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Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Miss Chen
Vine plants add depth to any garden, climbing over fences, trellises and walls. Like many vining plants, ornamental grape vines will not necessarily assume an attractive shape and climb exactly where you want them to -- even when you've got all the necessary supports in place. If you want your garden to look neat and well-tended, properly prune all ornamental grape vines to keep them under control.
Step 1 Prune ornamental grape vines while the plant is dormant, from late November to March. Late winter, January or February, is the best time for pruning. Step 2 Identify the best-looking, sturdiest cane on the vine. All other canes should be pruned away with sharp hand shears, cut down to the base. Step 3 Cut the top of the cane only if it is growing above the top of its support wire or structure.
Step 4 Tie the top of the cane to its support using standard twine. Step 5 Cut away all the shoots on the cane except for three or four which are spaced widely apart. Step 6 Remove all flower and fruit clusters from the vine in its second year of growth to make the vine stronger. Many ornamental grapes don't produce fruit, but if you are growing fruiting types as ornamentals this advice applies. Step 7 Leave two to three canes on the vine during third-year pruning, cutting the remaining canes down so that only two to four buds remain on each. Step 8 Locate fruit-bearing canes after the ornamental grape vine is 4 years old, pruning away all other canes and growth. Trim the remaining canes until they have six to 10 buds.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Miss Chen
Grapes (Vitis spp.) are sensitive to cold, with most varieties being winter hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 6 through 9. But some grape varieties can stand up to a Michigan winter, at least in the southern part of the state. The key to successfully growing grapes in Michigan is to look for cultivars whose tolerance for cold matches the winter conditions in your part of the state.
Regional Differences Of all the areas of the state, the part of Michigan that's best for growing grapes is the area along the Lake Michigan shoreline. The prevailing winds blowing across the lake moderate temperatures, keeping the area warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, and grapes appreciate the relief from both the winter cold and the summer heat. Other lakeshore areas may also have climates that will support grape growing. In inland parts of the southern lower peninsula, growing grapes is more of a challenge, and it's probably not possible in the northern lower peninsula or the upper peninsula. If you intend to grow grapes inland or in areas as far north as Muskegon or Saginaw Bay, look for grape varieties that are labeled as hardy.
Table Grapes Among white seedless table grape varieties, "Marquis" (Vitis "Marquis," USDA zones 5 through 9) is a good choice for a home garden. "Kay Gray" (Vitis "Kay Gray," USDA zones 4 through 8) and "Edelweiss" (Vitis "Edelweiss," USDA zones 4 through 8) are white, seeded varieties that are exceptionally hardy and may withstand harsher inland winters. "Buffalo" (Vitis "Buffalo") is a blue, seeded table grape variety that does well in traditional fruit-growing areas, and "Steuben" (Vitis "Steuben") is a blue that will grow throughout the southern lower peninsula. Both of these grapes are hardy in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Swenson Red" (Vitis "Swenson Red," USDA zones 4 through 8) is a hardy red, seeded variety that will also grow well in the southern half of the lower peninsula. Hybrid Wine Grapes The wine grape varieties most commonly grown in Michigan are hybrids of French varieties and various native American species. The development of some of these cultivars has focused on cold hardiness, and that makes them good choices for growing in Michigan. White wine varieties that do well in the state include "Cayuga White" (Vitis "Cayuga White"), "Chardonel" (Vitis "Chardonel"), "Seyval Blanc" (Vitis "Seyval Blanc"), "Traminette" (Vitis "Traminette") and "Vignoles" (Vitis "Vignoles"), all of which grow in USDA zones 5 through 9. "Vidal Blanc" (Vitis "Vidal Blanc") is somewhat less hardy and is suitable for USDA zones 5b through 9. Red hybrid wine varieties that are suitable for Michigan are less numerous -- "Baco Noir" (Vitis "Baco Noir," USDA zones 6a through 9) is the most commonly grown. American Grape Varieties The labrusca grape species (Vitis labrusca) is native to eastern North America, and it is known for its musky aroma. Two labrusca varieties, the blue "Concord" (Vitis labrusca "Concord," USDA zones 5 through 9) and the white "Niagara" (Vitis labrusca "Niagara," USDA zones 5 through 9), can also be grown in Michigan, but their strong flavors limit their appeal as wine grapes.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Miss Chen
Concord grapes must have their inedible seeds removed before making juice, jam or eating. The distinctive flavor of Concord grapes sets these apart from seedless varieties of grapes, and the time it takes to remove the seeds will be worth the effort. Concord grapes are easily squeezed from their skins, known as slip-skin, says the Concord Grape Association. This differentiates these grapes from other dark purple grapes.
