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Miss Chen
02月24日
Miss Chen
Catawba rhododendron is a member of the heath family, making it a relative of such landscape plants as: Winter heath (Erica x darleyensis) Heather (Calluna vulgaris) Andromeda (Pieris japonica) Mountain laurel (Kalmia latifolia) FEATURED VIDEO An even closer relative is the azalea, which also belongs to the Rhododendron genus. This multi-stemmed plant is grown mainly for its large clusters of lavender flowers. But a secondary feature worthy of consideration is its large, attractive, evergreen leaves, which are glossy and a dark green color. Botanical Name Rhododendron catawbiense Common Name Catawba rhododendron Plant Type Broadleaf evergreen shrub Mature Size Will stay 6 to 8 feet tall and 4 to 6 feet wide for many years but can eventually get larger Sun Exposure Partial shade to full shade Soil Type Fertile, well-drained Soil pH Acidic Bloom Time April to June Flower Color Most commonly lavender-pink but does come in other colors Hardiness Zones 4 to 8 Native Area Southeastern United States
How to Grow Catawba Rhododendron One key to growing Catawba rhododendron bush successfully is realizing just how sensitive its root system is and taking appropriate steps to protect it. For example, the root system does not like to be exposed to heat, which is one reason why it should be grown in the shade. But locating the plant in the shade is just the beginning of pampering its roots. You can't let the roots dry out, so Catawba rhododendron would not be an ideal plant to grow in regions prone to drought. On the other hand, Catawba rhododendron does not like having wet feet (which is likely to happen if you are trying to grow it in a clayey soil), so good drainage is essential. In ground with poor drainage, the plant can suffer from root rot. Moreover, this bush has a shallow root system, meaning that its roots are easily damaged (for example, by weeding too vigorously around it and accidentally striking its roots with a shovel). Some of these concerns can be addressed by applying 3 inches of mulch around your Catawba rhododendron. A layer of mulch will: Reduce the amount of heat that permeates down to the root system Help retain moisture Cut down on weed growth and furnish a protective buffer between you and the root system Catawba rhododendron is attacked by many kinds of insect pests. Happily, hummingbirds also like it. Prune your Catawba rhododendron just after it is done flowering. Tardy pruning could cause a reduction in flowers for next year. As always when pruning shrubs, start by pruning off dead or damaged branches. Next, trim off any branches that are sticking way up above the rest, thereby spoiling the overall shape of the bush. Yearly pruning will promote a more compact shape. Light Give Catawba rhododendron a little morning sun at the northern end of its range. At the southern end of its range, give it full shade. Soil Make sure that the soil for these shrubs drains well. If the soil does not currently drain well, amend the soil with organic matter. Water Catawba rhododendron has average water needs, but try to keep its soil evenly moist. Fertilizer Fertilize Catawba rhododendron in spring yearly by working compost into the soil.
All parts of this bush are poisonous, so do not allow small children around it since they may be tempted to nibble at its foliage or flowers. Uses for Catawba Rhododendron Bushes Catawba rhododendron, with its rounded habit, nice foliage, and colorful flowers, is impressive enough to function as a specimen plant in spring. Alternatively, mass several Catawba rhododendron shrubs together to create an attractive living privacy screen. Gardeners with a lot of shade in their landscapes will value Catawba rhododendron as a plant that tolerates almost full shade (a growing condition that many plants simply will not put up with). It is an ideal plant for woodland gardens, particularly those with excessive shade. Catawba Rhododendron Cultivar for Moon Gardens If you are seeking shrubs for moon gardens and wonder if there is a white-blooming Catawba rhododendron, you are in luck. A cultivar of this popular flowering shrub with white flowers is Rhododendron 'Catawbiense Album.' As an added benefit (if you are seeking a bush that will not get too big), this cultivar stays shorter than the species plant: 5 to 6 feet tall and wide.
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Miss Chen
02月23日
Miss Chen
The gloriosa lily is not a true lily, but it has lily-like flowers and this is how it got its common name. This plant belongs to the same family as autumn crocuses, Colchicaceae, but it does not look like a crocus either—it is a slender, tall vine that grows up to eight feet tall. In the spring, the gloriosa lily sends out tall stems from its thick, tuberous roots. The stems grow quickly and from mid-summer to fall develop flowers that can be nodding or opening upwards. After the bloom, the stems die back. Two words of caution about this plant. Firstly, the tubers spread vigorously and in Australia and several Pacific islands, gloriosa lily is classified as invasive. While it has not been classified as invasive by any US state, it has escaped cultivation in several areas. Due to its highly invasive potential, it is recommended to grow gloriosa lily in pots only.
Botanical Name Gloriosa superba Common Name Gloriosa lily, glory lily, fire lily, flame lily, climbing lily, creeping lily, cat’s claw, tiger’s claw Plant Type Perennial Mature Size Six to eight feet height, one to three feet width Sun Exposure Full sun, partial shade Soil Type Sandy, loamy Soil pH 5.8 to 6.5 Bloom Time Mid-summer to fall Flower Color Red, orange, yellow, pink Hardiness Zones 8-12, USA Native Area Tropical and sub-Saharan Africa, Indian subcontinent, southern China and southeast tropical Asia Toxicity Toxic to humans and animals Gloriosa Lily Care As a native of subtropical and tropical areas in Africa and Asia, Gloriosa lily is not frost-resistant and can only be grown as a perennial in a warm climate. In a cool climate zone, you can still grow it as a summer annual. Just dig the tubers out in the fall before the first frost and overwinter them indoors, then replant them in the spring. When the stalks start growing in the spring, have the support in place, such as a light wire trellis, so the leaf tendrils have something to latch onto. Light Gloriosa lily grows in full sun to partial shade. Especially in hot, dry climates, it does better with some protection from the hot afternoon sun, such as dappled shade from nearby taller plants. Soil The soil should be rich and provide excellent drainage. Sandy or loamy types will work best. To enrich the soil, amend it with organic matter. Gloriosa lily grows well in neutral to slightly acidic soil. Water Gloriosa lily needs even moisture during the growing season from spring to fall. In the absence of rain, water it regularly while making sure there is good drainage, so the plant never sits in soggy, wet soil. Temperature and Humidity Gloriosa lily grows in elevations up to 2,000 feet, where the daytime temperature is moderate, around 70 degrees, and nights are cool, around 60 degrees F. It does not do well in hot, arid climates. In high humidity, on the other hand, gloriosa lily is in its element—think monsoon season in its native habitat. Fertilizer Fertilize gloriosa lily about once a month with a diluted complete fertilizer during the growing season, less frequently when the soil is very rich. Too much fertilizer will not necessarily lead to a better bloom and can instead encourage the growth of foliage. Propagating Gloriosa Lily Gloriosa lily is grown from tubers, which remain dormant during the winter. Store the tubers in a dry, cool, frost-free location until you are ready to plant in the spring when the danger of frost is past. The growth will be slow at first and pick up as the weather gets warmer. Gloriosa lily can be divided every three years at the maximum. Varieties of Gloriosa Lily There are several cultivars of gloriosa lily with different colored flowers ranging from yellow to golden, orange, red or pink. One of the most popular cultivars is ‘Rothschildiana’ with bright red flowers and yellow margins.
