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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ajuga (Ajuga spp.), also known as carpet bugle or bugleweed, is an adaptable, low growing plant that forms a thick carpet of foliage, often with a grayish-green, bronze or reddish tint. The plant is covered with springtime blooms of blue, purple, violet, white or pink, depending on the variety. Although most varieties are relatively well-behaved, Ajuga reptans is a rambunctious cultivar that spreads by long runners. It tends to escape its boundaries and invades flower beds and lawns if it isn’t carefully contained. Ajuga weed control is tricky, and tackling ajuga plants in lawns is especially challenging. Read on for more information about getting rid of bugleweed.
How to Control Ajuga Below are the most effective methods for treating bugleweeds that have become invasive. Hand pulling – It’s always best to manage unwanted plants without use of chemicals whenever possible. If you want to remove ajuga in an environmentally friendly manner, the best solution is pulling – and a lot of it. Watering the area the day before will make ajuga easier to pull, as will loosening the soil around the plants with a spade or garden fork. Use a weeding fork to dig deep under the roots for more thorough ajuga weed control. Take your time and remove as many roots as possible because even small pieces that remain in the soil can take root and spread. Keep a careful watch on the area and pull new plants as soon as they appear. It will take time, but if you are persistent, you will eventually gain the upper hand.
Dispose of the plants properly and don’t toss them on your compost pile; they’ll take root and you’ll be back at square one – or worse. Homemade herbicide – Another option for getting rid of bugleweed is to create a homemade, environmentally friendly herbicide by mixing equal parts very hot water and vinegar. Stir in a small amount of salt and a few drops of liquid dish soap. Apply the solution with a spray bottle or a garden sprayer. Black plastic – If the ajuga isn’t in your lawn, you may be able to smother large patches with black plastic. Secure the plastic with bricks or rocks and leave it alone for two weeks so the sun can “bake” the ajuga. If the plants are still alive, leave the plastic in place for an additional two weeks. Chemical herbicides – If all else fails, ajuga weed control may require an herbicide such as Round-up. If the ajuga is in your lawn, read the label carefully and be sure to use a non-selective herbicide that will kill the ajuga without harming your lawn.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ajuga is one of those perennials that is as adaptive as it is entrancing. The low-growing rosettes boast beautiful foliage and spikes of eye-catching flowers in spring. Most varieties are runners which spread by stolons. It makes an excellent groundcover, but can you plant ajuga in pots? The attractive leaves and spreading nature of the plant perform as bright colored fillers in containers and may even be evergreen in many zones. Growing ajuga in containers provides long lasting texture and a foil for many other blooming or foliage plants.
Can You Plant Ajuga in Pots? One of my go-to plants for containers or garden beds is ajuga. It is hardy, unfussy, brilliantly colored and gives more and more plants each season. Container grown ajuga is just as useful and perks up a pot when other plants have yet to bloom or have died back. The lively color and jaunty little flowers can grow in either shade or sun, providing many options for containers in any situation. Gardeners with a love for ajuga in the garden will be delighted to know the plants do well in confined containers as well. Even the runner types will thrive in a well-drained medium with plenty of organic material. The pop of color and low growth habit are perfect for green leafy specimens and blooming perennials that haven’t flowered yet. Once your container is in full flower, ajuga doesn’t compete with other plants’ brilliance. Instead, it enhances the tones and textures that are coming into their own as spring progresses into summer. Spring is the best time for ajuga planting in pots but in temperate regions you can also create a container garden with the plant in fall.
Planting Ideas for Ajuga in Containers Ajuga plants come with foliage of purple or green tinged with maroon, bronze, variegated pink, green, white and even silver-green. Most have blue flowers but a few have pink blooms. The rainbow nature of the plant ensures there is a variety for every container need. The most common are the purple-maroon leafed cultivars with bright blue spring flower spikes. Try growing ajuga in containers with summer perennials like: Yarrow Campanula Coreopsis Geraniums Primroses
A complete foliage container is a spectacle of texture and hues if you combine ajuga with any of the following: Heuchera Ferns Hosta Pulmonaria Ajuga is fairly resistant to dry conditions once established and can also be used with more arid loving plants like: Hens and chicks Sedum Creeping thyme Thrift Because container grown ajuga can tolerate shade conditions, a container comprised of hosta, houittuynia, and brunnera will provide low light containers that capture any stray sunbeam and transform into a kaleidoscope of color and infectious foliage texture.
