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Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Miss Chen
Homegrown fresh tomatoes are, for some, one of the best things to come out of summer. Many gardeners watch their tomato plants all summer, waiting for the day when that first tomato can be picked and eaten. But, at times, that first bite can bring disappointment instead of joy when the tomato has a mushy, soft texture instead of the expected firm, juicy taste. Growing techniques, plants and over-watering can all impact a tomato.
Type of Plant Some varieties of tomatoes are just naturally mushier than others. The New York Times notes that more and more gardeners are leaning toward old-fashioned tomato plants that tend to be softer and bruise much easier. Tomatoes including the Jenny Lind and the Mr. Eliason used to be harder to find because they are not able to be used commercially, but the plants are making a comeback and, if you mistakenly purchase one of these, your tomatoes will be mushy. To combat this, make sure you know the properties of the type of tomato you purchase before you plant it. Growing Environment The tomato plant loves heat and flourishes in warm environments. You should not plant your tomatoes until the soil temperature has reached 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit and your air temperatures are not falling below 60 degrees. If you plant your tomatoes and then have a cold spell, cover the plants with a sheet, newspaper or other protective item. If your tomatoes get too cold, the insides can break down, resulting in a mushy tomato.
Watering Tomatoes, like any plant, need water to grow, but too much water can make the tomatoes mushy, and too little water can cause the tomatoes to rot. A good rule of thumb, according to the How to Garden Guide website, is to water your tomatoes when the top inch of soil is dry. This normally equates to 1 inch of water once a week in the summer. Water your plants in the morning and water the roots, or ground, not the plants. Tomato Storage Once you've grown the perfect tomato, you can still end up with a mushy result due to improper storage. Tomatoes like warmth and should not be kept in the refrigerator, if at all possible. The cold can cause a chemical in the tomato to disappear, which results in a mushy tomato. Tomatoes are best stored on the kitchen counter, in a basket, with the stem facing upward.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Miss Chen
Sun-dried tomatoes come dehydrated, oil-packed and powdered, each with a different shelf life. Expiration and packing dates on the label give you the best indication of the shelf life of unopened sun-dried tomatoes. However, proper storage after you open them can keep the tomatoes fresh for up to 12 months.
What Sun-Drying Entails
Although sun-dried tomatoes evoke images of tomatoes laid out on wood tables drying in sunlight, the artisinal approach isn't efficient for commercial purveyors. Sun-dried tomatoes you find in the store are harvested at their peak ripeness and dried with salt, wood-generated heat or dehydrators. All drying methods reduce the sugar content and concentrate the essence of the tomato into a piquant, tart product. They are either packaged and sold whole and in slices, or ground into a powder that gives soups and sauces an extra kick of tomato flavor without adding volume. Shelf Life: Whole or Sliced Tomatoes in Oil
An unopened jar of whole or sliced tomatoes, preserved in olive oil, lasts 12 months from the time of packaging. Keep tightly lidded, opened jars refrigerated for anywhere from 6 to 12 months from their package date before discarding them. Keep the tomatoes fully covered in oil for maximum shelf life. Throw away any with a foul odor or discoloration. Shelf Life: Dry Whole or Sliced Tomatoes and Powder
Unopened cellophane bags of dried tomatoes last up to 9 months in the refrigerator and jarred and powdered dried tomatoes last up to 24 months in the refrigerator. Freezing unopened packages extends their shelf life by several months. Opened sun-dried tomatoes and powder last up to 6 months in the refrigerator. Never consume sun-dried tomatoes that appear rancid or smell bad. Storage
Proper storage maximizes the shelf life of sun-dried tomatoes. Always store sun-dried tomatoes and powder in the refrigerator. Sun-dried tomato powder normally gets packaged at temperatures below freezing. In air-tight packaging, the product warms to about 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Yet to preserve flavor and freshness, store it below 40 F with less than 65 percent humidity. Never keep opened sun-dried tomato packages near foods with strong odors, such as cheeses or garlic, because these odors can alter the natural flavor of the tomatoes.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes are one of the most commonly grown vegetables at home, in part because they are considered relatively low-maintenance vegetables. Still, their being low maintenance does not make them immune to damage incurred from natural conditions such as extreme temperature changes. A failure to protect your tomato plants from such conditions can result in poor-quality fruit yield come harvest time.