Growing Gloriosa Lily in Containers Growing gloriosa lily in containers is a good idea for several reasons. First, it’s the only way you can grow it in a cool climate with subzero winters. Second, you avoid the risk that it will spread uncontrolled and become invasive. And lastly, the tubers are very brittle and break easily so the less you are handling them the better (and because of their toxicity, handling them requires special precautions). Therefore, the best option is to plant the tubers in containers where you leave them year-round. In containers, they will need more frequent watering and a sunny patio is usually too hot for the plant. Alternatively, you can bury the containers in garden soil and dig them out again in the fall before the first frost. Common Pests/Diseases Gloriosa lily can be affected by aphids, anthracnose, the cucumber mosaic virus and other viruses, as well as root rot. Leaves that turn dry and pale are not a disease but a sign of too much sun exposure.
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Miss Chen
02月21日
Miss Chen
The cast-iron plant (Aspidistra elatior) has earned its reputation as a hard-to-kill houseplant, along with being a beautiful outdoor foliage plant within its growing zones. This plant can survive lots of neglect and growing conditions that will kill many other plants, such as low light conditions. It has arching, lance-shaped, deep green, glossy leaves that can reach around 2 feet long and 4 inches wide. When grown outdoors, it sometimes produces insignificant cream and purple flowers near the base of the plant, but the blossoms usually do not appear when the plant is grown indoors. The cast-iron plant has a fairly slow growth rate, and spring is generally the best time to plant it. Common Name Cast-iron plant, bar room plant Botanical Name Aspidistra elatior Family Asparagaceae Plant Type Perennial, herbaceous Mature Size 2–3 ft. tall, 1–2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Partial, shade Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Spring, summer Flower Color White/purple Hardiness Zones 8–10, USA Native Area Asia Cast-Iron Plant Care For a gardener with a brown thumb, this sturdy, long-lasting plant can be used in areas where all else fails. It is always green and can handle deep shade under deck stairs or along foundations that receive almost no sunlight. Plus, insects usually leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease. Cast-iron plants require very simple maintenance: watering when the soil dries out and fertilizing for part of the year. Most mistakes that occur with these plants involve overwatering (they dislike waterlogged soil) or placing them in direct sunlight. With cast-iron plants, a fairly hands-off approach is typically best. Light Keep cast-iron plants away from direct sunlight, which can bleach and burn the leaves. If you're keeping one as a houseplant, a north-facing window is ideal. Set it slightly back from windows that get strong light to avoid direct sun. When growing cast-iron plants outdoors, place them in a shady area with indirect sunlight. Soil Cast-iron plants tolerate a wide range of soils, as long as they have good drainage. They prefer organically rich soil with a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH. Outdoors, they can grow in sandy, loamy, and even clay soils. For container plants, simply use a standard quality potting mix. Water While these plants have some drought tolerance, they like a moderate amount of soil moisture. Water young cast-iron plants regularly to keep the soil lightly moist but not soggy. Soil that remains wet for too long can cause root rot. Water established plants deeply, and then let the soil dry out a few inches down before watering again. A good general rule is to water when you can stick your finger in the soil and not feel any dampness. Temperature and Humidity Cast-iron plants prefer temperatures between 60 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They are not hardy to cold, and temperatures that drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit can damage or kill them. So if you're growing your plant in a container outdoors, be sure to take it inside well before the threat of frost. Moreover, cast-iron plants like a moderate humidity level, but it's not a necessity for healthy growth. Fertilizer Feed your cast-iron plant once a month with an all-purpose liquid fertilizer during the spring and summer months, following label instructions, or use a slow-release fertilizer in the spring. It's not necessary to fertilize during the fall and winter months. Only apply fertilizer after watering the plant to avoid burning the roots. Types of Cast-Iron Plants There are several varieties of cast-iron plants, including: 'Variegata': This cultivar features green leaves with white stripes. 'Asahi': This variety's green leaves develop white tips as they grow. 'Hoshi-zora': This plant's name translates to starry sky, and its green leaves are speckled with yellow to white dots. 'Lennon's Song': The leaves on this variety have light green or yellow stripes.
Propagating Cast-Iron Plants Cast-iron plants can be propagated by division. Not only does this give you a new plant for less than it would cost at a nursery, but division also prevents mature plants from becoming overcrowded. To start a new plant, take a piece of the rhizome (underground stem) that includes at least two leaves. Plant this piece either in a pot with fresh potting mix or directly in the ground. Keep the soil lightly moist, but ensure that it has good drainage. Also, make sure the new plant stays warm but isn't in direct sunlight. Once you see new shoots develop, you'll know your new cast-iron plant has developed its root system and its hardiness. Then, you can begin to treat it like an established plant. Potting and Repotting Cast-Iron Plants When growing cast-iron plants in containers, it's key to use a pot with ample drainage holes. An unglazed clay container also is ideal because it will allow excess soil moisture to escape through its walls. Select a pot that's just slightly larger than the root ball to start, as these slow-growing plants won't outgrow their containers quickly. Once you see roots growing out of the soil, you'll know it's time to repot your cast-iron plant into something slightly larger. This might not happen for three to five years. Ideally, try to repot in the springtime, and select one container size up. Gently remove your plant from its old pot, and place it at the same depth in the new pot with fresh potting mix. Common Pests Cast-iron plants do not often succumb to pest or disease problems, especially when grown in their natural environment. As houseplants, they can be slightly susceptible to common houseplant pests, including mites and scale. Rinsing the foliage can help to dislodge the pests and control a minor infestation. For more severe infestations, consider an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil. Common Problems With Cast-Iron Plants Cast-iron plants have very few problems as long as they're grown in their preferred conditions. But some common issues can arise when the environment isn't to their liking. Browning Tips Brown leaf tips are commonly due to overwatering or underwatering, especially with cast-iron plants grown in containers. Always check the soil moisture before watering, and wait to water until the soil is dry a few inches down. Also, ensure that excess water is able to drain out of the container.
