth, supplemental water should be given several times per month in summer. For the most part, they do not need fertilizer but may benefit from a little bone meal in spring. Jovibarba care is minimal, and they actually thrive on benevolent neglect. Once rosettes have flowered and died back, pull them out of the plant group and either install a pup in the place or fill in with soil mixture. The flower stalk is generally still attached to the dead or dying rosette and simply pulling that will remove the rosette.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Plant enthusiasts are always on the look-out for an unusual and amazing specimen. Huernia zebrina, or Lifesaver plant, is one of the best in this category. Lifesaver cactus plants are easy to grow in small dish gardens or even bonsai containers. The biggest challenges with Huernia cactus care are overwatering, incorrect lighting and mealybugs. Let’s go through some guidelines on how to grow a Lifesaver cactus and, hopefully, get some of the blooms for which it is named.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
Lifesaver Cactus Plants
Lifesaver plants can produce amazing 5-pointed, star-like blooms with zebra stripes and a thickened center that resembles a root beer flavored Lifesaver. If this isn’t enough to intrigue you, they have fascinating 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges. In lower light situations, these are deeply green, but they attain a reddish tinge in full sun. These are not frost hardy but you can try growing Huernia cactus on the patio in summer with some protection from midday sun. Succulents, like cactus, are some of the easiest plants to care for and provide a range of texture and form for any gardener’s taste. Growing Huernia cactus as houseplants is preferred for most regions of the country, as they are not tolerant of cold weather.
How to Grow a Lifesaver Cactus
Choose a well-draining container, preferably one that is unglazed and will allow evaporation of excess moisture. Use a good cactus mix or make your own blend of 1 part potting soil and 4 parts gritty material. Lighting is of special concern with Huernia cactus care. They grow under plants in their native range and can exhibit stress if grown in searing heat and light. Try an eastern or western window that is bright most of the day but doesn’t experience the hottest rays of the day. A sensible watering schedule is key to caring for Huernia. As with most succulents, the plant is prone to rot if it is too wet, but it does need supplemental water during its growing season. In winter, the plant hardly needs water at all, just once per month on average, as it is mostly dormant and not actively producing growth. In spring through summer, water the plant when the soil is dry to the touch. Make sure any saucer you have is emptied of water to prevent root rot. Another important part of Huernia cactus care is temperature. If you are growing the plant outside, it should be moved indoors if temperatures drop to 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 C.). Pests are rarely a problem, but occasionally mealybugs can become a concern. Repot any purchased plants and spray with a 1:10 dilution of rubbing alcohol and water. Additional Info on Caring for Huernia Cactus You will rarely need to repot your Lifesaver plant. They prefer a slightly crowded environment and this will also keep a tight, compact plant. Change the soil every two years, but you can usually keep the same pot. Cactus plants, in general, benefit from supplemental feeding during their growing season. Gradually increase the amount of water you give the plant in April or May. At this time, feed the plant with a 15-15-15 liquid plant food once per month diluted by half. Stop fertilizing in late August to prevent new growth from forming while the plant goes into dormancy. Huernia zebrina doesn’t really need pruning unless you want a smaller plant. You can save the cuttings, let them callus for a few days and then pot them up to create new plants. This is a really easy and fun little plant to grow and enjoy, season after season.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Hens and chicks are members of the Sempervivum group of succulent plants. They are commonly called houseleeks and grow well indoors and out, in cool or hot temperatures. Hens and chicks plants are so called because of the rosette shape and habit of the plant to produce numerous babies. A rockery or dry, nutrient challenged location is a good place for growing hens and chicks. An easy to care for garden scheme should include hens and chicks, sedum and sprawling rock cress.
Using Hens and Chicks Plants
Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) is an alpine plant, which gives it an amazing tolerance for poor soils and unwelcoming conditions. The mother plant is attached to the babies (or chicks) by an underground runner. The chicks may be as small as a dime and the mother can grow to the size of a small plate. Hens and chicks make excellent container plants both for the interior and exterior of the home.
How to Grow Hens and Chicks
Growing hens and chicks is easy. The plants are readily available in most nurseries. They require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil. Hens and chicks don’t need much fertilizer and should rarely be watered. As succulents, hens and chicks plants are accustomed to very little water. A fun project is learning how to grow hens and chicks from the offsets. The chick can be gently pulled off the mother plant and installed in a new location. Hens and chicks require very little soil and can be made to grow even in rock crevasses.
