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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
There are approximately 4,000 aphid species found throughout the world. Low to moderate numbers are usually not harmful to plants and rarely require aphid control. However, heavy infestations will cause leaves to curl, wilt or yellow and stunted plant growth. A general decline in overall plant vigor will also be noticed. Several species can transmit plant diseases, particularly viruses which they pass on during feeding.
Aphids are small (1/8 inch long), soft bodied, pear-shaped insects that may be green, yellow, brown, red or black in color depending on species and food source. Generally adults are wingless, but some can grow wings, especially if populations are high. They have two whip-like antennae at the tip of the head and a pair of tube-like structures, called cornicles, projecting backward out of their hind end. Note: As they feed, aphids secrete large amounts of a sticky fluid known as honeydew. This sweet goo drips onto plants, attracting ants and promoting a black sooty mold growth on leaves. Cars and lawn furniture that are under infested trees will also be covered with this sticky fluid.
Life Cycle In spring wingless female aphids hatch from overwintering eggs and soon give birth to many nymphs (males are not present). Young nymphs increase gradually in size and within a week give birth to many more nymphs. This process is repeated several times and results in huge population explosions. As the colony grows, a few of the females develop wings and fly off to other host plants to start new colonies. In late summer and early fall sexual forms (males and females) develop which mate and lay overwintering eggs. There are many overlapping generations per year. Note: Most aphids, except for the sexual forms, do not have to mate in order to reproduce, and they produce live young, rather than eggs. Control
Pinch or prune off heavily infested leaves or other plant parts. Use the Bug Blaster to hose off plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers. Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs and lacewing are important natural predators. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control.
Apply food-grade Diatomaceous Earth for long-lasting protection. Made up of tiny fossilized aquatic organisms, that look like broken glass under the microscope, DE kills by scoring an insect’s outer layer as it crawls over the fine powder. Contains NO toxic poisons! Safer® Soap will work fast on heavy infestations. A short-lived natural pesticide, it works by damaging the outer layer of soft-bodied insect pests, causing dehydration and death within hours. Apply 2.5 oz/ gallon of water when insects are present, repeat every 7-10 day as needed. Horticultural oils should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Fast-acting botanical insecticides should be used as a last resort. Derived from plants which have insecticidal properties, these natural pesticides have fewer harmful side effects than synthetic chemicals and break down more quickly in the environment. Do not over water or over fertilize – aphids like plants with high nitrogen levels and soft new growth. Use organic fertilizers which release nutrients slowly. Tip: Ants feed on the honeydew that sucking insects produce and will protect these pests from their natural enemies. An application of Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to the stalks of roses and other woody plants will help keep ants away.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Common in and around the home, ants range in size from about 1/32 to 3/4 inch long. They have three body parts (head, thorax and abdomen) and can be anywhere from a yellowish-red in color to black. Most ants are wingless, but winged forms exist during “swarming” or colony reproduction. As a group, ants are important natural predators of many insect pests including flea and fly larvae, caterpillars and termites. However, there are times when it may be necessary to control ants especially when they enter our homes in search of food. Some ant species become problems in lawns and gardens when they build large unsightly mounds or protect aphids, mealybugs, scales and other insect pests from their natural enemies. Ants can also damage plants by tunneling around the roots causing them to dry out.
Tip: Look closely to determine if what you see is an ant or a termite. Ants have narrow waists and bent antennae. Termites have thick waists and straight antennae. Life Cycle All ants are social insects and live in colonies with three distinct types of adults called castes. Queens are larger than other ants and are responsible for egg laying. Some species have only one queen per colony whereas others have many. Males are responsible for mating with the queens; they do not participate in any other activities. Workers are sterile wingless females. They make up the bulk of the colony and are responsible for building and defending the nest, caring for the young and foraging for food.
New ant colonies are established by a single fertilized queen that lays hundreds of eggs. After about 30 days the eggs hatch into legless larvae that do not resemble adults. The queen cares for the “maggot-like” larvae until they pupate approximately 1-2 months later. Within three weeks the pupae transform into adult “worker” ants, which begin collecting food for themselves, the queen and for future generations of larvae. Eggs are laid continuously throughout the spring, summer and fall. Colonies overwinter in the soil, woody areas or in garden trash. Note: Ants have pincer-like jaws and can bite although most do not. A few species are very aggressive and will inflict a painful sting. Here’s how to get rid of ants without harming your family, pets or the environment.
