文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Roses can experience two major types of flies: syrphid flies and rose midges. One of these is actually a beneficial insect and the other means big trouble for rose plants. Flies pass by rose plants because they're a naturally occurring outdoor insect, but if you notice flies hanging around your rose plants repeatedly, you may have a problem.
Cause
Plants that are neglected or are not receiving adequate care tend to experience more pests than those that receive better care, but there is no guarantee that your plant will have a fly-free season. Unfortunately, flies and other garden pests are natural. However, providing your rose with the right care and treating the flies can reduce any problems.
Types
The rose midge is a destructive fly that can greatly harm rose plants. Adult rose midges lay eggs in the flowers; hatched larvae munch on flower buds. The affected flowers can wither and turn black. Larvae pupate in the soil beneath the plant, leading to a new generation of flies near the roses. If you don't break the cycle, your plants will suffer. Syrphid flies also enjoy roses, but these insects are beneficial since they eat aphids, another rose pest. These flies look like wasps, not flies, and feed on rose nectar. If you see these flies, there's nothing to worry about.
Treatment
Control rose midges with insecticides. Look for an insecticide that is approved for use in your area and apply the insecticide per the manufacturer's instructions. If you prefer natural pest control, use beneficial insects to eat the flies. Purchase predatory wasps online or at your local nursery. Placing landscape cloth below your roses means the rose midge larvae will fall onto the cloth to pupate. You can scoop up the cloth and throw it out, reducing your midge population.
Care
Good care cuts down on pests. Prune off dead branches and deadhead spent blossoms to maintain a neat bush. Water roses when the soil feels dry to the touch, until the soil becomes saturated. Watch for signs of diseases or pests so you can take action quickly and reduce potential harm to your rose.
Cause
Plants that are neglected or are not receiving adequate care tend to experience more pests than those that receive better care, but there is no guarantee that your plant will have a fly-free season. Unfortunately, flies and other garden pests are natural. However, providing your rose with the right care and treating the flies can reduce any problems.
Types
The rose midge is a destructive fly that can greatly harm rose plants. Adult rose midges lay eggs in the flowers; hatched larvae munch on flower buds. The affected flowers can wither and turn black. Larvae pupate in the soil beneath the plant, leading to a new generation of flies near the roses. If you don't break the cycle, your plants will suffer. Syrphid flies also enjoy roses, but these insects are beneficial since they eat aphids, another rose pest. These flies look like wasps, not flies, and feed on rose nectar. If you see these flies, there's nothing to worry about.
Treatment
Control rose midges with insecticides. Look for an insecticide that is approved for use in your area and apply the insecticide per the manufacturer's instructions. If you prefer natural pest control, use beneficial insects to eat the flies. Purchase predatory wasps online or at your local nursery. Placing landscape cloth below your roses means the rose midge larvae will fall onto the cloth to pupate. You can scoop up the cloth and throw it out, reducing your midge population.
Care
Good care cuts down on pests. Prune off dead branches and deadhead spent blossoms to maintain a neat bush. Water roses when the soil feels dry to the touch, until the soil becomes saturated. Watch for signs of diseases or pests so you can take action quickly and reduce potential harm to your rose.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月10日
Signs of animal damage to rose plantings cause concern, especially since you devoted your time and effort to growing and maintaining the plants. Critters, including deer and rabbits, chew rose blooms, buds and leaves, and scratch stems, leaving behind a trampled mess. The otherwise shy and docile pests attack the plants at night or early in the morning, when human activity is absent. Adopt a preventive strategy to keep the animals away from your precious roses.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
Step 1
Mix 2 to 3 tbsp. cayenne pepper sauce in 1 gallon of water and pour in a spray bottle. Apply the repellent over and around the rose bushes to deter the critters from damaging the plants. Alternatively, spray a commercially available contact repellent over the plantings to make them unpalatable and prevent the animals from returning to your garden. Reapply the repellent frequently, especially during the rainy season.
Step 2
Spray wolf, coyote or another predator's urine around the roses to frighten the critters and keep them from visiting your rose garden.
Step 3
Trap small pests, such as rabbits, to rid them from your rose garden. Place the traps strategically in your garden along with bait, such as slices of fruit, to lure them in. Once caught, release the rabbit far from your garden. Inspect the trap every few hours and reposition it you fail to catch the animal in a few days.
