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Miss Chen
2017年08月24日
Miss Chen

Nombre común o vulgar: Níscalos, Níscalo, Rovellón, Rovellons, Mízcalo Nombre científico o latino: Lactarius deliciosus Es una de las setas más populares y comunes en toda España. El sombrero mide de 5 a 15 cm de diámetro, primero convexo, después extendido y finalmente deprimido. El margen es involuto, sobre todo en los ejemplares jóvenes. La cutícula es lisa y de color naranja, con zonas rojizas. A veces se mancha de verde, sobre todo si se han producido heridas. Láminas decurrentes, de color anaranjado que pueden mancharse de verde. Esporada de color blanco crema. Pie corto, de 3-5 x 1-3 cm, cilíndrico, de color blanco debido a una pruína blanquecina que lo recubre, excepto en unas pequeñas depresiones de color naranja vivo, llamadas escrobículas. Carne granulosa y compacta, blanquecina hacia el centro y de color naranja hacia la periferia.
Usos culinarios: Carne suculenta. Utilizar sólo el sombrero. Cocinar a la parrilla (a la brasa) o prepararla íntegra en la sartén con perejil. La carne, de consistencia poco fibrosa, se resquebraja fácilmente durante la cocción, sobre todo si es prolongada, tendiendo a convertirse en una pasta poco apetecible. Tiene un sabor suavemente amargo. También se conserva en sal para utilizarlo fuera de temporada en la elaboración de los típicos guisos de carne con setas. Igualmente se conserva a la vinagreta y se utiliza como entrante o para acompañar un entremés. Suele guisarse con aceite de oliva, cebolla, ajo, vino blanco, harina y sal. Magnífico complemento de los guisos de carne. Excelente en guisos de caza (perdiz, conejo o liebre). Muy bueno en guiso con patatas y chorizo. Precios elevados debido a los costes de recolección y localización. Recolección: Aparecen fundamentalmente en otoño. Se encuentra bajo pinos. Búsquela en los pinares. Es bastante abundante en años lluviosos. El níscalo es una seta muy fácil de identificar. Posiblemente la especie que más se preste a confusión es Lactarius sanguifluus, de características similares, aunque de color más rojizo y al corte segrega látex de color vinoso. Es también comestible. Otra variedad que puede generar dudas es el Lactarius chrysorrheus, conocido como Falso níscalo, cuyo sombrero tiene mucho parecido con el Lactarius deliciosus, pero el látex blanco o amarillento sirve de identificación. Al recoger los rovellones hay que tener cuidado de no tocar las laminas para que no se oxiden.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Portulaca grandiflora, commonly called moss rose, grows as a colorful, spreading ground cover in beds, borders and containers. This annual flower grows readily from seed broadcast directly in the garden bed, or you can plant it from transplants in spring after frost danger has passed. Moss rose is related to the invasive annual weed purslane (Portulaca oleracea). Although the cultivated version doesn't spread as readily, it can also become invasive in some areas. The Right Location
Moss rose grows well in rocky, sandy soil that drains quickly. The plants spread fast, covering up to 12 inches of bed and growing about 6 inches tall. When adding plants to the garden, give moss rose the room it needs to reach its full spread and avoid planting tall plants nearby that may shade it. Moss rose spreads by self-seeding, so growing it in a site where you want it to return each year is the best choice. In mild, frost-free climates it sometimes becomes invasive and shouldn't be planted. A Little Drink
Although highly drought-tolerant, you will be rewarded with more flowers and lusher foliage if you water moss rose regularly. Provide about 1 inch of water weekly unless there is a comparable amount of rainfall. Container-grown plants may need daily watering, so water these when the top 1 inch of soil feels dry. Overhead watering, which wets the foliage, damages the flowers or causes them to drop prematurely. Water near the base of the plants so the flowers and leaves stay dry. Moss rose doesn't need fertilizers and can grow well in poor soil. Off With Their Heads
Regular deadheading serves two purposes: It removes the old flowers so they don't form seeds, and it cleans up the plants while encouraging more flowers. Grasp the stem behind the wilted flower and pinch it off, removing both the old bloom and the swollen seed-producing structure at the base of the flower. Moss rose flowers from midsummer through fall, so you may need to deadhead a few times a week. You can also trim back dead or damaged stems to a leaf or bud. Simply pinch off the stem or cut it off with shears that have been wiped with a cloth soaked with rubbing alcohol. Watch for Problems
Few pests or diseases bother moss rose. Aphids, small pear-shaped, sap-sucking insects, may sometimes feed on the foliage. Rinse them off with a sharp spray of water aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Root rot is an issue that will kill the plants in wet or poorly drained soil, but planting in the appropriate site prevents problems. Rust, a fungal disease, may infect a plant. The fungus causes the stems and leaves to swell, and white pustules form on the foliage. Pull up and destroy infected plants so they don't spread the fungal spores.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
To brighten your summer garden with vividly colored flowers, include zinnias (Zinnia elegans) when choosing plants. An old-fashioned favorite that's especially easy-to-grow, the zinnia plant produces masses of colorful blossom throughout summer and early fall. Zinnias grow as annuals in all parts of the United States, thriving in any sunny spot when given just basic care and some trimming now and then.