Step 1 Wash the grapes under running water to remove dirt and residue. Step 2 Hold a grape between your thumb and forefinger. Squeeze gently so the grape slips out of its skin. Discard the skin and set aside the grape. Repeat with the remaining grapes. Step 3 Remove the seeds from the grapes for eating the whole fruit. Cut the grapes in half and dig out the seed from each grape for using in recipes.
Step 4 Puree the grapes and remove the seeds for juicing or use in jelly. Set a sieve over a bowl to catch the seeded puree. Force the skinned grapes through a sieve to separate the seeds and use the puree in your recipes. Discard the grape seeds.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月07日
Miss Chen
When eating berries found in the wild, it's important to identify them. The fruit of some plants may be edible, but the leaves and stems poisonous. Grapes are easy to spot, and no part of the plant is poisonous to humans.
Types Grape vines and other parts of the grape vine such as leaves and roots are not poisonous to humans. Some poisonous plants, such as Canada moonseed, look similar to grape vines. All parts of that plant are poisonous and ingesting the plant can lead to seizures and convulsions. Significance Grapes, raisins, grape vines and all parts of the grape vine including its leaves, are thought to be poisonous to dogs. While some dogs have no adverse reactions after eating grapes or grape vine, others become extremely ill, so caution should be exercised. Grape vines can be used for decoration in birdcages, as they are not toxic to birds.
Fun Fact Grape vines can be used in survival situations as a source of water. Cut the vine as close to the ground as possible and cut a long slit down the entire length of the vine so water begins flowing out the vine's bottom.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Miss Chen
The seeds contained in a fresh tomato look just the same as the seeds in a seed packet bought from a garden supply store. Under the right circumstances, these seeds can grow into tomato plants for next year's garden. So this summer, before you eat the last fresh tomato from the vine, think about using it to start plants for your garden.
Hormone Inhibitors The seeds from tomatoes are ready to germinate almost before the tomatoes are ripe. This happens because tomatoes are tropical plants; in areas where there is no winter weather, they would continue to grow and bear fruit. Since in its native habitat no extreme temperature would kill the young seedling, the seeds do not need a time of dormancy. The only inhibitor is the presence of a hormone in the gel surrounding the seed. Remove this, and the seed will usually sprout under conditions containing warmth and moisture. Moisture Tomato seeds need moisture to germinate. Keep them wrapped in a damp paper towel under a plastic covering to hold in the moisture. Watch the seeds for about a week, and you should see root sprouts emerge. For garden seedlings, plant the tomato seeds in a light-weight, seed-starting mix. Warmth Provide fresh tomato seeds with the same temperature they would have in their native environment. This is easy in the home where the normal temperature fluctuates between 69 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep seedlings indoors until the outside temperatures are in the 70s and the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees Fahrenheit.
Light Provide bright light for the new seedlings since they need to start the process of photosynthesis quickly after germination. Once the little green leaves emerge, they need bright light as would be found in the tropics. Northern gardeners might have to supplement the light from a sunny window with grow lights, since the angle of the sun in early spring causes a less intense light. Soil Provide the sprouted seedlings from the fresh tomato with clean soil made from equal parts of dampened peat moss, perlite and potting soil. The inside of a tomato provides a sterile environment for the seed, and you don't want to start problems by using a soil that might be contaminated with fungi spores. Once the tomato plant matures, it can tolerate the fungi and microbial activity of the typical garden.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Miss Chen
A wide range of fruits exist in today's world with a diverse range of shapes, sizes, colors and flavors. One of the most commonly confused fruits among people is the humble tomato. Yes, it is indeed, technically speaking, a fruit. It may fascinate you to know that there are many other fruits that look like a tomato.