The ideal temperature for hens and chicks is between 65 and 75 F. (18-24 C.). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing. Potted plants can be placed in clay pots with a cactus or succulent mix. You can also make your own with two parts topsoil, two parts sand and one part perlite. Potted plants will need more fertilizer than those in the ground. A liquid fertilizer diluted by half should be watered in during spring and summer irrigation. You can also grow hens and chicks from seed. Online nurseries carry an amazing array of varieties and seeding your own will give you many forms for you and your friends. Seed is sown in a cactus mix and misted until evenly damp, then the seeds are kept in a warm room until germination. After germination, some fine gravel is sprinkled around the plants to help conserve moisture. Seedlings will need to be misted every few days and grown in a bright sunny window. Transplant them after they have reached an inch in diameter. Hens and chicks plants need little care. The mother plant will die off after four to six years and should be removed. The plants produce a flower when mature and these should be pulled off the plant when they expire. Divide the chicks from the mother plant at least every two years to prevent overcrowding.
Using Hens and Chicks Plants
Hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum) is an alpine plant, which gives it an amazing tolerance for poor soils and unwelcoming conditions. The mother plant is attached to the babies (or chicks) by an underground runner. The chicks may be as small as a dime and the mother can grow to the size of a small plate. Hens and chicks make excellent container plants both for the interior and exterior of the home.
How to Grow Hens and Chicks
Growing hens and chicks is easy. The plants are readily available in most nurseries. They require full sun and well drained, even gritty soil. Hens and chicks don’t need much fertilizer and should rarely be watered. As succulents, hens and chicks plants are accustomed to very little water. A fun project is learning how to grow hens and chicks from the offsets. The chick can be gently pulled off the mother plant and installed in a new location. Hens and chicks require very little soil and can be made to grow even in rock crevasses.
The ideal temperature for hens and chicks is between 65 and 75 F. (18-24 C.). When temperatures zoom upwards or plummet down, the plants become semi-dormant and will cease growing. Potted plants can be placed in clay pots with a cactus or succulent mix. You can also make your own with two parts topsoil, two parts sand and one part perlite. Potted plants will need more fertilizer than those in the ground. A liquid fertilizer diluted by half should be watered in during spring and summer irrigation. You can also grow hens and chicks from seed. Online nurseries carry an amazing array of varieties and seeding your own will give you many forms for you and your friends. Seed is sown in a cactus mix and misted until evenly damp, then the seeds are kept in a warm room until germination. After germination, some fine gravel is sprinkled around the plants to help conserve moisture. Seedlings will need to be misted every few days and grown in a bright sunny window. Transplant them after they have reached an inch in diameter. Hens and chicks plants need little care. The mother plant will die off after four to six years and should be removed. The plants produce a flower when mature and these should be pulled off the plant when they expire. Divide the chicks from the mother plant at least every two years to prevent overcrowding.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Gardeners who take the “no fuss” approach will love sempervivium plants. Sempervivum care and maintenance are almost task free and their lovely rosettes and hardy nature are stand outs among the garden. Not only do the plants thrive on neglect but they produce offsets, or new plants, every season that are simple to separate and grow as new specimens. Read on to get some sempervivum information and learn how to grow and care for these amazing plants.
Sempervivum Information
Plants that take a lot to grow, such as orchids, are a collector’s dream but their fussiness and specific needs take a lot of time and energy to sustain. For us lazy gardeners, sempervivum offers unique form and beauty without any of the effort. Try growing these succulent plants on a rockery, vertical wall or even on driftwood. Sempervivum growing conditions are only limited by good drainage and sunlight. So you say you have a hot, dry spot in the garden with rocky or gritty soil and low fertility? What should you plant? This sounds like perfect sempervivum growing conditions. Not only can these fun little alpine succulents thrive in sites that would make most other plants faint, but they multiply and flower with ease. Sempervivum produces rosettes in a host of hues. They are low growing and adaptable to most soils but prefer full sun and a well-draining medium. Many of the varieties produce star-shaped flowers in pink, red or occasionally yellow. The spiky leaves are trimmed with green, red, purple or even shrouded in fine gossamer hairs. For sheer diversity of form, size and color, these plants are excellent in a host of situations.