Leaves Turning Brown Parts of or even entire leaves turning brown on cast-iron plants is often the result of too much sunlight. Check your plant throughout the day to make sure direct sun is never hitting it, and relocate it if necessary. Drafts indoors, especially from air-conditioning vents, and cold temperatures outdoors also can cause browning foliage. Make sure your plant is protected from temperature extremes. FAQ Do cast-iron plants need sun? Cast-iron plants must stay out of direct sunlight, but they do need some indirect sun to grow. Are cast-iron plants easy to care for? Cast-iron plants are extremely hardy and require little maintenance to keep them looking their best. How fast do cast-iron plants grow? The cast-iron plant grows slowly and can take several years to reach its mature size.
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Miss Chen
02月19日
Miss Chen
The popcorn plant is a tall shrub, and in its native African habitat it can grow up to 25 feet in height. When grown as a small shrub in colder climates as an annual, it usually doesn't get taller than 3 feet. The plant's common name comes, in part, from its distinctive scent, said to be uncannily like buttered popcorn. The smell comes not from the bright yellow flowers (which also look a bit like popped popcorn), but from the small oval leaves. The leaves grow to about 3 inches long in pairs up and down the stem. The plant is popular with children for its recognizable scent that must be coaxed by touching the leaves. However, since the plant is poisonous if ingested, it's best not to have it in reach of small children or curious pets. Botanical Name Senna didymobotrya Common Name Popcorn plant, cassia Family Fabaceae Plant Type Perennial, annual Mature size 10-25 ft. (perennial), 2-3 ft. (annual) Sun Exposure Full Soil Type Well-drained Soil pH Acidic, neutral Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow Hardiness Zones 9 Native Areas Africa Toxicity Toxic to Humans and Pets Popcorn Plant Care With proper care, plenty of water, and good fertilizer, popcorn plants will bloom all summer long and into the autumn but will be at their most floriferous in the hot humid days of summer. When other plants wilt in the heat, the popcorn plant flourishes. After flowering for a long season, the plant puts out brown seed pods that are a tasty snack for songbirds. The popcorn plant's vibrant color makes it a dramatic sight in the summertime garden landscape. It is a heat-tolerant species, well suited to hot and humid regions. Popcorn plants are somewhat invasive in their native Africa. One variety of the Senna genus can be quite weedy in some hot humid regions such as south Florida. Check the label and be sure to get Senna didymobotrya and not Senna pendula var. glabrata. Light The popcorn plant likes heat and light, so it's best to place your plants in direct sun. If the plant is getting too hot and dry, its leaves may close up during the day. They also tend to close up at night to conserve moisture. Soil This plant likes very fertile, rich, and well-drained soils. When grown in pots, potting mix with some sandy loam is a good combination. Potting mix alone may drain quickly and leave this moisture-loving plant too dry. Water Water your tropical popcorn plant regularly. Daily is the best bet if it's in a container. If the leaves close up during the day, that means it may be wanting some water. Keep the soil moist but not wet. Misting the leaves with water in a sprayer is advisable if the weather is hot and dry. Temperature and Humidity After daily temperatures fall below 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the flowering and growth of your popcorn plants will slow down somewhat. This plant adores high humidity levels. Fertilizer Popcorn plants respond well to fertilizer throughout the growing season. Fertilize in late spring and again once or twice in middle and/or late summer with a fertilizer designed specifically for tropical plants. Pruning Deadheading spent blooms and trimming any dead or leafless branches will help to keep your popcorn plant looking healthy and full. There's no need for serious pruning. Propagating Popcorn Plants This plant can also be propagated from seeds or cuttings but is usually fairly inexpensive at a garden shop when purchased as an annual. Keep in mind that growing it from cuttings can take a long while and is often unsuccessful, which is why propagating via seed is usually the best bet.
How to Grow Popcorn Plants From Seed The seed pots on popcorn plants are several inches long and contain at least a dozen seeds each. Pull the dried pods from the plant in late fall and collect the seeds. Before planting in the spring, soak the seeds in water for 24 hours. Sow them in containers filled with well-draining yet moist potting soil. Sow them in very early spring with the goal of planting healthy seedlings in the garden after all threat of frost has passed. Potting and Repotting Popcorn Plants When growing these plants in containers, make sure the soil is well-draining, and ensure plenty of drainage holes in the bottom of the container. It can also help to add a layer of pebbles to allow the water to drain even further. The container should be at least a few inches wider than the roots of the plant to allow for space to grow, as well as wide enough to handle the height of the growing plant without allowing it to topple over. Overwintering Popcorn plants can be overwintered if kept indoors. A greenhouse is preferable, but a garage is fine if the temperature stays above 40 degrees Fahrenheit. They will only need watering occasionally. If kept in a dark place the plant will go dormant. Bring it back outside once all danger of frost has passed and the nighttime temps stay above 40 degrees Fahrenheit on a regular basis. If you are in a tropical zone, overwintering plants in the garden should not be an issue. Common Pests and Plant Diseases Fortunately, this plant doesn't have much trouble with pests or diseases. Aphids will sometimes sample it; they can be remedied by a strong jet of water to wash them away or horticultural oil to deter them. This plant can also experience fungal diseases if kept too wet. Avoid this by giving it excellent air circulation and keeping the soil moist, but not wet. How to Get Popcorn Plants to Bloom Popcorn plants should bloom readily in their proper zone. As a tropical plant, blooms can be severely stunted if the temperatures drop below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. To keep it blooming well, make sure it's inside and protected during the colder months. A popcorn plant that is kept in the garden soil will die back if the winters are too cold and will need to be replaced in the spring. FAQ Where should I place popcorn plants in my house? These are tropical plants, so give them full sun on the hottest windowsill you can find. They also need good air circulation, so a room with a ceiling fan is ideal. Be sure to mist the plant on a regular basis. How long does a popcorn plant live? Though these are often planted as an annual in colder climates, when kept in a tropical climate and given proper care, the popcorn plant can live for up to 10 years. Why did my popcorn plant suddenly turn brown? These plants are very susceptible to frost. If there was a sudden dip in temperature overnight, or the plant was covered in frost, the demise can be surprisingly quick.