Off to a Good Start Start zinnias indoors from seeds four to six weeks before your last frost date, or direct-sow zinnia seeds in the garden once temperatures remain above about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. It's important to give plants enough space to grow without crowding, so thin direct-sown seedlings or space indoor-grown seedlings to allow about 6 inches between shorter varieties and about 12 inches between plants for types that become 2 or more feet tall. To ensure season-long flowers, sow more seed every two or three weeks until early summer; new plants will produce healthy flower buds when the first plants are beginning to slow their growth and shut down flower production as fall approaches. Watering and Feeding Water newly planted zinnias frequently during the first week or two, keeping the soil evenly moist until roots become established. Then water whenever soil feels dry an inch or two below the surface, aiming for about 1 inch of water each week, including rain. Adding 3 or 4 inches of organic mulch such as straw or shredded bark under each plant's canopy also helps conserve soil moisture while keeping down weeds, but keep the mulch back a few inches from each plant's base to discourage fungal growth. Fertilizing zinnias helps keep new flower buds coming non-stop through most of the season. Give an initial feeding when seedlings are about 4 inches tall, using a 5-10-5, water-soluble formula. Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 strength, or 1/4 teaspoon per 4 gallons of water, but check your product label for additional directions. Feed again in mid-summer to keep the plants growing and flowering as long as possible.
Trimming and Deadheading Zinnias are naturally bushy plants, especially when grown in full sun, but pinching out new growth on young plants helps promote extra branching, making plants even fuller and providing more stems that produce blossoms. If you do this when shoots are young and tender, you can pinch out soft new growth with your fingers. To trim back slightly larger stems, use sharp shears, disinfecting the blades by wiping them with rubbing alcohol between cuts to discourage spread of plant disease. As flowers fade on zinnia plants, cut these off just ahead of the first set of leaves on the flower stem -- called deadheading. This helps spur production of new flower buds on the remaining stems and also helps keep the plant looking tidy. Because zinnias are annuals, they don't survive winter, but leaving a few spent flowers on the plant allows seeds to mature that can drop to the ground. These may produce new, "volunteer" seedlings the following spring. Preventing Problems Zinnias are susceptible to several fungal disorders, including powdery mildew, which makes zinnia leaves look whitish and sprinkled with powder. Eventually, leaves turn brown, then dry up and fall from the plant. Mildew is best prevented by choosing mildew-resistant varieties, spacing plants properly and watering plants with a soaker hose or drip irrigation that helps keep foliage dry. Zinnias can attract a few pests, including Japanese beetles and some caterpillars that chew foliage, slowing plant growth and potentially stopping flower development. Destroy these pests by handpicking them. You might also see whiteflies, tiny white flying insects, and soft-bodied, yellowish aphids; these insects suck plant juices and slow flowering. Rid the plant of these pests by spraying it until dripping with insecticidal soap, diluted at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water. Repeat the spray every two weeks as needed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
With their showy flowers and low-maintenance needs, bottlebrush trees (Callistemon spp.) are often chosen in warm growing zones for hedges or statement plants. They grow best in full sun and soil with low alkalinity, but other than that aren't very picky about where you plant them. Soil Preparation Bottlebrush thrive in a wide variety of soil conditions, except for highly alkaline soil. They will tolerate slightly alkaline soils, but high alkalinity results in chlorosis, which turns the plant's leaves yellow. Soils with a pH higher than 7.5 have moderate or high alkalinity. You should test the soil pH before planting bottlebrush plants. You can stabilize the pH of some soil types, but there is no way to permanently lower the alkalinity of soils with a high concentration of lime. Test lime content by placing about 1 tablespoon of dry soil in a cup and moistening it with white vinegar. If the soil bubbles, it contains too much lime to amend the soil sufficiently. If it does not bubble, regularly adding organic amendments can decrease the alkalinity enough to grow bottlebrushes. Amend soils before planting with an organic amendment low in mineral salts, such as plant-based composts and sphagnum peat moss. This will help stabilize the soil pH and improve soil texture, even in soils that do not test as alkaline. Spread a layer of amendment 2 to 3 inches deep over the planting surface, and work it in to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. If you're using organic matter to lower soil pH, apply this same amount each year for the next three years, then apply 1 to 2 inches each year after that.
