文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses are a traditional and very elegant flower. Rose bushes can be grown from potted plants or cuttings of existing rose bushes.
Features
Roses grow on rose bushes that can range from miniature (one foot tall) to very large (up to five feet tall). They can also be of climbing varieties, with long stems that act like vines. Rose blooms come in a wide variety of colors.
Rooting Rose Cuttings
Rose cuttings are pieces of rose stem that are cut from existing rose plants. An ideal rose cutting is at least 12 inches long. These cuttings can be placed root-side down in jars of water to take root.
Transplanting Rose Cuttings
Once a rose cutting has rooted, that cutting is transplanted to a pot or to the outdoors for growing.
Lifespans
Rose bushes can be kept indoors as potted plants or taken outside and planted in the garden. Healthy rose bushes can last up to 50 years.
Considerations
Roses suffer from exposure to cold and improper pruning techniques. When gardeners are rooting and growing roses, it's important that they consider their region's temperature and water availability to choose the best variety of rose bush.
Features
Roses grow on rose bushes that can range from miniature (one foot tall) to very large (up to five feet tall). They can also be of climbing varieties, with long stems that act like vines. Rose blooms come in a wide variety of colors.
Rooting Rose Cuttings
Rose cuttings are pieces of rose stem that are cut from existing rose plants. An ideal rose cutting is at least 12 inches long. These cuttings can be placed root-side down in jars of water to take root.
Transplanting Rose Cuttings
Once a rose cutting has rooted, that cutting is transplanted to a pot or to the outdoors for growing.
Lifespans
Rose bushes can be kept indoors as potted plants or taken outside and planted in the garden. Healthy rose bushes can last up to 50 years.
Considerations
Roses suffer from exposure to cold and improper pruning techniques. When gardeners are rooting and growing roses, it's important that they consider their region's temperature and water availability to choose the best variety of rose bush.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The rose plant (Rosa genus) is about 35 million years old, according to the University of Illinois. Historically, roses have always been popular plants, beloved for their long blooming period, fragrance and beauty, although these things vary depending on species and cultivar. There are around 150 species of roses, with many more cultivars, making it easy for home gardeners to choose just the right rose for their gardens.
Types
There are five broad types of roses, according to the University of Illinois. Species roses are those plants that grow naturally in the wild. They are very hardy rose plants, require minimum care, and range widely in size and appearance. Old European roses are those roses that were hybridized in England before the 18th century. They were bred to be very cold hardy and thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) growing zones 3 through 5. Repeat-blooming roses were cultivated from old European roses to bloom all summer long. Along with their cold hardiness, these roses are also known for their strong, pleasing fragrance. Modern roses are the most popular roses sold. These are also called hybrid tea or grandiflora rose plants. They are known for their heavily petaled flowers and wonderful fragrance. Shrub roses are those that do not fit into any of the other categories. They are not all shrubs or upright plants. Some are also ground covers or climbers.
Appearance
Roses have canes, which can be very thick or quite slender. These are the branches from which the flowers bloom. Some are covered with thorns. The leaves of rose plants are ovate and range from medium to dark green in color. They grow in clusters of three or five. The flowers of roses can range from simple, five-petaled blooms to large, heavily ruffled beauties. Rose plants range widely in size, according to Clemson University. Some miniature roses only reach a maximum height of 8 inches, while a few species of climbing roses can climb to 50 feet. Most climbing roses do not get more than 15 feet tall, however. The popular hybrid tea rose plants, which are upright and bushy in form, average between 4 and 6 feet in height and width.
Colors and Cultivars
Roses come in all colors and hues, from a very deep red that looks almost black, to roses that have two or three colors in one flower. There are no blue roses, however. "Golden Celebration" is a bright, cheerful yellow that has a scent to match the flower. This rose smells like honey and will bloom from June to November in USDA zones 5 through 10. "Martin Frobisher" features light pink or lavender blooms, has no thorns and will bloom all summer long. This cold-hardy rose (to USDA zone 2) will reach heights of 7 feet if left unpruned. "Kiss Me" has very large (up to 24 petals) flowers that are a delicate, salmon color. They are very fragrant and grow in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Growing Environment
Rose plants are somewhat particular about their growing environment. Roses must have well-draining soil in order to survive, according to Clemson University. A raised bed works well, which should be in full sunlight. Roses also need plenty of air circulation and rich, organic, loamy soil.
Problems
Rose plants can suffer from insect pests and diseases. They may develop brown or black spots on the leaves, which are caused by a fungus that travels on water and can be avoided by making sure watering is done at the ground level. Aphids, which are tiny white or light green insects, love roses and may cover the stems and leaves of the plant. Insecticides might be needed to get rid of them. Rose plants may also seem to wither up or wilt. This could be caused by root rot, which develops when the soil becomes overly wet for too long. Do not over-water roses, and make sure the planting site does not collect standing water.
Types
There are five broad types of roses, according to the University of Illinois. Species roses are those plants that grow naturally in the wild. They are very hardy rose plants, require minimum care, and range widely in size and appearance. Old European roses are those roses that were hybridized in England before the 18th century. They were bred to be very cold hardy and thrive best in U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) growing zones 3 through 5. Repeat-blooming roses were cultivated from old European roses to bloom all summer long. Along with their cold hardiness, these roses are also known for their strong, pleasing fragrance. Modern roses are the most popular roses sold. These are also called hybrid tea or grandiflora rose plants. They are known for their heavily petaled flowers and wonderful fragrance. Shrub roses are those that do not fit into any of the other categories. They are not all shrubs or upright plants. Some are also ground covers or climbers.
Appearance
Roses have canes, which can be very thick or quite slender. These are the branches from which the flowers bloom. Some are covered with thorns. The leaves of rose plants are ovate and range from medium to dark green in color. They grow in clusters of three or five. The flowers of roses can range from simple, five-petaled blooms to large, heavily ruffled beauties. Rose plants range widely in size, according to Clemson University. Some miniature roses only reach a maximum height of 8 inches, while a few species of climbing roses can climb to 50 feet. Most climbing roses do not get more than 15 feet tall, however. The popular hybrid tea rose plants, which are upright and bushy in form, average between 4 and 6 feet in height and width.
Colors and Cultivars
Roses come in all colors and hues, from a very deep red that looks almost black, to roses that have two or three colors in one flower. There are no blue roses, however. "Golden Celebration" is a bright, cheerful yellow that has a scent to match the flower. This rose smells like honey and will bloom from June to November in USDA zones 5 through 10. "Martin Frobisher" features light pink or lavender blooms, has no thorns and will bloom all summer long. This cold-hardy rose (to USDA zone 2) will reach heights of 7 feet if left unpruned. "Kiss Me" has very large (up to 24 petals) flowers that are a delicate, salmon color. They are very fragrant and grow in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Growing Environment
Rose plants are somewhat particular about their growing environment. Roses must have well-draining soil in order to survive, according to Clemson University. A raised bed works well, which should be in full sunlight. Roses also need plenty of air circulation and rich, organic, loamy soil.
