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Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Miss Chen
Many species of hibiscus plants or shrubs exist, some of which are perennial or hardy and others are tropical hibiscuses that are grown as annuals or as houseplants in nontropical hardiness zones where winters consist of several months of subfreezing temperatures. Hibiscuses are very fast-growing plants, so splitting or dividing them at the root is an effective way to promote new and healthier growth and provide plants with more room to spread out. Hibiscus Types
Tropical hibiscuses are characterized by their dark-green, almost glossy leaf color and flowers in bright colors such as orange, yellow and red. These hibiscuses are not hardy in places where freezes last longer than a few hours. Hardy or perennial hibiscuses tolerate freezing temperatures, and with the exception of rose of Sharon, a variety of hibiscus that flowers off the previous year's woody growth, these plants die down to the ground at winter. Why Divide Hibiscuses?
Hibiscuses are fast-growing shrubs known for their deep and extensive root systems. Typical indicators that plants need dividing include sparse foliage at the bottom of plants, bare spots in the center and fewer blooms and smaller flowers. These are indications that the massive root ball is not able to provide sufficient nourishment to all parts of the plant. When to Divide
The general rule regarding the division of perennials is that perennials that bloom in spring and summer are divided in fall, and perennials that bloom in fall are divided in spring. Most perennials require dividing every three to five years. Hibiscuses are a bit different because in warmer climates, hardy hibiscuses can bloom from spring until frost, and in tropical areas, tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) may bloom year-round. Ideally, you should not divide plants when they are flowering. Most perennial hardy hibiscuses generate new growth in spring, so the best time to divide them is early in spring just after the first new growth emerges. Because rose of Sharon (Hibiscus syriacus) plants develop new growth and bloom off the previous year's woody stems, divide these plants in fall once they finish blooming and begin to enter dormancy. Divide tropical hibiscuses when they are not blooming or when dormant when grown as houseplants. How to Divide
To divide hibiscuses planted in the ground, dig deep into the ground so you can remove the entire root ball from the planting hole. Extensive root systems will likely render container-grown plants root or pot bound. Tap the bottom of the pot to free the root ball from the pot. Once the plants are out of the ground or container, spray the root ball with water to remove as much soil as possible. Use a sharp pruning knife or saw to cut the root ball into smaller divisions. Plant the newly divided plant sections immediately and water deeply. Continue to water regularly to ensure that new divisions establish themselves.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Miss Chen
Coneflowers, or Echinacea purpurea, are perennial flowering plants named for their mounded, cone-shaped flowers. Native to the United States, coneflower varieties typically grow throughout the central and eastern regions of the U.S. Favored for their garden versatility, coneflower cultivars offer blooms in shades of white, pink, purple or yellow. Established coneflowers spread through seeds and clumping.
Versatility Coneflowers open on tall stems surrounded by rag-leaf foliage. Part of the aster family, these flowers mature up to 4 ft. tall. They tolerate full sun, and thrive in cutting flower gardens with daisies, coreopsis, yarrow and other perennial flowers. Due to their deep tap root, coneflowers adapt to low water or xeriscape gardens. Scatter their seeds with wildflower blends for an easy-care border or fence garden. Coneflowers form a spreading clump that fits well into ornamental grasses in background plantings with shorter perennials, annuals or bedding plants in the foreground. As coneflowers mature and spread, they fill gaps where other flowers die back. Seeds Coneflowers spread by seeding. Flowers open in summer and bloom through autumn. The center cone, looking like a small hedgehog, matures and dries with seeds in the cone pods. In autumn, the small dry seeds naturally spill out on the ground, are scattered by wind or fall out as the plant dies back. Birds such as finches eat the seeds and scatter them in bird droppings. The seeds grow quickly in loose soil but also will root in poor soil or cracks in clay soil. The seeds winter over and germinate in spring. Clumps Coneflowers grow in clumps, growing outward from the central foliage mound and tap root. Coneflowers spread in clumps up to 2 ft. in diameter. This plant mass looks like one plant and must be divided every three to four years. If the clumping plants are not divided, the overcrowded roots do not reach the soil for enough nutrition and the plant declines. Divide the spreading coneflowers in spring or fall, digging up the clumps and cutting or hand-separating them into smaller clumps. Replant for new coneflowers, allowing room for the new plants to spread.
