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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
There are number of reasons the foliage on a houseplant can turn brown. Why do prayer plant leaves turn brown? Prayer plants with brown tips can be caused by low humidity, improper watering, excess fertilizer or even too much sun. Cultural conditions are easy to change and soon your beautiful houseplant will be back to its glossy glory. Take a good look at where your plant is situated and how you care for it, and you can unlock the riddle of why you have brown leaves on prayer plants.
Why Do Prayer Plants Leaves Turn Brown? Prayer plants are beautiful tropical foliage plants. They naturally live in the understory of Brazilian tropical forests and need moderate light and high humidity. This makes them perfect houseplants for most conditions. However, if you say, “my prayer plant has brown leaves,” you need to ask if you are providing those conditions. Prayer plants with brown leaves may be trying to tell you that the cultural conditions aren’t correct for this glossy leaved plant with a habit of folding its leaves together at night in worshipful prayer. The foliage of prayer plant is spectacular. The broad oval leaves have glossy green coloring with windowpanes of lighter green to white. The veins are a bold red with red to maroon coloring on the undersides of the leaves. The plants are prized for this dimension of color in the leaves, which means brown leaves on prayer plants mar the perfection of the foliage. Ideal conditions for prayer plants are indirect light, medium to high humidity, moderately moist soil and well-draining containers and medium. If you notice edges turning brown on prayer plants, any one of these conditions may need to be addressed. The plant needs light but can burn in a southern window. Heated homes tend to be dry so a humidifier or misting can help add extra moisture to the air. Good potting soil and a moisture meter can keep the soil wet enough without getting soggy.
Additional Reasons for Brown Leaves on Prayer Plants So you have all the correct conditions for your plant, yet you still see the edges turning brown on prayer plants. Why? It may be the type of water you use or fertilizer salt build-up. Use rainwater or distilled water to irrigate the container. Excess minerals and common tap water additives may be stressing the plant out. Feed your houseplant spring through fall with a diluted soluble plant food every two weeks. However, improper dilution or frequent feeding will lead to a build-up of the salts found in fertilizer. This can be flushed from the soil or, in extreme cases, repot the plant with a high quality houseplant soil.
If you have considered and corrected all these possible causes, and you still say, “My prayer plant has brown leaves,” you may need to look through a magnifying glass to identify the culprits. Several sucking or chewing insects may have hitchhiked into your home and are damaging the tissue of the leaves, which will die and brown. Look carefully for these invaders and use a horticultural soap to control them. You can also put the plant in the shower and hose off most of the pests. Just remember to let the plant drain completely and adjust your watering schedule to reflect that excess water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
If you’re a fan of the carnivorous pitcher plant, you’ll eventually want to propagate some of your specimens to add to your collection. These plants may look exotic, but propagating pitcher plants is no harder than propagating any other plant. Pitcher plant propagation can be done in a number of ways, but planting seeds or rooting cuttings are the best methods for home growers to succeed. Learn more about how to propagate a pitcher plant and you’ll increase your collection with very little effort.
Pitcher Plant Seeds Collect the pitcher plant seeds in late fall by pinching open the dry capsules over an envelope or piece of paper towel. Drop the seeds into a sandwich bag, along with a fungicide such as Captan, and shake the bag to coat the seeds. Pour the seeds and powder onto a new sheet of paper towel and blow off the excess powder. Spread the seeds out on a dampened paper towel, roll up the towel and store it in a zip-top bag in the refrigerator for two to three months. Sprout the seeds by sprinkling them over a mixture of sand and peat moss. Water it and place the planter under grow lights 18 hours a day. Germination can take weeks, and the seedlings need to stay under the lights for at least four months before transplanting.
Pitcher Plant Cuttings A faster way to propagate is by rooting pitcher plant cuttings. Cut pieces of stem that have two or three leaves on them, and clip off half of each leaf. Cut the bottom end of the stem on a diagonal and cover it with rooting hormone powder. Fill a planter with sphagnum moss and wet it. Make a hole in the damp moss with a pencil, place the powdered stem in the hole and push the moss around the stem to secure it. Water the pot again, place it in a plastic bag and place it under grow lights. The pitcher plant cuttings should root within two months, and can be transplanted after they begin to grow new leaves.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Every healthy houseplant eventually needs repotting, and your exotic pitcher plants are no different. The soilless mix that your plant lives in will eventually compact and shrink, leaving little room for the roots to grow. If you’re wondering, “When do I repot a pitcher plant?” every one to two years is the best interval. Learn how to repot pitcher plants and your carnivorous collection will enjoy roomy new homes.
