文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
When you have a bromeliad to care for, you might be wondering how to water a bromeliad. Watering bromeliads is no different than any other houseplant care; check your houseplants regularly for their soil being dry. Most plants need water when they are dry unless they are a picky plant, in which case, you should have some sort of direction as to how to handle the watering.
The Bromeliad Water Tank
Bromeliads grow in a many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don’t allow it to get empty. Don’t let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it’s best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.
Best Water for Bromeliads
If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quick because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.
Rewards for Watering Bromeliads
Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.
The Bromeliad Water Tank
Bromeliads grow in a many different conditions. When taking care of a bromeliad, water it well. The center of a bromeliad is called a tank or cup. This particular plant will hold water in its tank. Fill the tank in the center and don’t allow it to get empty. Don’t let the water sit for a long time or it will stagnate and possibly cause damage to the plant. Also, salt builds up so it’s best to flush it out. You will also need to change the water frequently, about once a week. Let the excess water drain in a drain pan or plate, and let the plant dry out before you decide to water it again.
Best Water for Bromeliads
If you can use it, rainwater is the best water for bromeliads because it is most natural. Distilled water also works well for watering bromeliads. Bromeliad water can also be tap water, but there may be a build up of salt and chemicals from tap water. Bromeliads are tough, carefree plants indoors. They provide color to a room and any problems you might encounter can be fixed pretty quick because the problems are usually caused by overwatering or failure to change the water. If your bromeliad is an outdoor plant, be sure to bring it in during freezing weather. If it freezes, there will be damage to the plant from the water in the tank.
Rewards for Watering Bromeliads
Healthy bromeliads come from being taken care of well. If you want to enjoy your plant for months and months, you want to be sure to take care of it. Remember that the water can be rainwater, filtered water or tap water, that watering bromeliads should be done when the soil is dry; and that how to water a bromeliad is not much different than watering any other houseplant.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Aechmea fasciata, the urn plant bromeliad, comes to us from the South American rainforests. It is an epiphyte, commonly called an air plant, and in the wild it grows on other plants where it receives moisture from heavy rains and nutrients from decaying debris around its roots. This is important to urn plant care in your home as you will try to mimic its natural conditions.
Tips for Urn Plant Care
In the rainforests, rainwater gathers in the stiff rosette of leaves that forms the urn. Plant care in the home consists of keeping the center filled with water at all times. For a healthy plant, the water should be emptied on refilled once a week to prevent stagnation. Watch out for dry brown edges of the leaves. It’s a sign of dehydration in your urn plant. Care should also be taken with the soil. Keep it moist, but don’t overwater. Soggy soil will cause rot at the base of your urn plant bromeliad.
You can fertilize your urn plant bromeliad by misting with a weak foliar spray or by adding a half strength solution to the water at its center once a month. If you live in a hardiness zone of 10b or 11, you can grow urn plants outside as long as you keep them well watered. They aren’t fussy about soil when grown outdoors, but caring for an urn plant indoor is a bit different. Once again, look at how they grow in the wild. Silt, decaying debris and bits of leaf and bark cling to and build up around the roots of the epiphyte. In your chosen pot at home, you should try to duplicate this soft, well aerated soil. Orchid potting mix is ideal for this or, if you prefer to mix your own, mix peat moss, perlite and finely shredded pine bark in equal parts. You need a soil that remains light and well aerated so the roots can easily spread. Urn plants prefer bright light, but not direct sun, and can suffer scorched leaves if moved too quickly from indoors to out during the summer months. They do best in temperatures between 65 and 75 F.(12-24 C.), although they can tolerate higher with regular misting.
How to Get an Urn Plant to Bloom
Almost everyone who tries to grow urn plants wants them to bloom. Those colorful, long lasting bracts rising from the center of the plant are the ultimate reward in caring for an urn plant. A plant must be at least three years old before it produces a flower stem. One of the most common complaints of gardeners is the failure of bracts to grow. Urn plants need good light and plenty of it for bract production. If light isn’t the problem, then it may be a lack of ethylene gas. To encourage blooming, try placing a quartered apple on top of the soil and using a plastic bag to cover both pot and urn plant.
Bromeliad plants bloom only once before they die, but don’t despair. They leave several lovely gifts behind. Once the bract turns brown, continue caring for your urn plant as before even as the leaves turn brown and die. Beneath the dying leaves you’ll find two or more “pups” — baby urn plants. Allow these pups to grown in place until they are 6 inches tall which usually takes five or six months, and then transfer them to pots of their own.
Tips for Urn Plant Care
In the rainforests, rainwater gathers in the stiff rosette of leaves that forms the urn. Plant care in the home consists of keeping the center filled with water at all times. For a healthy plant, the water should be emptied on refilled once a week to prevent stagnation. Watch out for dry brown edges of the leaves. It’s a sign of dehydration in your urn plant. Care should also be taken with the soil. Keep it moist, but don’t overwater. Soggy soil will cause rot at the base of your urn plant bromeliad.
You can fertilize your urn plant bromeliad by misting with a weak foliar spray or by adding a half strength solution to the water at its center once a month. If you live in a hardiness zone of 10b or 11, you can grow urn plants outside as long as you keep them well watered. They aren’t fussy about soil when grown outdoors, but caring for an urn plant indoor is a bit different. Once again, look at how they grow in the wild. Silt, decaying debris and bits of leaf and bark cling to and build up around the roots of the epiphyte. In your chosen pot at home, you should try to duplicate this soft, well aerated soil. Orchid potting mix is ideal for this or, if you prefer to mix your own, mix peat moss, perlite and finely shredded pine bark in equal parts. You need a soil that remains light and well aerated so the roots can easily spread. Urn plants prefer bright light, but not direct sun, and can suffer scorched leaves if moved too quickly from indoors to out during the summer months. They do best in temperatures between 65 and 75 F.(12-24 C.), although they can tolerate higher with regular misting.