Planting Tips Dig a planting hole 1 to 2 inches shallower than the rootball and three times as wide. This prevents trees from settling too deep in the soil after planting and provides loose soil on either side for new roots to grow. Remove the container and set the tree in the hole, then fill in around the plant with the same soil you dug out of the planting hole. When you're done, you want the tree at the same depth it was previously growing or slightly higher than the surrounding soil, with the soil sloped up to meet the top of the rootball. When digging planting holes for multiple trees, space far enough apart to allow for the tree's mature size. For instance, red bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus, U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9a through 11) grows 10 to 15 feet tall and wide, and weeping bottlebrush (Callistemon viminalis, USDA zones 9b through 11) grows 15 to 20 feet. Spacing them 4 to 9 feet apart gives them room to grow with some overlap. Dwarf bottlebrush (Callistemon citrinus 'Little John,' USDA zones 8 through 11) grows only 5 feet wide so you can plant them 2 feet apart. In their preferred growing zones, bottlebrush can be planted year-round. You'll just have to make sure that you can supply adequate water for the new roots. In Florida, for example, it's easier to plant during the cooler fall, winter and spring than trying to supply enough water to keep the soil moist during hot summers.
After-Planting Care Right after planting, water thoroughly to settle the soil. If the soil level drops after watering, add more soil and water again. For the first year after planting, water regularly to keep the soil moist. Bottlebrush are native to damp locations and are more likely to establish deep root systems if you give them plenty of water. After they are well-established, most bottlebrush varieties are drought tolerant and need very little supplemental watering. The exception is weeping bottlebrush, which requires plenty of water to keep the soil moist. To keep them growing and flowering well, fertilize bottlebrush with a low-phosphorous fertilizer. Phosphorous is represented by the middle number in a fertilizer's N-P-K ratio, so look for fertilizers with a lower number in the middle. For example, apply a dry slow-release fertilizer with an N-P-K ratio of 12-4-8 by scattering 1 tablespoon per square foot of soil surface. Do this twice a year, once in the spring and once in the fall.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Portulaca grandiflora, also called moss rose, tends to self-seed, but harvesting seeds from this annual plant helps keep it where you want it. Moss rose quickly spreads in full-sun, dry areas when seed capsules are left on the plant. Growing 4 to 8 inches tall and 6 to 24 inches wide, moss rose varieties include the early-flowering Margarita series, "Sundial," which produces early, double flowers in sunset colors, and "Calypso," which features white, yellow, orange, pink or purple double flowers.
Moss Rose Varieties Suppliers sell moss rose cultivars, hybrids, strains, heirlooms and mixes, and only some of these come true from seed. Cultivars and hybrids are specially bred to have certain characteristics, such as flower color, shape or performance, but they don't pass on these characteristics to their offspring. Some cultivar and hybrid seeds may not even sprout. Strains and heirloom plants are often older varieties, and these are more reliable in producing plants that are similar to themselves. Mixes are different varieties mixed together, and these may cross-fertilize, producing unpredictable results. Moss rose cultivars and hybrids are often more expensive than other varieties. If you aren't sure what type of moss rose you're growing, ask the garden center where you bought it. Harvesting Seed Moss rose seeds are fine as dust and develop inside seed capsules, which you can harvest. Moss rose flowers in summer. The seed capsules are 1/8 to 1/4 inch long, and they develop after the flowers are pollinated. When the seed capsules are ripe, they turn dry and papery and split open. Inside are many tiny, blue-gray seeds.