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Miss Chen
02月17日
Miss Chen
'Casa Blanca' is a beloved hybrid Oriental lily which is part of the Lilium genus. Its gorgeous flowering bulbs bloom in mid to late summer after the Asiatic lilies, which earlier in the season. Both types of lilies are easy to grow. 'Casa Blanca' has firm leaves with very large and noticeably fragrant flowers. Oriental cultivars like the 'Casa Blanca' thrive in cooler regions, can tolerate poorer soil conditions, and have larger flowers atop exceptionally tall stems that grow three to four feet tall. Each stem produces six to eight blooms. Each "Casa Blanca' flower has six gleaming white petals with reddish-brown anthers. As it blooms, every large eight-inch broad petal curls outwards, beaming beautifully in the summer sun. Very fragrant on strong, dark green stems, they make exceptional fresh cut flowers often used by florists and in bridal bouquets. Hardy in USDA Zones 5 through 8 ( and sometimes even 4 and 9), this bulbous perennial is grown widely and vigorously in containers and in garden beds. Learn to care for the ravishing 'Casa Blanca' Lily and watch it add richness and texture to your landscape, perhaps even in a moon garden. Botanical Name Lilium 'Casa Blanca' Common Name Casa Blanca Lily Plant Type Oriental hybrid lily (bulbous, herbaceous perennial) Mature Size Three to four feet tall, one foot wide Sun Exposure Full sun to light shade Soil Type Organic, well-drained Soil pH Slightly acidic or neutral soil Bloom Time Mid to late summer Flower Color White Hardiness Zones USDA 4-9 Native Area Europe, North America and Asia south to the Philippines Toxicity Toxic to cats Planting Instructions Plant 'Casa Blanca' bulbs in spring in colder zones (zones 4-7) and in the spring or fall in milder climates. Space bulbs ten inches apart and dig planting holes six to eight inches deep. Plant in small groups of three bulbs for a beautiful display. These lilies are easy to grow in a perennial border and grow equally well in containers where they can tolerate crowding. With proper care, 'Casa Blanca' lily bulbs will bloom in their first year. Light This lily prefers full sun but will also grow in part sun to part shade. Ideally, the top of the plant should receive plenty of sunlight, six to eight hours per day, while the lower part is shaded by other lower-growing plants to prevent the bulbs from drying out. Plants might need staking if grown in too much shade, which produces weaker stems. Soil The 'Casa Blanca' lily grows in just about any average, well-drained but moist, garden soil. If soil is heavy and does not drain well, consider planting the bulbs in a raised bed. Mulch the area to keep roots cool and preserve moisture. Water Water plants regularly so that the soil stays moist, and don't let the soil dry out. Do not overwater; these plants do not tolerate boggy conditions. Fertilizer When new growth appears in spring, feed plants with a low-nitrogen, well-balanced 5-10-5 fertilizer. During the growing season, feed plants every two weeks. Temperature If an especially cold winter is expected, dig up the bulbs. Store them indoors and then replant them in spring. Cut Flowers When cutting flowers for bouquets, choose blooms that are just about open, and clip off no more than one-third of the stem. Doing so preserves enough foliage for photosynthesis to continue producing food for the bulb. Snip off the stamens so that the brown pollen does not stain your hands or clothing. Propagating Casa Blanca Lily Every three or four years, blooms will likely become so large that the plants will flop over. As this weakens the stem, stake plants until flowers are finished blooming. Then, in autumn, dig up the bulbs and divide each cluster. Transplant the bulbs and spread a few inches of organic mulch on the area. Common Pests/Diseases Avoid overwatering and creating a boggy condition as this could cause bulbs to rot. Excessively wet weather can also cause gray mold. Like all lilies, beware of aphids spreading the lily mosaic virus, which is not curable. Hand pick lily leaf beetles.
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Miss Chen
02月15日
Miss Chen
Carrots are biennial vegetables, though they are typically harvested in their first year of growth, before they overwinter, and set flowers the following year. Carrot foliage is finely dissected, with fern-like compound leaves. Carrot flowers have five petals and sepals, and are born in compound umbels. Most roots are about 1 inch in diameter and anywhere from one inch to more than 12 inches long. Carrots are best known for long, orange roots, but they actually come in several colors and shapes. Plant in the spring and seeds will germinate in 10 to 21 days. From seed to harvest typically takes 50 to 75 days.
Common Name Carrot Botanical Name Daucus carota Family Apiaceae Plant Type Vegetable Size 6-in. root, 1-ft foliage height; 9-in. spread Sun Exposure Full sun to part shade Soil Type Loose, well-draining soil Soil pH Slightly acidic (6.0–6.8) Bloom Time Spring (second growing season) Hardiness Zones 3–10 (biennial grown as an annual) Native Area Europe, Southwestern Asia How to Plant Carrots When to Plant Carrots grow well in cool weather. You can begin planting carrot seedlings or sowing carrot seeds as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, even two to three weeks before the last frost. You can succession plant carrots every couple of weeks throughout the spring. In warmer climates, you may have better luck growing carrots in the fall, through the winter. Selecting a Site Carrots will do well in a spot that's sunny six to eight hours a day or with a little shade. The soil should be loose, sandy, and well-drained because carrots will mature very slowly with rough roots if they are forced to grow in heavy soil. Growing carrots in raised beds with fluffy soil is the ideal situation. Spacing, Depth, and Support Correctly spacing carrots is most important to harvesting a healthy crop, but it's not always easy and requires plenty of thinning. Plant seeds 1/4 inch below the surface of the soil as evenly as possible 2 to 3 inches apart. Seedlings will be fine if some of them sprout 1/2 inch apart, but as they grow, they typically require about 3 inches of space between them. Snipping or pinching the seedlings off at the soil line is the best way to avoid hurting the remaining roots. Carrots don't need support; But, they don't like to be transplanted or disturbed, either. Carrot Care Light Even though the roots are growing underground, the foliage needs full sun to part shade for the carrot roots to grow quickly and develop their sugars. Soil Carrots need loose, well-draining soil. Rocks and clumps will cause the carrot roots to split and deform. Carrots prefer a slightly acidic soil—in the range of 6.0 to 6.8. Water Water your carrots with at least 1 inch of water every week. Mulching will help conserve water and keep the soil cool. Temperature and Humidity These biennials are typically grown as annuals in all zones and in all climates. However, they grow best and are tastiest when nighttime temperatures average about 55 degrees Fahrenheit and daytime temperatures average 75 degrees Fahrenheit. In warmer climates, carrots are sometimes planted as a late fall and winter crop. Fertilizer If your soil is not rich in organic matter, supplemental feeding will be necessary about two weeks after the carrot tops emerge. Any good vegetable fertilizer will do. Because they are grown for their roots, don't go overboard with nitrogen fertilizer, which mostly aids foliage growth Types of Carrots There is a