Problems
Rose plants can suffer from insect pests and diseases. They may develop brown or black spots on the leaves, which are caused by a fungus that travels on water and can be avoided by making sure watering is done at the ground level. Aphids, which are tiny white or light green insects, love roses and may cover the stems and leaves of the plant. Insecticides might be needed to get rid of them. Rose plants may also seem to wither up or wilt. This could be caused by root rot, which develops when the soil becomes overly wet for too long. Do not over-water roses, and make sure the planting site does not collect standing water.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
The rose family (Rosaceae) is an amazingly large family of flowering plants characterized by flowers with five separate petals and numerous stamens that protrude from a cup-like base. There are over 2800 species of ornamental roses: over 100 of these are wild with 35 native to the United States. Rosaceae is the third largest plant family in both world distribution and economic importance. Plants in the Rosacea family are surpassed in number only by the plant families of peas (Fabales) and grass (Poaceae).
The Family Rosaceae
The Rosaceae family includes several popular fruit bearing plants such as almond (Prunus dulcis), apricot, (Prunus armeniaca), pear (Pyrus calleryana), plum (Prunus domestica), apple (Malus pumila), cherry (Prunus avium or sweet cherry) (Prunus cerasus or sour cherry), peach and nectarine (Prunus persica), strawberry (Fragaria ananassa) and raspberry (Rubus), as well as ornamental roses (Rosa). Plants from the Rosacae family yield fruits and flowers that are of immense economic importance. The value of these fruits, rose plants, cut roses and other products derived from the plant family support a wide variety of industries, farms and employees. The monies generated from product sales exceed $180 billion dollars annually.
Rose Bushes & Cut Flowers
Rose bushes are used as ornamental plants and cut roses are the favored flower of wedding bouquets and floral gifts. The majority of cut roses are sold by florist for three major United States holidays; Valentine's Day, Mother's Day and Christmas. However, roses are considered the "gift of lovers" and are sold year-around for floral delivery and cut flower sales. Roses sold during the three holiday periods may sell for up to ten times the cost of the price realized by growers during the remainder of the year. It is estimated, that as many as 130 billion rose stems are sold annually worldwide. Roses grown for transplant can be planted from early spring until late fall. Rose bush sales are a major portion of plant nursery and landscape plant contractor sales.
Fragrance
Bulgaria, which produces the famous "Bulgarian Rose", highly prized by the perfume industry for it's intense fragrance, has seen a sharp decline in rose production. Subsidies to farmers that grew Bulgarian Roses have been reduced and land cultivation has been diverted to more lucrative cash crops. To replace the depletion of Bulgarian Rose cultivation, other highly fragrant roses from Persia and Africa are grown for their fragrant oil. Rose essential oil is used in soaps, shampoos, lotions, potions and a plethora of cosmetic products.
North American Rose Growers
The number of North American growers of commercial roses has declined over the past decades from over 500 growers to less than 50. The majority of the world's rose supply is provided by over 200 million rose plants grown in Africa, Central and South America. North America is unable to compete with the low cost of labor available in these regions.
Economic Impact
Roses are cherished around the world for their beauty and scent. To meet the enormous demand for cut roses, rose bushes and rose oil, commercial growers plant literally tens of thousands of acres of roses. Growing roses is labor intensive as they require pruning, spraying, fertilizing and harvesting, most of which must be done by hand. Rose cultivation provides employment to workers in the farming, transportation, marketing, delivery industries as well as wholesale and retail sales outlets. Internationally, the cut floral industry, of which roses accounts for two-thirds of all selections, exceeds $40 billion dollars each year.
The Family Rosaceae
The Rosaceae family includes several popular fruit bearing plants such as almond (Prunus dulcis), apricot, (Prunus armeniaca), pear (Pyrus calleryana), plum (Prunus domestica), apple (Malus pumila), cherry (Prunus avium or sweet cherry) (Prunus cerasus or sour cherry), peach and nectarine (Prunus persica), strawberry (Fragaria ananassa) and raspberry (Rubus), as well as ornamental roses (Rosa). Plants from the Rosacae family yield fruits and flowers that are of immense economic importance. The value of these fruits, rose plants, cut roses and other products derived from the plant family support a wide variety of industries, farms and employees. The monies generated from product sales exceed $180 billion dollars annually.
Rose Bushes & Cut Flowers
Rose bushes are used as ornamental plants and cut roses are the favored flower of wedding bouquets and floral gifts. The majority of cut roses are sold by florist for three major United States holidays; Valentine's Day, Mother's Day and Christmas. However, roses are considered the "gift of lovers" and are sold year-around for floral delivery and cut flower sales. Roses sold during the three holiday periods may sell for up to ten times the cost of the price realized by growers during the remainder of the year. It is estimated, that as many as 130 billion rose stems are sold annually worldwide. Roses grown for transplant can be planted from early spring until late fall. Rose bush sales are a major portion of plant nursery and landscape plant contractor sales.
Fragrance
Bulgaria, which produces the famous "Bulgarian Rose", highly prized by the perfume industry for it's intense fragrance, has seen a sharp decline in rose production. Subsidies to farmers that grew Bulgarian Roses have been reduced and land cultivation has been diverted to more lucrative cash crops. To replace the depletion of Bulgarian Rose cultivation, other highly fragrant roses from Persia and Africa are grown for their fragrant oil. Rose essential oil is used in soaps, shampoos, lotions, potions and a plethora of cosmetic products.
North American Rose Growers
The number of North American growers of commercial roses has declined over the past decades from over 500 growers to less than 50. The majority of the world's rose supply is provided by over 200 million rose plants grown in Africa, Central and South America. North America is unable to compete with the low cost of labor available in these regions.
Economic Impact
Roses are cherished around the world for their beauty and scent. To meet the enormous demand for cut roses, rose bushes and rose oil, commercial growers plant literally tens of thousands of acres of roses. Growing roses is labor intensive as they require pruning, spraying, fertilizing and harvesting, most of which must be done by hand. Rose cultivation provides employment to workers in the farming, transportation, marketing, delivery industries as well as wholesale and retail sales outlets. Internationally, the cut floral industry, of which roses accounts for two-thirds of all selections, exceeds $40 billion dollars each year.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dracaena are lovely tropical houseplants that can help set a calm and peaceful mood in your home. These plants are usually carefree, but a number of dracaena plant problems can weaken them so that they can’t carry out their normal life functions. This article explains what to do when you see black stems on a dracaena plant.