How to Get an Urn Plant to Bloom
Almost everyone who tries to grow urn plants wants them to bloom. Those colorful, long lasting bracts rising from the center of the plant are the ultimate reward in caring for an urn plant. A plant must be at least three years old before it produces a flower stem. One of the most common complaints of gardeners is the failure of bracts to grow. Urn plants need good light and plenty of it for bract production. If light isn’t the problem, then it may be a lack of ethylene gas. To encourage blooming, try placing a quartered apple on top of the soil and using a plastic bag to cover both pot and urn plant.
Bromeliad plants bloom only once before they die, but don’t despair. They leave several lovely gifts behind. Once the bract turns brown, continue caring for your urn plant as before even as the leaves turn brown and die. Beneath the dying leaves you’ll find two or more “pups” — baby urn plants. Allow these pups to grown in place until they are 6 inches tall which usually takes five or six months, and then transfer them to pots of their own.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The variegated pineapple plant is grown for its foliage, not for its fruit. The gorgeous bright red, green and cream striped leaves are held rigidly off a low stem. Their bright fruit is attractive but rather bitter. The plants make lovely and interesting houseplants, or warm season potted outdoor plants. The pineapple flowering houseplant is a bromeliad and requires similar care. Care for the variegated pineapple is the same as an edible pineapple, but don’t expect fruiting overnight. Both types can take up to five years to produce fruit.
Pineapple Bromeliad Varieties
Bromeliads are a family of sometimes stemless, sometimes epiphytic plants. They may also be grown in an almost soil-free environment made up of other materials such as sand, peat and bark. Bromeliads are common in warm areas with high humidity. There are hundreds of varieties of pineapple. Not all of them produce a yellow fleshed fruit armored in green. There are also red and blue varieties. The best pineapple bromeliad varieties for home growers are the miniature types. These plants are easier to keep to container size, so you can move them in and protect them in case of freezing weather.
Variegated Pineapple Plant
Pineapples are only hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11. These warm season plants can be grown inside as striking houseplants. The variegated form is colorful and lively, well suited for a partially sunny room. Growing variegated pineapples in full sun is not recommended as the best color comes in lower light areas. The plant is a novelty plant and not as easy to find as the regular pineapple bromeliad varieties. Mature plants can produce a flower within a year of planting. To start your own pineapple flowering houseplant, harvest a fruit and cut the top off. Let the top dry on the counter for a day or two. Plant the base in a mixture of orchid bark and sand that is lightly moist. Keep somewhat moist until the top roots, taking care not to overwater, which will make the fruit top rot. You can also remove any offsets and plant them. Let these root and you will soon be growing variegated pineapples to share with friends and family.
Care for Variegated Pineapple
Pineapples require medium light, soil low in organic amendments and moderate moisture. The plant can tolerate short periods of drought with no ill effects. They can be prone to several pests, including aphids, whitefly and scale. Rinse off soft bodied pests and use a horticultural soap to combat the others. Fertilize every two weeks in spring until dormancy in fall. Use a diluted liquid plant fertilizer. Water thoroughly each time, but allow the surface of the soil to dry out before applying more water. Variegated pineapple plant must be kept where temperatures are between 65 and 82 F. (50 and 28 C.) with high humidity for best growth. Mimic the growing conditions of a Hawaiian island and you are guaranteed success with your pineapple flowering houseplant!
Pineapple Bromeliad Varieties
Bromeliads are a family of sometimes stemless, sometimes epiphytic plants. They may also be grown in an almost soil-free environment made up of other materials such as sand, peat and bark. Bromeliads are common in warm areas with high humidity. There are hundreds of varieties of pineapple. Not all of them produce a yellow fleshed fruit armored in green. There are also red and blue varieties. The best pineapple bromeliad varieties for home growers are the miniature types. These plants are easier to keep to container size, so you can move them in and protect them in case of freezing weather.
Variegated Pineapple Plant
Pineapples are only hardy in USDA zones 10 to 11. These warm season plants can be grown inside as striking houseplants. The variegated form is colorful and lively, well suited for a partially sunny room. Growing variegated pineapples in full sun is not recommended as the best color comes in lower light areas. The plant is a novelty plant and not as easy to find as the regular pineapple bromeliad varieties. Mature plants can produce a flower within a year of planting. To start your own pineapple flowering houseplant, harvest a fruit and cut the top off. Let the top dry on the counter for a day or two. Plant the base in a mixture of orchid bark and sand that is lightly moist. Keep somewhat moist until the top roots, taking care not to overwater, which will make the fruit top rot. You can also remove any offsets and plant them. Let these root and you will soon be growing variegated pineapples to share with friends and family.
Care for Variegated Pineapple
Pineapples require medium light, soil low in organic amendments and moderate moisture. The plant can tolerate short periods of drought with no ill effects. They can be prone to several pests, including aphids, whitefly and scale. Rinse off soft bodied pests and use a horticultural soap to combat the others. Fertilize every two weeks in spring until dormancy in fall. Use a diluted liquid plant fertilizer. Water thoroughly each time, but allow the surface of the soil to dry out before applying more water. Variegated pineapple plant must be kept where temperatures are between 65 and 82 F. (50 and 28 C.) with high humidity for best growth. Mimic the growing conditions of a Hawaiian island and you are guaranteed success with your pineapple flowering houseplant!