How to Care for Potted Ajuga Plants There are few special rules for ajuga planting in pots. You do need to know how to care for potted ajuga plants during winter and what is expected regarding water and fertilizer. In combined container settings, try to plant specimens that match ajuga’s cultural preferences. The plant needs consistent moisture until established. It can tolerate either full sun or total shade. Feed the plants twice per year, beginning in early spring and again two months later. Remove runners if you wish and plant them in other containers or in the ground.
Flower spikes may be cut off when they are spent or leave them, as the dried spires have some architectural interest. In the winter, mulch around the root zone of ajuga to protect it from cold snaps, which are more severely felt in unsheltered containers. Pull away the mulch in late winter to early spring so new foliage and rosettes can easily grow. Ajuga is an uncomplicated plant with many uses and years of resilient beauty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ajuga – also known as bugleweed – is a tough, low-growing ground cover. It offers bright, semi-evergreen foliage and showy flower spikes in amazing shades of blue. The vigorous plant grows in a carpet of shiny foliage and massed flowers, swiftly forming dense mats that require little maintenance. Ajuga plant propagation is so easy that the plants easily become invasive, rambling across the lawn and into places in the garden reserved for other plants. Read on for information about propagating ajuga plants.
Propagation of Ajuga Plants Growing ajuga is easier than getting rid of it, so take its rapid growth into account before you decide on ajuga plant propagation. You’ll first want to prepare a garden space to plant your new ajuga. You’ll succeed best at ajuga plant propagation if you select a sunny area or one that is in light shade for the plant’s new home. Ajuga won’t flower well in full shade. Ajuga plants do best in moist, fertile soil. It’s a good idea to work in humus or other organic material to the soil before planting time.
How to Propagate Bugleweed You can start propagating ajuga plants from plant seeds or by division. Seeds One way to start propagating ajuga plants is by planting seeds. If you decide to do this, sow ajuga plant seeds in containers in fall or spring. Just cover the seeds with a thin layer of compost and keep the soil moist. The seeds germinate in a month or less. Prick out the individual plants and place in larger containers. In summer, move the young plants to your garden beds.
Division Ajuga spread by underground runners called stolons. These runners root the plant in nearby soil and form clumps. The ajuga clumps will eventually get crowded and begin to lose vigor. This is the time to lift and divide them in order to obtain additional ajuga plants.Propagation of ajuga by division is an operation for early spring or fall. It’s a simple process. All you have to do is dig out the clumps and pull or cut them apart into smaller sections, then replant them in another location. You can also simply cut out big sections of plant mats – like lawn sod – and move them to a new location.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sometimes known as succulent sesame, Uncarina is a striking shrubby plant, large enough to be considered a small tree in its native Madagascar. Uncarina is an otherworldly-looking plant with a swollen, succulent base, thick, twisty branches and fuzzy leaves. If this smattering of Uncarina information has piqued your interest, read on to learn more about growing Uncarina and caring for Uncarina plants.
Uncarina Information The color of Uncarina blooms, which vary depending on the species, ranges from various shades or orange-yellow or golden-yellow, or even purple or rose. One popular species, Uncarina grandidieri, produces bright yellow blooms that resemble petunias with contrasting dark throats. Similarly, the shape of the leaves depends on the species. Uncarina is also known as claw plant or mousetrap tree for a very good reason – the seed pods are armed with stout, hooked barbs that frequently grab unsuspecting animals unlucky enough to pass by. If you’re daring enough to try growing this unusual, somewhat eerie plant, don’t touch the pods, as the barbs are extremely difficult to remove from fingers.