Why is Stem Turning Black on Corn Plant?
When a dracaena has black stems, it probably means that the plant has begun to rot. This happens because something has weakened the plant enough to allow harmful microorganisms to take over. Here are a few things that can weaken a dracaena: Most people forget to water their plants from time to time, but repeated improper watering over a long period of time can devastate a plant. You should let the soil become dry to touch and then water it enough that water drain out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Drain completely and then empty the saucer under the pot. Poor or old potting soil doesn’t manage water properly. Change out the potting soil annually and every time you repot the plant. While you’re at it, make sure the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. Inefficient potting soil can become a soggy mess that rots the plant. Watch for insects and mites that weaken plants and allow diseases to infect them. Mites are particularly troublesome for dracaena. Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride, so it’s best to use filtered water. The first symptoms of fluoride toxicity are dark streaks and brown tips on leaves.
What to Do About Stem Rot of Dracaena
As soon as you notice the stem turning black on corn plants or other dracaenas, plan to take cuttings. The parent plant will probably die, but your plant can live on through its offspring. You’ll need a glass of water and a sharp knife or pruning shears. Cut one or more six-inch piece of stem that has no black, smelly rot. Stand the stem in a glass of water with the lower two inches under water. Top off the water daily and change the water if it becomes cloudy. White nodules will form on the part of the stem that is below water, and roots will grow from these nodules. Buds will emerge from under the bark on the upper part of the stem.
Another way to solve your dracaena plant problem is to root side shoots. This method is a lifesaver if you can’t find enough healthy stem. Check the shoots carefully to make sure there are no signs of rot. Place them in a pot of moist rooting medium and cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase the humidity. Remove the bag after the shoots take root and begin to grow.
Why is Stem Turning Black on Corn Plant?
When a dracaena has black stems, it probably means that the plant has begun to rot. This happens because something has weakened the plant enough to allow harmful microorganisms to take over. Here are a few things that can weaken a dracaena: Most people forget to water their plants from time to time, but repeated improper watering over a long period of time can devastate a plant. You should let the soil become dry to touch and then water it enough that water drain out of the holes in the bottom of the pot. Drain completely and then empty the saucer under the pot. Poor or old potting soil doesn’t manage water properly. Change out the potting soil annually and every time you repot the plant. While you’re at it, make sure the drainage holes in the pot aren’t blocked. Inefficient potting soil can become a soggy mess that rots the plant. Watch for insects and mites that weaken plants and allow diseases to infect them. Mites are particularly troublesome for dracaena. Dracaenas are sensitive to fluoride, so it’s best to use filtered water. The first symptoms of fluoride toxicity are dark streaks and brown tips on leaves.
What to Do About Stem Rot of Dracaena
As soon as you notice the stem turning black on corn plants or other dracaenas, plan to take cuttings. The parent plant will probably die, but your plant can live on through its offspring. You’ll need a glass of water and a sharp knife or pruning shears. Cut one or more six-inch piece of stem that has no black, smelly rot. Stand the stem in a glass of water with the lower two inches under water. Top off the water daily and change the water if it becomes cloudy. White nodules will form on the part of the stem that is below water, and roots will grow from these nodules. Buds will emerge from under the bark on the upper part of the stem.
Another way to solve your dracaena plant problem is to root side shoots. This method is a lifesaver if you can’t find enough healthy stem. Check the shoots carefully to make sure there are no signs of rot. Place them in a pot of moist rooting medium and cover the pot with a plastic bag to increase the humidity. Remove the bag after the shoots take root and begin to grow.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen are common flowering gift plants but there are also North American native species found in the wild. The plants make excellent container or garden bed specimens and can even thrive and bloom for months indoors. However, cyclamen plants have an interesting life cycle and certain needs to perform best. Without good care, drooping cyclamen plants are common. Learn the causes and how to revive a drooping cyclamen.
Why is Cyclamen Drooping?
Drooping leaves on cyclamen may be the result of a natural process. Plants begin re-growth in fall and are actively growing in winter. By the time the heat of summer appears, the plants are slowly dying back and eventually there will be no sign that they were there. This process is natural and may result in drooping leaves on cyclamen. Wait until fall and see if you don’t find it coming back for its spring performance. Droopy cyclamen flowers may also be due to cultural conditions and can be easily corrected. Cyclamen prefers Mediterranean climates and does not tolerate excessive heat or cold. The best temperatures are temperate and moderate. Drooping leaves on cyclamen are a common symptom of heat or cold stress. The plant also prefers bright but indirect light. Plants situated in a southern window or in a hot area of the garden may suffer and indicate their distress by drooping. Droopy cyclamen flowers occur when a plant has too much water. Cyclamens prefer moist soil but not boggy conditions. If planted in ground, make sure the soil percolates well; and if it doesn’t, add some gritty material to improve drainage. Plants in containers should also have well-draining soil and several holes in the bottom of the pot.
Plants that are kept too wet will develop drooping leaves as well as crown rot. This results in the core of the plant being overrun by fungal disease and causes eventual plant death. Cyclamen respond well to extra humidity and like to have their leaves sprayed but provide good ventilation so the leaves can dry off quickly. Most insects aren’t an issue but if you spot any sucking pests, like aphids, combat quickly with horticultural soap.
How to Revive a Droopy Cyclamen
Cyclamens are quite forgiving of incorrect culture provided you don’t drown the poor things. A sickly cyclamen in a container may simply need new potting soil. The plant rises from tubers and tubers in boggy soil become water logged and develop soft spots. Remove the plant from the soil and rinse off the tubers. Check each for any damage and separate any with soft spots or discoloration. Use fresh, sterile soil and replant the tubers, burying them half their length in depth. Keep the soil moist and in a cool, indirectly lit area. Cyclamen in their dormant phase need a bit less water than when they are actively growing. Increase water in late winter to early spring. Use ¼ teaspoon per gallon of houseplant food every time you water from late winter until the plant begins to stop blooming. Suspend fertilizer during the dormant phase.
Why is Cyclamen Drooping?