Step 4
Fence the area to keep the animals from entering your garden. Dig a trench 2 feet deep and 24 to 36 inches wide if rabbits are damaging your roses, or keep the fence 6 feet high and flush with the ground to prevent deer from jumping over. Install stakes every 4 feet along the area to support chicken wire with 1-inch openings.
Step 5
Install motion-activated lights, sprinklers or sounds around your garden that suddenly set off when stepped on. Alternatively, strategically place a scarecrow or effigy of a predator in the flower bed.
Step 6
Puncture a hole through the top of an aluminum strip or pie plate and insert a length of twine through it. Wind the other end of the twine around a low-hanging tree branch or a stake near your rose bush. Hang several strips or plates together to scare animals with their shine or clanking sounds.
Step 7
Cut a bar of sharp soap into 2-inch sections using a sharp knife and place each in a mesh bag. Alternatively, place human hair, garlic or cayenne pepper into the mesh bag and suspend from a branch near the roses to deter the pests with its offensive scent.
Step 8
Grow plants the animal does not like to keep it from frequenting your rose garden. For instance, deer avoid snapdragon, dianthus, yarrow, bee balm and vinca, so grow these around your roses to keep the animals away.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Growing aluminum plants (Pilea cadierei) is easy and will add additional appeal to the home with pointed leaves splashed in a metallic silver. Let’s learn more about taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
About Pilea Houseplants
Pilea houseplants are a member of the family Urticaceae and are found in tropical regions of the world, predominantly in Southeast Asia. Most varieties of Pilea have striking variegated foliage of raised silver on deep green leaves.
Because growing aluminum plants thrive in a tropical climate, they are generally cultivated as houseplants in North America, although there are a couple of USDA zones where the Pilea houseplants may be utilized in an outdoor landscape. These plants are evergreens, which have a small insignificant flower, and grow from 6 to 12 inches in height. They have a spreading habitat, which can be fostered depending on its supporting structure. Generally, Pilea plants are grown in hanging baskets; however, when grown outdoors, they look lovely cascading over a wall or as a ground cover in suitable zones.
Varieties of Pilea
Artillery plant (Pilea serpyllacea) is a popular Pilea variety grown as a houseplant. Some additional varieties of Pilea useful for their low growing habitat and lush green spreading foliage are as follows: P. serpyllacea P. nummulariifolia P. depressa All varieties of Pilea are cold sensitive and are susceptible to mealybugs, spider mites, leaf spots and stem rot.
Taking Care of a Pilea Aluminum Plant
Keep in mind your climatic zone when growing aluminum plants. As mentioned, all varieties are tropical plants and as such are really only tolerant of outdoor conditions in USDA zones 9 through 11. Areas of the deep southern Gulf States and Texas are conducive to growing aluminum plants as outdoor specimens provided they are sheltered to a certain extent. When taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant, it should be situated where the room temperature is 70-75 F. (20-24 C.) during the day and 60-70 F. (16-21 C.) at night. During the summer months, Pilea houseplants should be grown in partial shade and then during winter moved to a well lit area, such as southern exposure window space. Aluminum plant care necessitates keeping the plant away from either hot or cold drafts that arise from heaters or air conditioning units.
Aluminum Plant Care
Aluminum plant care dictates fertilizing every five to six weeks during active growth phases. Apply liquid or soluble fertilizer according to the manufacturer’s instructions when taking care of a pilea aluminum plant. Apply fertilizer only when Pilea houseplants have damp soil; application when soil is dry may damage roots. Taking care of a Pilea aluminum plant indoors requires well-drained potting soil and evenly moistened medium. For the most optimal success growing aluminum plants, check the plant daily and water as necessary when the soil surface appears dry. Take care to remove any excess standing water from the saucer and maintain a medium amount of light exposure. If you want to keep the plant bushy, pinch out the growing tips of Pilea houseplants. Also, take cuttings to replace plants when they become too leggy.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Do Alocasia elephant ears have seeds? They do reproduce through seed but it takes years before you will get the big beautiful leaves. Older plants in good conditions will produce a spathe and spadix that will eventually produce seed pods. Elephant ear flower seeds are only viable a short time, so if you want to plant them, harvest the pods and use them as soon as possible.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
Do Alocasia Elephant Ears Have Seeds?