seemingly endless number of carrot varieties in an array of sizes and colors. Some notable varieties to try include: 'Danver's Half Long': early, sweet, and easy growing 'Imperator': a long variety that keeps its sweetness and crunch in storage 'Little Finger': a sweet three-inch "baby" carrot 'Paris Market'/'Thumbelina': plump, round, and bite-sized Carrots vs. Parsnips Carrots can often be confused with parsnips. That's because not all carrots are orange, and many types of carrots and parsnips are the same color and shape. Carrots and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) also share the same family. The biggest difference between the two is their taste; Carrots are sweet and parsnips have a spicy bite. Often they are both used in the same recipe to bring full flavor to a dish. Harvesting Carrots Growing carrots (Daucus carota)—or any root vegetable, for that matter—can be a bit of a gamble since you can't see how well they're doing until you harvest. When to harvest your carrots will depend on the variety you are growing, but the average is about 50 to 75 days from seed. Use the days to harvest on your seed packet as a guide for knowing when to start picking. Test to see if the tops of your carrot plants have filled out to the expected diameter by feeling just below the soil line. The only true test is to lift one of the carrots and taste it. Don't try and harvest too soon, thinking you will get sweet baby carrots. Small carrots in the store are either a particular variety that matures small or large carrots that have been ground down to baby-size. Immature carrots will be bland because they have not had time to develop their full sweetness. If your soil is very soft, you can twist and pull the carrots from the soil. To be on the safe side, it is wise to loosen the soil slightly before harvesting, making sure not to stab the carrots in the process. Remove the leaves immediately after harvesting. The leaves will continue to take energy and moisture from the roots, leaving them limp, and lessening the sweetness of your carrots. How to Grow Carrots in Pots Carrots require loose well-drained soil. They will fork and deform if they meet with the slightest resistance, such as a rock or hard soil in the garden. If you can't provide loose soil in your vegetable garden, consider growing carrots in a container using potting soil premixed especially for potted vegetables. The shorter finger-types or small round carrots, like 'Paris Market', or other types with roots that grow and mature to 2 to 3 inches long, are ideal for containers. Make sure your container (any material is fine) is at least 12 to 24 inches in diameter, at least 12 inches deep, and with plenty of drainage holes. Container carrots will require more water than crops in the ground; Water the container deeply once a week. Pruning To prevent deformed roots, keep the area free of weeds as the carrots are growing. If you need to thin again later, you can use the tiny carrots in salads. When you've finished thinning, your carrots should be far enough apart that they won't rub shoulders when mature. How to Plant Carrots From Seed Carrots can be planted from nursery-grown seedlings, but the more common method is to plant seeds directly into the garden, beginning as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. But, carrot seeds are tiny, making it difficult to plant them evenly. They may take as long as three weeks to sprout.
Till the soil at least a foot deep to make sure it is light and can drain extremely well. Sprinkle the seeds in a row 2 to 3 inches apart, 1/4 inch deep, and keep rows a foot apart from each other. It's tough to space carrot seeds evenly, so you will likely need to thin them out as they grow. Give seeds 1 inch of water a week. When the seedlings are 1 to 2 inches tall, make sure they are thinned out to a spacing of 3 inches apart. Overwintering You can leave carrot plants in place over the winter. Make sure you thoroughly weed the area before the first frost. Heavily mulch the area with about 3 inches of straw or leaves. The carrot tops will die but the roots will continue gathering their sugar to survive the cold weather. Even if left in the ground into winter, the roots can still be quite delicious. Harvest these carrots before the early spring arrives or they will flower. Common Pests and Plant Diseases The biggest pest is the carrot rust fly. It lays its eggs in the soil near the carrot top. When the eggs hatch, the larvae work their way down into the soil and then into the carrot's roots, where they feed and create tunnels through the carrot. Carrot weevils can do similar damage. You can foil some pests by rotating where you plant each year, but the easiest method is to grow your carrots under row covers (garden fabric). Nematodes, microscopic worms, can become a problem later in the season, causing badly deformed roots. Heating the soil through solarization can kill nematodes. If you are struggling with carrot nematodes in a particular spot, rotate to another crop and plant carrots elsewhere. Even if they don't notice the roots growing below the soil surface, there are plenty of animals that will want to eat the tops of your carrots and a few that will dig deeper. Deer, groundhogs, rabbits, opossum, and several others will need to be kept out of the garden—fencing is really the only effective method. A handful of leaf spot and bacterial diseases can affect carrots, like Alternaria leaf blight, carrot yellows, and bacterial soft rot. There is not much you can do once the plants are infected. Keep a close watch and remove any plants showing signs of disease. Clean up all debris at the end of the season and move your carrots to a different section of the garden next year, as the microorganisms can persist in the soil.
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Miss Chen
02月13日
Miss Chen
Huernia zebrina, commonly referred to as owl eye succulents, are a species of succulents native to South Africa that are known for their distinctive other-worldly blooms. They are characterized by 4-sided stems with soft teeth along the edges, and yellow and red 5-pointed, star-shaped flowers. Owl eye succulents are not large succulents, growing to only six to eight inches tall. They grow well indoors as houseplants since they generally require warm temperatures in order to thrive. Plus, if you frequently forget to water your houseplants - this is the succulent for you! They thrive on minimal moisture and can survive for several weeks at a time without water if needed. Botanical Name Huernia zebrina Common Name Owl eyes succulent, little owl eyes, lifesaver cactus, lifesaver plant, carrion flower, zebra-striped Huernia Plant Type Succulent Mature Size 6" spread, 6-8" in height Sun Exposure Bright light - partial shade Soil Type Well-draining Soil pH 6 Bloom Time Summer Flower Color Yellow, red, purple, white Native Area South Africa How to Grow Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents Not only are owl eyes succulents eye-catching, but they are easy to grow too. They can be characterized as having low water needs, and don’t require as much light as other succulents do. Generally, they don’t require pruning either, unless you are hoping to shape the plant or reduce its size. If you do prune an owl eyes succulent make sure to keep the cuttings - these can be used for propagation later on! For those looking to grow this plant indoors, it is important to know that some varieties can exude a pungent smell similar to that of carrion to attract flies and encourage pollination. However, not all varieties have this characteristic.