Drooping leaves on cyclamen may be the result of a natural process. Plants begin re-growth in fall and are actively growing in winter. By the time the heat of summer appears, the plants are slowly dying back and eventually there will be no sign that they were there. This process is natural and may result in drooping leaves on cyclamen. Wait until fall and see if you don’t find it coming back for its spring performance. Droopy cyclamen flowers may also be due to cultural conditions and can be easily corrected. Cyclamen prefers Mediterranean climates and does not tolerate excessive heat or cold. The best temperatures are temperate and moderate. Drooping leaves on cyclamen are a common symptom of heat or cold stress. The plant also prefers bright but indirect light. Plants situated in a southern window or in a hot area of the garden may suffer and indicate their distress by drooping. Droopy cyclamen flowers occur when a plant has too much water. Cyclamens prefer moist soil but not boggy conditions. If planted in ground, make sure the soil percolates well; and if it doesn’t, add some gritty material to improve drainage. Plants in containers should also have well-draining soil and several holes in the bottom of the pot.
Plants that are kept too wet will develop drooping leaves as well as crown rot. This results in the core of the plant being overrun by fungal disease and causes eventual plant death. Cyclamen respond well to extra humidity and like to have their leaves sprayed but provide good ventilation so the leaves can dry off quickly. Most insects aren’t an issue but if you spot any sucking pests, like aphids, combat quickly with horticultural soap.
How to Revive a Droopy Cyclamen
Cyclamens are quite forgiving of incorrect culture provided you don’t drown the poor things. A sickly cyclamen in a container may simply need new potting soil. The plant rises from tubers and tubers in boggy soil become water logged and develop soft spots. Remove the plant from the soil and rinse off the tubers. Check each for any damage and separate any with soft spots or discoloration. Use fresh, sterile soil and replant the tubers, burying them half their length in depth. Keep the soil moist and in a cool, indirectly lit area. Cyclamen in their dormant phase need a bit less water than when they are actively growing. Increase water in late winter to early spring. Use ¼ teaspoon per gallon of houseplant food every time you water from late winter until the plant begins to stop blooming. Suspend fertilizer during the dormant phase.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Cyclamen are low, flowering plants that produce bright, beautiful blooms in shades of red, pink, purple, and white. While they do well in garden beds, plenty of gardeners choose to grow them in containers. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow cyclamen in pots.
Container Grown Cyclamen
While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. And unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.
Growing Cyclamen in Containers
Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer.
When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60s (15 C.) during the day and the 50s (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.
Container Grown Cyclamen
While they prefer cool weather and actually bloom in the winter, cyclamen plants can’t tolerate temperatures below freezing. This means that if you live in a cold winter environment and want your plants to make it past their dormant summer period, your only options are growing them in a greenhouse or in pots. And unless you already have a greenhouse, pots are certainly the easier route. Growing cyclamen in containers is also a nice way to take advantage of their blooming period. While your container grown cyclamen are flowering, you can move them to a place of honor on the porch or in your home. Once the flowers have passed, you can move the plants out of the way.
Growing Cyclamen in Containers
Cyclamen come in a large number of varieties, and each has slightly different growing conditions. As a rule, though, growing cyclamen in containers is easy and usually successful. Potted cyclamen plants prefer well-draining growing medium, preferably with some compost mixed in. They are not heavy feeders and need very little fertilizer.
When planting a cyclamen tuber, choose a pot that leaves about an inch of space around the outside of the tuber. Set the tuber on top of the growing medium and cover it with half an inch of grit. Multiple tubers can be planted in the same pot as long as they have enough space. Potted cyclamen plants like cool Fahrenheit temperatures in the 60s (15 C.) during the day and the 50s (10 C.) at night. They grow best if placed in indirect bright sunlight.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose hips are the fruit developed by rose plants after bloom and they mature on the rose plant through the fall and often into winter if left in place. Most species of roses produce hips in some size and amount, but old garden, heirloom and classic shrub roses will tend to develop more of them than modern, highly bred cultivars, according to the University of Illinois. Pruning rose hips can be done at several points in their development, depending entirely on your goals for plant performance and the look you like in your garden. Rose hips are edible for humans and contain high levels of vitamin C and are prized by birds and other animals as a food source.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
Step 1
Harvest fresh rose hips at their peak ripeness in the fall. The rose hips are ripe when they become swollen, the skin becomes a deep rich orange or a bright red, the skin is still relatively smooth and they give just slightly when pressed with your thumb. Allow roughly four months after the first flowers have been pollinated for rose hips to develop and be ready for harvest.
Step 2
Groom the rose hip clusters on your plants during the late summer, fall or early winter by selectively removing single rose hips that may have become discolored, damaged or simply look unsightly. Cut the single hips on the thin, short stem that connects the single rose hip to the larger cluster and discard the cutting. Make the cut carefully so as not to disturb or sever the healthy hips from the cluster.
Step 3
Prune away any dried and dessicated rose hips leftover on the plant in early spring after the last hard frost has passed. During the winter, animals or inclement weather will usually strip the hips from the rose plants, but occasionally some remain tethered. Cut back the rose cane to a point of live wood, below where the hips are attached, just 1/8 to 1/4 inch above a healthy bud or leaf axil. The dried-up hips can be composted or discarded.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Croton plants (Codiaeum variegatum) are incredibly varied plants that are often grown as houseplants. The croton indoor plant has a reputation for being fussy, but in reality, if you know about caring for a croton houseplant properly, it can make for a resilient and hard-to-kill plant.
Croton Indoor Plant
The croton plant is often grown outdoors in tropical climates, but also make excellent houseplants. Crotons come in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors. Leaves can be short, long, twisted, thin, thick and several of these combined. Colors range from green, variegated, yellow, red, orange, cream, pink and black to a combination of all these. It is safe to say that if you look hard enough, you will find a croton that matches your décor. When considering croton growing, check the variety you have purchased to determine the light needs of your specific variety. Some varieties of croton need high light while others need medium or low light. In general, the more variegated and colorful the croton plant, the more light it will need.
Tips on the Care of Croton Plants
Part of the reason that these plants have a reputation for being fussy is because they tend to make a bad first impression. Oftentimes, a person will bring home a new croton from the store and within days, the plant will have lost some and maybe all of its foliage. This leaves the new owner wondering, “How did I fail in caring for a croton houseplant?” The short answer is that you did not fail; this is normal croton behavior. Croton plants do not like to be moved, and when they are moved, they can quickly go into shock which results in leaf loss. Therefore, it’s best to avoid moving the plant as much as possible. In situations where moving the plant is unavoidable (such as when you buy one), don’t panic at the leaf loss. Simply maintain proper care and the plant will regrow its leaves within a short period of time, after which, it will prove to be a resilient houseplant.
Like many houseplants, caring for a croton involves proper watering and humidity. Because it is a tropical plant, it does benefit from high humidity, so placing it on a pebble tray or regular misting will help keep it looking its best. Croton growing in containers should only be watered only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then, they should be watered until the water flows out the bottom of the container. The plant should also be kept away from drafts and cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 60 F. (15 C.). If it is exposed to temps lower than this, the croton will lose leaves and possibly die.
