文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月28日
The Alstroemeria is a hardy perennial plant goes by a number of names, of which the most popular are Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas. Peruvian Lilies are among the more exotically beautiful flowers, and make great cuttings; but they also stand alone nicely in the yard, garden or pots. Because they’re very resilient, you could have them as borders in your landscaping scheme, potted plants on the patio and indoors, or as cut flowers; all them with different colors and styles to add great color to your home and garden. As for cut flowers, a long blooming period makes them perfect for that use, and the cut flowers last for a nice period of time as well.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
The flowers can be spotted or streaked with darker colors, which look extraordinary. A recent development for the Alstroemeria is the introduction of dwarf varieties, which offer more flexibility and alternatives to places you can put the plant. They especially work well for potted containers, and can be placed in smaller garden beds where bigger plants may not work as well. Some of these new dwarf varieties have long blooming seasons, making them a welcome addition for your gardening strategy.
Where to Plant
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
When to Plant
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
How to Plant
Before you grab your plant with bare hands, be aware that Peruvian Lily can be irritating to the eyes and skin. It’s best to wear gloves and remember not to rub your eyes until you’re done with the job. As for the hole size to dig, go down deep enough so when you put the bareroot in it’ll be level with the top of the bed, covered with a little soil. The hole width should be wide enough so you spread the roots out. Space the roots about a foot apart when planting. You can now fill it in, pressing down on the soil when your finished, and/or watering it to help settle the soil around the root. Assuming it’s placed in a spot with good drainage, this won’t hurt the plant. If the soil is really cool, you can wait a little while until the ground warms up, as the plants will grow much quicker for you.
After Planting Care
For the most part the care needed for Alstroemeria is in regard to watering. They do like to get a good drink, throwing off better and larger flowers in response. You only need to be sure not to water to the point of the ground becoming too wet, which would overwhelm the plant.
Warmer Zones
Peruvian Lily will grow and bloom late into the year in zones 8-10, or possibly in other zones with the right conditions. In those zones that are borderline, you can apply some mulch to protect the plants over the winter. Sometimes in zones 8-10 the plant will occasionally throw off some blooms, giving some late-season color to the yard. In real cold zones it’s rare for Alstroemeria to survive. Below about 23°F (-5°C) they will suffer damage.
Winter Watering
Once in a while in the winter give a light dose of water to your Peruvian Lilies. They will go dormant before they resume growth and blooming the next spring.
Storing Roots
You can store your Peruvian Lilies over the winter in a temperature range of 35-41°F (2-5 °C). Keep them in a slightly moist mix during this time. Be cautious when lifting the roots as they are very brittle and can be damaged if not handled carefully. Occasionally check your tubers during the winter to be sure none are shrivelling or rotting. If you find any just throw them out.
Propagating Through Seeds
It’s not a good idea to attempt to divide Alstroemeria because of the aforementioned brittleness and difficulty of keeping them healthy during the process. It can be done, the results can’t be counted on and are unpredictable. Other than digging the roots in the fall and storing them, another option is to wait until the flowers have totally dried out and collect them from the pods at that time. You can plant them in containers to prepare for the following year, or sow them directly into the ground.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Bomarea multiflora (L. f.) Mirb.
Common Names
Vine Alstroemeria, Trailing Lily, Climbing Alstroemeria
Synonyms
Alstroemeria caldasii, Alstroemeria multiflora, Bomarea caldasii, Bomarea oligantha
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Tribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Bomarea
Flower
Color: Bright red to orange
Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
Description
Bomarea multiflora is a multi-stemmed climber up to 6.6 feet (2 m), with narrow, oblong, mid- to light green leaves. The narrowly funnel-shaped flowers appear in rounded clusters from late spring to autumn, and are bright red to orange in color, orange or yellow inside, with red, brown, or grown spots, followed by lobed, bright red fruit.
How to Grow and Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius).
Origin
Native to Colombia and Ecuador.
Bomarea multiflora (L. f.) Mirb.
