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Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes are the most popular vegetable grown in home gardens, according to the University of Tennessee. This claim is certainly open to debate, but the importance of tomatoes as a home crop is hard to dismiss. If you plan to add tomatoes to your Tennessee garden this year, planting at the right time is essential.
Size If you grow tomatoes from seed, you can plant them in containers indoors in late winter, but many gardeners choose to buy seedlings from a nursery instead. In either case, tomato plants are usually ready to be transplanted to the garden when they are 6 to 8 inches tall. Time Frame The date on the calendar is not as important as the weather conditions. Tomatoes are highly sensitive to frost, so be sure to wait until the last freeze of the season is behind you before you plant them outdoors. Late April is usually safe to plant tomatoes in Tennessee, but you can wait well into June.
Considerations For best results, do not plant tomatoes in the same section of your garden two years in a row. Rotating crops so that they are planted in the same location only once every three or four years will help prevent disease and nutrient depletion.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Miss Chen
Warm-season crops such as tomatoes (Lycopersicon esculentum) can be a bit finicky when it comes to temperature. While tomatoes are short-lived perennials in tropical climates, they are grown as annual plants throughout the U.S. The late spring snows and early autumn frosts often experienced in Missouri can leave many gardeners gambling on the best dates to start seeds and set out transplants. While there are no guarantees when it comes to weather, following a few standard guidelines can take a bit of the guesswork out of tomato gardening.
Check Up on Climate Data A long history of record-keeping has provided farmers and gardeners alike with data on average frost dates and precipitation. The Missouri Climate Center at the University of Missouri-Columbia divides the state up based on latitudinal variation and elevation. On average, the last frost of spring for northern Missouri is April 20 and for central locations is April 10. Areas with higher elevations, such as the Ozark Plateau, tend to be cooler even though they are in the south, so tax day, April 15, is a good guideline. With these regional variations aside, most of Missouri has an average of 180 frost-free days in which to grow tomatoes. Choosing the right varieties, as well as a little pre-planning, will reap the biggest rewards. Sow Seeds Indoors Tomatoes are very sensitive to cold and will show damage at any temperatures below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Since most varieties of tomatoes will produce fruit until the first frost, the sooner you can move plants into the garden, the more tomatoes you'll harvest. For gardeners who like to sow their own seeds, start inside mid-March in a sunny window. Soil needs to be warm, at least 62 degrees F, and seeds will sprout within two weeks. Seedlings will be transplant-ready by the last week in April, but still a bit tender. Rather than put them out directly, try acclimating them over a period of a few days by putting them outside for a few hours and bringing them back in. Transplanting Seedlings in the Garden If you'd rather purchase seedlings from a garden center than wait for seeds, don't be tricked by size. The ideal height for a tomato seedling to transplant is around 8 inches, with a sturdy stem. Many places will sell much larger plants -- often at a higher cost -- but tomatoes of this size do not tend to transplant well and any extra growth will be lost as it adjusts to its new environment.
Seedlings bought from a garden center may not have been acclimated to Missouri's climate if they are fresh off a truck from a greenhouse, so consider putting them out for a few hours each day for several days before planting them in the ground the first week of May. Choose the Right Variety As America's most popular garden crop, tomatoes come in a wide variety of sizes, colors and cultivars. Heirloom varieties, those that have been cultivated for more than 50 years, have an old-fashioned taste, but typically take longer to mature -- often needing more than 80 days to flower, fruit and ripen. Newer, hybrid varieties have been developed over the years to be both more resistant to diseases that cause blight and wilt as well as faster to ripen. The University of Missouri Extension recommends mid-sized hybrid cultivars such as "Celebrity" and "Better Boy," which can ripen within 75 days, and the smaller "Early Girl" variety, which ripens in less than 60 days. Cherry tomatoes and smaller varieties, such as "Supersweet 100s" take around 65 days.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Miss Chen
Cherry tomatoes are among the sweetest tasting, and canning them allows a family to enjoy the summer crop for many more months. The bite-sized morsels are perfect for many recipes calling for tomatoes. Having the right equipment and following some simple rules makes the canning much easier, and safer. Keeping a clean work area and tools cannot be overemphasized when canning the garden's harvest.
Step 1 Check the jars, seals and lids for any damage, such as dents, uneven rims or nicks that would cause the seal to fail. Step 2 Wash jars and lids with hot, soapy water and rinse completely. Set the bands aside. Place jars, lids and wiping cloth in a pan filled with 180-degree-Fahrenheit water and keep there until needed. Step 3 Fill the canner half-full of water and bring to 180 degrees Fahrenheit. Place the rack in the canner and keep the lid on. Step 4 Choose cherry tomatoes that are free of blemishes or damage. Wash and drain them. Step 5 Blanch the tomatoes in boiling water for 30 to 60 seconds. Remove them from the boiling water and immediately dip into ice water.