Considerations Sometimes coneflowers spread too easily. They scatter hundreds of seeds that take root in rich soil, invading other flower space. Deadhead the flowers and discard the heads to reduce self-sowing. Deadheading also encourages longer blooming seasons. The spreading, shaggy clumps look unkempt in some gardens. Add shorter flowers in front of the coneflowers or plant coneflowers among evergreens like rosemary and lavender plants. The perennial herbs blend with the coneflower clumps, minimizing their untidy look.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Miss Chen
Lady fern (Athyrium filix-femina) is part of a diverse group of ferns that populates natural woodland habitats around the globe. It's a sturdy addition to the woodland garden, too, thanks to the adaptations that allow it to grow well where other ferns might struggle.
Growth Habit Lady fern grows in circular clumps of fronds, each of which is up to 3 feet long and as much as 1 foot wide at its widest part. The plant spreads by sending out slow-growing underground rhizomes from which new plants emerge; over time, colonies of the plants form dense clumps up to 7 feet in diameter. The ability to spread in this way, which not all ferns possess, is an adaptation that allows the lady fern to reproduce asexually without fertilization from another plant. The clumps may be divided every few years in spring. Lady fern's growth habit is compact and manageable; it's not hard to keep it contained in a garden. If allowed to spread, however, it can function as a dense ground cover. Frond Form Lady fern's characteristic lacy appearance is the result of the complex structure of its fronds. Each frond consists of a central stem, or rachis, from which branch 20 or more lateral leaflets; the leaflets taper in length from wide at the bottom of the frond to narrow at the tip, giving the frond an overall wedge-shaped form. The leaflets are divided into 15 or more subleaflets, each of which is tapered in shape and serrated along its edges. The fern's numerous leaflets may help it tolerate fluctuations in temperature. Natural Habitat Lady fern is a native of northern regions of North America, Europe and Asia. In the United States, it is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 8. It is winter-hardy in those zones, but it drops its leaves and goes dormant after the first frost in fall, an adaptation that helps the plant survive cold temperatures. In the wild, it grows in forests, ravines, meadows and swamps where soils are consistently moist and rich in organic matter. In the garden, lady fern thrives in loamy soil that is well-drained but that does not dry out quickly. It also does well in soil that is slightly acidic, with a pH level below 6.8.
Sun and Drought Tolerance Most ferns perform best in shady locations with consistently humid conditions, and lady fern is no exception; it fares best when protected from sun exposure and drought. It is, however, better adapted to be tolerant of sunny, dry conditions than many other fern species, and it can handle being placed in an area that gets full sun as long the soil around its roots remains moist. Its long fronds may break if subjected to strong winds, though. So it is best grown in shelter provided by a nearby wall, hedge or other windbreak.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月07日
Miss Chen
Asparagus fern (Protasparagus densiflorus) is not a real fern, but an evergreen, perennial member of the lily family. Also referred to as emerald fern and foxtail fern, the plant is a native of South Africa. Asparagus fern is widely used as an ornamental plant for containers and as a groundcover. The plant has however escaped cultivation in many regions and is classified as an invasive weed. Asparagus ferns cannot be propagated with cuttings.