Common Names
Vine Alstroemeria, Trailing Lily, Climbing Alstroemeria
Synonyms
Alstroemeria caldasii, Alstroemeria multiflora, Bomarea caldasii, Bomarea oligantha
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Tribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Bomarea
Flower
Color: Bright red to orange
Bloom Time: Mid spring to early summer
Description
Bomarea multiflora is a multi-stemmed climber up to 6.6 feet (2 m), with narrow, oblong, mid- to light green leaves. The narrowly funnel-shaped flowers appear in rounded clusters from late spring to autumn, and are bright red to orange in color, orange or yellow inside, with red, brown, or grown spots, followed by lobed, bright red fruit.
How to Grow and Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius).
Origin
Native to Colombia and Ecuador.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Bomarea edulis (Tussac) Herb.
Common Names
Pink Bomarea
Synonyms
Alstroemeria edulis (basionym), Alstroemeria affinis, Alstroemeria gloriosa, Alstroemeria grandifolia, Alstroemeria hirtella, Alstroemeria jacquesiana, Alstroemeria miniata, Alstroemeria pauciflora, Alstroemeria salsilla, Alstroemeria salsilloides, Alstroemeria sepium, Bomarea affinis, Bomarea bakeriana, Bomarea brauniana, Bomarea cachimbensis, Bomarea caraccensis, Bomarea furcata, Bomarea gloriosa, Bomarea grandifolia, Bomarea guianensis, Bomarea hirta, Bomarea hirtella, Bomarea jacquesiana, Bomarea janeirensis, Bomarea maakiana, Bomarea macrophylla, Bomarea maranensis, Bomarea martiana, Bomarea miniata, Bomarea ovata var. tatiana, Bomarea paradoxa, Bomarea perlongipes, Bomarea petiolata, Bomarea salsilla, Bomarea salsilloides, Bomarea sororia, Bomarea spectabilis, Bomarea tatiana, Vandesia edulis
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Tribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Bomarea
Flower
Color: Soft salmon, yellow outside and lime green with black spotting inside
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Bomarea edulis is a tuberous vine with attractive, twining shoots. It climbs up to 10 feet (3 m) tall, although it may be kept shorter. The flower clusters appear on the tips all summer long. The flowers are soft salmon, yellow outside and lime green with black spotting inside. If grown indoors, it can bloom all year long. Each cluster can have up to 25 blooms. The species name “edulis” refers to how the tubers are edible, supposedly tasting like potatoes.
How to Grow and Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius).
Origin
Native to Central and South America.
Bomarea edulis (Tussac) Herb.
Common Names
Pink Bomarea
Synonyms
Alstroemeria edulis (basionym), Alstroemeria affinis, Alstroemeria gloriosa, Alstroemeria grandifolia, Alstroemeria hirtella, Alstroemeria jacquesiana, Alstroemeria miniata, Alstroemeria pauciflora, Alstroemeria salsilla, Alstroemeria salsilloides, Alstroemeria sepium, Bomarea affinis, Bomarea bakeriana, Bomarea brauniana, Bomarea cachimbensis, Bomarea caraccensis, Bomarea furcata, Bomarea gloriosa, Bomarea grandifolia, Bomarea guianensis, Bomarea hirta, Bomarea hirtella, Bomarea jacquesiana, Bomarea janeirensis, Bomarea maakiana, Bomarea macrophylla, Bomarea maranensis, Bomarea martiana, Bomarea miniata, Bomarea ovata var. tatiana, Bomarea paradoxa, Bomarea perlongipes, Bomarea petiolata, Bomarea salsilla, Bomarea salsilloides, Bomarea sororia, Bomarea spectabilis, Bomarea tatiana, Vandesia edulis
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Tribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Bomarea
Flower
Color: Soft salmon, yellow outside and lime green with black spotting inside
Bloom Time: Summer
Description
Bomarea edulis is a tuberous vine with attractive, twining shoots. It climbs up to 10 feet (3 m) tall, although it may be kept shorter. The flower clusters appear on the tips all summer long. The flowers are soft salmon, yellow outside and lime green with black spotting inside. If grown indoors, it can bloom all year long. Each cluster can have up to 25 blooms. The species name “edulis” refers to how the tubers are edible, supposedly tasting like potatoes.