Growing Uncarina Plants Uncarina is a deciduous shrub that can be grown in a container, or in the ground where is can reach heights of 10 to 12 feet. If you opt to grow Uncarina in a container, a smaller pot will keep growth in check. Propagating Unicarina is done via cuttings or seeds.
Caring for Uncarina Plants Uncarina plants require plenty of bright light, although the plant will tolerate light shade when grown outdoors in sunny climates. Uncarina requires well-draining soil; indoor plants do well in a potting mix formulated for cactus. Uncarina care is uninvolved, as Uncarina is relatively drought tolerant once established. It benefits from regular water during its growing period, but should be kept dry during winter dormancy. This tropical plant won’t tolerate frost.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Holiday cacti bloom around the season for which they are named. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that the Thanksgiving cactus blooms around November. The Thanksgiving holiday cactus is an easy to grow interior plant. Both Christmas and Thanksgiving cacti are in the genus Schlumbergera and are native to the tropical forests of Brazil. They are attractive plants commonly sold and given as gifts around the holidays but are also easy to propagate from stem cuttings. Read on for Thanksgiving holiday cactus information that will keep you growing and giving away these plants for a lifetime.
Thanksgiving Cactus Information Schlumbergera truncata is the Thanksgiving cactus. It is called a leaf cactus but is not a true cactus. Rather it is an epiphyte, those plants which live on other plants. The leaves are broad and flat with slight serrations on the edges in the Thanksgiving vs. Christmas cactus, which has smoother edges. The flowers that appear in fall are similar to fuchsia blooms and come in hues of yellow, white, pink and red. These plants are classed as Zygocactus, which some scholars call a misnomer, while others shout it from the roof tops. Whatever type of plant it is, the Thanksgiving holiday cactus is a proven winner, with blooms that last for 2 to 4 months and an easy-going nature. The only real problem with the plant is its need to be fooled in order to bloom again the next year.
Forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom requires cool temperatures and shorter daylight hours. That means if you live in a region with no frost, you can leave the cactus outside to experience just what is naturally occurring. Those of us who live where temperatures get cold will have to create false conditions indoors to protect them from the cold, but can experience cool temps down to 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) and reduced light, including artificial light. Start forcing Thanksgiving cactus to bloom in late summer to early fall.
Thanksgiving Cactus Plant Care One of the most crucial aspects of Thanksgiving cactus plant care is water. These tropical plants should not be allowed to dry out; however, excess water at the roots can cause rotting and fungal issues. As an epiphyte, it often has exposed roots and gathers most of its moisture through humidity in the air. Potted plants need well-draining soil and good drainage. Water thoroughly and then allow the top 1/3 of soil dry out before you water again.
Growing Thanksgiving Cactus Cuttings The plants are easy to propagate and multiply. Snip off a stem with 4 to 5 sections and leaves. Dust the end with fungicide and allow it to callus for a week in a dry location. Fill a small clay pot with vermiculite or perlite mixed with potting soil. Alternatively, you can use damp sand. Push the callused end into the mixture and place the pot in bright but indirect light. Tent over the cutting with a plastic bag and remove it for an hour each day to let in air. In approximately 3 weeks, the cutting will have rooted and you will have a brand new plant. Growing Thanksgiving cactus to blooming stage will take a couple of years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you’re looking for an easy succulent to grow indoors, opt for the string of beads (Senecio rowleyanus) plant. In addition to its carefree growth habit, this interesting houseplant can provide a unique focal point in the home. Sprawling over the edges of containers or hanging baskets, the string of beads plant resembles a beaded necklace with its fleshy green, pea-like foliage. Learn more about growing string of beads houseplant so you can also enjoy its unique characteristics and ease of care.
What is a String of Beads Houseplant? Also called rosary string of beads or string of pearls plant, this creeping succulent is an odd looking plant that many people enjoy adding to their indoor gardens. Though the flowers may seem small and unattractive to some people, if they’re even lucky enough to get them, others find the faint white blooms (which smell a bit like cinnamon) quite welcome. Still, it’s the thin thread-like stems and fleshy round, bead-like leaves that make this unusual houseplant a great addition to the home. Learning how to grow a string of pearls houseplant is extremely easy.