Light Unlike most succulents, Huernia zebrina does not tolerate hot, direct sun. Plants that receive too much light will turn red or purple, rather than deep green. In their natural habitat owl eyes, succulents grow beneath shrubs or other plants so they prefer bright light to partial shade conditions. Water Owl eyes succulents are sensitive to overwatering and can easily develop root rot. As a result, the roots should be allowed to dry out completely between waterings. In the active growing season (spring and summer) owl eyes succulents will need more water than in the dormant season (fall and winter). Soil In their natural habitat, owl eyes succulents grow in open dry shrubland and stony areas. The soil is often calcrete or loamy Consequently, owl eyes succulents require a potting mix with excellent drainage to help mimic their natural environment. A mixture of 50 percent pumice or perlite, 25 percent peat or organic mulch, and 25% sand is perfect for Huernia zebrina and will help to prevent root rot. Temperature and Humidity Owl eyes succulents need warm temperatures. They do best between 50 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit (10 to 27 degrees Celsius) and should be protected from cold or freezing temperatures. Place owl eyes succulents outdoors during the summer for best growth, but ensure to bring them back indoors before the temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit (10 degrees Celsius). Fertilizer As with most succulents, owl eyes succulents don’t require frequent fertilization. However, they can benefit from monthly fertilization throughout the growing season. Use a balanced liquid plant food or succulent fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15, once per month diluted to half strength. Stop fertilizing before the end of the summer to ensure that new growth is not developing as the plant goes into dormancy. Potting and Repotting The roots of owl eyes succulents experience dieback in their cool-seasoned dormant, so they do best in shallow containers that allow the soil to dry out completely. Bonsai planters, for example, are great for Heurnia zebrina. Otherwise, using unglazed clay or terracotta pots for owl eyes succulents is recommended as they will help to keep the soil dry. Propagating Owl Eyes (Huernia zebrina) Succulents Owl eyes succulents can be propagated by cuttings easily. Take cuttings of the stems and set them aside for 24 hours to allow the ends to callous over. Plant the calloused end of the cutting in a well-draining potting mix and place the pot in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Do not water the new plant until small roots begin to form, approximately two and three weeks. Common Pests/Diseases Owl eyes succulents are susceptible to common houseplant pests such as spider mites, thrips, and aphids. Unfortunately, Huernia zebrina is especially attractive to mealy bugs. Treat infested succulents by rubbing the plant with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove the bugs.
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Miss Chen
02月11日
Miss Chen
Carnations, known as dianthus (Dianthus caryophyllus), are a perennial grown widely for use as cut flowers. Who among us hasn't been gifted with a carnation corsage, boutonniere, or bouquet? Carnations are a variety of dianthus, also known as pinks, because their natural color range includes many shades of pink, white, coral, and red. White carnations are frequently dyed various colors for holidays (like green for Saint Patrick's Day or pastel colors for Easter). True carnations have a ruffly appearance that holds its own in flower arrangements, and they have a distinctive, spicy, faintly clove-like scent loved by many. The dianthus has been widely cultivated for more than two thousand years, based on its mention in ancient Greek texts. Pinning down its native locale is difficult, but some botanists theorize it originated somewhere in the Mediterranean. Dianthus translates from the Greek for "divine flower," while "carnation" is a Latin word meaning "crown" or "garland." Botanical Name Dianthus caryophyllus Common Name Carnation, pinks Plant Type Flowering perennial Mature Size 12-18 inches Sun Exposure Full sun to partial shade Soil Type Alkaline, fertile, well drained Soil pH 7-8 Bloom Time late spring; reblooms Flower Color white, pink, red Hardiness Zones USDA 7-10 Native Areas Italy, Spain, Greece, Croatia Carnation Care Dianthus are fairly easy to grow and care for. Dianthus carophyllus does best in USDA hardiness Zones 7 to 10, so it is not quite as cold hardy as other dianthus varieties. Although dianthus are sometimes known as a short-lived perennial, if they have the right conditions, you can expect years of beauty and fragrance from them. They're a beautiful choice for the cottage garden with their vibrant colors and easy seasonal care. Deadheading them after first bloom helps insure re-blooming later in the season. They do best without mulch, but if you do mulch use a natural mulch instead of dyed mulches. Carnations, like all dianthus, are deer resistant, but rabbits may enjoy nibbling on the leaves.
Soil Carnations require excellent drainage and an alkaline soil, also referred to as "sweet" soil. Alkaline soil tends to have slightly higher concentrations of calcium, magnesium, and sodium. If your soil tends to be acidic, adding a bit of lime when planting carnations will get them off to a good start. Light Although they do best in full sun, carnations are fine with some partial shade. Too much bright afternoon sun might cause the petals of brightly colored carnations to fade. Plant your carnations where they'll get morning sun rather than afternoon sun, if possible, to keep the flowers looking fresh and the colors bright. Water Dianthus carophyllus are relatively drought tolerant but they need regular water in spring when their flower buds are forming. During dry spells in summer they may need an extra drink of water. Water at the base of the plant. However, be careful not to over water, or the leaves may yellow and the flower petals may droop or fall off. Temperature and Humidity Carnations like a warm environment, but will wilt in extreme heat. They do best in low humidity. However, an occasional light spritz of cool water during very hot weather may help cool them down a bit. In cats, carnation leaves can be a source of mild toxicity if ingested, causing vomiting and/or diarrhea. Depending on how much of the plant your cat has ingested, they may vomit more than once. Symptoms following vomiting may include mild dehydration or loss of appetite; these should resolve within a few hours. Make sure there is fresh water available. Carnations also contain compounds that can cause mild skin irritation, which may cause redness or swelling around the mouth area if your cat eats them. If more serious symptoms are present, or your cat is not on the mend after 8 hours, consult your veterinarian. In dogs, poisoning from carnations presents as dermatitis and digestive problems.