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
The flaming sword houseplant, Vriesea splendens, is one of the most common bromeliads used for indoor decoration and is one of the showiest. You may already have one in your houseplant collection and wonder how to grow flaming sword plants. Vriesea flaming sword info says there are 250 varieties of Vriesea, providing a range of color in both foliage and colorful bracts. The flaming sword houseplant is commonly named for its red bracts that appear when the plant is three to five years old. It is an epiphyte in its native habitat.
How to Grow Flaming Sword Plants
The flaming sword houseplant grows best in a one to one mix of regular potting soil and orchid mix. Special soil for bromeliads is sometimes available at the local garden center. Vriesea flaming sword info indicates a special display for the plant can eliminate the need for growing in soil. Attach the plant to a slab or large piece of bark reminiscent of its native habitat to provide an interesting display.
Care of Vriesea Plants
Locate the flaming sword houseplant in bright, indirect light indoors. Allow some direct morning or evening sun in winter, if possible. Care of Vriesea plants includes keeping them in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.), but no warmer than 80 F (27 C). As with other bromeliads, the flaming sword houseplant has a cup or tank in the middle of the plant. Keep this cup filled with water. Vriesea flaming sword info says watering for this plant should be minimal. Soil should be no more than lightly moist and never allowed to completely dry out. The top half of the plant can be allowed to dry out between waterings. This bromeliad does, however, like high humidity. Mist the plant frequently or place it on a pebble tray indoors or near the company of other houseplants that transpire. Fifty percent humidity is necessary for optimum performance of Vriesea flaming sword.
More Vriesea Flaming Sword Info
The flaming sword houseplant blooms just once and begins to decline, but it provides more plants before passing away, as small offsets called pups can be removed from the mother plant. Sever pups when they are one-half to two-thirds the size of the mother plant. Thus, the process begins again. In three to five years you can expect blooming bracts on the babies and another round of pups to propagate.
How to Grow Flaming Sword Plants
The flaming sword houseplant grows best in a one to one mix of regular potting soil and orchid mix. Special soil for bromeliads is sometimes available at the local garden center. Vriesea flaming sword info indicates a special display for the plant can eliminate the need for growing in soil. Attach the plant to a slab or large piece of bark reminiscent of its native habitat to provide an interesting display.
Care of Vriesea Plants
Locate the flaming sword houseplant in bright, indirect light indoors. Allow some direct morning or evening sun in winter, if possible. Care of Vriesea plants includes keeping them in temperatures above 60 F. (16 C.), but no warmer than 80 F (27 C). As with other bromeliads, the flaming sword houseplant has a cup or tank in the middle of the plant. Keep this cup filled with water. Vriesea flaming sword info says watering for this plant should be minimal. Soil should be no more than lightly moist and never allowed to completely dry out. The top half of the plant can be allowed to dry out between waterings. This bromeliad does, however, like high humidity. Mist the plant frequently or place it on a pebble tray indoors or near the company of other houseplants that transpire. Fifty percent humidity is necessary for optimum performance of Vriesea flaming sword.
More Vriesea Flaming Sword Info
The flaming sword houseplant blooms just once and begins to decline, but it provides more plants before passing away, as small offsets called pups can be removed from the mother plant. Sever pups when they are one-half to two-thirds the size of the mother plant. Thus, the process begins again. In three to five years you can expect blooming bracts on the babies and another round of pups to propagate.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Low maintenance plants are hard to find. Tillandsias offer unique form, ease of care and just a fun way to bring the outdoors in to your home. Tillandsia sky plant (Tillandsia ionantha) is a superior specimen which doesn’t require traditional pot and soil combinations. This member of the Bromeliad family will grow epiphytically on a variety of organic surfaces. Learn how to grow a Tillandsia for a family-friendly plant that will make you look differently at plant presentation and care.
Sky Plant Bromeliads
Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world, but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.
Care of Tillandsia
Once you get your air plant mounted, Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.
How to Grow Tillandsia to Share
Propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.
Sky Plant Bromeliads
Bromeliads are found in most areas of the world, but are mostly tropical to subtropical plants. They grow without root support in soil and can even be found in habitat hanging from trees. Tillandsia sky plant is a member of this family and produces a rosette form of leaves that funnel to a central core. The plant is native from Mexico to Nicaragua and naturally grows on trees and even rock faces. Sky plant bromeliads are easy to grow and make interesting presentations on bark or logs. If you are lucky and provide a good climate and care of Tillandsia, it will reward you with purple flowers or bracts in winter.
Care of Tillandsia
Once you get your air plant mounted, Tillandsia sky plant is one of the easiest plants to maintain. They are usually sold already mounted, but if not, you can attach the plant at its base to a cork bark form, branch or even shell. You can also place it freely into a terrarium or wedged among some rocks. The key to growing sky plant is humidity. Mist the plant daily or place sky plant bromeliads in the kitchen or bathroom, where humidity is naturally high. Temperatures should be at least 60 F. (16 C.), but temps around 50 F. (10 C.). in winter will help force flowering. Fertilize weekly with a half dilution of household plant fertilizer applied as a foliar mist. These plants perform best in indirect but bright light.
How to Grow Tillandsia to Share
Propagation of Tillandsia is simple. Growing sky plant from offshoots or “pups” is the best way to create new plants. Pups grow at the base of the mother plant. When they are half the size of the parent, use a sharp knife to divide the pup from the original growth. Plant it in the same manner by fixing to a board, or baby it for a while in a peat mix until the plant is healthy and ready for mounting. You can mount plants with glue, wire or even just temporarily fix them with paperclips until roots grow into the substrate or mounting form.
