文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月26日
Water lilies (Nymphaea spp.) are the perfect finishing touches for a garden pool or pond, adding practicality as well as beauty to a water feature. Fish use them as hiding places to escape predators and as shady retreats from the hot summer sun. Plants growing in a pond help keep the water clean and aerated, so you’ll spend less time on pond maintenance. Let’s take a look at how to grow a water lily.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
Water lily plants can be divided into two types:
Hardy – Hardy types are best for northern climates where the water freezes in winter. As long as the roots of hardy specimens are below the level where the water freezes, they will reappear the following spring. Tropical – Tropical water lilies won’t survive in cold water and must be brought indoors for winter in all but the warmest areas. Many growers treat them as annuals, replanting them each year. Otherwise, remove them from the pond, clean them up, and store them in a bucket of moist sand in a cool basement before the first freeze. Tropical water lily plants can be further divided into two groups: day bloomers and night bloomers. White night bloomers look spectacular with nothing more than moonlight to illuminate them, but blues, purples, reds and pinks are very difficult to see in the dark. Avoid these colors unless the pond is illuminated by artificial light at night.
How to Grow a Water Lily
A pond or pool covered in water lilies is attractive, but complete coverage prevents light from penetrating into the water, choking out other plant and animal life. Growing water lilies in containers helps keep them from spreading and taking over a small pond and it makes water lily care much easier. When you are growing water lilies, use a large plastic pot with several holes punched in the sides and bottom. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the top with silt, loam or clay soil and mix in a small amount of slow-release fertilizer labeled for use with aquatic soil. Plant the rhizome close to one side of the pot at a 45-degree angle with the eye pointing up. Cover the soil with a layer of pea gravel, keeping the gravel away from the top of the rhizome as much as possible. The gravel keeps the soil from floating off or washing out of the pot.
Place the pot in the bottom of the pond, adjusting the depth to that recommended for your specific variety. Most call for a depth of between 6 and 18 inches. If necessary, you can raise the depth by placing the pot on top of rocks.
NOTE: For those having fish in their water garden, water lilies should NOT be potted in regular potting soil, as this contains a lot of organic material that will eventually rot and foul the water. Remove any rotting organic material from your pond or water garden, as this is a breeding ground for anaerobic bacteria and pathogens and may add unwanted excess nutrients to feed algae blooms. Instead, pot water lilies, and any other pond plant, in a heavy clay soil and cover with fist sized rock, and then river rock to prevent fish from rooting around in the pot and sending the planting medium into the pond. A few simple preventative steps up front are far easier to take than trying to treat sick and dying fish later.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
This broomrape is localised in parts of the Mediterranean and is parasitic on woody Goosefoots of the Chenopodiaceae family.
Cistanche phelypaea is one of the approximately 150 species of the Broomrape family that occur in the Mediterranean region. It grows in lowland areas, often in damp estuary sand habitats, but it is both rare and localised.
Identification
An impressive wildflower, Cistanche phelypaea grows up to 40cm in height, but this varies depending on the habitat and position of the plant - some can be much shorter. The flowers are big and bright yellow with a five-lobed corolla, while the leaves are much smaller and scale-like in appearance.
Distribution
Cistanche phelypaea grows in Portugal, Spain, Crete, Cyprus, Turkey, and in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region.
Blooming times
Cistance phellypaea blooms in March and April.
Cistanche phelypaea is one of the approximately 150 species of the Broomrape family that occur in the Mediterranean region. It grows in lowland areas, often in damp estuary sand habitats, but it is both rare and localised.
Identification
An impressive wildflower, Cistanche phelypaea grows up to 40cm in height, but this varies depending on the habitat and position of the plant - some can be much shorter. The flowers are big and bright yellow with a five-lobed corolla, while the leaves are much smaller and scale-like in appearance.
Distribution
Cistanche phelypaea grows in Portugal, Spain, Crete, Cyprus, Turkey, and in the eastern part of the Mediterranean region.