Alocasia odora is also known as elephant ear plant because of its colossally huge leaves and the general shape of the foliage. They are members of the Aroid family, which encompasses plants with some of the most attractive foliage available to gardeners. The glossy, heavily veined leaves are a standout and the main attraction, but occasionally you get lucky and the plant will bloom, producing unique dangling seed pods on elephant ear plant. Elephant ear flower seeds are contained in a hard shelled pod. It takes months for the orange seeds to mature, during which time the pods hang from the plant. They are a rare sight in most gardens, but in warm climates, established plants may develop a spathe and spadix, which house the male and female flowers. Once pollinated, they develop into fruits filled with many little seeds. The seed pods on elephant ear plant must be cracked open to reveal the numerous seeds.
Planting Elephant Ear Flower Seeds
Once the Alocasia elephant ear has seed pods, remove them once the pod has dried and the seeds are mature. Germination is capricious and variable on these plants. Seeds should be removed from the pods and rinsed. Use a humic rich medium with a generous amount of peat. Sow the seeds on the surface of the soil and then lightly dust them with a pinch of medium. Spray the top of the soil with a misting bottle and keep the medium lightly damp but not soggy. Once seedlings appear, which may be as long as 90 days after planting, move the tray to a location with indirect but bright light.
Propagation of Elephant Ear Alocasia rarely produces a flower and subsequent seed pod. Their erratic germination means that even if your elephant ear has seed pods, you are better off starting plants from offsets. The plants send out side shoots at the base of the plant which work well for vegetative production. Simply cut off the side growth and pot them up to establish and grow larger. Once the plant is a year old, transplant to an appropriate area of the garden and enjoy. They can also be grown in containers or indoors. Don’t forget to bring the bulbs or plants indoors in any region where freezing temperatures are expected, as Alocasia plants are not at all winter hardy. Lift in-ground plants and clean off dirt, then store them in a box or paper bag until spring.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Alocasias are fantastic plants for the garden or home. Native to Southeast Asia and Australia, they are used to warm temperatures year round and must be overwintered in pots or dug up and stored as bulbs in a cool, dry place in all but the warmest climates. Regardless of how you grow them, though, fertilizing alocasia plants is essential to their healthy growth. Keep reading to learn about alocasia plant feeding and when to fertilize alocasia.
Feeding Alocasias
Alocasia plants have the potential to become enormous. If overwintered successfully for multiple years, they can reach 10 feet (3 m.) in height and produce leaves that are 3 feet (0.9 m) long. The key to growing such stunning plants is fertilizer.
Alocasias are very heavy feeders, and fertilizing alocasia plants frequently is the only way to keep up with their appetite. Before planting your alocasias, mix 2 pounds of slow release fertilizer per 100 square feet (9.3 square meters) of soil. Keep up regular fertilization every two to four weeks.
Fertilizer for Alocasia in Pots Is feeding alocasias really necessary if you’re growing them indoors? Chances are you want your houseplant somewhere under ten feet tall. The thing about fertilizer, however, is that it isn’t just for rapid growth. Kept in a pot, your alocasia almost certainly won’t reach its full potential size, but it still needs regular fertilization, perhaps even more so.
Because of the small amount of soil in a container, nutrients can be washed away more easily. With every watering, add a little water soluble fertilizer to keep your alocasia plants growing healthy and strong. If your alocasia’s leaves start to appear burnt, however, it probably means you’re applying too much fertilizer. Flush the container with plenty of clean water until it runs out of the drainage holes and cut back on your fertilizing regimen.
Feeding Alocasias
Alocasia plants have the potential to become enormous. If overwintered successfully for multiple years, they can reach 10 feet (3 m.) in height and produce leaves that are 3 feet (0.9 m) long. The key to growing such stunning plants is fertilizer.
Alocasias are very heavy feeders, and fertilizing alocasia plants frequently is the only way to keep up with their appetite. Before planting your alocasias, mix 2 pounds of slow release fertilizer per 100 square feet (9.3 square meters) of soil. Keep up regular fertilization every two to four weeks.
Fertilizer for Alocasia in Pots Is feeding alocasias really necessary if you’re growing them indoors? Chances are you want your houseplant somewhere under ten feet tall. The thing about fertilizer, however, is that it isn’t just for rapid growth. Kept in a pot, your alocasia almost certainly won’t reach its full potential size, but it still needs regular fertilization, perhaps even more so.