Carnation Varieties There are three basic types of carnation available to the home grower: large-flowered carnations (also known as standard carnations), dwarf-flowered carnations, and spray or miniature carnations. The following cultivars are a very small sample of the thousands of varieties available. Chabaud carnations: these large standard carnations come in a variety of cultivars including "Jeanne Dionis" (white), "Benigna" (picotee white edged with magenta), "Aurora" (range of medium to dark pink), "Orange Sherbet" (warm, deep coral), and "La France" (classic pale pink) Spray carnation cultivars include "Elegance" (white edged pink), "Exquisite" (white edged purple), and "Rony" (scarlet red). Some excellent smaller varieties with full double-petaled flowers include "Appleblossom Burst" (shades of pink with deep red centers), "Double Bubble" (bright bubble gum pink), "Grace Bay" (founded cream flower heads edged in magenta) and "Rosy Cheeks" (medium pink with orange centers). How to Grow Carnations from Seed If you want to plant carnations from seed, be sure to select cultivars suitable for your growing zone. You can start them indoors in a sunny window, six to eight weeks before the last frost date for your area. Plant them in potting soil, sprinkling seeds over the surface, and covering very lightly with soil. Keep them moist with a mist sprayer, and wrap the planting container loosely with plastic to create a greenhouse effect. Seedlings should germinate within three days. Once they form two or three leaves, put them in their own containers, and let them get at least four to five inches tall before transplanting outside, once frost danger has passed. You may also sow carnations outdoors after frost season has ended, but it's unlikely they will bloom that first year. Do this only if your growing zone is at least USDA 6, to be sure they will survive the winter as a perennial.
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Miss Chen
02月08日
Miss Chen
Cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) is a native plant of North, South, and Central America, normally found in moist areas such as streams, swamps, and low wooded areas. It is a clump-forming perennial with lance-shaped dark green leaves that form basal clumps and tall flower stalks that hold clusters of tubular flowers from July into early fall. The native species has scarlet red flowers, but there are also cultivars with white, blue, purple, and rose-pink flowers. These are all excellent landscape plants for garden areas with wet soil. Cardinal flower is normally planted from potted nursery starts in the spring, or by seeds sown in fall or spring. It is a fairly fast-growing plant that usually flowers in its first year. Individual plants are short-lived, but cardinal flower perpetuates itself constantly by sending out offshoots that quickly colonize an area. As is true of other species in the Lobelia genus, cardinal flower is seriously toxic to humans and to pets. The plant contains several toxic alkaloid compounds, including lobelamine and loeline, which can cause a variety of symptoms, ranging from digestive upset to convulsions and even death. Common Name Cardinal flower Botanical Name Lobelia cardinalis Family Campanulaceae (Bellflower) Plant Type Herbaceous perennial Mature Size 2-4 ft. tall; 1-2 ft. wide Sun Exposure Full to partial Soil Type Moist Soil pH Slightly acidic to neutral Bloom Time Summer to early fall Flower Color Red, pink, white, blue, purple Hardiness Zones 3-9 (USDA) Native Area The United States and Canada Toxicity Toxic to humans and pets Cardinal Flower Care Cardinal flowers are easy to grow in any moist area that receives full or partial sunlight. Because the cardinal flower is naturally found in wet areas, keeping the soil evenly moist is key to its health. Individual plants rarely last more than a few years, but colonies can continue on for many years through offsets and self-seeding. Allowing your cardinal flowers to reseed themselves is ideal. This ensures that they will continue to come back every year, full and beautiful. Dividing your plants every two to three years will also help prolong life and create more plants. Cardinal flower is uniquely free of common pests and diseases, but the basal foliage is sometimes targeted by snails and slugs. Light In colder areas, cardinal flowers appreciate full sunshine. In hotter climates, it will do best with afternoon shade to provide shelter from the intense heat. Soil The cardinal flower loves rich, moist-to-wet soil that often causes other plants to collapse with rot, but it struggles in dry, barren soils. To help retain soil moisture, try adding a layer of mulch around your plants. Amending soil with heavy amounts of compost or peat moss can also improve soil moisture levels. Water This plant appreciates plenty of water. Cardinal flower can even tolerate prolonged seasonal flooding. Be sure to maintain a consistent watering schedule that keeps the soil evenly moist. Heavy twice-a-week watering may be necessary during hot months if no rain is falling. Temperature and Humidity Cardinal flower can routinely handle the wide range of temperatures across USDA zones 3 to 9. It is known to survive down to minus 34 degrees Fahrenheit, and some zone 2 gardeners have grown it successfully. The named cultivars and hybrids, however, may be somewhat less cold-hardy than the native species plant. Since cardinal flowers love moisture, higher humidity levels are ideal; these plants aren't well suited for arid climates.
Fertilizer Cardinal flowers generally do not require fertilizer throughout the year. Adding compost and organic material in the late winter or early spring will provide the necessary nutrients for the growing season ahead. This one-time application is generally sufficient for healthy growth. Types of Cardinal Flower In addition to the native species, Lobelia cardinalis, there are several cultivars that have been developed to expand the range of flower colors: 'Queen Victoria' features the plant's trademark vivid red flowers on burgundy stems. 'Black Truffle' also has crimson flowers, but very dark purple foliage that is nearly black. 'Rosea' features pink flowers. 'Alba' Is topped with white flowers. 'Angel Song' is filled with cream- and salmon-colored flowers. There are also a couple of hybrids to consider: Lobelia x speciosa 'Vadrariensis' has dark violet flowers. It grows to 4 feet tall. Lobelia x speciosa 'Star Ship Deep Rose' is a 24-inch-tall plant with deep pink flowers. Pruning You may want to remove spent flower spikes to keep your plant looking clean and to encourage further blooming. Just keep in mind that this may not allow the plant to self-seed, which could impact next year's colony. If you find your plant getting a bit unruly during its growing season, feel free to trim it back to help maintain a bushier, less leggy look. Propagating Cardinal Flowers Cardinal flowers can be propagated by seed, division, or by transplanting young plants that develop around the mature plant. Here's how to propagate by division: In the spring or fall, carefully dig up entire colony. Divide the root clumps into individual sections, each containing a healthy network of roots and a piece of the crown. Plant each division in the desired location. If re-establishing a colony, plant the pieces about 1 foot apart. If you would like to remove young volunteer plants that have formed around your mature plant by self-seeding, simply dig them up in the fall and place them wherever you like. How to Grow Cardinal Flowers From Seed To propagate by seed, you have a couple of options. These plants easily self-seed, so you can simply leave the seed pods on the plant and allow them to fall naturally. Another option is to collect the seeds, sowing them around the plant when they are ripe If you would like to collect seeds to start indoors, here’s how: Once the seeds pods begin to open, pick them off the plant and collect the seeds. They can be replanted immediately in the garden, if you so choose, or stored in the refrigerator to plant in the spring. If you plan to start seeds indoors. give them several weeks in the refrigerator to provide the necessary cold stratification. Six to eight weeks before the last spring frost, sow the seeds on the surface of pots filled with moist potting soil, Do not cover the seeds as they need light to germinate. Place the pots in a bright location at about 70 degrees Fahrenheit, Keep the soil moist as the seedlings sprout and develop. Move the pots into direct sunlight to continue growing. After the last threat of frost, you can plant the seedlings in the garden. Potting and Repotting Cardinal Flower Cardinal flower is not a common choice for planting in pots and other containers, but it can be done. Use a large, well-draining pot filled with ordinary commercial potting mix. These moisture-loving plants will require frequent watering when grown in containers. These are not plants that can be moved indoors to grow as houseplants for the winter. Instead, move the potted plants to a sheltered location out of the wind for the winter months. Overwintering In most regions, cardinal flower requires no special preparation or protection, other then cutting the stalks down to ground level. This will keep things tidy for when new stalks emerge from the roots in spring. In regions where their hardiness is borderline (zone 3), a layer of mulch over the root crowns will moderate freeze-thaw cycles over the winter and ensure the plants return the following spring. These plants can survive extremely low winter temps but frequent thaw-refreeze cycles may cause them to perish. Common Pests and Plant Diseases The cardinal flower is a very hardy plant troubled by very few pests or diseases. The most common pests are snails and slugs, so take protective measures against them if they show up.
