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Miss Chen
07月27日
Miss Chen
The American elderberry (Sambucus canadensis) is a deciduous shrub that comes from North America. It is also known as the pie elder, American elder, black elderberry, elder-blow, sweet elder, or just elderberry. In late June, this fast-growing plant is covered with clusters of tiny white flowers that are followed by purplish-black fruit. The botanical name associated with this shrub is Sambucus canadensis and it is in the Adoxaceae family or Caprofoliaceae, depending on the botanist. Some consider this to be a subspecies of the common elderberry and write the name as Sambucus nigra subsp. canadensis. It should be planted in the spring. Botanical Name Sambucus canadensis Common Name American Elderberry Plant Type Shrub Mature Size 10–15 feet Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade Soil Type Rich, well-draining, loamy Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time Spring Flower Color White Hardiness Zones 3–10 Native Area North America Toxicity Toxic to people and pets; fruit is non-toxic to people once cooked American Elderberry Care American elderberry shrubs are prolific in the wild, so it's no surprise that when planted in a garden, they're easy to maintain and tolerate a wide variety of growing conditions. Once established, elderberry shrubs will be with you for the long haul.
American elderberry shrubs are 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, growing into a rounded shape. They're an excellent addition to a wildlife garden since birds love to eat the fruit. Its flowers will also attract butterflies. If you have a stream or pond on your property, elderberries can provide erosion control when planted on the banks. Although they will usually thrive even when neglected, if you're growing elderberry shrubs for fruit, you can maximize your harvest by following the guidelines outlined below. Light Elderberry shrubs need full sun exposure to partial shade. Soil The American elderberry is a good choice if you have a location that tends to be moist or wet. That said, the site should also drain well to discourage root rot. Elderberry shrubs are able to handle a pH range from acidic to alkaline, but do best in slightly acidic soil. Water Elderberries need a lot of water, but as long as the roots have had a chance to anchor themselves, the shrub can handle periods of drought. The soil around an elderberry shrub should be moist, but not waterlogged. Temperature and Humidity American elderberry shrubs' easygoing nature extends to temperature and humidity as well. While elderberries thrive in zones 3–11, they're deciduous through zone 8, and evergreen in zones 9–11, where there is no frost. Fertilizer Before planting American elderberry shrubs, turn the soil with compost. Then, fertilize annually with additional compost in the springtime. American Elderberry Varieties 'Aurea' cultivar': a shrub with yellow leaves, and red fruit instead of black 'Variegata': for foliage with variegation 'Laciniata': offers lacy dissected leaves 'Adams No. 1,' 'Adams No. 2,' 'York,' and 'Johns': produce an abundance of large drupes, and are cultivars most used if you're cooking the fruit Pruning This shrub does tend to form a lot of suckers. This can be a beneficial characteristic if you're trying to populate a native garden inexpensively, for instance, but it can be annoying otherwise. It may even become invasive in some areas. Your local garden center should know if this is the case. You can make the shrubs into a standard (small tree) form by choosing and developing a central leader. Otherwise, it is usually a multi-trunked shrub. Plan on removing dead, damaged and diseased canes (flexible branches) at the start of spring. You should also remove canes that are over three years old since younger ones produce better and this pruning will encourage new growth. Pruning can also be used to make a shrub's appearance neater, as it can become a bit lanky. Propagating American Elderberries Elderberry can be propagated by taking cuttings and rooting them. Use rooting hormone, to protect them from bacteria and fungus. Keep cuttings in a jar filled with clean water, for at least two months. Refill the water as needed, mist occasionally. Once strong roots have grown, you can plant them directly into your garden, in a well-draining area with partial shade. Elderberry can be grown from seeds but it's a tricky process. Seeds can take a couple of years to germinate, requiring something called stratification. Guidance for soaking and the need to refrigerate seeds varies, but according to the University of California, seeds can be collected from berries that have been mashed and covered in cold water for 24 hours. Skim off pulp and floating seeds, drain, and then strain and wash seeds left at the bottom of the soaking container. Dry seeds. To stratify, spread seeds on moist paper towels, and place in plastic storage bags. Refrigerate, Keep seeds moist for the 60-90 day period it takes to germinate, and check on them periodically to see if this has happened. Once germinated, plant immediately. Potting and Repotting American Elderberries Elderberries have shallow roots, making them perfect for container planting. It's best to pot in spring, in an oversized pot, at least 2 feet wide and 20 inches deep. Make sure it has drainage holes (or create your own using a drill). Use a rich potting soil, with a ph of 5.5 to 6.5. Mulch the surface with compost and water frequently so they never dry out. Common Pests/Diseases Potential problems include aphids, birds, cecropia moth caterpillars (Hyalophora cecropia), currant borers, elder shoot borer (Achatodes zeae), Eriophyid mites, fall webworms, grape mealybugs, potato flea beetles, rose chafers, San Jose scales, sap beetles, sawfly larvae, spider mites, and thrips. For all pests, remove infested shoots and canes—and destroy all prunings—and use insecticidal soap if needed.