Control Like all pests, ants require food and water to survive; by eliminating these basic necessities you can greatly reduce their numbers. Store food and organic wastes in sealed containers, clean up all kitchen surfaces and empty trash daily. Caulk cracks and crevices around foundations and apply Don’t Bug Me Spray to door and window jams to prevent entry from outside. Where pipes and electrical wires enter the house spread Tanglefoot Pest Barrier to keep crawling pests outside. Diatomaceous earth contains no toxic poisons and works quickly on contact. Dust lightly and evenly around areas where pest insects are found. Apply Organic Insect Killer Granules around foundations, lawns and landscaped areas to eliminate or repel all kinds of crawling insects. Dust Boric Acid lightly into cracks, crevices, wall voids and other insect hiding places. This fine powder clings to the legs, antennae and bodies of crawling insects and acts as a stomach poison when consumed during grooming.
Spray Orange Guard, made from citrus peel extract, to kill on contact. Approved for organic use, Orange Guard is a broad spectrum insect killer that’s safe to use indoors and out. Repeat applications may be necessary. Safer Ant & Roach Killer is the first effective, truly organic aerosol that kills crawling insects in seconds. Best of all, it has a fresh citrus scent, so there is no chemical odor!
Tip: The best way to keep ants from coming indoors is to locate the mound and destroy the colony. While this is not always an easy task sometimes a chunk of jelly placed where ants are found will help. As the workers are attracted to the food source pay close attention as they carry it back to their nest. Set pre-filled outdoor bait stations where you find ant mounds or their trails. Botanical pesticides applied directly to the soil will also destroy existing mounds.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Nature’s most industrious pollinator, the bumblebee (Bombus impatiens) facilitates the fruiting of a number of vegetables and tree fruits. Intensive bee pollination of this kind results in greater yields of everything from tomatoes and peppers to strawberries and cherries. In this sense, bumblebees helps feed the world.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including bumble bees, at Planet Natural. One garden hive — 45 to 60 workers — covers up to 5,000 square feet and costs $159.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Bumble bees carry large pollen baskets on their hind legs. Pollen will also cling to their hairy abdomens to be deposited during their successive visits from blossom to blossom before returning to their hives. Hives are a place of communal activity where the gathered pollen is converted to food, offspring are fed, and the hive itself enlarged as food sources increase during the flowering season. It’s well know that these pollinators, like other social fauna, will defend their home from intruders. They also keep it cool during hot weather by aligning themselves in staggered lines and using their wings to fan the hive. Bumblebees are among nature’s most fascinating — and necessary — creatures.
HOW TO RELEASE: Place the hive 1-3 feet above the ground, in a protected area. Do NOT place the hive in the foliage! After placement, let the hive calm down for about 1 hour before opening the flight hole. Whenever possible, open flight hole when ventilation windows are closed (early evening) to prevent loss of workers.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Parasitic nematodes seek out insects harmful to garden plants, shrubs and trees in their soil-borne stages and destroy them from the inside out. Present in soils throughout the world, these microscopic, non-segmented worms destroy over 200 types of insects that mature in the ground including weevils, Japanese beetles, fleas, borers and fungus gnats, before they reach adult stages.
Shop our large selection of biological controls, including beneficial nematodes, at Planet Natural. One pint — 10 million active units — treats up to 550 square feet and costs $29.95 with FedEx 2-Day shipping included! When released into the soil, nematodes seek out the larvae and pupae of susceptible pests by sensing the heat and carbon dioxide they generate. They enter pests through various orifices or directly through the “skin.” Once inside the host, they release a bacterium that kills it within a day or two. They will continue to feed on the remains, multiplying as they do, before exhausting it and leaving to seek another food source.
Nematodes do not prey on lady bugs, earthworms or most other beneficial insects. They are harmless to plants and humans as is the bacterium they produce. Evidence of the nematodes effectiveness, other than reduced pest populations, is difficult to spot as these microscopic creatures consume their hosts in the soil, leaving little trace behind. They’re appropriate for use on lawns, in gardens and around trees and shrubs. They need generally moist condition to facilitate their movement.