Propagation Method The recommended way to propagate new asparagus plants is with the use of seeds or by dividing the plants, as suggested by online plant resource Floridata. Though cuttings are a very commonly used method of plant propagation, it cannot be applied to the asparagus fern. The University of Missouri Extension also recommends propagating asparagus fern by division. Propagating by Division The best time to divide asparagus fern is during spring when the plant is growing actively. Prepare new pots for the new plants. Carefully slide out the plant from the containers. Using a sharp scissors, cut the root ball into multiple sections depending on the size of the plant. Each section should have a good number of roots, leaves and stems. Plant each section in individual pots and water well. Keep plants out of direct sunlight until the plants are established and growing well. Propagating with Seed Buy fresh seed from a reliable source and soak overnight in slightly warm water. Sow in a medium sized pot filled with a good potting soil. Do not sow very deep but just below the soil surface. Keep pot at room temperature. Asparagus fern seeds germinate very slowly with a germination time of a month or longer. For planting outdoors, start seeds 14 to 18 months prior to last frost date in the area. (Reference 5)
Growth Requirements Asparagus fern grows best in fertile, well-drained soil amended with humus. Plant in areas of full sun to deep shade. Plants tend to start yellowing if exposed to very hot sun. Water enough to keep soil consistently moist. Divide the plants every one to two years to maintain healthy growth. Prior to dividing, cut the stems to a length of about 6 inches to minimize long mingling stems.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial plant is a herbaceous vine that produces stems 2-4' long. The stems are usually glabrous, but are sometimes hairy where new growth occurs. The alternate leaves are 1-2' long and half as much across. They are often sagittate (arrowhead-shaped), but are variable and can assume other forms as well. Their margins are smooth and occasionally slightly ciliate. Long slender petioles connect the leaves with the stems. A slender flowering stalk may develop from the base of a petiole. This stalk occasionally branches and can produce 1-3 flowers. The corolla of a flower is funnelform in shape and up to 1" across; it is usually white, sometimes with light pink patterns. The 5 lobes of the corolla are very shallow and barely perceptible. Toward the throat of the corolla is a patch of yellow and the reproductive parts, consisting of 5 stamens and a pistil with a divided style. These reproductive parts are usually white, although the anthers may be pink or light purple in flowers with pink corollas. At the base of the flower, there are 5 green sepals that are much smaller than the corolla. Up to 1" below the base of a flower, there are a pair of small green bracts on the flowering stalk. The blooming period can occur from late spring to early fall, and can span several months, even though individual flowers persist for only a single day, usually opening during the morning and closing by late afternoon. A hairless and well-rounded seed capsule about ¼" long replaces each flower; each 2-celled capsule contains 4 seeds. These dark seeds are 3-angled and oblong, but tapering somewhat at the ends. Each seed usually has 2 flat sides and 1 convex side; it is about 1/8" long. The root system consists of a slender taproot that branches frequently; it can extend 20' into the ground. Rhizomes are also produced in abundance, so that this plant often forms vegetative colonies. Cultivation: Field Bindweed prefers full sunlight and mesic to dry conditions. It has considerable drought tolerance, and flourishes in poor soil that contains sand, gravel, or hardpan clay. It will also grow in moist fertile soil, but dislikes competition from taller plants. Eradication of this plant is difficult, as mechanical cultivation often spreads the rhizomes around, producing new plants. Because of the deep root system, it has been known to survive bulldozer operations. It can also persist in lawns, notwithstanding regular lawn-mowing. The application of broadleaf herbicides can be an effective control measure, if it is repeated as needed.
Range & Habitat: Field Bindweed is a common plant that has been reported from most counties in Illinois (see Distribution Map); it is native to Eurasia. This plant continues to spread and probably occurs in every county of the state. Habitats include lawns, gardens, fields, clay banks, areas along roadsides and railroads (including ballast), vacant lots, and miscellaneous waste areas. This plant occurs primarily in disturbed areas. Faunal Associations: Mostly long-tongued bees visit the flowers for nectar, including bumblebees and little carpenter bees (Ceratina spp.). In addition, specialist bees that are attracted to funnelform flowers also visit the flowers for nectar, including Melitoma taurea (Mallow Bee) and Cemolobus ipomoeae (Morning Glory Bee). The adults and larvae of several tortoise beetles are known to feed destructively on the foliage of Field Bindweed, including Charidotella sexpunctata (Golden Tortoise Beetle), Chelymorpha cassidea (Argus Tortoise Beetle), Deloyala guttata (Mottled