How to Grow a String of Pearls Houseplant The string of pearls plant grows well in bright light, including sunlight. You should provide this string of beads houseplant with average indoor temperatures (around 72 F./22 C.) throughout its active growth. During its dormancy, however, you’ll need to provide cooler conditions, generally somewhere between 50 to 55 F. (10-13 C.). Give this houseplant a well-draining sandy soil, preferably the type most suitable for growing cacti and succulent plants. Pot your plant in a hanging basket so its trailing foliage can hang down.
String of Pearls Care As with most succulent plants, the string of beads requires little care. However, while there’s little maintenance involved with growing a rosary string of beads plant, you will need to provide it with some care. This succulent plant is drought tolerant, surviving long periods without water. In fact, the plant’s water-storing abilities allow it to be watered thoroughly one week and then pretty much forgotten the next week or two. Watering too often can increase the chances of root rot. So be sure to let the soil dry out at least half an inch or so between waterings. In winter, cut back watering to about once monthly. Occasionally, you may find that pruning becomes necessary as part of your string of pearls care in order to maintain its size or appearance. This is simple to do. Trim off any dead stems and pearls, as well as any stems that have lost a lot of their ‘beads.’ Pruning back will help promote fuller, more compact plants.
Even better than its ease of care is the fact that you can share the plant with others. Whenever pruning is in order, you can take advantage of the plant’s easy propagation. Simply place a cutting or two in a pot of soil and they will easily take root. The string of beads houseplant makes an excellent conversation piece. Your family, friends, and neighbors will love it as much as you will.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Cactus collectors love the little Astrophytum star cactus. It is a spineless cactus with a chubby round body resembling a sand dollar. Star cactus plants are easy to grow and make an interesting part of a succulent or arid garden display. Find out how to grow a star cactus and add this adorable little specimen to your dish garden or succulent pot.
Astrophytum Star Cactus Characteristics The common names for plants are often the most descriptive and a fun way to learn about the plant. Star cactus plants (Astrophytum asteria) are also known as sea urchin cactus, sand dollar cactus or star peyote — which refers to the flower. They are also very similar in nature to Peyote cactus plants. The round body may grow 2 to 6 inches across with gently ridged sides. It is green to grayish brown and covered in tiny white dots that radiate down the ridges. The body has eight sections which are decorated with fine white hairs. The lucky gardener that provides excellent Astrophytum cactus care will be rewarded in March to May with 3-inch yellow flowers that boast orange centers. These turn into drupes or berries in late spring, which may be gray, pink or reddish and covered in wooly hair.
How to Grow a Star Cactus The plant has been overly collected in its habitat and the wild population is threatened. Get your star cactus plants from an accredited nursery that grows them from seed. This cactus is hardy in USDA plant hardiness zones 8 to 9 but does perfectly well in a sunny window in the home. If you get your hands on seeds, start them in seed flats with a sandy composite soil mix. Keep the soil moist until germination and then move them to a sunny location with protection from noonday sun. Mist the soil when caring for star cactus babies as overhead watering can damage the tender tissues. They will need to be kept moist until the seedling is robust and at least ½ inch tall.
Astrophytum Cactus Care Novice gardeners love the ease of cacti care as interior plants. They thrive on neglect, although star cactus plants will need water occasionally. The body will flatten out and turn brown if it is in dire need of water. Pot them up in a purchased cactus mix or equal parts potting soil and sand. The container should be free draining and unglazed so excess moisture evaporates readily. April is the best time to repot, but actually the plants like to be pot bound so this doesn’t need to be done frequently. Fertilize June to September when caring for star cactus. Reduce the amount of water you give in the dormant winter months. Root rots, scab and mealybugs prey on this plant. Watch for signs and treat immediately.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Saguaro cactus (Carnegiea gigantea) blossoms are the state flower of Arizona. The cactus is a very slow growing plant, which may add only 1 to 1 ½ inches in the first eight years of life. The Saguaro grows arms or lateral stems but it may take up to 75 years to produce the first one. Saguaro are very long lived and many found in the desert are 175 years old. It is likely that rather than growing Saguaro cactus in the home garden, you may find yourself the becoming owner of a well established Saguaro cactus when you buy a new home or build a home on land where Saguaro cactus already grow.