Persimmon The most widely cultivated species of persimmon is the Japanese persimmon, also known as "kaki." It is generally a light yellow-orange to dark red-orange in color and looks very much like a tomato in many cases. Persimmons have a soft texture and a sweet, slightly tangy taste, and their size can very from a few oz. to more than 1 lbs. Sharon Fruit Sharon fruit is a relative of the persimmon. The name originates from Israel's Sharon Valley, where the fruit was originally cultivated. Today they also are grown in South Africa. Sharon fruit is a tomato-like fruit that is orange in color and has a tough skin. It is a sweet, seedless fruit that has no core. Sharon fruit are just like persimmons, but with the astringency removed. They can be eaten as is, without peeling the skin. Tamarillo In most parts of the world the tamarillo is known as the "tree tomato." In New Zealand however, it is known as a tamarillo, due to a decision by the New Zealand Tree Tomato Promotions Council to change the name in an attempt to add to its exotic appeal and distinguish it from other garden tomatoes. The tamarillo comes in various colors such as deep purple, dark red, orange and yellow. It is low in calories and a good source of vitamin C.
Physalis Physalis, or cape gooseberry, is a fruit commonly grown in South Africa and Columbia. It is orange in color and similar in structure to a cherry tomato. It has many health benefits such as being a source of vitamin C, iron, calcium, and contains small amounts of vitamin B. Pepino Dulce A pepino dulce is a tomato-like fruit with a sweet taste and a texture similar to a tomato. It originates from Columbia, Peru and Chile, but is also commercially cultivated in New Zealand and Western Australia. Pepino dulce comes in many colors such as yellow, green, cream, purple, or green or cream with purple stripes; it is a relative of the tomato.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Miss Chen
A favorite garden plant across the country, tomatoes (Solanum lycoperisum) make desirable food to more than you and your family. It's understandable because of the delicious fruit they bear, but the leaves and stems have a distinct odor and clammy feel that some people find unpleasant to smell or touch. However, many animals consume the foliage. You can tell which creature might be visiting your tomatoes by the signs animals leave, such as chew marks, droppings and footprints.
Small Rodents
Since they're nocturnal, small rodents such as mice and voles, or meadow mice, are seldom caught in the act of eating your tomatoes. Look for characteristic chew marks rodents make on fruit with the pair of large upper front teeth called incisors. Mice leave small, oblong droppings. Voles create runways in grasses that give them away. Pocket gophers eat tomato roots, causing plants to wilt and die; they construct underground burrow systems marked by mounded entrance holes. Combating Small Rodents
You can lessen the damage to your tomato patch by mice and voles by keeping the surrounding area less attractive for them to live in. Remove brush piles, heavy vegetation, thick grasses and weeds. Since mice can climb, a simple fence won't keep them out. Protect plants by enclosing them in a wire mesh cage. Extend the cage 6 inches below ground. Where gophers are a problem, bury galvanized 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth 2 feet deep underground on all sides of the garden bed. Extend the wire 12 inches above ground. Chipmunks and Squirrels
These rodents are active during the day, so you can visually identify the tomato-eaters. They usually eat fruit rather than leaves. Chipmunks have chestnut coats with black and white stripes along their backs and an eyestripe. Tree squirrels descend from their tree homes to eat many kinds of vegetables, including tomatoes. Ground squirrels inhabit burrows in the ground, in rocky places or under walls, depending on the kind of squirrel. Some, such as rock squirrels, can be larger than a tree squirrel. Chipmunk and Squirrel Damage Control
Squirrels are among the wiliest unwelcome guests in gardens, able to overcome and climb around, under and over all sorts of barriers and preventative measures. Keep squirrels and chipmunks from tomatoes by enclosing each plant with a hardware cloth cage that extends 6 inches below ground and has an attached wire lid. Larger Rodents
Larger rodents such as rats and woodchucks also make inroads into tomatoes. Rats leave larger versions of mouse droppings and larger incisor chew marks. They also work at night and are hard to catch in the act. Roof rats live in warmer areas of the country and often invade attics and sheds. Reduce their numbers by removing brush piles and excluding them from buildings. Keep woodchucks out by fencing tomatoes with a chicken wire fence 3 feet tall with an additional 6 inches buried in the ground. Keep fence posts to 2 feet tall so the top part of the chicken wire won't support the woodchuck's weight if it tries to climb over the fence. Excluding Rabbits