1
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
A new owner of Tillandsia may wonder “can you water an air plant too much?” How often to mist air plants depends upon the type, the situation and the size of the plant as well as the environment. There are three main ways to keep your air plant moist. Once you know all three, you can decide which way will work best for your plant. This article will tell you the methods and how often to mist air plants. Then you will be on your way to healthy, happy Tillandsia of any variety.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
Can You Water an Air Plant Too Much?
Tillandsia, or air plants, are one of the more unique forms of flora on our planet. Air plants are often thought to require no water because they harness it from the air and occasional rain storms. In their native regions, this is almost true but in the home setting, ambient air is too arid and no sudden storms will pass by. Tillandsia need regular moisture but should not be overwatered. This can pose a problem with mounted air plants, but we’ll walk through a couple of methods of keeping your plant moist.
Air plants are bromeliads and epiphytic. They tend to grow on logs, in cracks and crevasses, and even off live plants, although they are not parasitic. They are most common in tropical forest settings, although a few live in more arid climates. Just like any plant, air plants need regular water, light and food. They are trickier than other houseplants because they are in a soilless environment, often mounted on something or inside a terrarium or glass bowl. The lack of media to hold moisture and nutrients poses a dilemma on how to keep them healthy. Air plant misting is the most common method of watering but it doesn’t get plant roots really well moistened and can cause leaves to have fungal issues if the plant isn’t in good ventilation where leaves dry quickly. Spraying air plants is best to increase humidity in really dry homes and climates.
How Do I Water an Air Plant?
The method of watering will depend upon the style of installation of your air plant. There are three main ways to water Tillandsia. Misting is the first, rinsing the second and soaking the third. Now the last two will obviously not work on a mounted specimen unless the mount is safe to have wet. How often to mist air plants? In this case, mist the plants 3 to 7 times a week, depending how dry your home air is and what time of year. Summertime plants need more water while they can sustain on less in winter. Rinsing the plants requires you to remove them from their mount and place them in a sieve to be rinsed thoroughly. All parts need to well soaked, including foliage and roots. Soaking is the more thorough method but, again, requires removing the plant from its display. Soak the plant 1 or 2 times per week for 5 hours.
When Spraying Air Plants is Most Beneficial
Air plant misting is not the most effective method of watering the plants but it is the most convenient because it allows you to provide moisture in the plant’s setting. Otherwise, you will have to remove the wire that holds the plant on its display and rinse or soak to really get moisture into the roots. In winter, when water needs are lower, misting is an adequate way to give the plant the minimum of water. Additionally, in summer when temperatures soar, a nice water bath in the form of spraying will refresh heat-stressed plants. If you want your air plant really healthy, however, misting is just not going to do a good enough job providing moisture. Dunk or soak your plant at least two times per month if you are primarily misting to give it moisture. This can provide the deep water intake the plant needs to sustain in its aerial setting.
0
1
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliads are fun, tough little plants that have become popular as houseplants. The Dyckia group of bromeliads primarily come from Brazil. What are Dyckia plants? These are semi-succulent rosettes that may produce some astounding flower spikes. Some of the varieties are terrestrial while others are found on rocks in their native range. They have remarkable drought tolerance for short periods of time and can even withstand a brief freeze. All in all, growing these plants is easy and rewarding, but a little Dyckia plant info should put you on the path to ensured success.
What are Dyckia Plants?
Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions
Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care
While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
What are Dyckia Plants?
Dyckia are bromeliads sharing that group’s characteristic rosette shape. They are not technically succulents, as they do not store water in their leaves, but they do have similar thick, waxy foliage. Dyckia are xeriscape plants and can withstand long periods without moisture. The leaves vary from long and strappy to short and scalloped. All foliage is fairly rigid and may be smooth or serrated, a solid color or variegated or spotted. Long stalks with multiple red, yellow, or orange flowers appear in spring. The wide range of varieties ensures that there is a specimen for every taste. In addition to Brazil, these bromeliads are also found in Uraguay, Paraguay, Argetina and Bolivia. A bonus bit of Dyckia plant info; the genus is named for Prince von Salm-Kyck, an amateur collector of succulents.
Dyckia Growing Conditions
Most of the plants we cultivate in the group Dyckia are from Brazil. They survive in warm regions with heavy rainfall for half the year and very dry conditions the rest of the time. This makes Dyckia care slightly challenging, as getting the right balance of moisture to keep the plant happy may be difficult. Dyckia growing conditions in their natural setting should be mimicked as much as possible. Try growing Dyckia plants outside in summer or year around in warmer regions. In their native region, it is not uncommon to find some forms of Dyckia growing on top of rocks near water. Water and the cycle of the monsoon season are important features to Dyckia health. They are used to rather poor soil when they do grow in ground and should be planted in a good succulent mixture. Dyckia need full sun and temperatures of up to 90 degrees Fahrenheit (32 C.) to thrive. Beware of exposing the plants to freezing temperatures for more than a brief time as they are not cold hardy. Temperatures below 40 degrees Fahrenheit (4 C.) seem to be the limit of Dyckia growing conditions. Dyckia are exposed to harsh sun and very dry conditions for most of the year. Then the rainy season appears and the plants are half drowned. Contrary to common sense, they seem to love this treatment and plants are healthiest when the monsoon season is harsh and long.