Harvest ripe moss rose seed capsules on a dry, sunny day. If you aren't sure whether the capsules are ripe, gently rub one between your thumb and forefinger. To avoid spilling the seeds on the soil, where they may sprout the following year, take a seed capsule indoors before testing it. Pinch off the ripe capsules and put them in a paper bag. Separating Seed Moss rose seeds should be separated from the seed capsules and dried before storing. Crush the seed capsules over a sheet of newspaper in a draft-free place. Place a colander on another sheet of newspaper, and pour the the crushed seed capsules into the colander. Gently shake the colander so that the seeds fall through but the capsule debris is left behind. Moss rose seeds must be stored in an airtight container. Lift the newspaper and close it along its crease. Place one edge of the crease at the lip of an open airtight container, and lift the newspaper so the seeds slide into the container. Flick the newspaper once or twice with your finger to loosen any remaining seeds, put the newspaper down, then seal the container. Storing Seed A refrigerator is the best place for storing moss rose seeds, where they will remain fresh for sowing the following year. Put moss rose seeds in their sealed, airtight container in a refrigerator or similar cool, dry place such as a basement or cellar. Don't place the container in direct light, and don't open the container to check on the seeds until it's time to sow them. Direct light warms up the inside of the container, damaging the seeds, and opening the container allows moisture inside, which encourages the seeds to rot.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
The genus Hibiscus contains perennial and tropical species; the hibiscus trees are typically tropical hibiscuses (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis). These plants add an island feel to any landscape or home. The flowers, which come in an artist's palette of colors, reach up to 6 inches in diameter. The tree form is a common offering at nurseries and plant centers, particularly in mid- to late-spring. Caring for these tropical plants isn't always difficult, but they are picky when it comes to certain requirements.
Keep It Hot Tropical hibiscus is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 and 10, although even these warmer climates can cause trouble. Native to tropical areas of Asia, these showy plants can't handle extreme changes in temperature. For much of the U.S., these plants will thrive during the summer but need to come inside if you want to overwinter them. If 90 degrees Fahrenheit or hotter, move your braided hibiscus tree to a partly shaded spot to protect it from the hot afternoon sun. If temperatures are going to fall below 45 degrees F at night, move the plant to a protected area such as a garage or inside. Protective Pots Potted hibiscuses tend to do better than ground-planted hibiscuses, primarily because of their tendency to be picky about moisture, acidity and temperature. Ideally, the pot should have at least four drainage holes. Black plastic pots, common in the nursery industry, can heat up too much. Ceramic or clay, while more expensive, is a better material for your hibiscus. Growers often use a mix of 5 percent perlite, 50 percent peat or coco fiber, and 45 percent composted bark as a growing medium. Repot into the next larger size of pot when the roots begin wrapping around each other. Place a small amount of new potting mix in the bottom of the new pot, disturb the root system of your hibiscus with your fingers, and place it into the pot. The top of the root ball should be approximately 1 inch below the rim of the pot. Fill the pot with fresh potting mix, and work it in gently with your fingers to get it to settle; press the top of the soil firmly around the hibiscus and water thoroughly.
Food and Drink Applications of a water-soluble fertilizer specifically designed for tropical hibiscus is an ideal fertilizer for these plants. These fertilizers have low phosphorus, and often an N-P-K ratio of 9-3-13 or 10-4-12. Water your potted hibiscus thoroughly and apply 1 teaspoon of granular 10-4-12 hibiscus food for 6- to 12-inch pots, or 2 teaspoons for 14-inch or larger pots; water again after application. Feed once per month or every six weeks. Hibiscus plants can't handle being waterlogged; allow the soil to dry before watering. Water more frequently in hot weather. In the Ground Choose a location with well-drained soil if you live in an area that stays warm enough -- USDA zones 9 and 10 -- to plant your hibiscus tree outside in the ground. Clay soils will remain too waterlogged for these tropical plants; sand soils will drain too quickly. When in doubt, plant in a raised bed. Water frequently when temperatures are hot, keeping the root system in moist soil. Maintaining Your Plant Pruning hibiscus trees is an option, although not always necessary. A selective prune is often the best option for hibiscus and hibiscus trees. Prune in autumn as you bring your potted plant indoors for the winter. Prune older branches down to the second or third nodes, the small nubs where new branches or leaves come out. As for pests, hibiscus is prone to white flies and mites in particular. To control them, smother with insecticidal soap, an organic-safe insecticide. Spray the leaves thoroughly, including the undersides, and the stems -- anywhere these small pests are present. Repeat every two or three weeks until the infestation is gone.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Vinca, also known as catharanthus or Madagascar periwinkle, is a popular annual flower. Growing upwards to 10 to 16 inches tall, with dark green leaves and five-petal blossoms in pink, mauve or white, these flowers spread quickly and require little care. While vincas have few problems, occasionally they will suddenly wilt and die.
Symptoms and Causes According to the Alabama Agricultural Experiment Station and Clemson University Extension, there are several diseases and fungus that can cause vincas to wilt, including phytophthora stem blight and root rot, pythium root rot, rhizoctonia stem and root rot, gray mold and the tomato spotted wilt virus. Symptoms of these diseases and fungus include dark colored lesions on the stems and branches, yellowing leaves with stunted growth, spots on the foliage, gray mold on the plant or black concentric rings on the leaves. Many of these diseases and fungus are prevalent in soil that has poor drainage or gardens that have been watered incorrectly.