Tomatoes and Temperature Among vegetables, tomatoes are one of the most sensitive to temperature, particularly cold temperatures. Tomatoes are originally native to South America and even though they are grown practically everywhere in the world today, are still sensitive to extreme cold. Cold temperatures convert the natural sugars in the tomato to starch. Additionally, colder temperatures expand the water on the inside of the tomato, changing its texture irrevocably. This is why experts always warn against storing tomatoes in the refrigerator. Avoiding Mealy Tomatoes To avoid mealy tomatoes on the vine, mulch your tomato plants with sphagnum peat moss to mediate extreme shifts in temperature. If you start your tomato plants indoors before transplanting them outside, keep them at temperatures between 60 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit at all times. Flower drop and, later in the season, fruit drop are indications that the tomato plant has suffered damage due to cold temperatures, so if you notice either of these symptoms, you may need to take steps to protect your tomatoes during the winter or plant more winter hardy cultivars. Spotting a Mealy Tomato Most tomato lovers have likely had the experience of buying a tomato from the grocery store only to find it mealy on the inside. To avoid this disappointment, grasp the tomato before you buy it and check its firmness. If the tomato skin has some give and does not feel firm, the chances are good that it will be mealy on the inside and you should buy another one instead. Also consider notifying the grocery store that they have mealy tomatoes on the shelf.
Other Considerations If you frequently experience problems with mealy homegrown tomatoes, don't immediately assume that you cannot grow tomatoes in your climate. The issue with frost-damaged tomato plants is not temperature alone, but the interaction of the temperature outside with the specific cultivar you are using. A good alternative therefore is to inquire nurseries or look at online or mail order plant stores as to the availability of tomato cultivars that are more well-suited to your geographic area's lowest winter temperatures.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月01日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes are 95 percent water, with most varieties soaking up summer rains to become pump and juicy on the vine. Water – along with sunshine and nutrient-rich soil – is needed at every stage of the growing process. Otherwise, tomatoes won't grow, blossom and produce fruit. The manner in which water is delivered, either via rain or via a controlled system, can affect tomatoes in a positive way, or can also have devastating results.
Cracking and Splitting A tomato's fragile skin can easily start splitting and cracking due to inconsistencies in soil moisture. Once a tomato starts to ripen, it forms a protective skin that helps it during harvest, but if rain is heavy during ripening time and the tomato receives too much water, that skin will crack and split. Laying mulch and setting up a regular watering schedule can help prevent splitting and cracking by keeping the soil moisture consistent despite irregular rain. Blossom End Rot A tomato plant can start to rot at its blossoms, causing the blossom end of the fruit to turn brown. If rain has been inconsistent, your tomato plants are not getting enough nutrition, especially calcium, because the soil is dry and not able to deliver the proper nutrients to the plant. To remedy this, be sure to lay mulch on your garden to retain moisture and don't rely only on rain to water your garden. Water your garden daily to keep the soil consistently moist. If splitting or cracking has occurred, remove the bad tomatoes and apply a calcium chloride spray to the new growth.
Insects A strong, heavy rain can help keep your tomato plants free from spider mites, which are barely visible to the human eye, and aphids, which are tiny pear-shaped insects that like to hang out on leaves. The pressure from a heavy rain can keep these insects at bay by washing them away, but if there hasn't been a hard rain in a long time, soapy water or a chemical spray may be needed to control the insects. Fungal Blight Fungal blight can devastate a tomato plant, with the spots first appearing on lower leaves. Fungal blight rarely occurs during dry times, but once the rainy, humid season hits, fungal blight can quickly destroy a tomato plant. To control blight, fungicide sprays should be applied prior to a rain event.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Miss Chen
Pruning is a crucial aspect of grapevine cultivation, affecting overall vine balance. Extensive pruning takes place mid to late winter after grapevines enter winter dormancy to encourage productivity and direct vine canopy and bud growth during the growing season. Bare, exposed canes signal the dormancy of the vine. Removing old wood to make room for new fruiting wood is the primary purpose for heavily pruning grape vines.