Croton Indoor Plant
The croton plant is often grown outdoors in tropical climates, but also make excellent houseplants. Crotons come in a wide variety of leaf shapes and colors. Leaves can be short, long, twisted, thin, thick and several of these combined. Colors range from green, variegated, yellow, red, orange, cream, pink and black to a combination of all these. It is safe to say that if you look hard enough, you will find a croton that matches your décor. When considering croton growing, check the variety you have purchased to determine the light needs of your specific variety. Some varieties of croton need high light while others need medium or low light. In general, the more variegated and colorful the croton plant, the more light it will need.
Tips on the Care of Croton Plants
Part of the reason that these plants have a reputation for being fussy is because they tend to make a bad first impression. Oftentimes, a person will bring home a new croton from the store and within days, the plant will have lost some and maybe all of its foliage. This leaves the new owner wondering, “How did I fail in caring for a croton houseplant?” The short answer is that you did not fail; this is normal croton behavior. Croton plants do not like to be moved, and when they are moved, they can quickly go into shock which results in leaf loss. Therefore, it’s best to avoid moving the plant as much as possible. In situations where moving the plant is unavoidable (such as when you buy one), don’t panic at the leaf loss. Simply maintain proper care and the plant will regrow its leaves within a short period of time, after which, it will prove to be a resilient houseplant.
Like many houseplants, caring for a croton involves proper watering and humidity. Because it is a tropical plant, it does benefit from high humidity, so placing it on a pebble tray or regular misting will help keep it looking its best. Croton growing in containers should only be watered only when the top of the soil is dry to the touch. Then, they should be watered until the water flows out the bottom of the container. The plant should also be kept away from drafts and cold, as it cannot tolerate temperatures below 60 F. (15 C.). If it is exposed to temps lower than this, the croton will lose leaves and possibly die.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Your brilliant indoor croton plant, the one you admire and prize, is now dropping leaves like crazy. Don’t panic. Leaf drop on croton plants can be expected any time the plant is stressed or out of balance. You just need to get to know your croton and how to give croton what it needs to thrive. Read on to learn more about why croton leaves fall off.
Why is My Croton Dropping Leaves?
Change can be difficult for a croton plant. A croton plant dropping leaves is often a new plant’s response to being transplanted or transported from the greenhouse to your home. It’s natural for a croton to drop leaves as it adjusts to environmental changes. Once settled, in three or four weeks, your plant will begin to produce new growth. If you haven’t changed the plant’s location recently and your croton leaves fall off, then it’s time to look at other possibilities. Heat and humidity – Croton plants are tropicals, meaning they thrive in warm and humid conditions. If your croton’s leaves fall off, it could be that it’s exposed to cold or hot extremes such as open doors or air ducts. A humidifier or a regular misting with distilled water will also help your croton feel at home. Light – Croton leaf drop and a lack of fiery color can be caused by insufficient sunlight. There are more than 750 varieties of croton plant, some needing more light than others. In general, the more variegated the plant, the more light it craves.
Water – The watering schedule for your other houseplants may not be suitable for your croton. Overwatering can damage the roots and cause croton leaf drop. When the soil on top feels dry, water until the overflow begins to pool in the tray. To prevent root rot, use a pebbled tray or pour off any pooled water after 30 minutes. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop on croton plants. If you’re watering and misting consistently and your croton still seems dry, consider transplanting in fresh, high-quality potting soil that includes peat moss to help retain moisture. Diseases and pests – If you think you’ve taken care of every possible environmental reason your croton plant is dropping leaves, look again. Inspect underneath the leaves for signs of disease or insect pests and treat accordingly.
Here’s the best news: crotons are tough. Even if your croton is brown and leafless, it doesn’t mean that your lovely plant is gone forever. Gently scratch the main stem. If the tissue underneath is still green, your plant is alive and may recover. Continue to care for your plant’s watering and environmental needs. In several weeks, it’s quite likely that your patience and care will be rewarded with the first of new, bright leaves.
Why is My Croton Dropping Leaves?
Change can be difficult for a croton plant. A croton plant dropping leaves is often a new plant’s response to being transplanted or transported from the greenhouse to your home. It’s natural for a croton to drop leaves as it adjusts to environmental changes. Once settled, in three or four weeks, your plant will begin to produce new growth. If you haven’t changed the plant’s location recently and your croton leaves fall off, then it’s time to look at other possibilities. Heat and humidity – Croton plants are tropicals, meaning they thrive in warm and humid conditions. If your croton’s leaves fall off, it could be that it’s exposed to cold or hot extremes such as open doors or air ducts. A humidifier or a regular misting with distilled water will also help your croton feel at home. Light – Croton leaf drop and a lack of fiery color can be caused by insufficient sunlight. There are more than 750 varieties of croton plant, some needing more light than others. In general, the more variegated the plant, the more light it craves.
Water – The watering schedule for your other houseplants may not be suitable for your croton. Overwatering can damage the roots and cause croton leaf drop. When the soil on top feels dry, water until the overflow begins to pool in the tray. To prevent root rot, use a pebbled tray or pour off any pooled water after 30 minutes. Underwatering can also cause leaf drop on croton plants. If you’re watering and misting consistently and your croton still seems dry, consider transplanting in fresh, high-quality potting soil that includes peat moss to help retain moisture. Diseases and pests – If you think you’ve taken care of every possible environmental reason your croton plant is dropping leaves, look again. Inspect underneath the leaves for signs of disease or insect pests and treat accordingly.
Here’s the best news: crotons are tough. Even if your croton is brown and leafless, it doesn’t mean that your lovely plant is gone forever. Gently scratch the main stem. If the tissue underneath is still green, your plant is alive and may recover. Continue to care for your plant’s watering and environmental needs. In several weeks, it’s quite likely that your patience and care will be rewarded with the first of new, bright leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Life may not be a bed of roses, but growing a bed of roses (Rosa spp.) captures life's hopes and disappointments more than most gardening experiences. Not many plants trigger such anticipation with their burgeoning buds or bring such heartbreak when their buds fade to brown, taking the hope of headily fragrant blooms with them. In order to spare yourself from this fate, keep your roses' buds warm, dry and bug-free, and your rose bed clean. Depending on their variety, roses are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 2 through 10.