Tortoise Beetle), and Jonthonota nigripes (Black-legged Tortoise Beetle). Other beetles that feed on this plant include Chaetocnema confinis (Sweet Potato Flea Beetle) and Typophorus nigritus (Sweet Potato Leaf Beetle); see Clark et al. (2004). The larvae of a sawfly, Sphacophilus cellularis, feed on the leaves of bindweeds (Convolvulus spp.), as do the larvae of several moths, including Bedellia somnulentella (Morning Glory Leafminer), Spragueia leo (Common Spragueia), Emmelina monodactyla (Morning Glory Plume Moth), and Agrius cingulatus (Pink-spotted Hawk Moth); see Smith (2006), Cranshaw (2004), Covell (1984/2005), and Wagner (2005). Field Bindweed is not a preferred food source for mammalian herbivores because the foliage is mildly toxic. Furthermore, there have been reports of the rootstocks poisoning swine. Photographic Location: Along a railroad in Urbana, Illinois. This plant is very common in the area. Comments: Field Bindweed is an attractive plant while it is in flower, but it can be very aggressive and persistent. The flowers are smaller in size than Calystegia sepium (Hedge Bindweed) and Ipomoea pandurata (Wild Sweet Potato). Its leaves are sagittate, while the leaves of Ipomoea pandurata (Wild Sweet Potato) and Ipomoea lacunosa (Small White Morning Glory) are cordate.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This perennial herbaceous plant consists of a pair of leaves that are nearly basal and a single raceme of flowers. The leaf blades are 5-10" long, 3-5" across, and more or less erect; they are oval-ovate in shape and smooth (entire) along their margins. Both the lower and upper leaf surfaces are medium to dark green, glabrous, and sometimes slightly glaucous. Leaf venation is parallel. The leaves taper into petioles about 1½–3" long that wrap around a short basal stalk that is partially underground. Between the leaves, there develops a raceme of flowers about 4-9" long. This raceme is shorter than the leaves and it tends to nod toward its apex; there are 6-16 flowers per raceme. The central stalk of the raceme is medium green, terete, somewhat slender, and glabrous. The nodding flowers usually occur along one side of the raceme from pedicels that are up to ½" long; these pedicels are light green, terete, and glabrous. At the bases of these pedicels, there are solitary floral bracts. These floral bracts are up to 8 mm. (1/3") long, light green to nearly white, and narrowly lanceolate to ovate in shape; they are shorter than the corresponding pedicels. The white corollas of these flowers are about 8 mm. (1/3") long and similarly across; they are campanulate (bell-shaped) with 6 short lobes that curve outward. Within the corolla of each flower, there are 6 stamens with short filaments and a single style with a tripartite stigma. The ovary of each flower has 3 cells. The blooming period occurs from late spring to early summer, lasting about 3 weeks. The flowers are quite fragrant. When the flowers are successfully cross-pollinated from the pollen of genetically distinct plants, they develop red berries that are 6-8 mm. across and globoid in shape (one berry per fertile flower). The interior of each berry is juicy, containing 1-6 seeds. These seeds are 3-4 mm. long and light brown with darker scar tissue at their bases; they are more or less ovoid in shape, but also rather irregular and chunky. In North America, most flowering plants fail to produce berries. The root system is fibrous and rhizomatous. Dense colonies of clonal plants are produced from the dense network of rhizomes; these colonies tend to exclude other species of plants.
Cultivation: The preference is dappled sunlight to medium shade, moist to mesic conditions, and a rich loamy soil with abundant organic material. Once it becomes established, this plant is long-lived, and it will spread slowly via its rhizomes. The leaves remain green throughout the summer until frost occurs during the autumn. Propagation of new plants is easiest by division of the rhizomes. If you want Lily-of-the-Valley to produce the attractive red berries, then you will need to plant genetically distinct plants in proximity to each other from two or more sources. Range & Habitat: Lily-of-the-Valley has escaped from cultivation primarily in NE Illinois (see Distribution Map), where it is uncommon in natural areas. This species was introduced into the United States from Europe as an ornamental plant; it is often grown in gardens because of the attractive foliage and flowers. In addition to the typical European variety that is described here (Convallaria majalis majalis), there is also a North American variety of Lily-of-the-Valley (Convallaria majalis montana) that is native to the region of the Appalachian mountains. However, this North American variety is cultivated much less often than the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley, and it has not naturalized in Illinois to anyone's knowledge. In Illinois, the European variety of Lily-of-the-Valley has naturalized in such habitats as tamarack bogs, rich deciduous woodlands, pioneer cemetery prairies, oak savannas near pioneer cemetery prairies, and abandoned homestead sites. At some of these habitats, Lily-of-the-Valley was deliberately introduced, where it has persisted for several decades, notwithstanding long neglect.