You may see cankers, dieback, leaf spots, powdery mildew, root rots, thread blight, tomato ringspot virus and Verticillium wilt on this elderberry species. Most diseases, other than tomato ringspot virus, can be remedied by reducing overhead watering, and pruning away infected branches. Because elderberries have shallow roots, weeds can be a problem—when weeds are abundant, they can compete with the elderberry for water and nutrients. Manually remove weeds when you see them or use mulch, like hay or bark chips, as a natural weed control.
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Miss Chen
07月27日
Miss Chen
薄雪万年青应该使用浅陶瓷盆进行种植,选择含有腐叶土、园土、珍珠岩的混合土壤,先将盆土放置在阳光下暴晒消毒,确保土壤肥沃、疏松。在扦插薄雪万年青时,要将枝干剪成10厘米的长度,在分株时需要将母株分剪成大小相同的小株,消毒晾干后,再垂直栽种到土壤中,保持土壤表面湿润。
薄雪万年青要用浅盆种植 在栽种薄雪万年青时,应该选择使用陶瓷的浅盆,最好盆底拥有一个小洞,利于土壤的排水和透气作用,选择含有腐叶土、园土、珍珠岩的混合土壤,确保土壤的疏松、透气。在栽种薄雪万年青前,要将盆土都放置在阳光下暴晒消毒。
薄雪万年青的种植方法 由于薄雪万年青的叶片较小,一般都是采用扦插和分株的方式来完成种植。需要选择1年生、健康粗壮的枝干作为插穗,将其剪成10厘米的长度,剪掉枝干两侧的叶片,涂上多菌灵后,放置在通风阴凉处晾干,然后再进行栽种。 薄雪万年青在分株时,需要选择生长旺盛、没有病虫害的母株,将其从土壤中挖出,修剪掉已经损伤的枝叶,将其分剪成大小相同的小株,涂上百菌灵溶液,起到杀菌消毒的作用,然后等到晾干后再进行种植。 在插穗和小株处理完成后,将其垂直插入土壤中,保证插土的深度为枝干长度的2/3即可,然后再表面填上一层厚度为1~2厘米的细土,压实土壤后及时浇一次水,确保水能够从盆底流出,放置在阴凉的地方进行培养。
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Miss Chen
07月26日
Miss Chen
冬天法师叶子变软,若是温度较低导致的,需要移置到室内养护,保证通风透气、阳光充足的生长环境,浇水的水温需要控制在50摄氏度左右。若是光照不足导致的,需要放置在阳台养殖,若是浇水过多导致的,需要停止浇水,加快水分的蒸发。若是施肥过多导致的,需要进行换盆处理。
冬天法师叶子变软的解决方法 冬天法师叶子变软,可能是温度较低冻伤叶片导致的,需要将植株移置到温暖的室内进行培养,每隔2~3天浇一次水,水温要控制在50摄氏度左右,不用施加肥料,防止肥害现象的发生,影响植株正常的生长。 冬天法师叶子变软,也可能是光照不足导致的,此时应该将植株放置在向阳的阳台或窗户旁,保证充足的阳光照射,促进光合作用的正常进行,加快叶绿素的形成,叶片就不会发生变黄、发软的现象,能够生长得更加繁茂。
冬天法师叶子变软,还可能是浇水过多导致的,此时应该停止浇水,可以施加盐碱性较强的肥料,加快土壤中水分的蒸发,也可以将底部土壤翻开,放置到表面进行晾晒,但是注意时间不能过长,会对根系造成损失。 施肥过多也是导致冬天法师叶子变软的原因之一。由于冬季植株生命活动较弱,需要消耗的养分含量较低,根系无法吸收过多的肥料,导致大量有机质堆积在土壤中,发生反应后会释放出热量,灼伤了植株的根系。
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Miss Chen
07月26日
Miss Chen
光叶子花在幼苗期修剪时,需要进行摘心打顶的处理,促进侧枝和侧芽的生长。在生长期,需要改善植株的通风和透光性,剪掉徒长的部分。在花期结束的时候,需要剪掉凋零、腐烂的花朵,在休假期剪掉已经枯萎、分叉、病虫害的枝干。
光叶子花修剪的方法 在光叶子花的幼苗期,应该采摘心打顶的方法,剪掉主干顶端的部分,促进植株侧枝的侧芽的生长,保证了植株能生长出更多的分枝,也能确保在生长过程中,植株枝干的生长分布能够匀称、整齐,枝干不会出现过密、过疏的现象。 在光叶子花的生长期,需要对枝干生长过于繁茂的部分,进行随机修剪,改善植株的通风和透光性。将主枝上徒长的部分剪掉,促进花苞的生长,提供充足的养分,加快花朵绽放的速度,还需要修剪损伤的枝叶。
在光叶子花的花期结束时,需要将枝干上凋零、腐烂的花朵剪掉,既能避免影响植株观赏的美观程度,又能够避免植株过多不必要的养分消耗,防止腐烂的花朵产生病菌感染整个植株,还需要将落地的花朵用土壤埋好,加快发酵的速度。 在光叶子花的休眠期,需要将植株上枯萎、病虫害、分叉、发黄的枝干全部剪掉,促进植株正常的生长和发育,确保自身储存的养分,能够维持整个冬季的生长。将生长旺盛、健康、没有开过花的侧枝,作为新的主枝进行培养,有利于第二年更好地开花。
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Miss Chen
07月25日
Miss Chen
There are many types of alliums (or "flowering onions," as they are sometimes called), which come in various heights and with flower heads of various sizes. Ambassador allium is a type that is valued for being tall and for bearing large, globe-shaped flower heads. While they are related to such better-known plants as onions and garlic, flowering onions serve ornamental purposes. 'Ambassador' is one of the showiest; it adds great color to the late-spring bulb garden.