Step 6 Skin the tomatoes by pinching them and remove any unripe parts. Leave the tomatoes whole or crush them for sauce. Place into a saucepan and add water to cover. Gently boil for 5 minutes and remove from heat. Step 7 Remove the canning jars while the tomatoes are cooking. Set on a towel and add 2 tbsp. lemon juice to a quart jar. Add only 1 tbsp. to a pint jar. Step 8 Ladle the tomatoes into the hot jars, leaving ½ inch room at the top. Push down on the tomatoes to expel any air. Liquid must be poured over the tomatoes to fill the spaces, again leaving ½ inch space at the top. You can use either plain water or tomato juice, or the water from the pot that the tomatoes were boiling in. Add 1 tsp. of salt to a quart jar or a 1/2 tsp. to a pint jar. Step 9 Press down and on the sides of the tomatoes to release any additional air bubbles trapped in the jar. Step 10 Pull the wiping cloth from the heated pot and clean the jar rims and threads. Place a lid on each jar and screw on the band to medium tight. Step 11 Place the jars into the canner rack and lower it into the 180-degree water. The water should be 1 to 2 inches higher than the lids. Place lid back on the canner and heat the water to a boil. Let boil for 40 to 45 minutes for pints and quarts, respectively. Step 12 Turn off the heat and let the canner cool. Remove the jars and set on the counter on top of a dry towel. Allow them to cool for 24 hours. Step 13 Check the lids after cooling by pressing down on the center. It should stay down. Wipe the jars clean a final time and store in a cool, dark place
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Miss Chen
2017年11月13日
Miss Chen
Epsom salt is made of magnesium and sulfur. Magnesium promotes seed germination and chlorophyll production, and it also facilitates the plants' absorption of phosphorous and nitrogen. Besides, Epsom salt offers an advantage over synthetic fertilizers: Despite its name, it's not a salt, and it doesn't leave residue behind in the soil that creates a salt buildup or harm plants. Feed your tomatoes Epsom salt once every two weeks for a plant larger and more fruitful than last season.
Step 1 Measure your tomato plant to calculate how many tablespoons of Epsom salt you'll need. Use 1 tbsp. for every foot of plant. A 6-inch-tall tomato plant, for example, takes ½ tbsp. of Epsom salt. Step 2 Sprinkle the correct amount of Epsom salt around the base of your tomato plant.
Step 3 Mix the Epsom salt crystals with the soil, working them into the ground carefully to avoid damaging the roots. Use your fingers or a trowel. Step 4 Irrigate your tomato plant to dissolve the crystals, releasing the nutrients into the soil.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Miss Chen
Excessive amounts of blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) on a bush, called over-cropping, are typically smaller berries of poorer quality. To prevent this, prune canes to reduce the number of berry-producing buds. Fruit buds grow on new shoots one year before berries appear. Annual, moderate pruning of blueberry bushes will result in fewer canes but larger berries and greater, more consistent yields.
Species to Prune Blueberries like well-drained, acidic soil with a pH between 4.5 to 5.5. The most widely grown species, highbush blueberries (Vaccinium corymbosum), grow from 6 to 12 feet tall in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3a through 8b. Rabbiteye blueberries (Vaccinium ashei) grow 6 to 8 feet tall in USDA zones 7a through 9B. Lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium augustifoliam) grow from 6 inches to 2 feet tall in USDA zones 2a to 6b. When to Prune Prune blueberries in late winter to early spring after the chance of freezing weather has passed. If you delay pruning a bush for a year or more then prune it heavily, canes maturing simultaneously will yield fewer berries. Pruning after harvesting berries will decrease long-term yield and make a bush susceptible to winter injury. Tools to Use Use hand-pruning shears to remove 1-year-old wood and a pruning lopper or hand saw to remove 2- to 3-year-old wood. Disinfect pruning tools before use by soaking them for five minutes in 1 part household bleach to 3 parts water and let air dry.