Frost Damage
Where mild winters keep rose buds coming, a few hours of frost can shrivel and brown them. Even worse, frost-injured rose stems, or canes, may develop a canker fungus infection. Avert disaster by watering your roses as soon as the forecast calls for frost. Moist soil retains heat during the day and releases it to the plants after dark. Cocooning the plants in bedsheets before the temperature dips below 40 degrees Fahrenheit minimizes their frost injury. Uncover them in the morning before they overheat.
Gray Mold Infection
Rose buds deteriorating into brownish-gray mush have Botrytis blight, better known as gray mold. Moist, mild weather with temperatures are 62 to 72 F encourages the fungal disease. The drooping buds may not open; if they do, the blooms may resemble brown pulp. As the infection moves down the canes, cankers mark its progress.
Cultural Gray Mold Control
Mail-order, bare-root roses often arrive with stowaway gray mold spores. Remove such roses from their packaging sleeves immediately, and plant them far enough apart so they have good air circulation. Keeping their leaves dry when you water the plants helps because gray mold spores need moisture to germinate. Remove old or damaged blooms promptly, along with the diseased plant parts and soil debris. Disinfect your pruning tools in a solution that is one part household bleach and nine parts water between cuts and after you finish pruning. The infected plant material should be disposed of in sealed plastic bags.
Fungicide Option
Chronic gray mold in roses can be treated by spraying the plants with a premixed, ready-to-use chlorothalonil fungicide as soon as their buds break in spring. On a cool, overcast day with calm rather than breezy conditions, put on clothing that covers all of your skin, closed-toe shoes, a face mask, gloves and goggles, and spray the fungicide until it drips from the rose bushes. Repeat the application weekly while cool, damp conditions persist. Each time you use the spray, keep the area around your roses off-limits to people and pets during spraying and until the spray dries.
Sap-Thieving Thrips
Thrips insects invade rose buds with ease; placed end-to end, 25 of the yellowish-brown or black bugs stretch less than 1 inch. After overwintering as pupae in grass and soil debris, they ride spring breezes to plants, tunnel deep into developing buds and feed on sap or pollen. Brown-scarred bud sepals -- the narrow, green outer petals -- indicate the presence of thrips. The buds either remain closed or open with brown-streaked petals. In mild-winter locations, thrips may breed all year.
Thrips Control
Treating developing rose buds with ready-to-use insecticidal soap prevents damage from thrips. Unless the insecticidal soap's label indicates otherwise, spray the product every other day, coating only the buds until they drip. After drying, the soap won't harm lacewing larvae and other thrips predators. Flooding the soil around your plants periodically in late spring and summer drowns thrips pupae and interrupts the insects' breeding cycle.
Frost Damage
Where mild winters keep rose buds coming, a few hours of frost can shrivel and brown them. Even worse, frost-injured rose stems, or canes, may develop a canker fungus infection. Avert disaster by watering your roses as soon as the forecast calls for frost. Moist soil retains heat during the day and releases it to the plants after dark. Cocooning the plants in bedsheets before the temperature dips below 40 degrees Fahrenheit minimizes their frost injury. Uncover them in the morning before they overheat.
Gray Mold Infection
Rose buds deteriorating into brownish-gray mush have Botrytis blight, better known as gray mold. Moist, mild weather with temperatures are 62 to 72 F encourages the fungal disease. The drooping buds may not open; if they do, the blooms may resemble brown pulp. As the infection moves down the canes, cankers mark its progress.
Cultural Gray Mold Control
Mail-order, bare-root roses often arrive with stowaway gray mold spores. Remove such roses from their packaging sleeves immediately, and plant them far enough apart so they have good air circulation. Keeping their leaves dry when you water the plants helps because gray mold spores need moisture to germinate. Remove old or damaged blooms promptly, along with the diseased plant parts and soil debris. Disinfect your pruning tools in a solution that is one part household bleach and nine parts water between cuts and after you finish pruning. The infected plant material should be disposed of in sealed plastic bags.
Fungicide Option
Chronic gray mold in roses can be treated by spraying the plants with a premixed, ready-to-use chlorothalonil fungicide as soon as their buds break in spring. On a cool, overcast day with calm rather than breezy conditions, put on clothing that covers all of your skin, closed-toe shoes, a face mask, gloves and goggles, and spray the fungicide until it drips from the rose bushes. Repeat the application weekly while cool, damp conditions persist. Each time you use the spray, keep the area around your roses off-limits to people and pets during spraying and until the spray dries.
Sap-Thieving Thrips
Thrips insects invade rose buds with ease; placed end-to end, 25 of the yellowish-brown or black bugs stretch less than 1 inch. After overwintering as pupae in grass and soil debris, they ride spring breezes to plants, tunnel deep into developing buds and feed on sap or pollen. Brown-scarred bud sepals -- the narrow, green outer petals -- indicate the presence of thrips. The buds either remain closed or open with brown-streaked petals. In mild-winter locations, thrips may breed all year.
Thrips Control
Treating developing rose buds with ready-to-use insecticidal soap prevents damage from thrips. Unless the insecticidal soap's label indicates otherwise, spray the product every other day, coating only the buds until they drip. After drying, the soap won't harm lacewing larvae and other thrips predators. Flooding the soil around your plants periodically in late spring and summer drowns thrips pupae and interrupts the insects' breeding cycle.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
An unforgettable sight when exiting the airplane terminal at Cabo San Lucas are the huge brightly colored croton plants that line the edges of the buildings. These popular tropical plants are hardy to United States Department of Agriculture zones 9 to 11. For many of us, that leaves our experience with the plant simply as a houseplant. However, croton in the garden can be enjoyed during the summer and sometimes into the early fall. You just need to learn some rules about how to grow a croton outdoors.
Croton in the Garden
Crotons are thought to be native to Malaysia, India and some of the South Pacific Islands. There are many species and cultivars, but the plants are most known for their easy maintenance and colorful foliage, often with interesting variegation or speckling. Can you grow a croton outdoors? It depends where your zone is located and what your average low temperatures are per year. Croton is very frost tender and will not survive freezing temperatures. Southern gardeners in frost free zones should have no problem growing croton plants outside. Anyone who lives where there are temperatures that near freezing or 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 Celsius), even temperatures that hover in the 40’s (4 C.) can be damaging. That is why some gardeners choose to grow croton in containers on casters. That way, even the slightest threat of cold temps and the plant can be moved to a sheltered location. Care of outdoor croton may also include covering the plant if it is in the ground. The thing to remember is that these are tropical plants and are not suited for freezing temperatures which can kill the foliage and even the roots. Since croton hardiness is limited to freezing and even slightly above, northern gardeners should not attempt to grow the plant outdoors except in the warmest days of summer. Position the plant so it receives plenty of bright but indirect light to keep the foliage colors bright. Also, place the plant where it will not experience cold northern winds. Use well-draining potting soil and a container large enough to encompass the root ball with a little bit of growing room. Croton does not like to be transplanted, which should only be done every 3 to 5 years or as needed.