Botanical Name Allium 'Ambassador' Common Name Ambassador allium, Ambassador flowering onion Plant Type Bulb plant Mature Size 46 inches tall Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Friable, evenly moist, and well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time May to June Flower Color Light purple Hardiness Zones 5 to 8 Native Area Northern Hemisphere Ambassador Allium Care Plant spring-flowering bulbs such as alliums in fall. The colder your climate, the earlier in autumn you should plant them. Thus gardeners living in hardiness zone 5 should plant in October, while, at the opposite end of the spectrum, you should wait until December to plant the bulbs if you live in zone 8. How deep you should plant the bulbs is information that is usually provided on the packaging. But if it is not, there is a rule of thumb to remember. Measure the diameter of the bulb and multiply that number by 3. That is your planting depth. Water in the bulbs after planting them. You may have to kill slugs and snails to grow Ambassador allium successfully. Leaf miners can also be a problem. But unlike with crocus bulbs, for example, you will not have to worry about rodents. It is also a deer-resistant plant. As always with spring bulb plants, leave the foliage alone after blooming is finished. No matter how ratty it looks, resist the temptation to cut it off. It is better for the plant's nutrition to let it die back naturally. Until it does so, furnish it with water during dry spells. To propagate, divide the bulbs in spring or fall. Light For optimal flowering, grow Ambassador allium in full sun. Soil Grow Ambassador allium in well-drained soil. In terms of soil pH, it prefers somewhat acidic ground, but it tolerates a neutral pH. Water Keep the soil around your Ambassador allium evenly moist. But, once mature, it is a relatively drought-tolerant perennial. Fertilizer Fertilize it with compost. Is Ambassador Allium Toxic? Plants in the Allium genus are poisonous to pets. If you have a cat that goes outdoors, for example, erect a fence around the part of the garden where you are growing Ambassador allium so that your cat cannot access the plant. Alliums are poisonous plants for dogs, as well. Pets can become deathly ill from eating the seeds. What Makes Ambassador Allium Special You will hear some specialized terms when reading about flowering onions (although they are not unique to the Allium genus). Two of them are: "Umbel" "Scape" According to etymonline.com, "umbel" and "umbrella" ultimately derive from the same Latin word. This fact makes it easier for beginners to remember that an umbel is a flower head composed of numerous short flower stalks fanning out from a central point (rather like the ribs of an umbrella). Meanwhile, a "scape" is a long, bare stalk that supports a flower (as opposed to a flower stalk that bears leaves somewhere between the ground and the flower).