Because of the small amount of soil in a container, nutrients can be washed away more easily. With every watering, add a little water soluble fertilizer to keep your alocasia plants growing healthy and strong. If your alocasia’s leaves start to appear burnt, however, it probably means you’re applying too much fertilizer. Flush the container with plenty of clean water until it runs out of the drainage holes and cut back on your fertilizing regimen.
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Mitriostigma isn’t a gardenia but it sure has many of the famous plant’s attributes. Mitriostigma gardenia plants are also known as African gardenias. What is African gardenia? An ever blooming, fabulously scented, non-hardy houseplant or warm climate patio plant. If you are looking for consistent lovely blooms, evergreen, shiny leaves and fun little orange fruits, try growing African gardenias.
What is African Gardenia?
A very unique and fairly hard plant to find is Mitriostigma axillare. This plant can become a small tree in its habit but is a small bush in container situations. One of the most important things about caring for African gardenias is their intolerance to soggy soil. These plants also prefer indirect light or even partial shade since they grow in forested areas where taller plant species dapple the light.
African gardenia is found in coastal and dune forests from the Eastern Cape to Mozambique. This evergreen shrub has grayish brown bark with green markings, arrow-shaped glossy leaves, and the much praised 5-petaled white scented blooms. The one-inch flowers densely pack the leaf axils and may be present much of the year. In fact, the latter part of the scientific name, axillare, refers to the location of the flowers. Spent flowers turn into a smooth elliptical berry with an orange rind-like skin. The fruit lends another name to the plant, dwarf loquat. Mitriostigma gardenia plants are hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 to 11 but are perfectly suited to the indoors or in a greenhouse.
Growing African Gardenias
African gardenia can be hard to get your hands on. It is not widely available in nursery catalogues, but if you do run into someone with the plant, you can start your own with summer cuttings or ripe fruit seeds. Collect seeds from orange healthy fruits and plant them immediately in a moist flat. Transplant seedlings when they are several inches tall. Fertilize with liquid food at every watering and keep the plants in moderate light. The cuttings should be inserted into a pot with sterile compost, kept moist and in indirect light. Usually, the cutting will root in about 4 weeks and can then be transplanted and grown on using good African gardenia care tips.
Caring for African Gardenias
Mitriostigma does well in good purchased potting soil mixed with some sand. If planted in a container, make sure there are good drainage holes. If planted in the ground outdoors, amend the soil with plenty of compost and choose a location with shelter from noon time sun. Pick its location wisely, as African gardenia produces a large taproot which makes relocating the plant difficult.
African gardenia care should include feeding with liquid plant food at every watering from spring through late summer. Move plants indoors in cool climates by early fall. In the winter when the plant is blooming, feed once per month with a high phosphorus plant food. Be sure to leech to soil often to prevent the buildup of fertilizer salts. Caring for African gardenias is quite easy, as they don’t have any significant pest or disease issues. As long as you keep the soil a bit on the dry side and protect the plant from harsh sun rays, you will have a long lived scented bloomer in your home or landscape.
What is African Gardenia?
A very unique and fairly hard plant to find is Mitriostigma axillare. This plant can become a small tree in its habit but is a small bush in container situations. One of the most important things about caring for African gardenias is their intolerance to soggy soil. These plants also prefer indirect light or even partial shade since they grow in forested areas where taller plant species dapple the light.
African gardenia is found in coastal and dune forests from the Eastern Cape to Mozambique. This evergreen shrub has grayish brown bark with green markings, arrow-shaped glossy leaves, and the much praised 5-petaled white scented blooms. The one-inch flowers densely pack the leaf axils and may be present much of the year. In fact, the latter part of the scientific name, axillare, refers to the location of the flowers. Spent flowers turn into a smooth elliptical berry with an orange rind-like skin. The fruit lends another name to the plant, dwarf loquat. Mitriostigma gardenia plants are hardy in United States Department of Agriculture zones 10 to 11 but are perfectly suited to the indoors or in a greenhouse.
Growing African Gardenias
African gardenia can be hard to get your hands on. It is not widely available in nursery catalogues, but if you do run into someone with the plant, you can start your own with summer cuttings or ripe fruit seeds. Collect seeds from orange healthy fruits and plant them immediately in a moist flat. Transplant seedlings when they are several inches tall. Fertilize with liquid food at every watering and keep the plants in moderate light. The cuttings should be inserted into a pot with sterile compost, kept moist and in indirect light. Usually, the cutting will root in about 4 weeks and can then be transplanted and grown on using good African gardenia care tips.