Care of Outdoor Croton Plants
Plants grown outdoors in appropriate zones will need slightly more water than those inside. This is because sunlight evaporates moisture and wind has a tendency to dry out soil quickly. Watch for pests and disease and handle immediately. When larger plants in the ground are in danger of a cold snap, cover them with a burlap sack or old blanket. To prevent breaking limbs, push in some stakes around the plant to handle the weight of the covering.
Mulch around plants with at least two inches (5 cm.) of organic material. This will help protect roots from cold, prevent competitive weeds and slowly feed the plant as the material breaks down. Where freezes are early and severe, grow plants in containers and move them in as soon as fall starts to arrive. This should save the plant and you can care for it indoors until the first warm rays of spring when it can go back outside after all danger of frost has passed.
Croton in the Garden
Crotons are thought to be native to Malaysia, India and some of the South Pacific Islands. There are many species and cultivars, but the plants are most known for their easy maintenance and colorful foliage, often with interesting variegation or speckling. Can you grow a croton outdoors? It depends where your zone is located and what your average low temperatures are per year. Croton is very frost tender and will not survive freezing temperatures. Southern gardeners in frost free zones should have no problem growing croton plants outside. Anyone who lives where there are temperatures that near freezing or 32 degrees Fahrenheit (0 Celsius), even temperatures that hover in the 40’s (4 C.) can be damaging. That is why some gardeners choose to grow croton in containers on casters. That way, even the slightest threat of cold temps and the plant can be moved to a sheltered location. Care of outdoor croton may also include covering the plant if it is in the ground. The thing to remember is that these are tropical plants and are not suited for freezing temperatures which can kill the foliage and even the roots. Since croton hardiness is limited to freezing and even slightly above, northern gardeners should not attempt to grow the plant outdoors except in the warmest days of summer. Position the plant so it receives plenty of bright but indirect light to keep the foliage colors bright. Also, place the plant where it will not experience cold northern winds. Use well-draining potting soil and a container large enough to encompass the root ball with a little bit of growing room. Croton does not like to be transplanted, which should only be done every 3 to 5 years or as needed.
Care of Outdoor Croton Plants
Plants grown outdoors in appropriate zones will need slightly more water than those inside. This is because sunlight evaporates moisture and wind has a tendency to dry out soil quickly. Watch for pests and disease and handle immediately. When larger plants in the ground are in danger of a cold snap, cover them with a burlap sack or old blanket. To prevent breaking limbs, push in some stakes around the plant to handle the weight of the covering.
Mulch around plants with at least two inches (5 cm.) of organic material. This will help protect roots from cold, prevent competitive weeds and slowly feed the plant as the material breaks down. Where freezes are early and severe, grow plants in containers and move them in as soon as fall starts to arrive. This should save the plant and you can care for it indoors until the first warm rays of spring when it can go back outside after all danger of frost has passed.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Coffee plants produce not only the all important coffee bean, but they make terrific houseplants too. In their native tropical habitat, coffee plants grow up to 15 feet or more, so pruning a coffee plant is integral when growing them indoors.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
Information on Coffee Plants
Before we explore how to prune a coffee plant, a little background on Coffea arabica is in order. A member of the Ruiaceae family, one of 90 in the genus Coffea, coffee plant is an evergreen, perennial shrub with dark green, glossy leaves decorated with ruffled edges and pleasantly aromatic white blossoms. Grow this specimen as an attractive houseplant, or if you aren’t shy on patience, for its fruit, which will take about four years to produce anything approximating a decent cup of coffee.
Hailing from Southern Asia and tropical regions of Africa, temperatures should be kept at 70 F. (21 C.) or higher during daylight hours and in the mid to lower 60’s (15-20 C.) at night with a good dose of humidity. Make sure the plant has well-draining soil, filtered sun and moderate (never soggy) irrigation. Although coffee plants will produce fruit without fertilization, for the most optimal fruiting and quality, they should be fed every two weeks from March to October and thereafter each month. A soluble, all purpose type of fertilizer is recommended for use. Coffee plants can be obtained through most online nurseries. Purchase the cultivar Coffea arabica ‘Nana’ if you desire a plant with more compact growth, thus reducing the necessity and frequency of cutting back coffee plant.
How to Prune a Coffee Plant
Due to their ability to attain a height of between 10 and 15 feet, not manageable in most homes, pruning of coffee houseplants is a necessity, not an option. Never fear; pruning coffee plants indoors is a simple process. When cutting back coffee plant, remember this plant is very forgiving and pruning back harshly won’t harm the plant at all. When pruning a coffee plant on a commercial plantation, trees are kept down to an easy-to-harvest 6 feet. This may be too large for your home and may necessitate more severe pruning of coffee plants indoors. Pruning a coffee plant may only require minimal pinching of new growth or it may involve cutting the plant way back. Pinching back the plant will not only restrain the tree’s height, but will encourage a bushier appearance. Coffee plant should be pruned back during the spring months to maintain a fuller, bushy appearance and generally shape the plant. Using clean, sharp pruning shears, cut the stem at a 45-degree angle, ¼-inch above where the leaf attaches to the stem (axil), paying attention to top growth to retard size. Remove any suckers at this time as well as any dead or dying limbs while leaving the largest branches.
Cuttings taken from the plant during pruning are difficult to propagate; however, if you want to make the attempt, use the young stems prior to hardening. Coffee plants make an easy, attractive plant that with a minimum of care you will be enjoying for many years.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Chinese evergreen plants (Aglaonemas spp.) are leafy plants popular in homes and offices. They thrive in low light and a mild, protected environment. They are compact plants and grow big leaves that are a mix of green and cream color. Pruning Chinese evergreen plant foliage is hardly ever required. However, there are times that trimming Chinese evergreens is appropriate. Keep reading for more information on when and how to cut back a Chinese evergreen.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
Chinese Evergreen Pruning
Many houseplants require regular or even constant pruning and pinching to keep them looking good. One of the advantages of Chinese evergreen is that they are very low maintenance. As long as you keep these plants in low light areas with temperatures of 65 to 75 F. (18-23 C.), they will likely thrive.
Because of the dense leafing of the plant, trimming Chinese evergreens is not a must. In fact, since new growth appears from the plant crown, pruning Chinese evergreen plant leaves can kill the entire plant. You may be tempted to pick up the pruners if the plant, as it matures, begins to look leggy. Experts suggest that you resist. Instead, consider planting pothos or another species of low-light plant, to fill in the bare spots.