Faunal Associations: Bumblebees and honeybees collect pollen from the flowers of Lily-of-the-Valley; nectar may not be produced (Vandepitte, 2010; Müller 1873/1883). Among bumblebee species, Bombus vagans and Bombus pensylvanicus have been observed to visit the flowers (Mathews, 1912). Insects that feed on the foliage and other parts of this plant are limited in number. An insect that was accidentally introduced into North America from Europe, Lilioceris lilii (Lily Leaf Beetle), feeds on the leaves, while an aphid, Macrosiphum pechumani, sucks sap from this plant (Clark et al., 2004; Blackman & Eastop, 2013). The red berries probably attract birds and possibly some rodents, although because these berries are rarely produced in North America, it is unknown which species would consume them. According to Eriksson (1999), the seeds of these berries are eaten by voles and wood rats in Europe. Because all parts of Lily-of-the-Valley contain cardiac glycosides that are toxic, it is largely ignored by mammalian herbivores. Overall, the ecological value of this plant appears to be low.
Photographic Location: A wooded area at Meadowbrook Park in Urbana, Illinois, and a flower garden in the same city. Comments: In addition to its cultivation in gardens, Lily-of-the-Valley has economic significance in the perfume and pharmaceutical industries. For the latter, it has been used as a source of heart medication. There are two varieties of Lily-of-the-Valley: the typical European variety (Convallaria majalis majalis) and the North American variety (Convallaria majalis montana). This latter variety can be distinguished by its larger floral bracts (at least 10 mm. in length) and the fine green lines along the midribs of its tepals (the tepals have been joined together to form a bell-shaped corolla for each flower). As compared to the European variety, the North American variety also appears to be less aggressive in forming large dense colonies of clonal plants.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Miss Chen
Raceme of FlowersDescription: This annual plant is about 2-3' tall. It often produces 2 or 3 forking stems that are themselves little branched. These stems are round and pubescent, although with age they often become glabrous. The alternate leaves are sessile, palmately divided, and up to 3" long and across. Their lobes repeatedly subdivide into smaller lobes that are narrowly linear, providing the leaves with a lacy appearance. They are slightly pubescent and often have a silky appearance. The stems terminate into spike-like racemes of blue-violet flowers. These racemes can be up to 1' in length. Each flower is about 2" across, consisting of 5 petal-like sepals, 4 petals, a single pistil, and some stamens with light blue anthers. The upper sepal forms a hood in front and an upward-curving spur in back about 1" long. The middle and lower sepals are well-rounded and spreading. The 2 upper petals form a protective inner hood of the reproductive organs; they are not fused together. The 2 lower petals form a V-shaped landing pad for visiting insects. The outer sepals are larger in size than the inner petals. At the base of each flower is a slender pedicel about 1" long. The blooming period occurs during the summer and lasts about 1-2 months. Each flower is replaced by a pubescent follicle containing numerous small black seeds. These seeds are small enough to be dispersed by gusts of wind. The root system is a slender branching taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself, and may form colonies at favorable sites, although it usually doesn't persist. Cultivation: The preference is full sunlight, moist to mesic conditions, and a loamy fertile soil. This plant develops quickly, shooting up like a rocket, hence the common name. However, in poor soil and droughty conditions, growth will be stunted. Range & Habitat: Rocket Larkspur is an occasional plant that has been reported from scattered counties in Illinois, except in the NW area of the state (see Distribution Map). Habitats consist of areas along railroads and roadsides, banks of drainage ditches, abandoned fields, vacant lots, and flower gardens. There is a strong preference for disturbed areas; it does not appear to invade higher quality natural habitats to any significant extent, at least in Illinois. Rocket Larkspur originated from the Mediterranean area of Europe; it was introduced into the United States as an ornamental plant. Faunal Associations: Long-tongued bees pollinate the flowers, especially bumblebees. Butterflies may visit the flowers occasionally, but they are unlikely to be effective at pollination. The larvae of a fly, Phytomyza delphinivora, mine the leaves of Consolida spp. (larkspurs), and the caterpillars of a polyphagous moth, Megalographa biloba (Bilobed Looper Moth), also feed on the foliage (Cranshaw, 2004; Wagner, 2005). Because of the presence of an alkaloid, delphinine, both the foliage and small seeds are quite toxic. Therefore, they are of little value as a food source to birds and mammals. Like the closely related Delphinium spp. (delphiniums), the larkspurs occasionally poison livestock. Photographic Location: The lower bank