Dyckia Bromeliad Care
While actively growing, the plants need regular water to produce happy plants. The soil should not be soggy but evenly moist at all times. Use a saucer under potted plants to keep the roots from sitting in water but allow for evaporation and consistent humidity. In winter, when growth is dormant, you may reduce the amount of water by half. Fertilize from spring to fall with a half strength liquid plant food. In the wild, the plants form pups or offsets, which result in new plants. The same is true in container grown plants and these can be divided away from the parent with ease. The plants set seed readily when flowers are present and these germinate quickly. However, they also freely hybridize and the species resulting from the seed may not represent the parent. There are very few cautions or surprises with Dyckia bromeliad care. They are unfussy, hardy little plants that thrive even in slightly neglectful conditions.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
What is it about air plants (Tillandsia) that make them so fascinating? Air plants are epiphytic plants, which means that unlike most other plants, their survival doesn’t depend on soil. Instead, they draw moisture and nutrients through their leaves. Although air plant care is minimal, the plant can sometimes begin to look sickly – shriveled, limp, brown or droopy. Can you revive an air plant in this condition? Yes, at least if the plant isn’t too far gone. Read on to learn about reviving a Tillandsia.
How to Revive an Air Plant
Why do my air plants keep dying? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or brown, there’s a good chance that the plant is extremely thirsty. Although misting the plant is often recommended, spritzing usually doesn’t provide enough moisture to keep the plant healthy and hydrated.
If you determine that this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia means returning the plant to a healthy well-hydrated state. The easiest way to accomplish this is to soak the entire plant in a bowl or bucket of lukewarm water. You may need to tie the plant to a heavy object to keep it from floating to the top of the water. Place the bowl in a warm location and let it soak for 12 hours. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and allow it to air dry before returning the plant to its regular location. If the plant continues to look dry and sickly, repeat the procedure, but this time leave the Tillandsia submerged for only about four hours. Hold the plant upside-down and shake gently to remove excess moisture from the leaves.
Air Plant Care
To keep a Tillandsia well hydrated, soak the plant in a bowl of warm water for an hour every week during the summer, decreasing to once every three weeks during the winter months (Some people find that a 10-minute soak is enough, so watch your plant closely to determine its particular needs. If the plant begins to look swollen, it’s absorbing too much water and will benefit from a shorter bath.). Place your air plant in bright, indirect or filtered sunlight from spring until fall. Move it into direct light during the winter months. You may need to supplement winter sunlight with full spectrum artificial lights for about 12 hours per day. Ensure Tillandsia receives adequate air circulation. If your air plant is in a container, uncover the container and place it in an airy location. Alternatively, remove the Tillandsia from the container for a full day every week.
Always shake excess water off your Tillandsia after watering, then allow it to dry in a colander or on a layer of paper towels. The plant can be damaged if water is allowed to remain on the leaves. If your Tillandisa is in a sea shell, empty the shell as needed to be sure the plant isn’t sitting in water. Feed Tillandisa a bromeliad fertilizer twice a month. Alternatively, apply a regular, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or orchid food highly diluted at a rate of one pinch per gallon of water.
How to Revive an Air Plant
Why do my air plants keep dying? If your Tillandsia isn’t looking its best, especially if it’s shriveled or brown, there’s a good chance that the plant is extremely thirsty. Although misting the plant is often recommended, spritzing usually doesn’t provide enough moisture to keep the plant healthy and hydrated.
If you determine that this is the case, reviving a Tillandsia means returning the plant to a healthy well-hydrated state. The easiest way to accomplish this is to soak the entire plant in a bowl or bucket of lukewarm water. You may need to tie the plant to a heavy object to keep it from floating to the top of the water. Place the bowl in a warm location and let it soak for 12 hours. Remove the plant from the bowl, place it on a layer of paper towels, and allow it to air dry before returning the plant to its regular location. If the plant continues to look dry and sickly, repeat the procedure, but this time leave the Tillandsia submerged for only about four hours. Hold the plant upside-down and shake gently to remove excess moisture from the leaves.
Air Plant Care
To keep a Tillandsia well hydrated, soak the plant in a bowl of warm water for an hour every week during the summer, decreasing to once every three weeks during the winter months (Some people find that a 10-minute soak is enough, so watch your plant closely to determine its particular needs. If the plant begins to look swollen, it’s absorbing too much water and will benefit from a shorter bath.). Place your air plant in bright, indirect or filtered sunlight from spring until fall. Move it into direct light during the winter months. You may need to supplement winter sunlight with full spectrum artificial lights for about 12 hours per day. Ensure Tillandsia receives adequate air circulation. If your air plant is in a container, uncover the container and place it in an airy location. Alternatively, remove the Tillandsia from the container for a full day every week.
Always shake excess water off your Tillandsia after watering, then allow it to dry in a colander or on a layer of paper towels. The plant can be damaged if water is allowed to remain on the leaves. If your Tillandisa is in a sea shell, empty the shell as needed to be sure the plant isn’t sitting in water. Feed Tillandisa a bromeliad fertilizer twice a month. Alternatively, apply a regular, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to one-quarter strength, or orchid food highly diluted at a rate of one pinch per gallon of water.
0
0
文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Bromeliad plants provide an exotic touch to the home and bring a sense of the tropics and sun-kissed climates. Growing a bromeliad as a houseplant is easy and brings interesting texture and color to the interior garden. Learn how to care for a bromeliad plant and you will have a long lasting unique houseplant that is low maintenance.
Bromeliad Plants
The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads
These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant
Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.
Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup
Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
Bromeliad Plants
The unusual appearance of the bromeliad would seem to indicate that the plant is high maintenance and requires special gardening skills. The plant is prized for its thick foliage that grows in a natural rosette. Near the end of its life, a bromeliad plant may produce an inflorescence or flower whose form and color vary widely among each variety. The wide leaves are sword shaped or scoop-like and grow around a central “cup.” This cup catches water in the plant’s habitat. Bromeliad plants are often epiphytic and cling to trees or other structures. They are not parasitic but simply use the structures as perches from which to gather sun and moisture.