Rabbits are nocturnal, so look for their rounded droppings and incisor chew marks. Rabbits will eat fruit and plants. Rabbits can leap with their large hind legs, but they can't jump very high. Exclude rabbits from tomatoes with a fence of 1/2-inch poultry netting around the plants. Use a 4-foot-high netting and bury the bottom 6 to 10 inches beneath the soil to prevent rabbits from digging under it. Larger Animals
Raccoons and deer may also invade your tomatoes. Raccoons are smart, powerful, animals, and they can work around, over or under most traditional fencing or barriers. They eat fruit rather than stems or leaves. Look for their distinctive tracks, with almost hand-like front paw prints. Electric fencing is a good option to keep raccoons away from tomatoes. Use a single strand of electrified wire about 8 inches above the ground and 8 inches out from the base of an ordinary wire fence. Deer eat tomato fruits and plants, leaving behind usually oblong, pellet-like droppings and deer tracks. For deer, exclusion is more difficult; they can jump 6-feet-tall fences. Protect individual plants or garden areas with poultry wire or woven wire fencing. In areas where the deer population is high, consider a deer fence around your entire garden.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Miss Chen
Many inexperienced gardeners who are attempting to grow their own tomatoes for the first time provide too much water for the tomato plants. Signs of excessive water include wilting leaves, which novice gardeners often misinterpret as an indication that the plants require more water rather than less. Correcting your approach to watering and providing overly hydrated tomato plants with consistent, careful treatment thereafter might yet produce a good crop of tomatoes.
Step 1 Confirm that your tomato plants' symptoms are related to excessive watering. Signs of overwatering include standing water and soil that is very wet and muddy when touched. The presence of wilting leaves and very wet soil indicates the plants have been overwatered. Step 2 Prune the plants—by pinching or with scissors—to increase airflow, which may in turn prevent mold or mildew. Remove only young leaves and shoots. Eliminate only shoots and suckers that are 1 inch long or shorter at the base. Do not cut or nick fully grown branches or the main stems. Step 3 Stop watering your tomato plants until the soil has dried out to an appropriate level of moisture. The soil should be damp when touched, but it should not be soaking wet.
Step 4 Apply a layer of mulch 4 to 6 inches thick around the plants, leaving a 2-inch radius around the base of each plant free of mulch. Use either leaf mold, newspaper or straw for the best results. Water the plants after applying the mulch. Step 5 Create and maintain a regular watering schedule. Tomato plants benefit from regular moderate irrigation—a little bit of water every day rather than gross fluctuations in watering routine. Water the plants early in the morning rather than later in the day for the best results.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月06日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) are frost-tender plants, and they're usually grown as an annual crop. Sowing tomato seeds indoors before frosts are over in spring prolongs the growing season, but the warm temperatures and low light levels indoors cause tall, thin, weak tomato seedlings. Starting tomatoes outdoors in shady areas also causes seedlings with those conditions. These leggy seedlings grow into thin-stemmed plants that break under the weight of a heavy crop, but you can fix leggy tomato seedlings when you transplant them into your garden.
Burying Seedling Stems Burying tomato seedling stems when transplanting the seedlings into the garden helps cure legginess. Tomato stems can develop roots. Young roots appear as small, white bumps at the stem bases, but roots also can develop higher on the stems when they're buried in moist soil. Burying tomato stems when transplanting leggy seedlings leads to large, healthy root systems and does no harm. Tomato seedlings must be transplanted into an area where they receive at least eight hours of direct sunlight every day, or else they will grow leggy. Wait until after your location's final average annual frost date before transplanting tomatoes outdoors. Digging Trenches Burying leggy tomato seedlings in long, shallow trenches provides the best results. Tomato roots grow best in warm, moist soil that contains plenty of oxygen. Burying the seedlings vertically places their root balls deep in cold soil with low levels of oxygen, but placing the seedlings horizontally in shallow trenches keeps the roots near the warm, airy soil at the ground's surface.