of a large drainage ditch in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: Rocket Larkspur produces attractive flowers on long spike-like racemes, therefore it is not surprising that this species is grown in flower gardens, from which it occasionally escapes. Unlike the Delphiniums, which are perennial plants, the Consolida spp. (Larkspurs) are annual plants. While the flower of a Delphinium has 3 pistils, the flower of a Larkspur has only a single pistil. The only other Larkspur that escapes into the wild in Illinois is Consolida regalis (Forking Larkspur). This is another introduced plant from the Mediterranean area of Europe that is less commonly encountered than Rocket Larkspur. Its flowers are often a lighter shade of blue-violet than Rocket Larkspur, and the upper petals of its flowers are fused together. The follicles (seed capsules) of Forking Larkspur are glabrous, while the follicles of Rocket Larkspur are pubescent.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This is a biennial plant. During the 1st year, it consists of a rosette of basal leaves spanning about ¾–1½' across. During the 2nd year, it produces a flowering stalk that becomes 3-7' tall, branching occasionally above. The stems are round, glabrous, light green, and purple-spotted; they often appear to be ribbed because of longitudinal veins. The alternate leaves are up to 18" long and 12" across, becoming smaller as they ascend the stems. They are double or triple pinnately compound, triangular-ovate in outline, and hairless. These leaves have a fern-like appearance and a somewhat filmy upper surface. The basal and lower leaves have long petioles, while the upper leaves have shorter petioles. The base of each petiole is partially covered by a sheath. The ultimate leaflets of the compound leaves are about 1/3" (8 mm.) long, lanceolate to ovate in shape, pinnately cleft or dentate, and hairless. The upper stems terminate in compound umbels of small white flowers. These compound umbels span about 2-5" across and consist of about 8-16 umbellets. Each umbellet consists of about 12-25 flowers. Individual flowers span only 1/8" (3 mm.) across when they are fully open. Each flower has 5 white obcordate petals, 5 spreading white stamens, and a white nectar pad in the center. At the base of the compound umbel are several floral bracts that are ovate-lanceolate with elongated tips; there are also several bractlets at the base of each umbel. These bractlets are ovate-lanceolate like the bracts, but smaller in size. The blooming period occurs from late spring to mid-summer and lasts about 1-2 months. Each flower is replaced by a schizocarp that is broadly ovate and somewhat flattened; it has several longitudinal ribs that are wavy. The root system consists of a white taproot. This plant spreads by reseeding itself; it often forms colonies at favorable sites.
Cultivation: The preference is full sun to light shade, moist conditions, and a fertile loamy soil. Most vegetative growth occurs during the spring. After blooming and developing seeds, the foliage turns yellow and withers away later in the summer. In removing this plant from a given area, don't pull it out using your bare hands. It is better to wear washable gloves while hand-pulling a limited number of plants. For large areas of infestation, it is best to apply broadleaf herbicides or mow down the plants during the spring shortly before they develop flowers. Range & Habitat: Poison Hemlock is a common plant that occurs in many areas of Illinois, except for scattered counties in north and south (see Distribution Map). This plant is undoubtedly more common than official records indicate and it is still spreading to new areas of the state. Poison Hemlock is native to Europe and the Middle East, and it was introduced into North America either accidentally or deliberately.
Habitats include edges of degraded wetlands and prairies, low-lying areas along small rivers, banks of drainage ditches, thickets, woodland borders, fence rows, low-lying areas along railroads and roads, pastures, and abandoned fields. This plant is usually found in disturbed areas, but it occasionally invades native habitats. Faunal Associations: The nectar of the flowers attracts a wide variety of flies, beetles, sawflies, and wasps, including Ichneumonid and other parasitoid wasps. Caterpillars of the butterfly, Papilio polyxenes asterius (Eastern Black Swallowtail), feed on the foliage, notwithstanding its extreme toxicity (personal observation). This toxicity is the result of the alkaloid coniine and other chemicals, which can be found in all parts of Poison Hemlock, including the seeds and roots. Another insect, Orthops scutellatus (Carrot Plant Bug), eats the seeds of this plant and other members of the Carrot family (Knight, 1941). Poison Hemlock is also a summer host plant of several aphids, including Dysaphis apiifolia (Hawthorn-Parsley Aphid), Hyadaphis foeniculi (Fennel Aphid), and Hyadaphis passerinii (Honeysuckle Aphid); see Blackman & Eastop (2013). Mammalian herbivores won't touch the foliage because of its bitter rank odor and extreme toxicity. Just a small portion of the ingested plant can be fatal to humans.