When Do I Repot a Pitcher Plant? Pitcher plants, like other plants, do best when you repot them early in the spring before they have a chance to produce new growth. When your plant is still dormant, right before the spring arrives, remove it from its pot and gently remove as much planting medium as you can using a chopstick or other small object. Make a new potting mixture of ½ cup of sand, ½ cup of washed charcoal, 1 cup of sphagnum moss and 1 cup of peat moss. Mix the ingredients together thoroughly. Stand the pitcher plant in a new plastic planter and gently drop planting mix into the pot to cover the roots. Tap the planter on the table to settle the mix, then add more on top. Water the mix to remove any air pockets, and top off the mix if needed.
Pitcher Plant Care Pitcher plant care is relatively simple if you give them the right growing conditions. Always use plastic planters, as terra cotta ones will absorb salts too quickly. Once you have repotted the plants, place them in dappled sunlight or behind sheer curtains. Keep the potting mix moist at all times, but never let the pot stand in water or the plant may develop root rot.
Pitcher plants only need one or two insects a month, but if your plant hasn’t been lucky lately, give it a small, freshly-killed bug once a month to add nutrients.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Sarracenia, or pitcher plants, are native to North America. They are classic carnivorous plants that use trapped insects as part of their nutrient needs. These specimens need moist conditions and are often found near water. Most varieties are not extremely cold hardy, which makes pitcher plant care over winter very important. During pitcher plant dormancy, some exposure to chilly temperatures is necessary but most are not hardy below USDA zone 7. Over wintering pitcher plants in colder zones will require moving the plants or providing them with protection from the cold weather.
A Word About Pitcher Plants Pitcher plants are bog plants and are often grown as part of a water garden or at the edge of a water feature. The genus Sarracenia supports 15 different varieties scattered across North America. Most are common in zone 6 and readily survive their areas cold snaps. Plants that grow in zone 7, such as S. rosea, S. minor and S. psittacina, need a little help when freezes occur but can usually stay outside in cold temperatures. The most cold hardy species, Sarracenia purpura, can survive zone 5 outside. Can pitcher plant survive indoors during the winter? Any variety of pitcher plant is suitable for growing in a greenhouse with controlled conditions. Smaller varieties may be brought into the home for winter if you provide air circulation, humidity and a warm situation.
Caring for Pitcher Plants in the Winter Plants in USDA zone 6 are acclimated to short freezing periods. Pitcher plant dormancy requires the chilling period and then warm temperatures that signal it to break dormancy. The chilling requirement is important for all species of Sarracenia to signal when it is time to begin growing again. In extreme cold, apply a thick layer of mulch around the base of the plants to protect the roots. If you have varieties growing in water, break the ice and keep the water trays full. Caring for pitcher plants in winter in colder zones will require you to bring them indoors. Potted species of S. purpurea can stay outdoors in a sheltered location. All other varieties should be brought in to a cool covered location, such as a garage or unheated basement. Reduce water and do not fertilize when providing pitcher plant care over winter for the less hardy species.
Can Pitcher Plant Survive Indoors During the Winter? This is a great question. As with any plant, the key to overwintering pitcher plants is to mimic their natural habitat. This means each species will need different average temperatures, longer or shorter dormancy periods and slightly different site and growing conditions. Overall, it is safe to say that pitcher plants need warm growing conditions, plenty of moisture, peat or acidic soil, medium light levels and at least 30 percent humidity. All these conditions can be difficult to provide in the home environment. However, since the plants are dormant for three to four months, their growing needs have slowed down. Bring potted plants to a low light area where temperatures are below 60 F. (16 C.), reduce the amount of water they have and wait for three months, then gradually reintroduce the plant to higher light and heat conditions.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pitcher plant care is relatively easy and they make interesting houseplants or outdoor specimens in milder climes. Do pitcher plants need fertilizer? In ideal conditions, the plant makes all the food it needs by supplementing with insects that provide nitrogen. Indoor plants may need a little help in the nitrogen department. Find out how to fertilize a pitcher plant and enjoy the distinctive appearance and habits of this amazing species.