Blooming times
Cistance phellypaea blooms in March and April.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月06日
BOTANICAL NAME: Cucumis Sativus
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
PLANT TYPE: Vegetable
SUN EXPOSURE: Full Sun
SOIL TYPE: Loamy
SOIL PH: Neutral
An easy-care vegetable that loves sun and water, cucumbers grow quickly as long as they receive consistent watering. Most varieties will grow in any amount of space, thanks to the plant’s ability to climb. Of course, these prolific veggies are perfect for pickling!
There are two types of cucumber plants: vining cucumbers and bush cucumbers. The most common varieties grow on vigorous vines shaded by large leaves. The growth of these plants is fast, and the crop yield is abundant if you care for them properly. Vining varieties grow up a trellis or fence. They will be cleaner—versus those that grow atop soil—often more prolific, and easier to pick.
Bush cucumbers are, however, nicely suited to containers and small gardens. Make successive plantings (every two weeks for continued harvests). In already-warm summer soil, cucumbers will grow quickly and ripen in about six weeks!
If you’re interested in making pickles, we recommend several prolific varieties below that are bred especially for pickling, such as heirloom ‘Boston Pickling’. For crispy pickles, be sure to prepare them within a few hours of harvesting!
PLANTING
Cucumber plants are seeded or transplanted outside in the ground no earlier than 2 weeks after last frost date. Cucumbers are extremely susceptible to frost damage; the soil must be at least 70ºF for germination. Do not plant outside too soon!
Before you plant outside, select a site with full sun.
Soil should be neutral or slightly alkaline with a pH of 7.0.
Cucumbers require fertile soil. Mix in compost and/or aged manure before planting to a depth of 2 inches and work into the soil 6 to 8 inches deep. Make sure that soil is moist and well-drained, not soggy.
Improve clay soil by adding organic matter. Improve dense, heavy soil by adding peat, compost or rotted manure. (Get a soil test if you are unsure of your soil type; contact your local county cooperative extension.) Light, sandy soils are preferred for northern gardens, as they warm quickly in the spring.
Plant seedlings one inch deep and about 36 to 60 inches apart, depending on variety. For vines trained on a trellis, space plants 1 foot apart.
For an early crop, start cucumber seeds indoors about 3 weeks before you transplant them in the ground. They like bottom heat of about 70ºF (21ºC). If you don’t have a heat mat, put the seeds flat on top of the refrigerator or perch a few on top of the water heater.
If you live in the cooler climates, you can help warm the soil by covering the hill or row with black plastic.
Once the ground is warm, mulch with pine straw, chopped leaves, or another organic mulch to keep pests at bay, and also keep bush types off the ground to avoid disease.
A trellis is a good idea if you want the vine to climb, or if you have limited space. Trellising also protects the fruit from damage from lying on the moist ground.
CARE
The main plant care requirement for cucumbers is water—consistent watering! They need one inch of water per week (more if temperatures are sky high). Put your finger in the soil and when it is dry past the first joint of your finger, it is time to water. Inconsistent watering leads to bitter-tasting fruit.
Water slowly in the morning or early afternoon, avoiding the leaves so that you don’t get leaf diseases which will ruin the plant. If possible, water your cucumbers with a soaker hose or drip irrigation to keep the foliage dry.
Mulch to hold in soil moisture.
Cover seeds with netting or a berry basket if you have pests; this will keep them from digging out the seeds.
When seedlings emerge, begin to water frequently, and increase to a gallon per week after fruit forms.
When seedlings reach 4 inches tall, thin plants so that they are 1½ feet apart.
If you’ve worked organic matter into the soil before planting, you may only need to side-dress your plants with compost or well-rotted manure.
If you wish, use a liquid fertilizer from your garden store such as vegetable plant food which is low nitrogen/high potassium and phosphorus formula. Apply at planting, 1 week after bloom, and every 3 weeks, directly to the soil around the plants. Or, you can work a granular fertilizer into the soil. Do not over-fertilize or the fruits will get stunted.
If you have limited space or would prefer vertical vines, set up trellises early to avoid damage to seedlings and vines.
Spray vines with sugar water to attract bees and set more fruit.