Caring for African Gardenias
Mitriostigma does well in good purchased potting soil mixed with some sand. If planted in a container, make sure there are good drainage holes. If planted in the ground outdoors, amend the soil with plenty of compost and choose a location with shelter from noon time sun. Pick its location wisely, as African gardenia produces a large taproot which makes relocating the plant difficult.
African gardenia care should include feeding with liquid plant food at every watering from spring through late summer. Move plants indoors in cool climates by early fall. In the winter when the plant is blooming, feed once per month with a high phosphorus plant food. Be sure to leech to soil often to prevent the buildup of fertilizer salts. Caring for African gardenias is quite easy, as they don’t have any significant pest or disease issues. As long as you keep the soil a bit on the dry side and protect the plant from harsh sun rays, you will have a long lived scented bloomer in your home or landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Dodder is parasitic on a wide range of plants and shrubs, but in particular on members of the pea (Fabaceae) and heath (Ericaceae) families. Common dodder forms a mass of purple or reddish thread-like stems that crawl all over the host plant; and both the leaves, which are reduced to small scales, and the tiny flowers are very difficult to spot. The flowers appear in clusters and are white or pale pink.
This curious parasitic plant is found throughout Europe including the Mediterranean region except for Cyprus.
This wildflower grows in the same places as its hosts, and it produces minute pale blooms from April to October.
The dodder family is Cuscutaceae.
The plants shown above were photographed in Crete at the beginning of April. Below is a picture kindly contributed by Sue Rhodes; it shows Dodder scrambling over the gorse on a Cornwall clifftop.
This curious parasitic plant is found throughout Europe including the Mediterranean region except for Cyprus.
This wildflower grows in the same places as its hosts, and it produces minute pale blooms from April to October.
The dodder family is Cuscutaceae.
The plants shown above were photographed in Crete at the beginning of April. Below is a picture kindly contributed by Sue Rhodes; it shows Dodder scrambling over the gorse on a Cornwall clifftop.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Shade-loving hostas (Hosta spp.) produce their signature foliage in various colors, patterns, sizes and textures. These plants do best in the cooler climates of U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Slugs are the usual culprits for holes chewed in hosta leaves, although other pests or factors can also cause this damage. Providing the hostas with good care and following excellent sanitation practices around the hostas will help to prevent or minimize the appearance of holes in the hosta leaves.
Step 1
Space plants well at planting or transplant or divide hostas so that there is good air circulation around the hosta foliage. Crowded hostas that are constantly damp are prone to fungal problems like anthracnose. Anthracnose appears as white to tan leaf spots with a dark border that often lose their center before the entire leaf develops a torn or tattered appearance.
Step 2
Keep debris, like excessive mulch, leaf litter, boards, stones and bricks, away from the hostas and thin out any dense ground cover plants near the hostas. Slugs feed on hostas at night and need a damp environment to hide in during the day. Holes caused by slugs are irregular but have a smooth edge. Cutworms chew long, oval holes between hosta leaf veins.
Step 3
Inspect the hosta plants and surrounding area at night with a flashlight, looking for slugs and cutworms. Pick off any pests you find and drown them in a bucket of soapy water.
Step 4
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth over the ground around the hostas. Reapply this material regularly and after each rainfall to ensure it remains effective. Diatomaceous earth will scratch the outer or protective layer of slugs and other pests, causing the pests to dry out and die.
Step 5
Drape a fabric sheet or similar material over the hostas whenever hail or out-of-season frosts are expected. Prop the cloth up with sticks, stakes or boards, so it is not directly in contact with the hosta. Hail damage to hosta leaves appears as holes with jagged edges and an overall torn or tattered appearance.
Step 1
Space plants well at planting or transplant or divide hostas so that there is good air circulation around the hosta foliage. Crowded hostas that are constantly damp are prone to fungal problems like anthracnose. Anthracnose appears as white to tan leaf spots with a dark border that often lose their center before the entire leaf develops a torn or tattered appearance.
Step 2
Keep debris, like excessive mulch, leaf litter, boards, stones and bricks, away from the hostas and thin out any dense ground cover plants near the hostas. Slugs feed on hostas at night and need a damp environment to hide in during the day. Holes caused by slugs are irregular but have a smooth edge. Cutworms chew long, oval holes between hosta leaf veins.