Fungal infections such as rust and leaf spots may arise if the plants are crowded and if airflow around them isn't good. Fungicides can usually treat the problem, but you can also simply cut the plants down to the ground and allow them to grow back fungus-free. Make sure to keep neighboring plants cut back so that the cardinal flowers have room to breathe. Common Problems With Cardinal Flower Like many native wildflower species, cardinal flowers are pretty fuss-free plants. The common complaints are fairly easy to address: Yellowing Leaves If you find that the leaves of cardinal flowers are turning yellow, it might indicate nutrient-deficient soil. A rich compost applied around the base of the plants can help. Toppling Flower Stalks When cardinal flower grows in shady conditions, the stalks may become overly leggy as they reach for the sun. In some cases, you may need to use stakes or hoops to support the flower stalks against the wind. Clumps Become Sparse Cardinal flower is a fairly short-lived plant that dies back after flowering, though a colony will continue to sustain itself by the offshoots that are created. But an older clump may spread out and become sparse. The solution is to dig up the plant, divide the crown, and replant the pieces with closer spacing.
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Miss Chen
02月06日
Miss Chen
Cardinal climber Ipomoea × multifida) is one of those plants that fully lives up to its name. The blossoms of this hybrid plant are a true cardinal red, and the vine reaches for whatever it can grab. This is a very graceful, airy annual vine, related to morning glory (one of the parent plants of this hybrid). It blooms profusely throughout the summer and the red, trumpet-shaped flowers are big favorites of hummingbirds and other pollinators. The bright green leaves are triangular, with deep, narrow lobes that give them a lacy appearance resembling that of small palm leaves. The tubular flowers are red, with white or yellow throats. Five petals overlap to form a swept-back pentagon at the opening. Cardinal climber is often planted near a trellis or other structure that it can climb; it can also be used as a dense ground-cover. The delicate, lacy leaves form a peek-a-boo screen rather than blocking the view entirely. This makes them great for training over an arbor or trellis. They are also a good choice for softening a wall and adding an airy feeling. Cardinal climber can also be grown in containers. Add support in the container for even more height. They look wonderful growing around an obelisk, in the center of other flowers.
Botanical Name Ipomoea × multifida Common Name Cardinal climber Plant Type Annual flowering vine Mature Size 6 to 12 feet tall, 9- to 12-inch spread Sun Exposure Full sun; will tolerate some shade Soil Type Any well-drained soil Soil pH 6.0 to 7.2; prefers a fairly neutral pH Bloom Time Midsummer until frost Flower Color Red, with yellow or white throats Hardiness Zones None; this plant is a true annual Native Area None; this plant is a cultivated hybrid Toxicity Toxic to pets How to Grow Cardinal Climber Plant cardinal climber in any well-drained soil, in a full-sun location. It requires regular water but does not need to be fertilized unless the soil is poor. It is often planted from potted seedlings, but it can also be seeded directly into the soil, covering the seeds 1/4 inch deep. Space plants 6 to 12 inches apart. Growing From Seeds You can sow seeds directly into the garden after danger of frost has passed, to a depth of 1/4 inch. Or, they can be started indoors 4 to 6 weeks before the last frost of the winter/spring. The seeds have a hard shell and germinate best if some type of scarification is done before planting. The easiest method is to soak them overnight. If you're really ambitious, you can rub them gently with some sandpaper and then soak them overnight. Seeds should germinate within 10 days. Give the young plants a regular weekly watering of at least 1 to 2 inches while getting established. Light Cardinal climber prefers full sun but will tolerate part shade. Soil This plant does well in any well-drained soil; it prefers a neutral pH.
Water Cardinal climber will tolerate dry soil, but its parent species are tropical plants, and it grows best if kept moist. Make sure it gets at least 1 inch of water each week, either through rainfall or irrigation. Cardinal climber doesn't like prolonged periods of dryness. Temperature and Humidity This plant-like hot, humid weather for best growth; cool weather will cause it to grow slowly. Fertilizer This plant rarely needs feeding, unless the soil is very poor. Propagation of Cardinal Climber This is a hybrid that grows true from its seeds. You can allow the seed pods to dry on the plants and then collect the seeds to plant the following year. Comparison With Cypress Vine and Morning Glory Cardinal flower is a hybrid of cypress vine (Ipomoea quamoclit) and red morning glory (Ipomoea coccinea) and is sometimes confused with those plants since it shares characteristics of both. However, its leaves are distinctly different than the fine, feathery leaves of cypress vine and the heart-shaped leaves of morning glory. Common Pests/ Diseases In warmer climates, all members of the morning glory family (Ipomoea) can become aggressive self-seeders. So far, only the Arizona Department of Agriculture has banned their sale. Cardinal climber is virtually pest-free. If the vines get too thick, they may attract whitefly. Insecticidal soap should control the problem.
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