Saguaro Cactus Characteristics Saguaro have barrel-shaped bodies with peripheral stems called arms. The exterior of the trunk is pleated due to the way it grows. The pleats expand, allowing the cactus to gather extra water in the rainy season and storing it in its tissues. An adult cactus may weigh 6 tons or more when filled with water and requires a strong internal support skeleton of connected ribs. A young growing Saguaro cactus may only be a few inches tall as ten year old plants and take decades to resemble the adults.
Where Do Saguaro Cactus Grow? These cacti are native to and only grow in the Sonoran Desert. Saguaro are not found in the entire desert but only in areas that don’t freeze and at certain elevations. The freezing point is one of the most important considerations of where do Saguaro cactus grow. The cactus plants are found from sea level up to 4,000 feet. If they are growing above 4,000 feet, the plants survive only on south slopes where there are fewer freezes of shorter duration. Saguaro cactus plants are important parts of the desert ecology, both as habitat and as food.
Saguaro Cactus Care It is not legal to procure a Saguaro cactus for home cultivation by digging it out of the desert. Beyond that, mature Saguaro cactus plants almost always die when transplanted. Saguaro cactus babies grow under the protection of nurse trees. The cactus will continue to grow and often its nurse tree will expire. It is thought the cactus may cause the nurse tree to die by competing for resources. The nurse trees provide Saguaro cactus babies with shelter from the harsh rays of the sun and dispersing moisture from evaporation. Saguaro cactus needs to grow in well-drained grit and receive low levels of water, with the soil drying out completely between irrigation. Annually fertilizing with cactus food in spring will help the plant complete its growth cycle. There are common cactus pests, such as scale and mealybugs, that will require manual or chemical controls.
Saguaro Cactus Blossoms Saguaro cactus are slow to develop and may be 35 years of age or more before they produce the first flower. The flowers bloom in May until June and are a creamy white color and about 3 inches across. The Saguaro cactus blossoms only open at night and close in the day, which means they are pollinated by moths, bats and other nocturnal creatures.. The flowers are generally located at the end of the arms but may occasionally decorate the sides of the cactus.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
Saguaro are one of the most stately and statuesque of the cacti. They are also fall prey to a nasty infection called bacterial necrosis of saguaro. What is bacterial necrosis? If you know what necrosis is, you can tell by the name that this disease is very simply a condition that rots the tissues of the plant. It is a smelly, potentially life threatening disease with some difficult control practices. The importance of detecting and beginning treatment cannot be stressed, as the plant can live for some time with small spots of the disease, but will eventually succumb if left untreated.
What is Bacterial Necrosis? Saguaro cactus can live for 200 years and grow up to 60 feet in height. These monstrous desert dwellers look imposing and impervious but can actually be brought down by a tiny bacteria. Saguaro cactus necrosis can invade the plant in a number of ways. It eventually creates necrotic pockets in the flesh which will spread. These necrotic areas are dead plant tissue and, if left unchecked, can eventually kill these regal plants. Treating bacterial necrosis in saguaro in the early stages can give the plant an 80 percent chance of survival. Saguaro cactus problems are rare, as these prickly giants have developed methods of protection from predators and are remarkably adaptable to a variety of unfavorable conditions. Saguaro cactus necrosis starts out as dark spots in the flesh, which is soft and smelly. Eventually, the disease progresses to rotten lesions that exude dark, smelly fluid.
Saguaro cactus necrosis may also develop into a corky patch where the plant is trying to heal itself. Any breach of the corked area will release the bacteria and infect more of the plant. The villain is a bacteria called Erwinia. It can get into the plant from any injury and even from a moth’s feeding activities. The bacteria also survives in soil until it finds a victim. Treating Bacterial Necrosis in Saguaro Bacterial necrosis of saguaro treatment is mostly manual, as there are no approved chemicals to combat the bacteria. The infected material needs to be removed from the plant and the area cleaned to prevent the spread of the disease. Infected material must be destroyed and not added to the compost bin. Immediately doing “surgery” on your plant may or may not save it, however, as the bacteria lives in the soil or in dead plant matter on the ground.