Step 3
Inspect the hosta plants and surrounding area at night with a flashlight, looking for slugs and cutworms. Pick off any pests you find and drown them in a bucket of soapy water.
Step 4
Sprinkle diatomaceous earth over the ground around the hostas. Reapply this material regularly and after each rainfall to ensure it remains effective. Diatomaceous earth will scratch the outer or protective layer of slugs and other pests, causing the pests to dry out and die.
Step 5
Drape a fabric sheet or similar material over the hostas whenever hail or out-of-season frosts are expected. Prop the cloth up with sticks, stakes or boards, so it is not directly in contact with the hosta. Hail damage to hosta leaves appears as holes with jagged edges and an overall torn or tattered appearance.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
The lush growth of your flower and vegetable gardens attract wildlife to your yard. Your carefully cultivated plants are an exotic delicatessen, free for animals' eating enjoyment. Although you can take precautions to discourage the animals from eating your flowers and vegetables, you may still end up sharing some of your harvest when food is scarce for the wildlife.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
Fence Them Out
A fence discourages marauding critters from decimating a garden patch. Even though a deer can leap over an 8- to 10-foot obstacle, a 6-foot-tall fence often discourages its incursions into a garden. Cyclone welded wire and black propylene deer fencing are effective barriers when used in combination with other animal-discouraging techniques. Solid fencing, such as a board or reed fence, hides a garden from view.
Also add a row of rabbit wire fencing to the bottom of your fence to prevent rabbits from squeezing through its holes. Peg the bottom of the rabbit fence to the ground or bury it several inches of it underground. Fill all low spots with large rocks or boards. Rabbits naturally dig under fences, but deer also can crawl under a fence to reach a garden's gourmet delights.
If gophers are a problem, consider lining planting holes with wire mesh baskets. The mesh prevents gophers from burrowing under flower and vegetable plants and eating the tender roots.
Scare Them Away
Deer, rabbits and other animals that eat plants are nervous creatures, always watching for potential predators. Take advantage of their skittish natures by adding items such as motion-activated sprinklers to your gardens. Also, metallic, shiny ribbons or small wind socks tied to the top of fencing randomly flutter in wind, making deer nervous enough to discourage them from leaping into the garden.
Although predator urine and other smelly solutions discourage deer and rabbits, a yapping dog is also an effective deterrent -- if it doesn't dig holes in the gardens or disturb neighbors. Cats are also efficient predators, catching gophers and other rodents that snack on plants.
Hide the Goodies
Use row covers to protect tender seedlings from both cool weather and wildlife. When the weather warms, trade the row covers for tulle or other lightweight fabrics that hide plants without blocking air circulation to them.
Avoid attracting wildlife to your gardens by removing nearby vegetation, dead grass and brush piles, which provide hiding and nesting places. Enclose and cover your compost pile. Burying scraps in it is not effective; deer dig up a compost pile to reach peelings and other vegetable scraps. Manage the insect population in lawns near your gardens by using beneficial nematodes and Bacillus thuringiensis galleriae. Insect larvae, including beetle grubs, attract moles and skunks.
Plant Items Less Attractive to Them
Select that brighten a garden but are the last choices on deer's, rabbits' or other wildlife's menu. The less tasty or deer-resistant flowering plants that are perennial in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 9, depending on the variety, include:
Common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), perennial in USDA zones 3 through 9.
Daffodil (Narcissus spp.), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Russian oregano (Origanum vulgare subsp. gracile), USDA zones 4 through 8.
Red-hot poker (Kniphofia uvaria), USDA zones 5 through 9.
'Winnifred Gilman' Cleveland sage (Salvia clevelandii 'Winnifred Gilman'), USDA zones 8 through 9.
Vegetable choices less attractive to animals vary with the wildlife's taste buds. Among the vegetables that deer and rabbits generally avoid are corn (Zea mays), garlic (Allium sativum), potato (Solanum tuberosum) and squash (Cucurbita spp.). While most garden vegetables are grown as annuals, garlic is a bulb plant that is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Canine, or dog, urine can cause evergreen trees' and shrubs' low foliage to turn yellow and then dark brown or black. In most situations, dog urine doesn't kill evergreens. If, however, the plants are subjected to dog urine frequently, then eventually the urine can affect their health. Certain measures, though, can prevent or reduce dog urine's damage to evergreens.