Pruning Young Bushes Allowing young bushes to produce berries can stunt their growth, leading to several years of substantially lower harvests. To prevent this, prune the round, plump fruit buds 2 to 3 inches from the tips of the shoots. Prune to shape an upright plant that lets sunlight into the interior. Remove twisted and low-growing canes at the start of the third year. Prune low-growing weak shoots from the bottom of young bushes. Since they'll be shaded by vigorous shoots above them, they won't be productive. Thicker, higher shoots will bloom later and bear larger berries. Pruning young, vigorous shoots to 4 to 6 inches below the top of the bush will stimulate side branches, increasing berry yields. If a bush grew more than two new canes the previous year, prune all but the two most vigorous new canes at the level of the crown. Continue this light pruning until the bush reaches full maturity at about six years. Pruning Mature Bushes Blueberry canes give smaller yields and poorer quality berries after they're fully mature. Eight-year-old canes need more leaves to support their berries. Since they have usually grown numerous branches, their new shoots on which berries grow are typically weak and thin. Prune one or two of the largest canes, including unproductive canes larger than 1 inch thick. Allow the same number of new canes to grow as replacements. If a bush contains a mix of different-aged canes, then you'll lose a minimal amount of berries by removing 8-year-old canes each year. Seven-year-old canes will replace pruned 8-year-old canes. You can prune up to 20 percent of a bush without affecting its yield. There will be fewer, larger berries, but eventually the entire crown will be renewed. Since root suckers bear more berries than stump suckers on highbush cultivars, prune their old canes to the ground. Prune old canes of rabbiteye cultivars to 6 to 12 inches from the ground, forcing new, berry-producing canes to grow from their stumps. To rejuvenate a declining bush, prune diseased, insect-infested and dead canes, then weak canes shaded by large canes. Prune older canes throughout the canopy to let in more light and encourage new canes to grow. If the bush no longer produces berries, prune all canes to renew growth.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Miss Chen
Blueberries (Vaccinium spp.) need soil that is acidic -- in the pH range of 4.5 to 5.5 -- and rich in organic matter, at least six hours of full-sun exposure per day and 1 to 2 inches of water per week. Preparing soil prior to planting and maintaining it on a regular basis will help keep blueberry production at optimal levels. Reducing soil's acidity is a process that can take several years, and keeping it acidic is necessary. Blueberries are hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7, depending on their variety.
Test the Soil Using a home soil pH kit, available from home and garden retailers, test the pH level of the soil in the area where you plan to plant blueberries. Alternatively, your county's Cooperative Extension office will perform the test for you for a fee. If the soil's pH level is over 6.5, then consider an alternative to blueberries because maintaining the soil pH range necessary for successful blueberry production may not be possible. Determined gardeners who live in areas where the soil pH level is too high for blueberry cultivation, however, often have success with using raised plant beds and imported soil that has the necessary pH range. Blueberries thrive with sufficient drainage, and raised beds help meet that preference. Incorporate Elemental Sulphur The addition of elemental sulfur is an effective way to lower soil's pH level, making it more acidic. Because elemental sulfur needs at least six months to react with water in soil and lower the soil's pH level, add it in either spring or fall. Elemental sulfur can be purchased in powder or pellet form from home and garden retailers. County Extension publications also offer guidelines on the application of elemental sulfur to garden soil. Purchase elemental sulfur rather that aluminum sulphate because the latter can be toxic to plants. The amount of elemental sulfur necessary depends on the soil's starting pH level and the desired pH level. It takes 2.4 pounds of elemental sulfur for every 100 square feet of soil to lower loam soil's pH level by one point. The amount of elemental sulfur used should be increased by one-half in clay soil and decreased by one-third in sandy soil. Incorporate the elemental sulfur thoroughly into the soil to a depth of 6 inches.
Retest the Soil Before Planting Check soil's pH level again before planting blueberry plants. If the pH level is above 5.5, then incorporate more elemental sulfur with the soil. If the pH level lowered to 5.5 or below, dig a planting hole as deep as its respective blueberry plant's root ball and twice the root ball's width, or at least 18 inches wide and 20 inches deep. Fill part of the hole with organic matter such as bark dust, sawdust or peat moss to promote drainage and to provide nutrients. Loosen the outside surface of the plant's root ball before planting, and set the plant in the hole so that the top of its soil line -- where the soil surface was when the plant was in its nursery container -- is 1 to 2 inches above the ground level that surrounds the planting hole. Fill the rest of the planting hole with soil and organic matter. Place a 2- to 4-inch-thick layer of mulch on the soil surface around the plant -- but not touching the plant -- to help protect the blueberry's roots and to curtail weed growth. Avoid using manure or compost containing yard debris because they may have high pH levels. Repeat the planting process for each blueberry plant, and space the bushes about 5 feet apart. Maintain the Soil Carefully Retest the soil's pH level every two to three years, and reapply elemental sulfur accordingly to maintain an optimal level. Over time, soil naturally reverts to its previous condition. Mulching blueberry plants well with organic materials that have low pH levels helps keep the soil acidic.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Miss Chen
When deciding a new plant to grow in Georgia, a blueberry bush is a GREAT choice. The are easy to maintain, don't have thorns and won't spread like crazy growing all over the place.