Do Pitcher Plants Need Fertilizer? Sarracenia is a large group of carnivorous plants found across the globe. More commonly known as pitcher plant, the genus is formed of plants that have found a unique way to survive in low nutrient soil. Sarracenia are North American natives. Nepenthes are the tropical varieties of pitcher plant, which need warm weather and plenty of humidity. The plants harvest insects by trapping them in their pitcher-shaped leaves. The insects provide nitrogen for the plant’s growth and health. In the wild they thrive without anyone feeding, but potbound plants will benefit from additional nutritional supplementation. Seedlings also need some food in addition to their soil medium since they do not have properly formed pitchers in which to catch gnats and other tiny insects.
Basic Pitcher Plant Care Use any porous potting mix, such as orchid mix, for growing pitcher plants. It should be slightly acidic and well draining. Plant pitcher plants in an unglazed ceramic pot with good drainage holes. Both groups of the plant require plenty of water and should never be allowed to dry out. They love to be in a dish of water or even at the edge of a water garden. An important part of pitcher plant care is the type of water. These plants are sensitive to tap water and should be in contact with distilled or rain water only. Full sun locations are preferable with some shelter from the harshest midday rays. Outdoor plants have plenty of opportunity to catch flies while indoor plants may need you to hunt for them. Without supplemental insects, fertilizing pitcher plants is necessary to keep them healthy.
How to Fertilize a Pitcher Plant Pitcher plants should not be fertilized over the soil. The plants are used to low nutrient soil in their native habitats and excess nutrients can actually kill them. Instead, if the plant is doing poorly, try to feed it an insect via the pitcher structures or add diluted liquid fertilizer directly into the tubular leaves. A high nitrogen pitcher plant fertilizer is perfect to fulfill the plant’s needs. A mild fish fertilizer diluted by one-quarter every two to four weeks can be added to the pitcher. Young plants and seedlings benefit more from fertilizer and may be soil fed. Dilute by half and follow any soil feeding with a drench of rainwater or distilled water. Make sure the pitcher is at least half full before fertilizing pitcher plants. Outdoor plants should be fine without extra feeding, provided they are in a moist, acidic soil and bright light. Some commercial formulas that work well as pitcher plant fertilizer are Osmocote, Miracid and Miracle Grow. Don’t forget to dilute the fertilizer heavily with mineral free water.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Dummer. ゛☀
Adding a pitcher plant or three to your garden or interior space adds a touch of the unusual. Beyond being interesting carnivorous specimens, the pitcher plant produces a beautiful bloom as a reward to a gardener who has cared for it well. When your pitcher plant turns yellow or brown, it’s not time to panic; these hardy plants are hard to keep down for long.
Is My Pitcher Plant Dying? More than likely, your pitcher plant is just getting older; browning or yellowing pitcher plants are perfectly normal even when plants have received excellent care. As individual pitchers age, they may start to yellow, then brown and collapse. If it’s only the oldest or largest pitchers doing this, it’s nothing to worry about; your plant is just shedding its oldest pitchers. As fall approaches, a normal plant will begin to go dormant and stop replacing the shed pitchers. If you’re unsure about pitcher plant care and the pitcher plant turning brown or yellow is discolored all over, you may have bigger problems. Although pitcher plants are bog natives, they don’t tolerate standing water like their carnivorous contemporaries, immediately reduce watering to dry out the soil around the plant’s crown. If you’re watering with tap water, this could be causing problems as well. Many fanciers believe the heavy minerals in tap water can cause injury, so stick to purified or filtered water.
Other Causes of Environmental Stress Pitcher plants that are changing color may be trying to tell you that something is wrong in their environment. This requires a total evaluation of the system where they live; these plants are not the same as your philodendrons or gerbera daisies and they have very unique needs. Your growing medium should be loose but absorbent, like the bogs from which these plants hail. A slightly acidic pH is also beneficial. Try moving your plant into a sunny area; pitcher plants need full sun to do their best. However, if you place them in a window with bright, direct sunlight, they may burn, so choose your location carefully.
Humidity should be high, around 60 percent when possible. Moving your plant to a terrarium might improve its color. Remember that carnivorous plants thrive in poor soils and get most of their nutrition from consuming insects; fertilizer can be very damaging to these plants.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Pitcher plants are fascinating carnivorous plants that harvest insects and feed on their juices. They do this because traditionally, these bog plants live in low nitrogen areas and must get nutrients in other ways. Pitcher plants make interesting indoor plants, especially the tender, tropical Nepenthes varieties. Sarracenia varieties are native to North America and can survive outside in many zones. As with any plant, diseases of pitcher plant may occur and should be dealt with immediately. There are also some common pests of pitcher plants that can chew away the modified pitcher shaped leaf, preventing the plant from harvesting its food.