Prevention and Treatment Select healthy vinca to plant in the garden. Enrich the garden's soil with well-rotted manure or compost before planting to help increase the soil's moisture-retention. Do not plant the vinca deeply and space 8 to 12 inches apart to allow for air circulation. Vincas need about 1 inch of water each week; if rainfall is insufficient, avoid overhead irrigation systems and water deeply in the early morning to allow the plants time to dry before nightfall. Remove and destroy any affected plants. Treat the remaining plants with a fungicide; contact your local extension office to determine which fungicide is needed.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Impatiens grow in partial to full shade, filling dark corners with brilliant color from late spring until frost. According to the University of Vermont Extension, impatiens are the top-selling bedding pant in the United States, and it is no wonder. These tender annuals come in a wide range of colors and require little care other than consistent watering, occasional deadheading and a quick pruning to keep them blooming all summer.
Step 1 Prune or cut back impatiens in midsummer if they cease blooming or become leggy. High temperatures, lack of adequate water during dry spells and lack of adequate fertilizer may result in a temporary drop of blooms, or they may cease blooming altogether. Pruning the plant revitalizes it and forces new blooms. Step 2 Use garden shears to trim the terminal ends of impatiens stems to form a rounded plant. Leggy plants benefit from cutting back to 4 to 6 inches. Not only does this force new blooms, it encourages vigorous growth of foliage as well, and forces the stems to branch out, creating a full, compact plant.
Step 3 Maintain the shape of the plant by pinching out center leaves as they appear. This forces side shoot to emerge along the main stem. Reduce pinching once the plant develops the desired shape and allow to bloom. Deadhead blooms to prolong blooming.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月15日
Miss Chen
Lobelia, marked by intense colors and masses of small, tubular blooms, provides interest to the garden all summer. Annual lobelia (Lobelia erinus), grown as a perennial in the warm climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 10, is a bushy, low-growing plant often used in flower beds and hanging baskets. Perennial varieties, which include cardinal flower (Lobelia cardinalis) and lobelia speciosa (Lobelia x speciosa), are tall, upright plants that reach heights of up to 4 feet. They are hardy perennials that grow in USDA zones 3 through 9. Watering Lobelia
Annual lobelia requires frequent watering during the growing season because the short roots remain near the surface. Water slowly, using a garden hose or drip system, to saturate the soil to a depth of 6 to 8 inches. Allow the top 1 to 2 inches of soil to dry before watering again, as poorly drained, soggy soil may create root rot or other fungal diseases. Perennial varieties benefit from regular watering the first year. Thereafter, the plants are drought-tolerant, and water is necessary only during periods of hot, dry weather. Fertilize to Promote Healthy Blooms
Annual and perennial lobelia varieties benefit from application of a dry, 5-10-10 or 5-10-5 fertilizer at planting time. Dig the fertilizer into the ground at a rate of about 5 pounds per 100 square feet of planting space. Repeat every spring for perennial varieties. Although a yearly feeding is sufficient for perennials, annual lobelia requires frequent feeding to sustain energy for blooming throughout the season. Use a liquid fertilizer with a ratio such as 12-4-8, mixed at a rate of 1 teaspoon per gallon of water every two to three weeks. Always apply fertilizer to damp soil to prevent damage to the plant; then water thoroughly to distribute the fertilizer evenly around the roots. Maintaining Healthy Plants
Pinch back the tips of young annual and perennial lobelia plants by 1/2 to 1 inch to create full, bushy plants. Thereafter, shear annual lobelia by about half its height if it becomes tired and leggy in midsummer. To prevent spread of disease organisms, disinfect shears and other cutting tools by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol before and after each use. You can also sanitize the blades with a mixture of 1 part bleach and 9 parts water. Deadhead perennial varieties to keep the plants looking their best and promote development of flowers throughout the growing season. To deadhead, pinch off wilted blooms along with the stem down to the next branch or leaf. Perennial and annual varieties benefit from 2 to 3 inches of mulch to keep the roots cool and moist during the growing season. Keep a layer of mulch around perennial varieties to protect the roots during the winter. Divide perennial lobelia every two to three years to keep the plant from becoming crowded. Special Considerations
Lobelia is a pest-resistant plant; however, perennial varieties may be bothered by slugs and snails. If the infestation is light, pick the pests off by hand and drop them in a bucket of soapy water. Otherwise, apply slug bait at a rate of 1 teaspoon per square yard of planting area. Keep the container tightly closed, and store it in a locked place where it is inaccessible to children and pets. Plant lobelia with care because some varieties, including Lobelia cardinalis, are poisonous if eaten in large quantities.
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