How to Grow Bromeliads
These plants are widely available at nurseries and garden centers. The plants need medium to bright light as indoor specimens. New gardeners learning how to grow bromeliads will find that the plant doesn’t need deep pots or thick potting soils. They do even better in shallow pots and may grow in low soil mediums such as orchid mix, a blend of bark, sphagnum moss and other organic amendments.
How to Care for a Bromeliad Plant
Bromeliad plant care is easy and requires no special tools or fertilizers. Feed the plants with a half strength fertilizer every month in the growing season. Water needs are easily achieved by filling the cup at the base of the leaves. The water that collects in the pot should be emptied out weekly to remove debris and the dead insects the stagnant water tends to lure into the cup. Set the pot in a saucer of gravel filled partially with water to increase humidity and help provide a moist atmosphere. Make sure the roots are not submerged in the water or this might invite rot. Some bromeliads grow well as “air plants,” which are glued or nested onto logs, moss or other non-soil organic items. You may have seen Tillandsia plants wired onto coconut shells with no soil. These plants collect all the food and moisture they need with their leaves but need a little help from you in the indoor setting.
Bromeliad Life Cyle: Growing a Bromeliad Pup
Don’t label yourself a black thumb if your bromeliad plant begins to die within a year or two. These epiphytes are not long lived but will generally start to die back after flowering. Although interior bromeliad plants will fail after a while and cease growth, they will produce offsets, or pups, that you can remove and start as new plants. Watch for pups at the base of the plant and nurture them until they are large enough to break away from the parent plant. To remove them, cut them away from the parent and then plant them in sphagnum moss mix or any well-draining medium. Then sadly, it’s off to the compost pile with the original bromeliad plant, but you will be left with a little carbon copy that you can tend to its full maturity when the cycle starts all over again. These baby bromeliads require the same care as the parent plant. As soon as the pup forms a cup, it is important to keep it filled with water so the new plant receives adequate moisture. Growing bromeliads is a rewarding hobby that can continue for years if you harvest the pups.
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose bush plants come in containers, with fully developed root systems, or as bare-root plants, in boxes of peat to keep them moist. When you plant the rose bush in hardiness zone 8 depends on which type it is.
Hardiness Zone 8 Characteristics
USDA hardiness zone 8a has lows of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, and USDA hardiness zone 8b has lows of 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. An example of a city in zone 8a is Dallas, Texas. Gainesville, Florida, is in zone 8b.
USDA Zone Ratings & Roses
Most roses are rated with a minimum zone of cold hardiness. For instance, a rose plant hardy to USDA zone 3 can withstand temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Rose plants listed for USDA hardiness zone 8 can not withstand severe temperatures but do well in extreme heat.
Planting Times
Rose bushes should be planted when the soil is cool and moist. In regions within USDA hardiness zone 8, January is the best time to plant bare-root rose plants. Containerized rose plants, which have more developed root systems, can be planted year-round.
Hardiness Zone 8 Characteristics
USDA hardiness zone 8a has lows of 10 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit, and USDA hardiness zone 8b has lows of 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. An example of a city in zone 8a is Dallas, Texas. Gainesville, Florida, is in zone 8b.
USDA Zone Ratings & Roses
Most roses are rated with a minimum zone of cold hardiness. For instance, a rose plant hardy to USDA zone 3 can withstand temperatures as low as -40 degrees Fahrenheit. Rose plants listed for USDA hardiness zone 8 can not withstand severe temperatures but do well in extreme heat.
Planting Times
Rose bushes should be planted when the soil is cool and moist. In regions within USDA hardiness zone 8, January is the best time to plant bare-root rose plants. Containerized rose plants, which have more developed root systems, can be planted year-round.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses add beauty to any living space, but when their blooms begin to droop you have to act fast to prevent further damage to your plants. As beautiful as roses may be, they are not without problems. Roses are susceptible to pests and disease and even something as simple as an environmental change could seriously threaten the health of your roses.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
Disease
Verticillium wilt causes drooping, as well as yellowing or pale foliage and dying stems. Botrytis blight makes buds droop and causes lesions on the plant as well as decay of buds. Management of these diseases often includes trimming away any damaged foliage or flowers, transplanting the plant in an uninfested area, and treating it with fungicides to kill off any lingering disease. Never leave a diseased rose around healthy roses or you risk infesting those roses with a droop-inducing disease.
Pests
Pests may also cause roses to droop. Drooping canes, or stems, of roses may be caused by pests called borers. Borers are the larvae of insects. Types of borers include rose stem sawfly, rose stem girdler and raspberry cane borer. These larvae dig their way into the stems of rose bushes, producing a wilt or droop in the foliage, stems and new growth on the plants. Borers are treated by pruning away areas of the plant affected with pests or covering openings on the plant's stems with paint or putty to prevent reentry. Insect pests called thrips infest flowers of roses, causing drooping flowers. Treat thrips with insecticide.
Water
Dehydration causes blooms and foliage to droop. Roses need to stay hydrated, so water thoroughly two to four times weekly. Keep soil moist, never soggy, as overwatering also causes roses to droop. Allow soil to dry out slightly between waterings. Water roses in the morning to prevent diseases such as powdery mildew. As a general rule, do not wet the rose's flowers or foliage, as this also increases risk of disease. Once weekly, spray the rose bush with water in the morning to wash away any dust, pests or mildew. Do this on a sunny day allowing the rose plenty of time to dry out.