PESTS/DISEASES
If your cucumber plants do not set fruit, it’s not usually a disease. There is probably a pollination issue. The first flowers were all male. Both female and male flowers must be blooming at the same time. This may not happen early in the plant’s life, so be patient. (Female flowers are the ones with a small cucumber-shaped swelling at the base that will become the fruit.)
Lack of fruit may also be due to poor pollination by bees, especially due to rain or cold temperatures, or insecticides. To rest assured, you could always hand pollinate. (Dip a Q-tip into the male pollen and transfer it to the center of the female flower.)
Remember, gynoecious hybrids require pollinator plants.
Squash bugs may attack seedlings.
Aphids are always a nuisance for any vegetable plant but easily managed.
Powdery mildew can be a problem if the leaves get wet (water at the soil level). Apply fungicides at the first sign of its presence.
Cucumber Beetles may attack the vines and can cause disease.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年07月31日
Family - Berberidaceae
Stems - To -1.5m tall, woody, multiple from base, erect to prostrate, few branched, stoloniferous.
Leaves - Alternate, odd pinnate, evergreen. Leaflets typically 3-9, sessile, lance-ovate, serrate(teeth spinose), glabrous, dark green above, dull green to glaucous below, to +7cm long, +4cm broad, acute.
Inflorescence - Axillary and terminal racemes to 15cm long. Pedicels glabrous, elongating in fruit to +/-1.3cm long, subtended by one small bract to 4mm long.
Flowers - Petals 5-10, in 2-4 whorls, yellow, glabrous, 6-8mm long, 5mm broad, emarginate or obtuse. Stamens 6-10. Filaments to 3.5mm long glabrous. Ovary superior, green, glabrous. Stigma capitate. Style wanting. Sepals to 3mm long, 2mm broad, dense pubescent externally, with scarious margins, yellow.
Fruit - Globose to subglobose berry, blue-black, glaucous, to -1cm in diameter.
Flowering - May - July.
Habitat - Cultivated.
Origin - Native to U.S., cultivated in Missouri.
Other info. - This plant is native to the Northwestern U.S. where it grows in shaded forests. In Missouri the plant begins to bloom around May but in other states in can bloom throughout the year depending on the location. The berries are edible and are eaten by wildlife and humans alike. This is the state flower of Oregon. There are a few varieties in cultivation. Besides being eaten as a fruit,Mahonia has been used medicinally for centuries. The plant contains many alkaloids. Recently the plant has shown great promise in the treatment of psoriasis. Stay tuned.
Stems - To -1.5m tall, woody, multiple from base, erect to prostrate, few branched, stoloniferous.
Leaves - Alternate, odd pinnate, evergreen. Leaflets typically 3-9, sessile, lance-ovate, serrate(teeth spinose), glabrous, dark green above, dull green to glaucous below, to +7cm long, +4cm broad, acute.
Inflorescence - Axillary and terminal racemes to 15cm long. Pedicels glabrous, elongating in fruit to +/-1.3cm long, subtended by one small bract to 4mm long.
Flowers - Petals 5-10, in 2-4 whorls, yellow, glabrous, 6-8mm long, 5mm broad, emarginate or obtuse. Stamens 6-10. Filaments to 3.5mm long glabrous. Ovary superior, green, glabrous. Stigma capitate. Style wanting. Sepals to 3mm long, 2mm broad, dense pubescent externally, with scarious margins, yellow.
Fruit - Globose to subglobose berry, blue-black, glaucous, to -1cm in diameter.
Flowering - May - July.
Habitat - Cultivated.
Origin - Native to U.S., cultivated in Missouri.
Other info. - This plant is native to the Northwestern U.S. where it grows in shaded forests. In Missouri the plant begins to bloom around May but in other states in can bloom throughout the year depending on the location. The berries are edible and are eaten by wildlife and humans alike. This is the state flower of Oregon. There are a few varieties in cultivation. Besides being eaten as a fruit,Mahonia has been used medicinally for centuries. The plant contains many alkaloids. Recently the plant has shown great promise in the treatment of psoriasis. Stay tuned.