Pitcher Plant Problems The most common pitcher plant problems lie in cultivation and environmental issues. That said, there are a few pitcher plant diseases and pests that may affect them as well. Environmental Issues Outdoor plants can survive some freezing temperatures with a thick blanket of mulch around the rhizome area. However, the freezing temperatures before the plant is fully dormant may kill the rhizomes. Dig up the plant and check for any firm, white rhizomes and replant these, discarding the mushy discolored sections. Pitcher plants are bog plants but they can also drown in solid clay soils, so be careful to ensure proper drainage. Chemical drift from sprayed pesticides or herbicides is also a danger to the plant.
Diseases of Pitcher Plant Pitcher plants should not be fertilized. As a bog plant engineered to harvesting its own nutrients, it is adaptable to low nutrient soils. Indoor plants may look yellow or unhealthy due to too few insects for harvest. In this case, fertilize with a half dilution of liquid plant food directly into a pitcher that has water in it. Direct fertilization of the soil can encourage natural soil borne spores from Rhizoctonia and Fusarium, which are very common fungal diseases of pitcher plants. Fertilizing promotes the formation of these spores to multiply rapidly and they can wreak havoc on your pitcher plant. Pitcher plant diseases such as these can enter through the roots, destroying the vascular system of the plant or just affect the foliage. Either way, the damage seriously affects the health of the plant. Pests of Pitcher Plants One might think that any insects that get near the plant will become food and good riddance. This is true for many flying and creeping species, but some smaller foes exist that are too numerous and persistent for the plant to handle.
Spider mites attach when a plant is dry and the weather is hot. Keep the plant moist to avoid injury to the plant from their sucking habits. More obvious in their damage are thrips. You cannot see these teeny little insects well but deformed leaves will signal their presence. To verify that they are in residence, hold a white piece of paper under the leaves and shake the foliage gently. If you see tiny black spots that move, you have thrips. Aphids, leafhoppers and mealybugs will also make a meal of your pitcher plant. Control them using water rinses and an application of a product called Orthene applied as a spray. Neem oil is also effective. Follow the directions carefully when using any pesticide and spray outdoors.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
There is something otherworldly about the cobra lily plant. The undulating form and strangely built leaves call to mind old horror movies, yet give such a unique vision that the viewer is also reminded of the great diversity of life on our planet. This pitcher plant is not only unique in appearance but has an active appetite fed by insects and, occasionally, small vertebrates. If you are lucky enough to live in a zone sufficiently warm, learn how to grow cobra lily and bring this amazing plant’s drama into your landscape.
Cobra Lily Information California pitcher plants (Darlingtonia californica) grow in distinctive groupings across the state’s countryside. Cobra lily pitcher plants are native to North America and found in nutrient poor boggy areas. The plants spread asexually through runners and stolens and infrequently flower. They are inimitable plants, unmatched by most flora in exceptional structure and eccentric beauty. The cobra lily plant almost defies description. The main features of the plant are the modified leaves that rise from the base and terminate in hooded foliage. The leaves resemble the heads of cobras and they serve a specialized function. The habitat of these plants is poor in nutrients and they use those hooded leaves to gather fuel through digested insects. The hood secretes an attractive scent, which entices unsuspecting prey to enter. Once inside, they have difficulty getting back out and the plant secretes digestive enzymes, which break down the animal matter. Unlike other pitcher plants, complete cobra lily information needs to include the fact that their hoods are not open and they do not collect rainwater to trap and drown their prey.
How to Grow a Cobra Lily The cobra lily pitcher plants need warm temperatures, full sun and cold water to cool their roots. These conditions are hard to come by in all but a natural bog. However, if you can provide these circumstances, the plant may still be hard to come by. Darlingtonia pitchers are not as commercially available as Sarracenia pitcher plants. If you do get lucky, a container garden is probably your best bet. Plant it in a high percentage of peat with just a little fine bark and garden sand. Flush the roots daily with fresh water and move it to shelter if temperatures are higher than 100 degrees Fahrenheit (37 C.). The ideal temperature range is 70 to 80 F. (21-26 C.) and they are hardy in USDA zones 7 to 10. If you get a hold of seeds, they will need stratification for four weeks in the refrigerator. Surface sow the seeds and keep the pot moist with a plastic bag over the container to conserve water.