How to Grow and Care
To see Bomarea at their best they need a warm position with lots of sunlight (although can be grown under artificial lights). They are quite tough and the plants can survive milder areas if grown outside with roots that will survive to around 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 degrees Celsius) if a thick layer of mulch is provided but the plant may die back in prolonged cold periods but will recover by spring time when new growth emerges.
Keep plants well watered in the summer months and when winter sets in you should only provide a bare minimum amount of water and the plant should be kept almost dry.
Growing Bomarea from seed is not difficult as they have simple needs but a little preparation before the initial planting of the seed is sometimes recommended to yield the best results although the preparation is normally only needed for seeds that have been stored for longer periods. To propagate seeds successfully it is best to sow them in a well draining soil (50/50 mix of cactus compost and perlite will be fine) as soon as they are ripe or as fresh as possible in a propagator or warm greenhouse with temperature regulated at around 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius).
Origin
Native to Central and South America.
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0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Alstroemeria pulchella L.f.
Common Names
Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Peruvian Lily, Lily of the Incas, Princess Lily, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Synonyms
Alstroemeria atrorubra, Alstroemeria banksiana, Alstroemeria hassleriana, Alstroemeria psittacina, Alstroemeria psittacina var. longipedunculata, Lilavia psittacina
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Тribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Alstroemeria
Flower
Color: Crimson and light green
Bloom Time: Late spring through autumn
Description
Alstroemeria psittacina is a tuberous perennial with lush, green foliage up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. From late spring through autumn, it sends up to 3 foot (90 cm) tall flower stalks, each topped with about 5 to 9 speckled flowers in a radial pattern. The trumpet-shaped flowers demand attention, with their unusual combination of crimson and light green. The blooms make excellent cut flowers, often lasting 2 weeks in a vase.
How to Grow and Care
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
Origin
Native to Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay.
Alstroemeria pulchella L.f.
Common Names
Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Peruvian Lily, Lily of the Incas, Princess Lily, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Synonyms
Alstroemeria atrorubra, Alstroemeria banksiana, Alstroemeria hassleriana, Alstroemeria psittacina, Alstroemeria psittacina var. longipedunculata, Lilavia psittacina
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Тribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Alstroemeria
Flower
Color: Crimson and light green
Bloom Time: Late spring through autumn
Description
Alstroemeria psittacina is a tuberous perennial with lush, green foliage up to 2 feet (60 cm) tall. From late spring through autumn, it sends up to 3 foot (90 cm) tall flower stalks, each topped with about 5 to 9 speckled flowers in a radial pattern. The trumpet-shaped flowers demand attention, with their unusual combination of crimson and light green. The blooms make excellent cut flowers, often lasting 2 weeks in a vase.
How to Grow and Care
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
Origin
Native to Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月25日
Scientific Name
Alstroemeria aurea Graham
Common Names
Lily of the Incas, Golden Lily of the Incas, Peruvian Lily, Yellow Alstroemeria, Lis de Incas (French), Goldene Inkalilie (German), Guldalströmeria (Swedish)
Synonyms
Alstroemeria aurantiaca, Alstroemeria araucana, Alstroemeria chiloensis, Alstroemeria concolor, Alstroemeria mutabilis, Alstroemeria peruviana, Alstroemeria pulchella, Alstroemeria xanthina
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Тribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Alstroemeria
Flower
Color: Golden-orange and yellow
Bloom Time: June to August
Description
Alstroemeria aurea is a vigorous perennial, up to 4.9 feet (1.5 m) tall. The leaves are narrow, lance-shaped, smooth, grayish-green in color and up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. The spectacular flowers are orchid-like, golden-orange and yellow, often with spots. It is in flower from June to August. The flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by insects.
How to Grow and Care
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
Origin
Native to Chile.