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文章
Mirella
2017年05月22日
Growing ginger in a pot is easy! It’s a great idea if you live in a cool temperate climate or you don’t have a plenty of space.
If you live in USDA Zone 9b and above or any other subtropical or tropical climates around the globe you can easily grow ginger as a perennial both on the ground and in a container year round. If you live below Zone 9b and down to USDA Zone 7b, please note that the leaves of the ginger plants growing outside on the ground will die but come back again after the winter. Below the Zone 7 or in any other cooler part you live, you may need to grow ginger in pots to keep the plant indoors in winters.
Ginger is a warm climate spice or herb, like garlic or turmeric, it is termed as SUPERFOOD. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-biotic properties. It’s ability to expedite the digestion power is well-known.
Growing Ginger in Pots
Growing ginger roots is easy, find or purchase fresh ginger rhizomes (roots), measuring almost 3 to 5 inches. Look for pieces with growth buds or eyes. These little green buds look similar to that of potatoes. Store-bought ginger is sometimes treated with growth retardant chemicals so it’s a good idea that you keep the rhizomes in water overnight or for a few hours.
Planting and Propagation
The best time to start growing ginger is spring, however, if you live in a frost-free warm climate you can try to grow ginger in container anytime but the best time is an early wet season.
Plant the rhizomes (2-3 cm) 1 inch deep in the potting soil with the buds facing upwards. Ginger plants will start to emerge in a couple of weeks. It is noted that the ginger plants gets up to four to five feet tall.
Choosing a Pot
For growing ginger, choose a medium sized 14-15 inches pot that is deep rather than shallow to provide the ample space to roots to grow.
Requirements for Growing Ginger in PotPosition
In its natural climate, ginger is known to be gro
wn in partial sun, so it’s a good idea that you keep your pot in a spot that receives full sun but shade in afternoon. However, if you live in a really cold climate keep the plant in a sunny spot.
Soil
Loose, well drained, and sandy-loamy soil that is rich in compost is best for growing ginger indoors or outdoors in a pot. Soil that blocks the moisture must be avoided.
Watering
The ginger plant requires deep and regular watering as it prefers slightly moist soil. However, it should be noted that overwatering and waterlogging may thwart the growth and cause the root rot. Also, watering should be reduced in winter.
Temperature
As ginger prefers a warm climate it can’t tolerate drafts and cold temperature, it is advised to keep your ginger plants indoors when the temperature starts to dip below the level of 50 F (10 C).
Plant Care
It requires to cut off a finger and ensure that the section is at least 2 inches in length. Then the cut pieces are dried for a couple of days in a warm place before putting them in ground.
Fertilizer
Ginger requires soil that is rich in organic matter, you can top the pot with compost or well-rotted manure. Additionally, you can apply all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season.
Pests and Diseases
Pests including white grub, shoot borer, shoot boring weevil attack the ginger plant. It is also attacked by bacterial wilt, soft rot, dry rot and leaf spot viruses. It is highly recommended to keep the plant safe from these diseases and pests.
Harvesting
Your ginger roots are going to get ready for harvest within 8-10 months, once the leaves start to become yellow.
If you live in USDA Zone 9b and above or any other subtropical or tropical climates around the globe you can easily grow ginger as a perennial both on the ground and in a container year round. If you live below Zone 9b and down to USDA Zone 7b, please note that the leaves of the ginger plants growing outside on the ground will die but come back again after the winter. Below the Zone 7 or in any other cooler part you live, you may need to grow ginger in pots to keep the plant indoors in winters.
Ginger is a warm climate spice or herb, like garlic or turmeric, it is termed as SUPERFOOD. It has anti-inflammatory and anti-biotic properties. It’s ability to expedite the digestion power is well-known.
Growing Ginger in Pots
Growing ginger roots is easy, find or purchase fresh ginger rhizomes (roots), measuring almost 3 to 5 inches. Look for pieces with growth buds or eyes. These little green buds look similar to that of potatoes. Store-bought ginger is sometimes treated with growth retardant chemicals so it’s a good idea that you keep the rhizomes in water overnight or for a few hours.