Any future injury or even the tunneling of larvae into the plant will leave it open to re-infection. You should treat the process just like a surgery and prepare by sterilizing all tools you will use and arming yourself with some heavy gloves to prevent getting stuck by the plant’s spines. Saguaro cactus problems from bacterial necrosis begin with open, oozing wounds. You will need a sharp, clean knife to cut out the area. Excise at least ½ inch of the surrounding healthy tissue as well. As you cut, dip the knife into a 1:9 ratio solution of bleach and water to sanitize between cuts. As you make your cuts, angle them so any water will drain out of the cactus.
Rinse the hole you have made with the bleach solution to kill any remaining pathogen. The hole needs to remain open to the air to dry out and callus naturally. In most instances, the cactus will be fine provided the bacteria is not re-introduced. In rare cases, a cactus has been entirely girdled by the disease and, sadly, the plant needs to be removed and destroyed. This usually only happens on large plantations or in the wild where the keen eye of the gardener is not aware of potential problems.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月27日
Dummer. ゛☀
You may have seen them in your local produce market – those plump pinkish red fruits with characteristic scars from thorns. These are heat-loving prickly pear fruit. Southern foragers can simply go out into their wild regions and pick the fruit, but when do you harvest prickly pear fruit? Foragers interested in trying the fruits for themselves should read on for a few tips on how to pick prickly pear cactus and what to do with them once you have a bountiful harvest.
When Do You Harvest Prickly Pear Fruit? Prickly pear fruit is found in warm regions of North America but even northern denizens can get a taste of this unique fruit in specialty markets. Prickly pear fruit is a traditional food of the indigenous population of arid, warm regions. The chubby little fruits are excellent eaten raw, stewed, canned or prepared into preserves but first you have to have a plant for picking prickly pear fruit. Harvesting isn’t difficult, but you need to take some precautions to protect yourself from the long spines and even more insidious glochids.
August is when the fat cactus pads of the prickly pear are adorned with ruby red fruits. Most expert gatherers recommend picking prickly pear fruit with a deep ruby color and no green remaining. These fruits will be sweetest and juiciest with the best flavor and will also remove easily. You should have long sleeves and thick leather gloves to protect yourself from the spines. The tiny, almost invisible glochids are the more dangerous than the large spines. A single brush against the fruit and you may get hundreds of invisible, fine spines imbedded in your skin. Bring along some duct tape just in case this happens. Use it to remove the spines and save yourself a lot of time and irritation.
How to Pick Prickly Pear Cactus There are a couple of schools of thought on the method used for harvesting prickly pear fruit. Most foragers use a pair of tongs or something similar to simply twist off the fruits. Ripe fruit should twist off easily. Alternatively, it has been suggested that a small butane burner with a wand is the best method. Use the tool to scorch off the pear’s thorns and glochlids. Using a burner makes harvesting prickly pear fruit less fraught with peril, as the lack of spines renders the fruit safe to grab. Always leave a few fruit for wild animals and birds. Place fruit in a basket or bag but try not to layer them too much, crushing the bottom fruit.
Prickly Pear Fruit Harvest Storage Fruits will store in refrigeration for a couple of days but they are best used fresh. Store in a single layer of your crisper. If you have a bumper crop, you may choose to store them in the freezer. This will break down the fruit but it is still useful to make juice or a preserves. Frozen fruit can be mashed and strained to remove any seeds, skin and stray thorns. The juice will go bad in just a few days so should be used immediately or refrozen. Common uses for a good prickly pear fruit harvest might be as a syrup in desserts, fermented into a delicious vinegar, or even in a tea. The juice also adds interest to many common alcoholic concoctions and enhances meats as a salsa or chutney.
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