Dog Urine's Effects
Dog urine contains urea, which is produced as a waste product when protein is metabolized in the body, and it is excreted along with other salts in the dog's urine. Urea is a nitrogen compound that is used in fertilizers because in soil it is converted to nitrates, which are the primary form of nitrogen used by plants. The urea in dog urine isn't beneficial to plants because its concentration is too high, which creates an environment in which water is drawn out of plant cells.
Prevention
Other than installing a fence, not much can be done to prevent a neighbor's dog from urinating on your plants. If your dog is the source of the urine, then modifying its diet may prevent the urine from damaging your evergreens and other plants. Feed the dog low- to moderate-protein foods instead of those labeled as high in protein; less protein reduces the amount of urea in the urine. Also, high-quality proteins are easier to digest, which means less urea is excreted in the urine. Typically, dog foods labeled as premium and super premium and that are available at pet stores and veterinarian offices have higher quality proteins than most brands available at grocery stores, but consult your dog's veterinarian before making changes in the dog's diet.
If you can't change your dog's food, dilute the dog's urine by adding water to the canine's food, using canned dog food or increasing its daily water intake. Your dog may need to go outside to urinate more often than previously, but its urine will be less likely to burn your evergreens and other plants.
Repair
Urine-damaged evergreens are not a lost cause, although their discolored foliage may not regain its green color. If you see the dog urinating on the plants, immediately rinse the plants with water to dilute the urine, which can prevent damage. If damage has occurred, water the ground around the plants, which leaches the salts from the soil. You may have to repeat watering as the soil dries to leach heavy salt buildups caused by frequent or long-term urination on the plants.
Salt-Tolerant Evergreens
Plants that have a high salt tolerance may be able to withstand dog urine's salts better than other plants. Salt-tolerant evergreen trees include Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), which is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, blue spruce (Picea pungens), which is hardy to USDA zones 2 through 7, and mugo pine (Pinus mugo), hardy in zones 2 through 7. Evergreen shrubs that have a high salt tolerance include serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), which is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 7, Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), hardy in zones 4 through 8, cottoneaster (cotoneaster spp.), hardy in zones 4 through 8, and Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), which is hardy in zones 5 through 8.
Dog Urine's Effects
Dog urine contains urea, which is produced as a waste product when protein is metabolized in the body, and it is excreted along with other salts in the dog's urine. Urea is a nitrogen compound that is used in fertilizers because in soil it is converted to nitrates, which are the primary form of nitrogen used by plants. The urea in dog urine isn't beneficial to plants because its concentration is too high, which creates an environment in which water is drawn out of plant cells.
Prevention
Other than installing a fence, not much can be done to prevent a neighbor's dog from urinating on your plants. If your dog is the source of the urine, then modifying its diet may prevent the urine from damaging your evergreens and other plants. Feed the dog low- to moderate-protein foods instead of those labeled as high in protein; less protein reduces the amount of urea in the urine. Also, high-quality proteins are easier to digest, which means less urea is excreted in the urine. Typically, dog foods labeled as premium and super premium and that are available at pet stores and veterinarian offices have higher quality proteins than most brands available at grocery stores, but consult your dog's veterinarian before making changes in the dog's diet.
If you can't change your dog's food, dilute the dog's urine by adding water to the canine's food, using canned dog food or increasing its daily water intake. Your dog may need to go outside to urinate more often than previously, but its urine will be less likely to burn your evergreens and other plants.
Repair
Urine-damaged evergreens are not a lost cause, although their discolored foliage may not regain its green color. If you see the dog urinating on the plants, immediately rinse the plants with water to dilute the urine, which can prevent damage. If damage has occurred, water the ground around the plants, which leaches the salts from the soil. You may have to repeat watering as the soil dries to leach heavy salt buildups caused by frequent or long-term urination on the plants.
Salt-Tolerant Evergreens
Plants that have a high salt tolerance may be able to withstand dog urine's salts better than other plants. Salt-tolerant evergreen trees include Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis), which is hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) plant hardiness zones 2 through 8, blue spruce (Picea pungens), which is hardy to USDA zones 2 through 7, and mugo pine (Pinus mugo), hardy in zones 2 through 7. Evergreen shrubs that have a high salt tolerance include serviceberry (Amelanchier canadensis), which is hardy in USDA zones 3 through 7, Japanese barberry (Berberis thunbergii), hardy in zones 4 through 8, cottoneaster (cotoneaster spp.), hardy in zones 4 through 8, and Russian sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia), which is hardy in zones 5 through 8.