Comments: The ancient Athenians used the juices of this plant to execute their prisoners, including Socrates during 399 B.C. Death is caused by respiratory arrest and heart failure. Poison Hemlock is a tall and imposing plant that appears to be increasingly common. Many people walk past this species without even realizing what it is. Because there are many members of the Carrot family with small white flowers, it can be somewhat difficult to correctly identify this plant. Poison Hemlock has the following key features: 1) it is often tall-growing, 1) the foliage is at least double pinnate and fern-like in appearance, 2) the foliage has a bitter rank odor, especially when it is bruised, 3) the hairless stems have purple spots, 4) there are undivided bracts at the base of the compound umbel and undivided bractlets at the base of the umbellets, and 5) the small leaflets are pinnately cleft or dentate. Other members of the Carrot family lack one or more of these key features.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月06日
Miss Chen
Description: This plant is a summer annual about 1-3' long. It can be erect or sprawl across the ground like a vine. The round stems are smooth and hairless. The hairless alternate leaves are up to 5" long and 2" across. They are ovate, lanceolate-ovate, or slightly cordate. Their margins are smooth and their veins run parallel to each other. The base of each leaf is sessile or clasping, and it has a membranous sheath that wraps around the stem. This sheath is about 1" long and has green longitudinal veins, otherwise it is white or greenish white. The upper edge of the sheath is usually hairless, although it has fine upright hairs for an uncommon variety of this species. Occasionally, a single flower on a stalk about 1-2" long is produced from the leaf axils. This flower is about ½–1" across, consisting of 2 large blue petals, 1 small white petal, 3 sepals, 5-6 stamens, and a long white style. The sepals are usually pale white and translucent. The upper stamens have showy yellow anthers; they are sterile, but help to attract insects to the flower. The lower stamens are longer than the upper stamens and fertile, although their anthers are less showy. An upturned spathe that lies underneath the flower is green and about 1-2" long. The upper margins of this spathe are free all the way to the base. The blooming period occurs from mid-summer to early fall, and lasts about 1-2 months. Each flower blooms during the morning for a single day, hence the common name. There is no noticeable floral scent. Each flower is replaced by a seed capsule that has 2 cells, each cell containing 2 seeds. These seeds are dark brown or black and have a surface that is bumpy and rough (rugose). The root system is fibrous. This plant can root at the leaf nodes on moist ground, forming new plants vegetatively. At favorable sites, the Asiatic Dayflower forms colonies that can exclude other species of plants.
Cultivation: Partial sun, moist to mesic conditions, and a fertile soil that is loamy or slightly sandy are preferred. This plant also tolerates full sun and light shade. Occasionally, it can spread aggressively and become a pest. Range & Habitat: The Asiatic Dayflower is a common plant that occurs in most counties of Illinois (see Distribution Map). It appears to be spreading into all areas of the state. Habitats include edges of floodplain forests, thickets, edges of gardens and yards, areas along buildings, fence rows, vacant lots, and waste areas. This plant prefers disturbed areas, although it occasionally invades natural areas. As the common name implies, it was introduced into the United States from East Asia, probably for horticultural purposes.
Faunal Associations: Primarily bees pollinate the flowers. The foliage is eaten by Neolema sexpunctata (Six-Spotted Beetle). Occasionally, the seeds are eaten by upland gamebirds and songbirds, including the Mourning Dove, Bobwhite, and Redwing Blackbird. The foliage of Dayflowers is a preferred food source of the White-Tailed Deer. Photographic Location: A small colony of Asiatic Dayflower was flourishing between the shrubbery of a commercial bank and a city sidewalk in Urbana, Illinois.