Cobra Lily Care Moisture is the most important part of cobra lily care. Use rainwater if possible, or purchase spring water because the plants are sensitive to excess minerals and chemicals in tap water. You can cut back any dead stems and leaves as needed. They do not need fertilizing and will ingest most insect pests. The biggest disease issue is fungal, but keeping water off the leaves will usually prevent any heavy spore activity. The plant can take a brief freeze if it is dormant but you should move it to a sheltered location such as a cold frame if the freeze is weeks long.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ponytail bonsai plants are an interesting addition to any home décor and can be grown indoors or out (during the warm season). This lovely bonsai is native to Mexico. The ponytail palm bonsai tree is great a great low-maintenance option for the bonsai enthusiast or even for those that are new to bonsai plants. Bonsai ponytail palms are unique and have a trunk that resembles an elephant’s foot and cascading foliage. For this reason, this hardy plant is sometimes called “Elephants Foot.” The trunk is extremely practical and will hold enough water for four weeks.
Ponytail Palm Bonsai Care Ponytail palm bonsai care does not differ much from that of any ponytail palm tree. This bonsai plant likes lots of sun but not for an extended amount of time. Some afternoon shade is best, especially if grown outdoors. Many people kill ponytail bonsai plants by overwatering. Careful attention to keeping the soil moist but not overly saturated will help to prevent this from happening. It is generally necessary to repot the ponytail palm bonsai tree once every 3 years.
How to Prune Ponytail Palm Bonsai Plants Trimming ponytail palms can be done any time of the year but is best during the growing season of spring through early fall. Use clean and sharp bonsai shears to trim leaves on top of the plant. This will force the foliage to grow downward and resemble a ponytail. Remove any damaged leaves that may be brown or wilted. Be sure that you are sitting at eye level with the plant and take a break often to check your work so that you do not trim too much away.
If cuts become brown or tattered looking after trimming ponytail palms, you can apply some pruning paint. This will encourage healing of your ponytail bonsai palms.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月19日
Dummer. ゛☀
Ponytail palm plants are useful in the tropical to semi-tropical exterior landscape or as a potted specimen for the home. The palms develop pups, or side shoots, as they mature. These smaller versions of the parent plant are easy to divide away from the mother palm. Propagating ponytail palm pups will give you new little palms to share with friends and family or just provide you with another source of this attractive ornamental succulent.
About Ponytail Palm Plants Another name for this plant is elephant’s foot palm due to its thick, roughly skinned trunk. It is in the same family as agave plants and native to southeastern scrub desserts of Mexico. It is not a true palm but a succulent, which saves moisture in the trunk. In times of drought, the trunk will shrink in diameter and get slightly shriveled bark. When the rainy season arrives, it sucks up and stores as much moisture as it can and the trunk swells markedly. It is not a hardy plant in cooler zones and can sustain damage to the roots and trunk in excessively wet soils. As a container plant, ponytail palm care is minimal and the plant thrives on long periods of neglect. The palm is slow growing but may get up to 30 feet in its native habit, although it is more likely to be less than 10 feet in captivity.
Ponytail Palm Shoots This lively little plant produces side pups as a method of propagating itself. Once the palm has matured, it begins to grow smaller versions of itself that sprout from the base of the mother. Removing pups from ponytail palms is the easiest way to grow more of the succulent palm. Ponytail palm shoots divide easily from the parent plant and then require rooting to produce viable plants.
Propagating Ponytail Palm Pups Spring is the best time to divide ponytail palm shoots. Carefully excavate around the base of the parent plant to expose the base of the pups. Use a clean, sharp knife and cut the pup away from the adult plant. Pups that are 4 inches tall are usually forming a root base and make the best starts. Use a nearly soilless medium, such as a cactus mix or sand-based potting soil. Place the rooted end of the pup in moistened medium in a well-draining container. Cover the container with a plastic bag lightly secured around the edges of the pot. Place the container in a warm room in moderate light. Every few days, uncover the pot and mist the surface of the soil. Ponytail Palm Care For Newly Potted Pups Provided soil drainage is adequate and you do not overwater the palm, this plant is remarkably unfussy. The plant only needs water every two weeks or so and you can completely suspend watering in the winter months. Cut off damaged or diseased foliage as it occurs and repot every 2 to 3 years. Optimum temperatures for ponytail palm plants are 70 to 80 F. (21 to 27 C.), but they do quite well in average home interior temperatures.
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