How to Cut Back a Chinese Evergreen
Occasions for pruning Chinese evergreen plant are few and far between, but they do arise. Prune off any dead leaves in order to keep the houseplant looking its best. Trim them off as low as you can by reaching deep into the center of the plant. Another occasion for trimming Chinese evergreens comes in the spring, if the plant produces flowers. Blooms generally appear in the spring – watch for a spathe and spadix in the middle of the leaves.
You are probably helping the plant by removing these flowers since it lets the Chinese evergreen use that energy for foliage growth. Since the flowers are not extremely attractive, you will not suffer from their loss. If you feel badly pruning Chinese evergreen plant flowers off the plant, do it anyway. Remember that removing the blossoms is good for the longevity of the plant.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The cast iron plant (Aspidistra elatior), also known as iron plant and ballroom plant, is an extremely hardy houseplant and a perennial favorite in some regions. Growing cast iron plants is especially favored by those who don’t have a lot of time for plant care, as this species can survive even the most extreme conditions where other plants would shrivel and die, which makes cast iron plant care a snap. Keep reading to learn more about how to grow a cast iron plant indoors or using cast iron plants in the landscape.
How to Grow a Cast Iron Plant Indoors
Growing cast iron indoors is extremely easy and rewarding. This China native is a member of the lily family. The plant has small purple flowers that only appear near the soil surface and are hidden in its foliage. For what this plant may lack in glitz, however, it makes up for in robust, healthy dark green leaves. The cast iron plant grows well in low light indoors and is not finicky about regular water either. Although a slow grower, this reliable performer will live for many years, reaching a mature height of around 2 feet.
Growing Cast Iron Plants Outdoors
Various cast iron cultivars succeed where other vegetation will not. Using cast iron plant in the landscape is common as a ground cover under trees where other plants fail to thrive and in other hard-to-grow areas. You can also use is as a background plant in your flower bed or along with azaleas for a nice in-between filler plant.
Cast Iron Plant Care
Although the cast iron plant will tolerate extreme conditions, it’s always a good idea to provide plenty of water, especially during very dry periods. This plant also responds well to organic soil and an annual dose of all-purpose fertilizer. Propagate cast iron plants by division. Although new plants are slow to grow, with some patience and time, the new plant will thrive. This hardy plant thrives in very hot, dry summers and isn’t easily damaged by cold winters. Insects seem to leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease of any kind. When you want a plant with such ease of care and flexibility or when all else fails, give this easy-care plant a try. Grow cast iron indoors or try your hand at using cast iron plant in the landscape for a unique look.
How to Grow a Cast Iron Plant Indoors
Growing cast iron indoors is extremely easy and rewarding. This China native is a member of the lily family. The plant has small purple flowers that only appear near the soil surface and are hidden in its foliage. For what this plant may lack in glitz, however, it makes up for in robust, healthy dark green leaves. The cast iron plant grows well in low light indoors and is not finicky about regular water either. Although a slow grower, this reliable performer will live for many years, reaching a mature height of around 2 feet.
Growing Cast Iron Plants Outdoors
Various cast iron cultivars succeed where other vegetation will not. Using cast iron plant in the landscape is common as a ground cover under trees where other plants fail to thrive and in other hard-to-grow areas. You can also use is as a background plant in your flower bed or along with azaleas for a nice in-between filler plant.
Cast Iron Plant Care
Although the cast iron plant will tolerate extreme conditions, it’s always a good idea to provide plenty of water, especially during very dry periods. This plant also responds well to organic soil and an annual dose of all-purpose fertilizer. Propagate cast iron plants by division. Although new plants are slow to grow, with some patience and time, the new plant will thrive. This hardy plant thrives in very hot, dry summers and isn’t easily damaged by cold winters. Insects seem to leave it alone, and it very rarely is bothered by disease of any kind. When you want a plant with such ease of care and flexibility or when all else fails, give this easy-care plant a try. Grow cast iron indoors or try your hand at using cast iron plant in the landscape for a unique look.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
I love a plant with a descriptive and evocative name. Cardboard palm plant (Zamia furfuracea) is one of those ancient plants with a lot of character that can grow inside or outside depending upon your gardening zone. What is a Zamia cardboard palm? In fact, it isn’t a palm at all but a cycad — like the sago palm plant. Knowing how to grow Zamia palms starts with knowing your USDA planting zone. This little guy is not winter hardy in the majority of North American regions, but it makes an excellent container or houseplant anywhere. Grow it outdoors in USDA zones 9 to 11 year round.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
What is a Zamia Cardboard Palm?
We already ascertained that the plant is not a palm. Cycads, which have been around since the dinosaurs, form cones at the center of the plant. The cardboard palm plant is native to Mexico and has tropical tendencies in its preferred temperature and light levels. Zamia cardboard palm does have pinnate leaves like a palm tree, but they are rounded with a thick tuberous stem. The evergreen leaflets grow in opposing pairs of up to 12 per stem. It is a low growing plant that may spread 3 to 4 feet and an underground trunk. The trunk stores moisture in times of drought, which makes Zamia ideal for xeriscape gardens. Cardboard palm care requires enough moisture to keep the trunk fat and healthy. Never let it dry to the point that the trunk and stem are wrinkled or dry.
How to Grow Zamia Palms
Propagation of cardboard palm plants is inconsistent through seed. The plants come in male and female sexes. It may be difficult to tell which you have at first, but the male produces a large cone that protrudes from the core of the plant, while the female cone is smaller and flatter. Females may produce numerous bright red seeds when they are pollinated. They should be germinated in moist sand in flats indoors. Temperature range for germination is at least 65 F. (18 C.), but growing cardboard palms from seed is finicky business. Seeds should be sown immediately, as they are not viable for long. Once the seedling has emerged, it will look nothing like your adult plant. Young cardboard palm care includes moderate light until the second set of true leaves appears. Keep the sand moderately moist and transplant when the root base is robust.
Cardboard Palm Care
Maintenance is minimal when growing cardboard palms. Zamia thrives in moderate to bright light. It has a slow growth habit and does well in good potting soil as long as the container has excellent drainage. The plant is prone to some pests, such as spider mites, but its biggest problem is rot. Water deeply weekly in summer but reduce moisture in winter and fall by half. The thick underground trunk needs to be filled with stored water but over anxious growers may tend to overwater it and cause stem or crown rot. Once the crown is overtaken by fungal spores, it is nearly impossible to save. Prune off dead leaves as they occur and fertilize with a slow release palm food or a diluted household plant food once monthly during the growing season.
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