Alstroemeria aurea Graham
Common Names
Lily of the Incas, Golden Lily of the Incas, Peruvian Lily, Yellow Alstroemeria, Lis de Incas (French), Goldene Inkalilie (German), Guldalströmeria (Swedish)
Synonyms
Alstroemeria aurantiaca, Alstroemeria araucana, Alstroemeria chiloensis, Alstroemeria concolor, Alstroemeria mutabilis, Alstroemeria peruviana, Alstroemeria pulchella, Alstroemeria xanthina
Scientific Classification
Family: Alstroemeriaceae
Тribe: Alstroemerieae
Genus: Alstroemeria
Flower
Color: Golden-orange and yellow
Bloom Time: June to August
Description
Alstroemeria aurea is a vigorous perennial, up to 4.9 feet (1.5 m) tall. The leaves are narrow, lance-shaped, smooth, grayish-green in color and up to 4 inches (10 cm) long. The spectacular flowers are orchid-like, golden-orange and yellow, often with spots. It is in flower from June to August. The flowers are hermaphrodite (have both male and female organs) and are pollinated by insects.
How to Grow and Care
The best place to plant Peruvian Lily is where they will either receive full sun or a slightly shaded area. At least allow them to have good morning sun. Drainage is important for the survival of Peruvian Lily, so be sure it drains well. Observe how the proposed area you want to plant responds after a good rain. If it still has standing water after about 5 hours, look for another location. If you’re limited to a certain location which holds water too long, build up the soil to a higher level to improve its drainage capabilities. The plant will rot if it sits in standing water or soggy soil.
You can plant Alstroemeria after the last frost is over. If you have your bare root plants but the ground is still hard or too wet, place the roots in a pot until the ground is ready for them. Keep them in a cool area while you’re waiting. Don’t water them much before placing them in the soil and are still in the pots.
Origin
Native to Chile.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Alstroemeria
Alstroemerias are best known as cut flowers, where their rich colors and lovely veining grace many a vase, where they'll last for as long as two weeks. But they can also be grown in the garden, where they do best in light, well-drained soil. They bloom freely through the summer and come in almost all shades of the rainbow except true blue.
Where they're perennials, in the warmest parts of the country, deadhead flowers when they are done blooming to prevent them from spreading too much by seed.
LIGHT:Part Sun, Sun
TYPE:Bulb, Perennial
HEIGHT:1 to 3 feet
WIDTH:1-2 feet wide
FLOWER COLOR:Blue, Orange, Pink, Red, White
FOLIAGE COLOR:Chartreuse/Gold
SEASONAL FEATURES:Summer Bloom
PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant
SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Cut Flowers, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance
ZONES:6-7, 9-10
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Alstroemeria, commonly called the Peruvian Lily or Lily of the Incas or Parrot Lily is a South American genus of about 50 species of flowering plants, mainly from the cool, mountainous regions in the Andes.
Some Interesting Facts about Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria flowers bloom during late spring or early summer.
Alstroemeria come in orange, pink, rose, purple, red, yellow, white or salmon colors.
Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klas von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus.
The genus Alstroemeria consists of about 50 species.
Most modern hybrid Alstroemeria plants are propagated in a laboratory.
Many hybrids and about 190 cultivars of Alstroemeria have been developed, with different markings and colors, ranging from white, golden yellow, orange; to apricot, pink, red, purple and lavender.
Alstroemeria flowers have no fragrance.
Alstroemeria flowers have a vase life of about two weeks.
Not all Alstroemeria have striped petals.
Alstroemeria stops producing flowers if they get too hot.
About the Alstromeria Flower and Plant
Alstroemeria is a slightly zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical) flower with 3 sepals and 3, generally, striped petals. The sepals and petals on the Alstroemeria are similar in color and texture - i.e., there are no solid green sepals. Alstroemeria has six stamens and an undivided style. The ovary on the Alstroemeria is inferior, with 3 carpels. Alstroemeria features a monocot plan of having floral parts in 3s.
Alstroemeria is more like grass where the veins go up the leaves but none branching across. This can also be seen in grasses, Irises and Lilies. Alstroemeria leaves are upside down. The leaf twists as it leaves the stem, so that the bottom is facing upwards.
If you look at an Alstroemeria stem you can sometimes see a spiral growth pattern on the stem. This is due to the production of new cells in a spiral sequence and this is the cause of the head moving the way it does.