How to Grow Sempervivum Plants
Growing plants from scratch is a fairly easy process with most plants, but if you want to grow sempervivum from seed you will need to know a few tricks. The initial process is easy and similar to any seed. Plant seeds in 2-inch pots on the surface of the soil. Just press them into the soil. The seeds need light to germinate and temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 C.). If they don’t germinate in 4 to 5 weeks, the experts say to put the pots in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 weeks and repeat the sun and temperature conditions. In most cases, the seed will germinate and you will get tiny rosettes over time. The tricky bit is that when you grow sempervivum from seed, the plants may not be true to form, as they tend to hybridize quite easily. You will still get some fine and interesting plants, just not the same form as the parent. The easiest way to grow sempervivum plants is to separate their offsets. These will be clones of the parent and have a jump start on life. Of course, you can also purchase nursery plants too.
Sempervivum Care and Maintenance
Sempervivum plants prefer well-draining compost with 25 to 50 % sand or other grit. They may grow in trays, in ground, or on wood or in rock piles. Once established, the plant’s need no further care – in most cases. The majority of sempervivum are frost hardy but it you prefer to grow a variety that is not, plant it in a pot or flat and move indoors for winter. Sempervivum are monocarpic, which means that once a rosette flowers, it dies. Pull out the dead rosette and fill the hole with gritty soil. The plant will quickly fill in any empty spots with offsets. Note: If you wish to know how to grow sempervivum from seed, you first need to harvest it. Once flowers are spent, a small, dry, seed-filled fruit is produced. Remove these pods and allow the fruit to dry completely before crushing and removing the seeds. Refrigerate or chill the seeds for 4 weeks before sowing.
Sempervivum Information
Plants that take a lot to grow, such as orchids, are a collector’s dream but their fussiness and specific needs take a lot of time and energy to sustain. For us lazy gardeners, sempervivum offers unique form and beauty without any of the effort. Try growing these succulent plants on a rockery, vertical wall or even on driftwood. Sempervivum growing conditions are only limited by good drainage and sunlight. So you say you have a hot, dry spot in the garden with rocky or gritty soil and low fertility? What should you plant? This sounds like perfect sempervivum growing conditions. Not only can these fun little alpine succulents thrive in sites that would make most other plants faint, but they multiply and flower with ease. Sempervivum produces rosettes in a host of hues. They are low growing and adaptable to most soils but prefer full sun and a well-draining medium. Many of the varieties produce star-shaped flowers in pink, red or occasionally yellow. The spiky leaves are trimmed with green, red, purple or even shrouded in fine gossamer hairs. For sheer diversity of form, size and color, these plants are excellent in a host of situations.
How to Grow Sempervivum Plants
Growing plants from scratch is a fairly easy process with most plants, but if you want to grow sempervivum from seed you will need to know a few tricks. The initial process is easy and similar to any seed. Plant seeds in 2-inch pots on the surface of the soil. Just press them into the soil. The seeds need light to germinate and temperatures of at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit (21 C.). If they don’t germinate in 4 to 5 weeks, the experts say to put the pots in the refrigerator for 2 to 4 weeks and repeat the sun and temperature conditions. In most cases, the seed will germinate and you will get tiny rosettes over time. The tricky bit is that when you grow sempervivum from seed, the plants may not be true to form, as they tend to hybridize quite easily. You will still get some fine and interesting plants, just not the same form as the parent. The easiest way to grow sempervivum plants is to separate their offsets. These will be clones of the parent and have a jump start on life. Of course, you can also purchase nursery plants too.
Sempervivum Care and Maintenance
Sempervivum plants prefer well-draining compost with 25 to 50 % sand or other grit. They may grow in trays, in ground, or on wood or in rock piles. Once established, the plant’s need no further care – in most cases. The majority of sempervivum are frost hardy but it you prefer to grow a variety that is not, plant it in a pot or flat and move indoors for winter. Sempervivum are monocarpic, which means that once a rosette flowers, it dies. Pull out the dead rosette and fill the hole with gritty soil. The plant will quickly fill in any empty spots with offsets. Note: If you wish to know how to grow sempervivum from seed, you first need to harvest it. Once flowers are spent, a small, dry, seed-filled fruit is produced. Remove these pods and allow the fruit to dry completely before crushing and removing the seeds. Refrigerate or chill the seeds for 4 weeks before sowing.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Hens and chicks have old-time charm and unbeatable hardiness. These little succulents are known for their sweet rosette form and numerous offsets or “chicks.” Do hens and chicks plants bloom? The answer is yes, but it spells demise for the flowering rosette in a life cycle that is unique among plants. Hens and chicks flowers are the plants way of producing seed and a new generation of beguiling succulents.