Dig a trench 2 to 3 inches deep and as long as a tomato seedling's root ball and stem are to the top two or three sets of leaves. Pinch off the leaves below the top two or three sets, and place the tomato seedling in the trench. Angle the stem area that will remain above ground away from the soil surface. Cover the rest of the stem with soil that you removed while making the trench. Caring for Transplanted Seedlings Leggy tomato seedlings need moist soil to develop new roots and grow strongly. Water transplanted seedlings immediately so that their soil is moist to a depth of 8 to 10 inches, and water them again each time the soil surface is dry. Don't water the seedlings so much that the ground becomes soggy. The above-ground portions of transplanted seedlings' stems straighten and grow vertically over time. You can encourage them to grow straight by pushing a stake, or cane, into the soil next to each plant and loosely tying the stems to the canes with twine. Avoiding Leggy Seedlings Sowing tomato seeds at the right time, in good light and at cool temperatures prevents leggy seedlings. Short, stocky, thick-stemmed tomato seedlings become the best mature plants. Sow tomato seeds five to six weeks before the final average annual frost date, and place them in a cool, bright indoor area, such as a south-facing window. Provide them with temperatures warmer than 32 degrees Fahrenheit at night and 60 F during the day but not warmer than 65 F. When the seedlings appear above the soil, turn their pots or seedling trays every day to help prevent the seedlings from leaning toward light. Pots and seedling trays for tomato plants must have bottom drainage holes.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月05日
Miss Chen
Blueberries, namely the Northern highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum), is the bush most commonly cultivated throughout the United States. It is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture zones 4 through 8, and when mature, produces small, round, dark blue berries that, with proper care and harvest, can be very sweet. The sweetness of blueberries depends primarily on harvesting at the right time and proper bush care. You can sometimes ripen blueberries after they are harvested, but most of the sugar production occurs prior to picking.
Knowing When to Harvest Blueberries are the sweetest if they are left to ripen fully on the bush. Once berries have turned fully blue -- with no white, green or red parts or stems -- they are ready to harvest three to seven days later. Properly ripe blueberries will also be slightly dull-looking and not shiny. Fully ripe berries should fall off of the bush easily. Tickle the bunches of fruit to remove fully ripe berries while leaving the others to ripen longer. Ripening After Harvest Harvested white, red or green berries will not continue to ripen. In some cases, you can ripen berries that have already turned blue by placing them in a closed paper bag in a dark location. A paper bag traps the gas the berries produces but still allows air flow. Although this method will cause berries to become softer and juicier, the berries will not turn any sweeter. Do not wash berries until immediately before eating or freezing. Watching Water Too much water can cause blueberries to become bloated with a mild rather than intense sweet flavor. In many cases, blueberries are often sweeter during years that receive less rainfall as the sugars in the fruits are more concentrated. Because of this, avoid over-irrigation. Water blueberry plants during the day, keeping the soil evenly moist but not saturated. During the growing season, water 1 inch per week and 4 inches per week when the fruit is setting and ripening. Water the plant evenly on all sides. Water deeply once every couple of days rather than a shallow watering daily. Deep watering encourages a stronger root structure, ensuring a healthier plant.
Selecting Sites for Sun and Soil For berries to ripen well and fully, they require regular sun exposure as well as proper nutrition for the plant. Blueberries grow best in direct sunlight. Not enough sun can cause berries to be perpetually tart rather than sweet as sunlight is needed for sugar production in the fruit. Blueberries thrive in well-draining soil and they do well in acidic soil, with a pH level of 4.5 to 5. If a soil test shows the soil is not sufficiently acidic, amend it with sulfur or peat moss to encourage a lower soil pH.
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