Comments: The flowers of this species have a "true blue" color that is found in few other plants. Usually, most "blue" flowers are closer to violet or purple. The Asiatic Dayflower has become the most common Commelina sp. (Dayflower) in Illinois for reasons that are not entirely clear. Like the native Commelina erecta (Erect Dayflower), its flowers have a small lower petal that is white, whereas the flowers of other Commelina spp. within the state have a lower petal that is blue or violet. The Erect Dayflower differs from the Asiatic Dayflower in a number of characteristics, including the following: 1) It has more narrow leaves than the latter; 2) The upper margins of each upturned spathe are united together about 1/3 the length of the spathe from the base, rather than running free from each other; 3) Each seed capsule has 3 cells containing 1 seed each, rather than 2 cells containing 2 seeds each; 4) It is a more erect plant than the latter; and 5) Its seeds are lighter-colored with a smooth surface, rather than dark and rugose.
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Miss Chen
2018年08月05日
Miss Chen
Grow a container of astilbe (Astilbe spp.), also called false spirea, for a splash of color in a shade garden or on a shady or partly sunny porch or patio. These plants grow anywhere from 6 to 36 inches tall and 12 to 24 inches wide, so you can find the right fit whether you want a compact variety for a small pot or a sprawling cultivar in a large planter. Astilbe grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9, with some variation depending species or cultivar. Varieties for Containers You can grow tall varieties for height in patio planters or pick one of the dwarf types for a more compact look.
Compact Cultivars to Grow in Pots Chinese astilbe 'Pumila' (_Astilbe chinensis_ 'Pumila') grows just 7 to 9 inches tall in part shade to full sun. This cultivar has pink flowers and grows in USDA zones 4 through 8. Chinese astilbe 'Finale' (_Astilbe chinensis _'Finale') is another pink-blooming, 8- to 12-inch-tall cultivar hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This astilbe prefers part shade to full sun. Dwarf astilbe 'Sprite' (_Astilbe simplicifolia_ 'Sprite') is also a pink-flowering astilbe ideal for even colder climates. It grows 10 to 12 inches tall in USDA zones 3 to 8. Full-Size Varieties for Containers The 'Red Sentinel' cultivar (_Astilbe japonica_ 'Red Sentinel') is a striking, bright-red astilbe that grows 24 inches tall in full shade to full sun. It is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. This sprawling cultivar grows 18 to 24 inches wide, making it ideal for large patio planters and half-barrel planters. The hybrid cultivar 'Bridal Veil' (_Astilbe x arendsii _'Bridal Veil (Brautschler)') is a sprawling white-flowering cultivar that grows 24 to 30 inches tall and wide. It grows in part shade to full sun and is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 8. Find the Right Container Three things to consider when picking out a pot for astilbe are size, drainage and material: Look for a planter 16 inches or more around and at least 12 inches deep. Bigger planters, like half barrels and large patio planters, allow you to plant even more astilbe together. Every container you use must have a drainage hole, and ideally more than one, to allow excess water to escape. Pots without holes in the bottom collect water, drowning the roots over time. Container material matters. Terra cotta and wood planters allow more air circulation than less porous materials. This helps prevent soggy soil and root rot problems. Metal containers are aesthetically pleasing, but in summer, the excess heat trapped in the metal can overheat the plant roots. Glazed ceramic and plastic work well without getting overly hot but can trap water. If you intend to move the container around, a lighter wood or plastic pot is best. Potting Soil Solutions Use a standard quality potting soil to fill the containers and skip the garden soil. If you want to make your own potting soil, try one of these recipes to make a light, porous, well-draining potting mix: Equal parts peat moss, sand, perlite, compost and composted bark chips. One part sand, one part perlite and two parts peat moss. Equal parts pine bark, peat moss and sand. Light, Water and Fertilizer Astilbe grow in full shade to sun, depending on the type. Full shade means no direct sunlight, whereas full sun is a spot that gets six hours or more of sun per day. If you're growing a grouping of astilbe together in a large planter, space small varieties 6 inches apart. For larger astilbe, set them 8 to 12 inches apart.
Water when the potting soil dries out 1 inch deep. In general plan to water twice a week, but you may have to water more often in hot weather to keep the soil from drying out and less often in wet weather so that the pots don't get overly saturated. At each session, apply the water slowly until you see it start to leak out the hole in the bottom of the pot. Fertilize twice a month beginning in the spring when the first new shoots appear. Stop fertilizing through the winter when astilbe go dormant. Use a liquid or water-soluble fertilizer. For each container, use 1 teaspoon of fertilizer mixed with 1 gallon of water.
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