Timing and Temperature Because only shoots growing from 1-year-old canes produce fruit, healthy new canes must be produced every year to maintain annual production of fruit. A pruning practice that facilitates the production of fruiting wood involves removing all of the previous year's fruiting canes or spurs (now 2 years old) and any excess 1-year-old canes. From January through early March, grape growers should remove about 90 percent of wood growth from the previous growing season — with the exception of new 1-year-old fruiting canes and renewal spurs (new trunks), according to Oregon State University's Department of Horticulture. Pruning in the fall may increase vine susceptibility to freeze injury during winter. Optimal timing for pruning occurs when winter's coldest temperatures have likely passed and when temperatures consistently maintain levels above freezing. Age Considerations Cut back to two or three buds, a first-year vine should grow several shoots, promoting abundant leaf growth on the vine to permit the formation of a strong root system. The second year, remove flower clusters from the young vine as they form throughout the growing season. Implement typical pruning practices during the vine's third winter and allow fruit to develop during the following growing season. Old, neglected vines should undergo severe pruning in stages to minimize shock to the plant, removing dead and diseased wood first, continuing at intervals to remove old wood while leaving the new, 1-year-old wood growth.
Spring Pruning In regions where risk of injury to the vine from severe winter weather exists, postpone heavy pruning until early spring. According to Cornell University, delay pruning through the winter months as long as feasible to reduce the danger of cold injury. If extremely cold temperatures do not occur in December, January and February, the danger of vine injury from cold is reduced. March may still produce damaging temperatures, but avoiding injury is more likely. Cornell University recommends examining the buds and proceeding on the basis of actual injury when the possibility of cold and freeze damage to grape vines exist, allowing you to compensate for actual injury losses. Fruit Thinning Fruit thinning is a type of pruning that is often necessary during the growing season to control excessive fruit production by permitting no more than one fruit cluster for each rapidly growing shoot. Fruit thinning ensures maximum quality and ripening, and its effectiveness depends on targeting new growth as early as possible throughout the growing season. During summer bloom, remove small or imperfect flower clusters at their first appearance to promote growth of large clusters of large grapes.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Miss Chen
People have grown grapevines (Vitus spp.) for thousands of years, not only enjoying the plants' fruits fresh but also in the form of raisins, juice and wine. Although wildlife may compete with you for the bounty of your vineyard, it's still possible to grow enough of the fruits at home to give you and your family a healthful and tasty treat, though it won't happen overnight. Usually, establishing a successful grapevine planting takes three years, according to the Ohio State University Extension. Because grapevines can live up to 100 years, growing them right is worth the trouble.
Check Your Climate Grapevines are typically perennial, or hardy, in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones ranging 5 through 10, with some varieties needing the warmer temperatures USDA zones 7 through 10. A few types can handle a bit more cold, surviving in USDA zones 4 through 8. Choose Where to Plant A vineyard needs plenty of sunlight, at least seven to eight hours of direct sun exposure per day, to ensure maximum fruit production and flavor. Many kinds of soil work for grapevines, but rock or hard-pan should be at least 3 to 4 feet below the soil. Soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5 is ideal for grapevines. Fertile soil works well, but, according to the University of California's California Garden Web, many of the top wine grapes come from areas where the soil is rocky and lacks fertility. Good drainage is essential for any type of soil in which grapevines grow. Plant Correctly Grapevines should be planted in spring in rows 8 to 12 feet apart. Each vine within a row should be 6 to 9 feet from the next vine. The vines need a framework such as an arbor or trellis to keep them and their fruits off the ground. Ensure each plant has 50 to 100 square feet of arbor space. Support Your Vines The trellis or arbor should be in place before you plant grapevines. A trellis is typically a series of posts set along each row with wires stretched tightly from post to post for the row's the entire length. An arbor is larger and may support vines up its sides and over its top. New grape vines must be trained to climb either support by tying them loosely to the support until they begin to cling to it on their own.