When Do Hens and Chicks Plants Bloom?
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A blooming hen on a hen and chicks plant is often referred to as a “rooster.” The individual rosettes will begin to elongate and lengthen vertically when it is time to produce flowers. The process lends an alien appearance to the normally low-growing plants, with flower stalks that can get from a few inches up to a foot in length. Removing the budding stem can’t save the rosette. The blooms on hens and chicks plants are a part of a monocarpic process. That means they flower, seed and then die. There is nothing to be done about it so you might as well enjoy the pink, white or yellow flowers with bristling, erect stamen. Their work will soon be done, but the plant should already have produced many smaller rosettes, the future of the line.
Hens and Chicks Flower Care
As with the entire plant, hens and chicks flower care consists of neglect. You can leave the bloom until it has finished and the stem and base rosette will dry out and die. Clip off the stem rather than pulling it out of the living cluster or you may end up yanking some of the precious offsets. You may also choose to let nature take its course and leave the dying stem as proof of an interesting life cycle, which will eventually break off and compost in the area. The young chicks will grow larger and fill in any gaps the parent plant made when bidding its fond farewell to this world. So enjoy the flowers and the guarantee of everlasting life this plant has in its offspring.
When Do Hens and Chicks Plants Bloom?
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A rambunctious clump of hens and chicks have special allure to children and adults alike. The small plants are adaptable and resilient, producing flower-like clusters of varying sized rosettes. Gardeners new to the plants may say, “My hens and chicks are flowering,” and wonder if this is a natural occurrence. Blooms on hens and chicks plants are not only natural but an additional wonder with this fun, diminutive Sempervivum.
A blooming hen on a hen and chicks plant is often referred to as a “rooster.” The individual rosettes will begin to elongate and lengthen vertically when it is time to produce flowers. The process lends an alien appearance to the normally low-growing plants, with flower stalks that can get from a few inches up to a foot in length. Removing the budding stem can’t save the rosette. The blooms on hens and chicks plants are a part of a monocarpic process. That means they flower, seed and then die. There is nothing to be done about it so you might as well enjoy the pink, white or yellow flowers with bristling, erect stamen. Their work will soon be done, but the plant should already have produced many smaller rosettes, the future of the line.
Hens and Chicks Flower Care
As with the entire plant, hens and chicks flower care consists of neglect. You can leave the bloom until it has finished and the stem and base rosette will dry out and die. Clip off the stem rather than pulling it out of the living cluster or you may end up yanking some of the precious offsets. You may also choose to let nature take its course and leave the dying stem as proof of an interesting life cycle, which will eventually break off and compost in the area. The young chicks will grow larger and fill in any gaps the parent plant made when bidding its fond farewell to this world. So enjoy the flowers and the guarantee of everlasting life this plant has in its offspring.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
There are over 60 different families of plants that encompass succulents. Succulents are such a diverse group that you could probably name a shape or form and find a representative succulent. Greenovia succulent is evocative of roses, with similar layered petals and curved form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis is an example of this form and is in the family Crassulaceae. These tiny, rare plants are hard to find, but if you do get a hold of one, make sure you know how to grow greenovia so your unique discovery will thrive.
Greenovia Succulent Info
Cacti and succulent aficionados are forever looking for the next new plant and building unique collections. Rose-shaped greenovia is one of those hard to find specimens that many of us would give our eye teeth to own. If you are lucky, you might find them at a specialty online nursery or a friend’s plant may have pups you can acquire. Caring for greenovia is very similar to the maintenance for other succulents. As with all these sun-loving plants, water usage is the main issue. Greenovia are tiny little plants, only about 6 inches tall at maturity. They are found in the eastern and western parts of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The wild plants are in danger due to over collection and tourist activities. They are squat bodied, grayish green plants that often have a rose tinge at the edges of the leaves. The leaves are fleshy, smooth, oval to paddle shaped and layered upon another, just as rose petals nestle against themselves. By the time rose-shaped greenovia is mature, the lowest older petals pull away from the main body a bit and develop a soft sandy, pink tone. Over time, the plant can produce pups, or offsets, which you can divide away from the mother for easy new plants.