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文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
Step 1
Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife.
Step 2
Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers.
Step 3
Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh.
Step 4
Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary.
Step 5
Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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成长记
Lucky Coyote
2017年08月09日
Despite recent happenings, my house plants are virtually unaffected and growing well, aside from my cats getting to their leaves 😲
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
Identification
Cistus albidus grows up to 1.5m in height, although most plants are little more than half this height. The hairy pale grey-green leaves are oblong to elliptical and have three prominent veins. The flowers are 4 to 6 cm across and have five purplish-pink petals backed by five sepals.
The leaves of cistus plants are very tough. The flowers, by comparison, seem very fragile and have wafer-thin, crumpled looking petals: they are nontheless beautiful for that, and it is easy to see why cistus is considered such a well-loved addition to northern European gardens.
Habitat
In the UK these shrubs are much-loved garden plants, but it is in the Mediterranean region that they really come into their own: vast tracts of hillsides (particularly in Portugal and Spain) are smothered with various species of these members of the Rockrose family.
Blooming times
Grey-leaved Cistus produces flowers from March to June and can be found in maquis, garrigue, open woodland, on steep slopes and rocky ground. Some of the other cistus species to be found in the Mediterranean include Cistus ladanifer (Gum Cistus), and Cistus salviifoloius (Sage-leaved Cistus).
Cistus albidus grows up to 1.5m in height, although most plants are little more than half this height. The hairy pale grey-green leaves are oblong to elliptical and have three prominent veins. The flowers are 4 to 6 cm across and have five purplish-pink petals backed by five sepals.
The leaves of cistus plants are very tough. The flowers, by comparison, seem very fragile and have wafer-thin, crumpled looking petals: they are nontheless beautiful for that, and it is easy to see why cistus is considered such a well-loved addition to northern European gardens.
Habitat
In the UK these shrubs are much-loved garden plants, but it is in the Mediterranean region that they really come into their own: vast tracts of hillsides (particularly in Portugal and Spain) are smothered with various species of these members of the Rockrose family.
Blooming times
Grey-leaved Cistus produces flowers from March to June and can be found in maquis, garrigue, open woodland, on steep slopes and rocky ground. Some of the other cistus species to be found in the Mediterranean include Cistus ladanifer (Gum Cistus), and Cistus salviifoloius (Sage-leaved Cistus).
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文章
Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月09日
The orchid is in steep decline and is now classified as Critically Endangered in the UK. Although now seemingly confined to only three sites in the UK, it could be that there are other undiscovered plants in suitable areas. Even when in flower these orchids are difficult to spot, but when only leaves are present they are even harder to distinguish from other long-leaved woodland plants.
Description
Red Helleborine grows to between 15 and 60cm in height and has slender often wavy-looking stems. The greyish-green leaves are long and narrow. The inflorescence is lax and can carry up to 17 flowers, although that is unusual with 7 to 10 being more common. The flowers are a delicate shade of pink.
Distribution
The Red Helleborine is now both rare and localised in the UK and probably confined solely to southern England. Fortunately these lovely orchids are not so rare in other parts of Europe, and we have seen them in southern France (in the Lot Valley) and also in considerable numbers on tree-shaded roadside verges in the Triglav National Park in Slovenia.
Habitat
Red Helleborine Cephalanthera rubra usually grows in dark woodland habitats on calcareous soils.
Flowering times
The Red Helleborine flowers from May to July.
Description
Red Helleborine grows to between 15 and 60cm in height and has slender often wavy-looking stems. The greyish-green leaves are long and narrow. The inflorescence is lax and can carry up to 17 flowers, although that is unusual with 7 to 10 being more common. The flowers are a delicate shade of pink.
Distribution
The Red Helleborine is now both rare and localised in the UK and probably confined solely to southern England. Fortunately these lovely orchids are not so rare in other parts of Europe, and we have seen them in southern France (in the Lot Valley) and also in considerable numbers on tree-shaded roadside verges in the Triglav National Park in Slovenia.
Habitat
Red Helleborine Cephalanthera rubra usually grows in dark woodland habitats on calcareous soils.
Flowering times
The Red Helleborine flowers from May to July.
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