HOW TO RELEASE: Simply scatter over the infested area, then water. Optimally, nematodes should be applied at sunset to protect them against sunlight. To control boring insects, prepare a water suspension, then inject or spray the solution into the burrows. Repeat weekly for a minimum of three weeks.
Note: Scanmask®, a product based on a selected strain of Steinernema feltiae, will provide insect control in an area from 250 to 550 square feet. This refers to the area actually at risk or already infested by insects. Since infestations are rarely uniform, nematodes should be used as a “directed control measure” on areas already or at risk of being infested.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
In its larval stages, Aphidoletes aphidimyza is a voracious aphid killer. The more aphids present, the more it will consume. Also known as the gall midge, it’s known to feed on some 60 types of aphids. It’s a popular means of aphid control in greenhouses.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including aphid predators, at Planet Natural. One bottle — 2,000 gall midges — treats up to 10,000 square feet and costs $134.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Basically night feeders, the larvae hide on the undersides of leaves during the day. In its adult midge stage, the delicate fly feeds on aphid honey dew and deposits eggs in aphid colonies. The larvae take two-three days to hatch and go through three stages over two weeks, feeding on aphids as they go. The predator spends its pupal stage in the ground. The adult emerges in one to two weeks to lay more eggs among the remaining aphids.
HOW TO RELEASE: Gently turn and shake the bottle to mix the contents. Place the bottle on the soil or hang in between plants. To protect against ants do not scatter the contents. Repeat weekly for a minimum of three weeks.
Note: Each 100 ml bottle contains black pupae mixed with vermiculite, from which 2,000 gall-midges hatch.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Effective biological control for aphids! This tiny parasitic wasp (Aphidius colemani ) hones in on its prey by sensing the distress signals of infested plants as well as detecting the aphid’s honeydew secretions. Once there, it injects an egg into the aphid. When the egg hatches, the larvae begin to consume the pest from inside. The resulting wasp then emerges from the rear of the dead aphid to seek out other prey. Surviving aphids react by emitting an “alarm” pheromone which causes the colony to flee, often falling to the ground where they die.
Shop our large selection of beneficial insects, including aphid parasites, at Planet Natural. One bottle — 1,000 parasitic wasps — treats up to 7,000 square feet and costs $94.95 with UPS Express shipping included!
Appropriate for garden and greenhouse use, aphid parasites can be used both as a preventive measure and to combat infestations. Adult wasps live two to three weeks and will lay eggs in as many as 300 aphids over the period of their lives, increasing the numbers of wasps as they do. Proof they’re at work can be found by searching for the brown, mummified shells left of dead aphids. HOW TO RELEASE: Spread the material evenly over soil or rockwool slabs.
Efficacy is reduced at high temperatures, greater than 80˚F. Repeat weekly for 2-3 weeks, as needed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Taxonomy and Botany of Virginia Creeper Plant taxonomy classifies Virginia creeper (or "woodbine") as Parthenocissus quinquefolia. Engleman's ivy (Parthenocissus quinquefolia 'engelmannii') is an example of a cultivar (sometimes given as 'engelmanii'). Another is 'Red Wall', but its fall foliage color can be disappointing. Parthenocissus quinquefolia is considered by botanists to be a deciduous, woody vine.
Plant Characteristics, Outstanding Feature Grasping for support with its tendrils, Parthenocissus quinquefolia can climb as high as 50 feet. Its leaves, comprised of five leaflets, morph from their summer green into a fall foliage color ranging from reddish-orange to burgundy. This spectacular change occurring in autumn earns the plant a spot on my list of the top shrubs and vines for fall color. The flowers are not much to look at, but Virginia creeper berries are a pleasing dark blue. No doubt, its fall foliage color is the outstanding feature of the vine. Along with sumac shrub, another native in my region (New England, United States), Parthenocissus quinquefolia is one of the unsung heroes of the fall foliage season.