Planting and Propagation
The best time to start growing ginger is spring, however, if you live in a frost-free warm climate you can try to grow ginger in container anytime but the best time is an early wet season.
Plant the rhizomes (2-3 cm) 1 inch deep in the potting soil with the buds facing upwards. Ginger plants will start to emerge in a couple of weeks. It is noted that the ginger plants gets up to four to five feet tall.
Choosing a Pot
For growing ginger, choose a medium sized 14-15 inches pot that is deep rather than shallow to provide the ample space to roots to grow.
Requirements for Growing Ginger in PotPosition
In its natural climate, ginger is known to be gro
wn in partial sun, so it’s a good idea that you keep your pot in a spot that receives full sun but shade in afternoon. However, if you live in a really cold climate keep the plant in a sunny spot.
Soil
Loose, well drained, and sandy-loamy soil that is rich in compost is best for growing ginger indoors or outdoors in a pot. Soil that blocks the moisture must be avoided.
Watering
The ginger plant requires deep and regular watering as it prefers slightly moist soil. However, it should be noted that overwatering and waterlogging may thwart the growth and cause the root rot. Also, watering should be reduced in winter.
Temperature
As ginger prefers a warm climate it can’t tolerate drafts and cold temperature, it is advised to keep your ginger plants indoors when the temperature starts to dip below the level of 50 F (10 C).
Plant Care
It requires to cut off a finger and ensure that the section is at least 2 inches in length. Then the cut pieces are dried for a couple of days in a warm place before putting them in ground.
Fertilizer
Ginger requires soil that is rich in organic matter, you can top the pot with compost or well-rotted manure. Additionally, you can apply all-purpose fertilizer during the growing season.
Pests and Diseases
Pests including white grub, shoot borer, shoot boring weevil attack the ginger plant. It is also attacked by bacterial wilt, soft rot, dry rot and leaf spot viruses. It is highly recommended to keep the plant safe from these diseases and pests.
Harvesting
Your ginger roots are going to get ready for harvest within 8-10 months, once the leaves start to become yellow.
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文章
Gina
2017年03月15日
One of the easiest (and cheapest) ways to inject a bit of personality into any garden is to pump up the garden decor. Painting pots is easy, fast and really makes an impact of your outdoor spaces. Here are three tips for painting pots, and a bunch of great projects with instructions, and inspiration!
Painting Pots Tips
Choose the same style for all your painted pots within the same garden. If half your pots are formal and the other half are whimsical (although there is always room for some crossover) then your outdoor spaces will seem disjointed. Keep in mind the same decorating principles you use indoors…tie the pots together by style or color.
Follow the instructions for prepping your pots properly. (Then say that ten times fast.) Outdoor painting projects can deteriorate quickly if they are done lazily…it’s worth the extra step.
Consider sealing your painted pots with an outdoor grade clear sealer. Same reason as prepping properly!
Enjoy!
Our first project from The Lovely Cupboard are DIY paint dipped pots… Easy, and really cool, she has step by step instructions for you.
Since dipped pots seem so popular right now, we thought you would like this neon dipped pot project from Hello Bee.
We really like this project from Amanda at Wit & Whistle. Here’s how she did it.
From Sunset, Terra Cotta Dress Ups! You could do these in any color combo, but I like the idea of keeping it to one color with a neutral, or two colors for a more lively look. Any more than that and it will be a very “busy” project! I especially love this project because it’s done in my favorite colors!
From A Beautiful Mess, I really like how they also painted the inside of these Color Block Terra Cotta Pots!
These very cute chalkboard flowerpots are from Fiskars, and they have really good instructions and step by step photos. Very crafty!
These DIY terra cotta plant pots from Dellie are simple and colorful, and I love this idea.
These golden fall planters from A Night Owl Blog don’t need to wait for fall as far as I’m concerned! What a great project for bringing some of the metallic trend into the garden.
Last on our list, this Raku look pot was created with spray paint! Find out how here.
Get crafting for the garden, what better time of year for it?
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