How to Grow Greenovia
Greenovia is an infrequent flowering plant and there is evidence that it is monocarpic. This means it will flower once, eventually, and then die after it sets seed. If your plant flowers and doesn’t have pups, this is bad news. You may certainly collect and plant the seed, but as with most succulents, you will have to wait years for any identifiable form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis does bloom more frequently than other greenovia without dying. Bag the heads to catch seed and sow indoors in shallow trays. Use a spray bottle to water the tiny seedlings initially. Transplant them to larger containers when you can identify several sets of leaves. Use a gritty potting soil and a well-drained pot. A faster, more immediate way to enjoy new greenovia is to use a sharp knife and divide away the pups at the base of the plant. Install them in clean soil and treat them as you would the adult.
Caring for Greenovia
Keep these succulents in a warm, brightly lit location. Water when the top surface of soil is dry. In winter, reduce water by half. Resume watering in spring when new growth commences. This is the best time to fertilize, as well. You can move your greenovia outside onto the patio or other bright location in summer but make sure to gradually adjust the plant to the outdoors. It is best to choose a location where there is protection from the highest light of the day to avoid scorching the little plants. Watch for any insect pests and combat immediately. This is especially important when the season is closing and it is time to move the plants back indoors. You don’t want any hitchhiking insects to infest your houseplants. Repot greenovia every few years. They like to be crowded so it may just be necessary to replace the soil with more fertile medium. Share the pups of these unique little plants whenever you can, so more gardeners can enjoy the little rose-shaped greenovia plant.
Greenovia Succulent Info
Cacti and succulent aficionados are forever looking for the next new plant and building unique collections. Rose-shaped greenovia is one of those hard to find specimens that many of us would give our eye teeth to own. If you are lucky, you might find them at a specialty online nursery or a friend’s plant may have pups you can acquire. Caring for greenovia is very similar to the maintenance for other succulents. As with all these sun-loving plants, water usage is the main issue. Greenovia are tiny little plants, only about 6 inches tall at maturity. They are found in the eastern and western parts of Tenerife in the Canary Islands. The wild plants are in danger due to over collection and tourist activities. They are squat bodied, grayish green plants that often have a rose tinge at the edges of the leaves. The leaves are fleshy, smooth, oval to paddle shaped and layered upon another, just as rose petals nestle against themselves. By the time rose-shaped greenovia is mature, the lowest older petals pull away from the main body a bit and develop a soft sandy, pink tone. Over time, the plant can produce pups, or offsets, which you can divide away from the mother for easy new plants.
How to Grow Greenovia
Greenovia is an infrequent flowering plant and there is evidence that it is monocarpic. This means it will flower once, eventually, and then die after it sets seed. If your plant flowers and doesn’t have pups, this is bad news. You may certainly collect and plant the seed, but as with most succulents, you will have to wait years for any identifiable form. The rose-shaped succulent called Greenovia dodrentalis does bloom more frequently than other greenovia without dying. Bag the heads to catch seed and sow indoors in shallow trays. Use a spray bottle to water the tiny seedlings initially. Transplant them to larger containers when you can identify several sets of leaves. Use a gritty potting soil and a well-drained pot. A faster, more immediate way to enjoy new greenovia is to use a sharp knife and divide away the pups at the base of the plant. Install them in clean soil and treat them as you would the adult.