Name Origins: Virgins and Misnomers Parthenocissus is a backward translation (and a rather lame one, frankly) from the English, with a healthy dose of poetic license. Partheno- means "virgin" (as in "Virginia") and cissus translates as "ivy." Virginia creeper is, indeed, native to Virginia but is not a true ivy, so this part of the botanical name is misleading. Meanwhile, the species name, quinquefolia, refers to the five leaflets of which each of the leaves is comprised. The second part of the common name is also misleading, in that the vine is a climber, not a creeping vine. This misnomer is the reason why it makes my list of ten plant names confusing to beginners.
USDA Plant Hardiness Zones, Sun and Soil Requirements for Virginia Creeper Parthenocissus quinquefolia is indigenous to eastern North America and can be grown in planting zones 3-9. Although tolerant of shade, the vines are more likely to achieve optimal autumn color if grown in full sun to part shade. Grow it in a well-drained soil. Killing Virginia Creeper Some folks dislike its aggressive growth habits and are intent on killing Virginia creeper. Since it grows so high, it is impractical to try killing Virginia creeper (a mature plant, that is) by spraying its leaves. Instead, cut the vine's trunk (near ground level), then apply the strongest concentrate of glyphosate (Roundup) you can buy to the fresh wound. An organic method of killing Virginia creeper is to dig it out, but this is easier said than done, as the plant spreads via rhizomes.
Is Virginia Creeper Poisonous? Since Virginia creeper is one of the plants mistaken for poison ivy, many people wonder if it is "poisonous" in the sense that poison ivy is poisonous. Reader, Paula Brooks has informed me that the sap flowing through Virginia creeper vines does contain oxalate crystals, which -- for a small portion of the population -- can irritate the skin. So you could get a nasty skin rash from brushing up against the plant, even though it is perhaps unlikely for the average person. Nor should you eat Virginia creeper berries.
Warnings, Uses in the Yard If you live in eastern North America, you probably do not need to grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia in your yard, because chances are good that it is growing nearby anyway, perhaps along a road you drive every day (where you can get your fill of it). But if you live somewhere where Parthenocissus quinquefolia is not a native plant, perhaps you have considered growing it (many have). If so, keep some warnings about this vine in mind: Virginia creeper is a vigorous grower and may get out of hand if not kept in check with equal vigor. Therefore, it would not be a good plant choice for you if you seek low-maintenance landscaping. Sticky, disk-like appendages on its tendrils adhere to wall siding, making it difficult to remove. Removal could, in fact, cause damage to the wall. So do not grow this plant on walls unless you wish it to be permanent!
Virginia creeper will climb trees and cast shade on their leaves, thus depriving them of needed sunlight. Do not allow it to grow on specimen trees! But this plant does have viable uses in the landscape, and here are some possible solutions to the above problems (in order), should you wish to grow it in your landscaping: Grow Engleman's ivy; this cultivar is considered less vigorous. If you want the look of a wall covered with Virginia creeper, but without the risk, install a sturdy trellis near the wall and grow Parthenocissus quinquefolia on the trellis (keeping it well trimmed). Do not allow Virginia creeper to grow on specimen trees! Instead, grow it on garden arbors, on pergolas, or on fences.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Downy Mildew on Impatiens There's been an increase in downy mildew affecting Impatiens plants recently. The particular mildew affecting impatiens is Plasmopara abducens. It spreads rapidly, under the right conditions, and once infected, there is no cure. However, there are some preventative measures you can take. But first, here's some background to help you understand the disease.
What is Downy Mildew? Downy mildew diseases are caused by oomycetes or water molds. They are fungus-like, but more closely related to algae. There are 2 types of downy mildew spores. One type, zoospores, can be splashed up by water or spread by the wind. The other type, oospores, reside inside the plant tissue and can spread rapidly and over-winter. At this point, there is no evidence that this particular mildew affecting impatiens is doing that, but why take chances.
Downy mildew is more prevalent in the spring and fall when the cool, wet or humid weather provides ideal conditions. Which Impatiens Varieties are Affected? According to an e-Grow Alert by Nora Catlin, Floriculture Specialist, Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County, the following types of Impatiens are susceptible to downy mildew. All Impatiens waller IANA, including the double and mini types. These are the most common bedding impatiens sold in garden centers. (I. waller IANA hybrids, like the Fusion® series, are less prone, but still susceptible) Balsam Impatiens / Garden Balsam (I. balsam in a) These are taller plants than common Impatiens, with elongated, pointed leaves. Jewel Weed (I. capers is) and Yellow Jewel Weed (I. pallidum). Generally considered weeds, but if they are in the area, they can spread the disease to your landscape Impatiens.