The 'Ambassador' cultivar stands out in two ways: It bears a big umbel (often 7 inches across) that is perfectly round and densely packed with tiny, star-shaped, light-purple flowers. While not the biggest of flower heads among the flowering onions (that of Allium schubertii, for example, is bigger), its size combined with its density makes it an impressive sight. It is one of the tallest flowering onions (the tallest examples may stand 46 inches tall). In fact, due to the height of its scape, some refer to it as a "giant" allium. This scape is very sturdy, making it good for floral arrangements. Grown in USDA zone 5, Ambassador allium will begin blooming the third week in May and continue blooming until the second week in June. The plant becomes dormant in summer. Even after flowering has ended, an attractive dried seed head remains behind to offer visual interest in early summer. The leaves of Ambassador allium are strap-like. Landscape Uses for Ambassador Allium Juxtapose Ambassador allium with a yellow, late-blooming tulip plant to create a sharp color contrast. It is also a good companion plant for rose bushes. Its tall stature makes it a logical choice for insertion into the back row of a flower border. Such placement offers a bonus: The unsightly leaves of early summer will be hidden, as will be the "hole" left behind by the time it becomes dormant in mid-summer.
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Miss Chen
07月25日
Miss Chen
繁殖蓝花丹可采用扦插繁殖,春季扦插要结合修剪来进行扦插,夏季扦插需挑选粗壮的枝条,将其插入准备好的沙床中,控制好温度,及时上盆。还可通过播种的方式来进行繁殖,要选择合适的土壤播种,控制好温度。还可进行分株繁殖,在春季的时候分花丛,分栽即可。
蓝花丹的繁殖方法 蓝花丹可以进行扦插的方式来进行繁殖。扦插的时间可选择在春季或夏季进行。若是在春季扦插的时候就要结合换盆修剪,而被修剪下来的枝条就可进行扦插。若是在夏季扦插的时候就要选择那些枝干粗壮的枝条。 夏季扦插的枝条长度为10至15厘米即可,将剪下来的枝条直接扦插于事先准备好的沙床之中,保持土壤环境的湿润,控制好温度在23度左右,一般的在一个月之内即可生根,生根之后三周左右要及时的上盆,进行蓝花丹的移栽。
蓝花丹还可以通过播种的方式来进行繁殖。播种之前要选择疏松透气及排水性能良好的沙质土进行播种,而且要保证土壤内没有虫子、虫茧之类的。播种之后要控制好温度,一般的在22度左右最适宜蓝花丹的生根发芽。 期间土壤要求浇水要适量,保持土壤微润即可,保持阳光照射,还要经常的施氮磷钾的复合肥,保证蓝花丹幼芽期的生长供需。蓝花丹还可以进行分株繁殖,方法为在春季的时候,将花分成数丛,分别进行栽种即可。
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Miss Chen
07月24日
Miss Chen
秀球花修剪是等全开败再修剪,但是在不同的季节都要修剪,这样才能保证植株正的生长发育,利于植株更好得开花。在春季的时候,主要修剪靠近花朵上方的对芽和残花,在夏季的时候,主要修剪生长茂密处的枝叶,在秋季的时候,主要修剪枯萎、细弱、病虫害的枝叶。
秀球花需要等到全开败时再修剪 秀球花在落花后需要及时修剪,减少植株生长中水分和营养物质的不必要流失,但是修剪不能经常进行,会促使植株伤口愈合速度变缓,伤口容易感染细菌,影响植株的正常生长发育,不利于第二年更好得开花。
秀球花的修剪方法 在春季修剪秀球花的时候,主要将靠近花朵上方的对芽剪掉,修剪掉枯萎、凋零的花朵及枝干,减少植株水分和营养物质的流失,促进侧枝和叶片的生长,可以在切口处涂上多菌灵后,覆盖上一层塑料膜,加快植株伤口的愈合。 在夏季修剪秀球花的时候,主要对植株生长茂密的枝干和叶片,进行疏剪和随机摘心处理,改善植株通风和透光性,将植株的主干截短,只保留顶端的枝叶,将分叉、重叠、下垂的枝干全部剪掉。 在秋季修剪秀球花的时候,主要将植株上的枯萎、细弱、病虫害的枝叶全部剪掉,将已经开过花的枝干也剪掉,把没有开过花、健康粗壮的枝干,作为新的主干进行培养,利于植株第二年更好得开花,在冬季的时候不用修剪。
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