Caring for Greenovia
Keep these succulents in a warm, brightly lit location. Water when the top surface of soil is dry. In winter, reduce water by half. Resume watering in spring when new growth commences. This is the best time to fertilize, as well. You can move your greenovia outside onto the patio or other bright location in summer but make sure to gradually adjust the plant to the outdoors. It is best to choose a location where there is protection from the highest light of the day to avoid scorching the little plants. Watch for any insect pests and combat immediately. This is especially important when the season is closing and it is time to move the plants back indoors. You don’t want any hitchhiking insects to infest your houseplants. Repot greenovia every few years. They like to be crowded so it may just be necessary to replace the soil with more fertile medium. Share the pups of these unique little plants whenever you can, so more gardeners can enjoy the little rose-shaped greenovia plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月23日
Succulents are a diverse form of plants that includes cacti and other moisture-storing specimens. Graptopetalum ghost plant develops a rosette shape on stems which may trail or hang. As with most plants in this group, water needs are little and exposure is important. Ghost flower plant care hinges on providing a natural environment that mimics the succulent’s native habitat. Tips on how to grow a Graptopetalum will ensure your ghost plant is healthy and enjoyable for many years.
Graptopetalum Ghost Plant Information
Thick, fleshy leaves and stems characterize most succulent plants. Ghost plants (Graptopetalum paraguayense) have thick leaves that hold excess moisture so the plant can withstand periods without rain. The silvery gray to bluish green foliage has a pinkish tinge to the edges of the leaves when they are young. Layers of leaves form the rosette, which range in size from less than an inch across to several inches wide. The plant is related to and resembles Echeveria, which is a common and fairly hardy succulent plant often used in container gardens.
These plants have color changing abilities. Full sun is the best location for them, but growing succulent ghost plants in partial shade produces the bluish-gray tones. Full sun plants tend to be yellowish-pink, pearlescent and slightly translucent. Those in punishing heat turn gray with pink overtones. Full ghost plant information must include the detail that the plant grows from the center of the rosette. This gives mature succulents a rangy appearance, which is easy fix by pinching back. The plant flowers occasionally in spring to summer with airy little yellow blooms.
How to Grow a Graptopetalum
The stems on this plant are fairly brittle and detach easily. This is because in its habitat, Graptopetalum ghost plant reproduces vegetatively. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves. Growing succulent ghost plants is ridiculously easy and a great confidence booster for the novice gardener. USDA zones 7b and up are suitable for growing succulent ghost plants. The rules for ghost flower plant care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results. Because the stems are so fragile, it is best to pick the best location for ghost plant and then don’t move it. Ghost plants need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations. Fertilize it in early spring and provide water only monthly in winter.
Graptopetalum Ghost Plant Information
Thick, fleshy leaves and stems characterize most succulent plants. Ghost plants (Graptopetalum paraguayense) have thick leaves that hold excess moisture so the plant can withstand periods without rain. The silvery gray to bluish green foliage has a pinkish tinge to the edges of the leaves when they are young. Layers of leaves form the rosette, which range in size from less than an inch across to several inches wide. The plant is related to and resembles Echeveria, which is a common and fairly hardy succulent plant often used in container gardens.
These plants have color changing abilities. Full sun is the best location for them, but growing succulent ghost plants in partial shade produces the bluish-gray tones. Full sun plants tend to be yellowish-pink, pearlescent and slightly translucent. Those in punishing heat turn gray with pink overtones. Full ghost plant information must include the detail that the plant grows from the center of the rosette. This gives mature succulents a rangy appearance, which is easy fix by pinching back. The plant flowers occasionally in spring to summer with airy little yellow blooms.
How to Grow a Graptopetalum
The stems on this plant are fairly brittle and detach easily. This is because in its habitat, Graptopetalum ghost plant reproduces vegetatively. Any rosette that breaks off has the potential to root and start a new plant. Even a leaf that drops off will root below the parent plant and produce a new rosette quickly. The new plant feeds off the leaf until it shrivels up and falls off. By then the new little ghost plant has rooted and sprouted new leaves. Growing succulent ghost plants is ridiculously easy and a great confidence booster for the novice gardener. USDA zones 7b and up are suitable for growing succulent ghost plants. The rules for ghost flower plant care are similar to those for most succulents. Container-bound plants thrive in a mixture of peat, sand or other grit, topsoil and a little bit of compost. Full sun is the best situation but they will also grow in partial sun with slightly rangy results. Because the stems are so fragile, it is best to pick the best location for ghost plant and then don’t move it. Ghost plants need excellent drainage and moderate water. You can tell when to water by sticking your finger in the soil. If it is dry several inches down or the fleshy leaves are looking shriveled, you should water. Overwatering is a cause of root rots and the plant can get several pest infestations. Fertilize it in early spring and provide water only monthly in winter.
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