Fertilize Properly Grapes don't require a lot of fertilizer to produce fruits. For the best results: Fertilize your grapevines at bud break, which is when the small leaf buds on each vine begin to swell in preparation for new growth. Feed each grapevine about 1/2 to 1 ounce of nitrogen by using a fertilizer such as 16-16-16 the year you planted the vines. Determine how much fertilizer to use by first figuring out the amount of nitrogen in the product. The first number, or percentage, in a fertilizer's three numbers is the product's amount, or percentage, of nitrogen. The nitrogen amount is 16 percent, or 0.16, in 16-16-16 fertilizer. Divide the amount of nitrogen you want to apply to each grapevine by the amount of nitrogen in the fertilizer to get the total amount of the fertilizer to apply per plant. If you want to apply 1 ounce of nitrogen using 16-16-16 fertilizer, then divide 1 by 16, which results in roughly 6.3 ounces of fertilizerper plant.3. Increase the fertilizer amount to 1 to 1 1/2 ounces of nitrogen per plant the second year. Don't let the fertilizer touch the vines. Instead, spread it in a circle that is 6 to 18 inches from all sides of each plant. Water the fertilizer into the soil after applying. Provide Water and Mulch Whether or not your grapevines need watering depends on the soil and your climate. In many areas, no water beyond rainfall is needed. If the soil dries out, though, irrigate it enough to allow water to seep into the ground to a depth of about 12 inches. Adding mulch onto the soil surface around the base of each grapevine will help keep the plants from drying out. The mulch shouldn't touch the grapevines, however, because it may cause them to rot. The mulch layer should be 4 to 6 inches deep.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Miss Chen
Muscadine grapes have shallow roots that feed upon nutrients within the top 12 inches of the soil. Correct application of nutrients is important. The type and schedule of fertilization depends largely upon the existing conditions of the soil and age of the muscadine grape. Before planting vegetation, perform a soil test, which will inform you of the soil pH and the nutrient status of your site.
First Year Fertilization Provide 1/4 to 1/2 lb. of a complete fertilizer, such as 10-10-10 or 12-12-12, to each muscadine grape vine during April of the first growing season. Apply in a wide band, 1 to 2 feet in diameter, making sure to encompass all of the plant roots. Repeat this process with reapplications in July and in early August. Allow approximately six weeks to elapse between fertilizer applications. Fertilization - Second Year and Beyond Provide the same type of fertilizer to second-year muscadine grape vines, but double the amount to 1/2 to 1 lb. per vine. Provide two applications total in early March and June or July. In future years, continue to fertilize on this time schedule, but increase rates to 2 to 3 lbs. of fertilizer per vine. As the plant matures, increase the broadcast range of fertilization to a 6-foot diameter. Expect muscadine grapes to grow an average of 30 to 36 inches per year. Increase nitrogen if less growth occurs, cut back on nitrogen if more growth takes place. Magnesium Muscadine grapes benefit from periodic applications of micronutrients. In particular, muscadine grapes have a high magnesium requirement. Indications of magnesium deficiency include leaf yellowing and premature fruiting. To prevent or fix this problem in one- or two-year-old vines, evenly distribute 2 to 4 oz. of Epson salt over a 3- to 6-foot radius around each vine. Provide 4 to 6 oz. of Epson salt, in the same manner, to mature muscadine vines. If possible, apply to plants in July.
Boron Boron is considered the second most important micronutrient. A shortage of boron, which is fairly common in soils with a high pH, will cause underdeveloped or deformed grapes. Two tablespoons of borax mixed into fertilizer is enough to treat a 400 square foot area. Apply no more frequently than every two to three years just prior to blooming. Avoid excessive application of boron. Too much of this nutrient is toxic to muscadine grapes.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Miss Chen
Sour, unripe grapes can spoil a dish and you won't want to eat them on their own. Because grapes are used in so many things, from salads and desserts to wines, and juices, it's important to choose quality grapes that will make the item the best it can be. Checking grapes carefully when you buy or harvest them from your backyard grapevines will help you pick the highest-quality fruits. Grapes do not continue to ripen once they're cut from the vine, so pick or buy them at their peak.
Color When grapes are ripe and of good quality, they should be either blue, red or light green. If the grapes are still dark green, they are not yet ripe. The variety you recognize as "green" grapes are categorized as white grapes. These grapes are ripe when they turn a light chartreuse, a subtle yellow-green. If a grape is brown or turning brown, it is either going bad or did not get the required nutrients while it was growing. Look for a uniform color across the grapes on the bunch or the vine. If colors vary, the grapes are getting an uneven amount of nutrients, which will lead to lower quality grapes. Size There is no standard grape size. Size depends on grape variety, including whether it is a seedless type. But size can be a good indicator of grape quality if you know what size is best for the cultivar. Look for a standard size across all the grapes on the vine. If the grapes on the vine are vastly different sizes, the grapes are not getting an even amount of nutrients and will be a lower quality grape. Firmness When grapes are growing, they are firm. Look for grapes that are firm but give and spring back when lightly pressed. Check their quality by giving several grapes a gentle squeeze. If the grapes are soft or have soft spots, they are overripe and going bad. If grapes are still on the vine and getting soft, then they were not picked soon enough or they did not receive the proper amount of nutrients.