If the soil temperature rises too high (above about 22 degrees Celsius) the Alstroemeria plant puts its effort into producing more large tuberous roots at the expense of flowering shoots. With some varieties this can lead to production of exclusively blind non-flowering stems and no flowers.
Some Species of Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria aurea - Lily of the Incas.
Alstroemeria aurantiaca - Peruvian Lily/Alstroemeria Princess Lily
Alstroemeria caryophyllacea - Brazilian Lily
Alstroemeria haemantha - Purplespot Parrot Lily
Alstroemeria ligtu - Lily-of-the-Nile
Alstroemeria psittacina - Lily of the Incas, White-edged Peruvian Lily/White Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria pulchella - Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Red Parrot Beak, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Growing Alstroemerias
Plant Alstroemeria in full sun, in well-drained soil.
Add a light application of organic fertilizer to the planting hole.
Place the plants no deeper than they were growing in the containers.
Set the plants 1 foot apart.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well until soil is completely moist.
Alstroemeria Plant Care
Cut off old flower stems with bypass pruners.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants in early spring, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well weekly until soil is completely moist especially summers, when there is no rain.
Some Interesting Facts about Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria flowers bloom during late spring or early summer.
Alstroemeria come in orange, pink, rose, purple, red, yellow, white or salmon colors.
Alstroemeria is named after the Swedish botanist Klas von Alstroemer, who was a pupil of the great botanical classifier Linnaeus.
The genus Alstroemeria consists of about 50 species.
Most modern hybrid Alstroemeria plants are propagated in a laboratory.
Many hybrids and about 190 cultivars of Alstroemeria have been developed, with different markings and colors, ranging from white, golden yellow, orange; to apricot, pink, red, purple and lavender.
Alstroemeria flowers have no fragrance.
Alstroemeria flowers have a vase life of about two weeks.
Not all Alstroemeria have striped petals.
Alstroemeria stops producing flowers if they get too hot.
About the Alstromeria Flower and Plant
Alstroemeria is a slightly zygomorphic (bilaterally symmetrical) flower with 3 sepals and 3, generally, striped petals. The sepals and petals on the Alstroemeria are similar in color and texture - i.e., there are no solid green sepals. Alstroemeria has six stamens and an undivided style. The ovary on the Alstroemeria is inferior, with 3 carpels. Alstroemeria features a monocot plan of having floral parts in 3s.
Alstroemeria is more like grass where the veins go up the leaves but none branching across. This can also be seen in grasses, Irises and Lilies. Alstroemeria leaves are upside down. The leaf twists as it leaves the stem, so that the bottom is facing upwards.
If you look at an Alstroemeria stem you can sometimes see a spiral growth pattern on the stem. This is due to the production of new cells in a spiral sequence and this is the cause of the head moving the way it does.
If the soil temperature rises too high (above about 22 degrees Celsius) the Alstroemeria plant puts its effort into producing more large tuberous roots at the expense of flowering shoots. With some varieties this can lead to production of exclusively blind non-flowering stems and no flowers.
Some Species of Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria aurea - Lily of the Incas.
Alstroemeria aurantiaca - Peruvian Lily/Alstroemeria Princess Lily
Alstroemeria caryophyllacea - Brazilian Lily
Alstroemeria haemantha - Purplespot Parrot Lily
Alstroemeria ligtu - Lily-of-the-Nile
Alstroemeria psittacina - Lily of the Incas, White-edged Peruvian Lily/White Alstroemeria
Alstroemeria pulchella - Parrot Lily, Parrot Flower, Red Parrot Beak, New Zealand Christmas Bell
Growing Alstroemerias
Plant Alstroemeria in full sun, in well-drained soil.
Add a light application of organic fertilizer to the planting hole.
Place the plants no deeper than they were growing in the containers.
Set the plants 1 foot apart.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well until soil is completely moist.
Alstroemeria Plant Care
Cut off old flower stems with bypass pruners.
Mulch around but not on top of the plants in early spring, with 3 inches of organic compost.
Water well weekly until soil is completely moist especially summers, when there is no rain.
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