Impatiens Not Affected Himalayan balsam / policeman’s helmet (Impatiens glanduliferous), a wild and sometimes invasive species that can reach heights of 6 - 10 ft. (2 - 3 m), is tolerant of the disease but can act as a host. New Guinea impatiens (Impatiens hawkers) and its hybrids, like SunPatiens®, have so far shown resistance. There may be more plants affected or that act as hosts, but this is the information so far. Symptoms of Downy Mildew on Impatiens Early symptoms can be hard to spot and might be mistaken for a nutrient problem. Leaves stippled or chlorotic (yellowing) and looking like they need fertilizer. Floppy or downward curling leaves.
Sometimes white fuzzy spots will form on the undersides of the leaves. These are spores and usually appear in cool, damp weather. (See photo on page 2.) As the disease progresses the plants may stop growing and look stunted, drop their leaves or completely collapse. What to Do about Downy Mildew on Impatiens Although there is no cure for Impatiens already infected with downy mildew, there are some steps you can take keep it from spreading. Prevention Avoiding downy mildew entirely can be very difficult, because so much is weather dependent. High humidity and cool, damp weather cannot always be avoided. But there are a few growing conditions you can provide, so as not to make matters worse. Provide good air circulation. Don't overcrowd your plants.
Water from below, trying not to wet the leaves when watering and water early in the day. Remove any suspect plants immediately. Cultural management is your best bet. Once a plant is infected, there is no cure. If you want to try controlling the spread of the disease with a preventative fungicide, neem and copper sprays are recommended for homeowners. Will it Over-Winter and Re-infect Plants? So far, there is no sign that it infects seed, although other mildews do - so there is a chance. Some mildews can also over-winter in plant tissues. Although that does not seem to be happening with this downy mildew, don't take a chance by composting affected plants. If downy mildew becomes a major problem in your garden, you should consider not planting them for a year or two. Shade plant alternatives to impatiens include New Guinea impatiens, begonias, and coleus.
Additional resources: Downy Mildew of Impatiens – Some (But Not All) Questions Answered Cornell Cooperative Extension of Suffolk County
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Whiteflies are tiny, heart-shaped flies that rest in very large numbers on the undersides of leaves. When the plant is disturbed or brushed up against, the flies will fly out in a great, sudden cloud. These annoying insects aren't only a nasty surprise for plant owners—who find themselves engulfed in swarms of flies—their nymphs and various larval stages attach to the plant's soft tissues and feed on the plant.
Like other sucking insects, they also secrete honeydew, which raises the risk of fungal diseases and attracting still other pests. Whiteflies are nothing if not prolific. They hatch from tiny, cone-shaped eggs into small scale-like insects that can travel along the plant's stems. The scales molt into nymphs, which then go through several more growth stages before going into a brief resting stage then emerging as adult flies. During almost every step of their development, they continue to feed on the plant. The whole lifecycle takes about 30 days, but this varies depending on the temperature. In warmer weather, they reproduce more quickly, and in colder weather, their growth cycle is slowed.
Whiteflies are a common problem in greenhouses, warm climates, and indoors. They cannot tolerate cold weather, but an indoor whitefly infestation can quickly spiral out of control. It's best to treat whiteflies at the first sign of infection. How to Get Rid of Whiteflies Like most pests, the best control for whiteflies is defensive. Healthy, vigorous plants are less susceptible to infestation than weak, underpotted, and stressed plants. As a general rule, make sure your plants are healthy, and you're less likely to attract these annoying critters in the first place.
If you see whiteflies on your indoor plants, there are several control options: Vacuum them away. Being careful not to damage the plant, you can use your vacuum cleaner's hose attachment to hoover up adult whiteflies. Make sure that any newly hatched whiteflies can't escape from your vacuum bag! Sticky tape. The same sticky tape that works for houseflies can be used for whiteflies. Hang it from the infected plant if possible and follow label directions. Insecticidal soap. Insecticidal soaps are available on the market (such as Safer's Insecticidal Soap), or you can make your own by using a dish detergent such as Ivory Liquid. Try to find a product free of perfumes and additives that might harm plants. Mix the soap in a weak concentration with water (starting a 1 teaspoon per gallon and increasing as necessary). Spray on plants. These will help control the population but are unlikely to wipe them out.