Taste To some extent, the color, taste and firmness can all indicate a grape is good. The only thing left to do is taste it. Even if grapes give all indications that they are good, the taste may prove otherwise. Sometimes, grapes grow properly but do not come become sweet. When this happens, try letting the grapes ripen longer, but if they don't get sweeter, they may not have gotten the right nutrients. When tasting, try a single grape from the bunch.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月30日
Miss Chen
Wine grapes come in over 5,000 varieties each ranging in different colors, flavors and sweetness. Unlike other fruits, grapes stop ripening once they are plucked from the vine. Once you have plucked a bunch of sour grapes, you are stuck with them. Eating sour grapes can set your "teeth on edge" and may even make your tummy upset. For most people, eating a sour treat is not enjoyable. Sweeten up your sour grapes to make them more palatable.
Step 1 Pluck the grapes from one bunch from their stems, which should yield between 20 to 40 grapes. Place them on a tray and freeze them for at least three hours. You can use any color grapes for this recipe. Step 2 Whisk the egg whites of two eggs with 1/8 teaspoon of lemon juice in a glass bowl. This mixture makes a sort of glue that holds the sugar in place. If you have an egg allergy, you can use an egg substitute.
Step 3 Pour 2 cups of white granulated sugar in another bowl. Working in batches of five or 10, drop the grapes in the egg mixture, blot them dry to remove the excess egg, then roll them in the sugar. Step 4 Arrange the sugared grapes on decorative trays and serve them immediately.
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Miss Chen
2017年10月28日
Miss Chen
Flavorful and low-maintenance everbearing strawberries (Fragaria x ananassa) offer two main crops of strawberries -- in the late spring and early fall -- with some berry production throughout the summer. Grown in U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 3 through 10, strawberries are hardy perennials that produce fruit when planted in full sun.
Strawberries come in three types: everbearing, day-neutral and June-bearing. While everbearing strawberries produce fruit from spring to fall, June-bearers produce fruits once a year in the summer. Day-neutral strawberries are similar to everbearing strawberries in that they produce fruit all summer; however, while everbearers produce more fruit at the beginning and the end of the season with a few fruits in the middle, day-neutral strawberries produce more consistently throughout the summer. Planting Everbearing Strawberries Select an area that receives full sun -- six to eight hours of sunlight a day -- for strawberries. As soon as the soil can be worked in the spring, till the garden space or use a spade to work up the soil and remove all grass and weeds. Add 1 pound of 10-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of soil and work into the soil at least 6 inches deep. Strawberries like loamy soil with pH of 5.8 to 6.5. To make soil more alkaline, add 3 pounds of lime per 100 square feet of soil per point increase. To reduce soil pH, add 1 1/2 pounds of elemental sulfur per 100 square feet of soil per point decrease. Place strawberries 15 inches apart in three row sections. Leave a 2-foot walkway between each three row section. Make rows long enough to accommodate the desired number of plants with this spacing.
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball of the strawberry plant and deep enough that the middle of the crown is level with the soil surface. Refill the hole with soil and water deeply. Mulch around plants to prevent weeds. Maintaining Plants Water strawberries with 1 inch of water per week through spring, summer and fall. During times of excessive rain, do not water until the surface of the soil is dry. Fertilize everbearing strawberries once a year with 1 pound of 10-10-10 per 100 square feet beginning after the first harvest in the second season and each following year. Rather than working the fertilizer into the soil, water thoroughly after fertilizing to get the fertilizer to the roots. Primary harvests will be in late spring and early fall, but continue to look for ripe fruits on everbearing varieties throughout summer. Everbearing strawberries do not produce many runners -- stems protruding from the crown of the plant that produce a baby plant -- but they will produce some during the summer. Pinch off all runners at the point where they emerge from the plant. Pinching runners allows the plant to put all its energy toward fruit production rather than producing new plants. In areas that experience freezing temperatures over the winter, cover strawberries with straw mulch after the first hard freeze. Keep the plants covered throughout winter. When temperatures begin to warm in the spring, start checking for new growth on strawberry plants. Remove mulch when new leaves start to appear from the center of the crown of the plant.
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