Roses in Vases
If you choose to enjoy cut roses indoors, it is quite disappointing to discover your fresh roses have begun to droop. This occurs because roses are cut too soon or left out of water too long before being placed into a vase. To rescue your roses, remove your roses from the vase and place them into fresh, lukewarm water. Separate the roses while they are in this water. Cut 1 inch off of the stem of each rose, while keeping the stem in the water. Roll each individual flower in its own sheet of newspaper, holding it closed with a rubber band. Place the individually wrapped roses into a tub of water, allowing them to soak for two to four hours. Remove the roses from the water, then unwrap and place into a vase of fresh warm water.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Acidic soils can cause nutritional problems for many plants, including a plant's inability to absorb phosphorous, nitrogen and potassium. However, many species tolerate or even require mildly acidic conditions to grow well. Roses do well in a slight-to-moderate acid soil, but even these acid-loving plants can't tolerate high acidic locations.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
Acid Soils
Abundant rain often creates acidic soil conditions, because rainwater itself is slightly acid. Other factors that encourage acidic soil include heavy local forest cover or large amounts of decaying organic matter, such as compost. Acid soils can increase the risk of some plant problems, such as slow growth or dead tissue at the edges of leaves. Roses grown in highly acid soils may have yellowed, spotty leaves. They also suffer from zinc, manganese, iron and aluminum toxicity and show reduced flowering.
Rose Soil Preferences
Roses grow best in slightly acid soil, with a pH of 6.5 to 6.8. This allows for the best uptake of major nutrients. However, many varieties will still grow well in soils as acid as pH 5.5. Excessively alkaline soils can cause manganese and iron deficiencies.
Raising pH
In areas where the soil pH is too low, or acidic, add alkaline soil amendments to create conditions where roses grow successfully. Raise soil pH by adding ground limestone directly to the surface of the soil around the plant. You can also mix agricultural lime or wood ash into the soil around your roses. These materials are more alkaline and can cause "burn" damage to rosebushes if applied too heavily. Apply these soil amendments only every other year.
Lowering pH
Excessively alkaline soils, such as those found in prairie areas and arid regions, or in areas where the soil contains large amounts of natural limestone, may need acidic soil amendments for roses to thrive. Add shredded leaves, sawdust, peat or pine needles to your soil before planting. This decaying organic material will decrease the pH of the soil. Organic material takes time to work, however. Apply sulfur soil additives around existing rosebushes for a more significant effect.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Perennials are plants that live for more than three years, returning each spring as the weather warms up to once again brighten the landscape. With more than 150 species, roses have been in existence for more than 35 million years. While roses in the home garden may not last quite that long, proper site selection, planting, care and pruning will ensure that perennial roses do continue to bloom every year.
Roses are perennials that need the right care to bloom from year to year.
Site Selection
When purchasing roses for the garden, select varieties that are hardy to the U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone for the area. Roses need full sun, well-drained soil and good air circulation. Morning sun is beneficial as it helps to dry the leaves and prevent possible disease, and some afternoon shade will prolong the quality of the blooms. Roses will adapt to most soil types but prefer a fertile spot. When planting, enhance the area with organic material like compost or manure to increase the soil quality. The ideal soil pH for roses is 6.0 to 7.0; ensure the bed is properly prepared before planting.
Planting Roses
Dig the hole deep and wide enough to accommodate plant roots, keeping the bud union level with the soil. Place the plant in the hole, fill two-thirds with soil, and add water, creating a muddy mix that gets through the roots. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the mud process until reaching the original soil level.
Fertilization
Roses need 1 inch of water per week and sandy soil, and dry spells will require an increased watering frequency. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses because they deliver consistent moisture while keeping the leaves dry. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the season and again in mid-June, surrounding the plant 6 inches out. For roses that bloom repeatedly, apply another light fertilization in the middle of July, but do not apply any more after mid-August as it may promote growth that will not survive the winter.
Winter Care
Keeping roses consistently cold and frozen rather than experiencing freezing and thawing numerous times is key to winter survival. As winter approaches, mound roses with 12 inches of a soil/compost mix, pruning any tall plants to prevent stem damage. Once the mound freezes, cover with evergreen cuttings or straw to help insulate the plant. A rose that goes into winter healthy has a good chance of coming out of the winter healthy so good summer care is essential.
Pruning
Pruning requirements vary depending on the type of rose, but all roses share the same pruning basics. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove all dead wood or any canes that are thin, not growing well or weak, and deadhead any spent flowers at an outward-facing bud above a group of five or seven leaflets.
Roses are perennials that need the right care to bloom from year to year.
Site Selection
When purchasing roses for the garden, select varieties that are hardy to the U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zone for the area. Roses need full sun, well-drained soil and good air circulation. Morning sun is beneficial as it helps to dry the leaves and prevent possible disease, and some afternoon shade will prolong the quality of the blooms. Roses will adapt to most soil types but prefer a fertile spot. When planting, enhance the area with organic material like compost or manure to increase the soil quality. The ideal soil pH for roses is 6.0 to 7.0; ensure the bed is properly prepared before planting.
Planting Roses
Dig the hole deep and wide enough to accommodate plant roots, keeping the bud union level with the soil. Place the plant in the hole, fill two-thirds with soil, and add water, creating a muddy mix that gets through the roots. After the water has drained, add more soil and repeat the mud process until reaching the original soil level.
Fertilization
Roses need 1 inch of water per week and sandy soil, and dry spells will require an increased watering frequency. Soaker hoses are ideal for roses because they deliver consistent moisture while keeping the leaves dry. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer early in the season and again in mid-June, surrounding the plant 6 inches out. For roses that bloom repeatedly, apply another light fertilization in the middle of July, but do not apply any more after mid-August as it may promote growth that will not survive the winter.