Neem oil. Neem oil is derived from the neem tree. Use according to label instructions. In addition to its insecticidal properties, neem is also a fungicide and has systemic benefits (meaning the plant absorbs it so it can control insects it doesn't directly contact). According to the Environmental Protection Association, neem is safe for use on vegetables and food plants as well as ornamentals. Like insecticidal soap, neem is useful for controlling whitefly populations but might not eliminate the problem.
Kitchen insect spray. This all-purpose insect spray was developed by the editors of Organic Gardening magazine and came to me by way of Rodale's Organic Gardener's Handbook of Natural Insect and Disease Control. To make a batch, combine 1 garlic bulb, 1 small onion, and 1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper in a food processor or blender and process into a paste. Mix into 1 quart of water and steep for 1 hour. Strain through a cheesecloth and add 1 tablespoon of liquid dish soap. Mix well. The mixture can be stored for up to 1 week in the refrigerator.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年09月14日
Soap sprays are some of the oldest insecticides used by gardeners in the old days; gardeners used to boil water with Fels Naptha soap to create an effective soap insecticide. Over time, these "old fashioned" remedies fell out of favor as they were replaced by much stronger and more toxic chemicals. Today, however, as the interest in organic and less chemical intensive gardening continues to grow, insecticidal soap sprays have made a major comeback.
You can find these products in virtually every garden center or, if you find the right ingredients, you can make your own. How Do They Work? Insecticidal soap works through several mechanisms. The soap itself penetrates insects' cuticles, which causes cell collapse and desiccation. In other words, it dries them out. They also operate by suffocating insects such as scale insects. In general, soap sprays are effective for soft-bodied insects including mealybugs and aphids. To varying degrees, soap sprays are also effective against chiggers, earwigs, fleas, mites, scales, and thrips. They are not effective, however, on chewing insects such as caterpillars and beetles.
Although soap sprays are less toxic to gardeners and non-pest animals, they can still be potentially damaging to some plants, especially if an oil has been added to the spray. Before the widespread use of any spray, test it on a small section of the plant first and wait at least 24 hours to see if there are any negative effects. Look for signs like spotting, wrinkling, and browning on leaves. If you see any negative signs, discontinue use of the product. Plants that are susceptible to damage from soap sprays include beans, cucumbers, ferns, gardenias, and peas. How to Use Soap Sprays Soap sprays can be purchased or made at home. Be careful, however, because there is a difference between detergents and soaps. Clear dishwashing detergents are not the same as soaps and should not be used in soap sprays. Instead, look for brands like Ivory Snow, Ivory Liquid, Dr. Bronner's, or Shaklee's Basic H. Do not use any product with additives like fragrance.
To make your soap spray, start with the weakest solution possible, mixing between 1 teaspoon and 3 or 4 tablespoons of soap per gallon of water and using it immediately. When you spray, soak both the tops and bottom of leaves and directly spray any visible insects. The spray needs to make direct contact with the pest insect to be effective. There is some debate whether or not you should use oil to enhance the effectiveness of your spray. Technically, oil is not necessary for the soap to work. However, adding oil will enhance the effectiveness of your spray and increase its shelf-life. To make an easy at-home spray base, Rodale's recommends mixing 1 tablespoon of soap with 1 cup of cooking oil and emulsifying by shaking vigorously. When it comes time to spray, mix 1 to 2.5 teaspoons of this base to every 1 cup of water and spray immediately. Soap sprays can also be enhanced with additives to control fungus and chewing insects.
You can safely add bacullus thuringiensis (BT), copper fungicide, or pyrethrin to the mix, depending on your needs. If you prefer to buy an insecticidal soap, there are some effective commercial products on the market labeled insecticidal soap, many including supplemental ingredients. As with home-made spray, test this on a few leaves before applying to the whole plant.
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仅支持 .JPG .JPEG .PNG .GIF
图片尺寸不得小于300*300px
最少上传一张图片
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