Winter Care
Keeping roses consistently cold and frozen rather than experiencing freezing and thawing numerous times is key to winter survival. As winter approaches, mound roses with 12 inches of a soil/compost mix, pruning any tall plants to prevent stem damage. Once the mound freezes, cover with evergreen cuttings or straw to help insulate the plant. A rose that goes into winter healthy has a good chance of coming out of the winter healthy so good summer care is essential.
Pruning
Pruning requirements vary depending on the type of rose, but all roses share the same pruning basics. Use clean, sharp pruners and cut at a 45-degree angle. Remove all dead wood or any canes that are thin, not growing well or weak, and deadhead any spent flowers at an outward-facing bud above a group of five or seven leaflets.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Most plants are divided into two major categories, monocots and dicots. Both types of plants are leafy and flowering, with stems, root systems and reproduction via pollen. However, there are some major differences between the two types of plant families. Rose plants are in the dicot family.
Monocot
If you were to take a cross section of the stem of the plant and look at it, you would see the vascular bundles. These vascular bundles are like the arteries of the plant, carrying nutrients throughout. In a monocot, the vascular bundles are scattered through the stem. Only 10 percent of monocots are woody. An easy way to recognize a monocot is to look at how it grows. Monocots grow up, rather than out. Examples of monocots include bamboo, orchids, bulb plants, grass and palm trees.
Dicot
A dicot's vascular bundles are in a perfect ring close to the outside of the stem. About half of dicot species are woody. The petals are another way to distinguish a dicot from monocot. A dicot has clusters of four or five flowers, while monocots only have three.
Roses
Roses are dicots, and they belong to the same family as other important dicots -- including plums, raspberries, apples and cherries. This family is called Rosacea. These flowers all have a similar look, usually white with five petals, with the exception of the rose, which has many petals. The rose, like its close relatives, is also a fruiting plant and produces rose hips used in tea. There are more than a hundred species of roses in the world.
Other Dicots
Dicots grow out rather than up, another indication that rose bushes are included in the dicot family. Other dicot examples include grapevines, daisies, cacti and most fruit trees. Most dicots are compatible with one another in the wild, often growing near each other. Herbs like mint are included in the dicot family, as are large trees like the oak and maple trees.
Monocot
If you were to take a cross section of the stem of the plant and look at it, you would see the vascular bundles. These vascular bundles are like the arteries of the plant, carrying nutrients throughout. In a monocot, the vascular bundles are scattered through the stem. Only 10 percent of monocots are woody. An easy way to recognize a monocot is to look at how it grows. Monocots grow up, rather than out. Examples of monocots include bamboo, orchids, bulb plants, grass and palm trees.
Dicot
A dicot's vascular bundles are in a perfect ring close to the outside of the stem. About half of dicot species are woody. The petals are another way to distinguish a dicot from monocot. A dicot has clusters of four or five flowers, while monocots only have three.
Roses
Roses are dicots, and they belong to the same family as other important dicots -- including plums, raspberries, apples and cherries. This family is called Rosacea. These flowers all have a similar look, usually white with five petals, with the exception of the rose, which has many petals. The rose, like its close relatives, is also a fruiting plant and produces rose hips used in tea. There are more than a hundred species of roses in the world.
Other Dicots
Dicots grow out rather than up, another indication that rose bushes are included in the dicot family. Other dicot examples include grapevines, daisies, cacti and most fruit trees. Most dicots are compatible with one another in the wild, often growing near each other. Herbs like mint are included in the dicot family, as are large trees like the oak and maple trees.
0
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Rose plants exhibiting stem discoloration or blackening may have contracted a fungal disease that causes stem cankers. Stem cankers are caused by several different fungi, according to Ohio State University. These fungal spores enter through the wounds made in stems by improper pruning or weather damage. It is important for rose gardeners to recognize the signs of stem cankers and employ proper disease management practices.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
Stem Cankers
Disease-causing fungal spores overwinter in debris left underneath rose plants, according to the University of Georgia. In the spring when temperatures rise, these fungal spores germinate and spread through the wind. Often, rose plants are infected during hot humid weather. Improper pruning practices, rainwater, irrigation water, open wounds and infected pruning tools spread fungal spores to different areas of your plant. Gardeners must employ proper management practices and monitor their plant for symptoms during hot humid weather.
Symptoms
Infected stems display lesions that grow in size and become discolored. Lesions may start off turning yellow or purple, according to the University of Georgia. Over time, lesions sink into the stems, take on a wrinkly appearance and crack. Furthermore, infected areas turn black. You may see the black fruiting bodies of the fungal spores growing from these infected areas. The result is stem girdling, which prevents both water and nutrients from getting past the cankers.
Treatment
Spray your infected rose plant with the same type of fungicide that you would use to treat blackspot disease. Your fungicide may contain active ingredients such as chlorothalonil, maneb and benomyl, according to Mississippi State University. Avoid spraying a rose plant that is suffering from water stress with fungicide to prevent causing damage. Continue to spray during the growing season to treat stem cankers.
Pruning
Remove diseased portions of your rose plant. Dip your bypass shears in a mixture of 70 percent denatured alcohol and 30 percent water. Make 45-degree angled cuts 5 to 6 inches below the stem canker, as suggested by the University of Georgia. Apply a small amount of glue to the wound to keep fungal spores from entering the plant. Clean up all debris underneath your rose plants. Burn or throw away debris, but do not place the diseased portions of the plant in your compost.
0
1