Recently, doctors have started saying that blueberries are among the top most beneficial fruits to feed your body. It's no wonder, considering they yield the highest antioxidant capacity of all fresh fruit, neutralize free radicals and aid in reducing belly fat. Not to mention they help promote urinary tract health, brain health, help to fight heart disease and help relieve constipation and digestion. Some doctors even suspect they are linked with reversing cancer! If you live in Georgia, you are exceptionally lucky as you live in the perfect climate for growing blueberries. It's in the south so it makes growing them much easier as the summers are long and hot and there is usually very little cold. It's the perfect climate to grow blue berries, in Georgia! So how do you do it? The following three simple steps will show you. Step 1 Choose the right variety of blueberry bush! Get the rabbiteye blueberry bushes as they are best for the climate in the south. If you want to grow blueberries in Georgia, it is critical you choose the rabbiteye variety for the most success. There are three different varieties of blueberries, such as highbush, lowbush and rabbiteye. The highbush and lowbush are more geared toward climates other than the kind in Georgia, so you will want to steer away from them. Rabbiteye blue berries require more heat which makes them perfect for growing in Georgia. Another reason you will want to plant rabbiteye blueberry bushes is because they tend to grow the biggest at a whopping 10 feet high! That means more blueberries for your money and more bang for your buck. Where do you get rabbiteye blueberry bushes? Most local nurseries in Georgia carry them, but if you have any trouble finding them you can always order them online for fairly cheap. When you buy them, try to get plants that 2 years old as it will drastically speed up the production of blueberries.
Step 2 Plant them correctly. They are self fertile, but for the best results plant them near two other varieties to create cross pollination. For the best development possible of rabbiteye blueberries bushes, plant them in the absolute sunniest place possible and in a region where they won't be crippled by late spring frosts. Make sure you plant them in an acidic soil of anywhere between 4.5 pH and 4.8 pH, as this is what they will need to grow and meet their full potential. Most soils aren't this acidic, naturally, so be sure to do a bit of soil testing to make sure you select the most acidic and fertile spot. You can buy home soil test kits either at the nursery where you buy the plant. If you can't find them in your local nursery, feel free to order your soil test kit online as well. If the soil in the area has too high of a pH balance, be sure to acidify it with Mir-Acid. You can buy Mir-Acid at just about any nursery nationwide. To make the soil more fertile for the growth of your blueberries, be sure to add compost to the soil. Once you make sure the soil is both fertile and of the right acidity, begin to plant your blueberry bushes by spacing them approximately four feet away from each other. Be sure to plant the blueberry bushes so that their bloom periods overlap. For example, you want to have one mid season and one getting ready to start it's bloom period. This will ensure you will have blue berries year round. I recommended applying a wood chip mulch around your blueberry plant to discourage the growth of weeds. Step 3 Maintain them correctly. There are quite a few important things you need to do to make sure that your blueberries production is maintained. One of these things is to test the pH balance of the soil annually to make sure that it hasn't changed. After your blueberry bushes have been in production for a few years, you will want to prune them to open the way for new growth. You'll need a good strategy to keep the birds away, unless you don't mind having the birds raid your plants. If you don't want to share the blueberries with the birds, then you're going to want to cover the bushes with a net. To determine when the berries are ripe and ready for eating, hold your hand beneath each clump and gently brush them with your fingers. Any berries that are ready to be eaten will easily fall into your hand. Enjoy!
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Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Miss Chen
Blueberry plants are simple fruits to for almost anyone to grow. They grow in a variety of regions and will regrow year after year. A single blueberry plant can produce up to eight bushels of blueberries in a single growing season. Blueberries grow best in areas with acidic soil, so if your region has an abundance of acidity, you are in an even more ideal position to grow blueberries at home.
Step 1 Wait until the threat of frost subsides in the early spring to plant blueberry bushes. Step 2 Plan blueberry bush plantings in a location that receives at least four to five hours of sunlight per day. Step 3 Dig a space measuring 4 feet wide by 2 feet deep in which to grow each blueberry plant. Space the blueberry plants 6 feet apart since full grown plants will bush out quite a bit. Step 4 Pour a thick layer of peat moss into the bottom of the hole and then insert the blueberry bush on top of it. Use your hands to pack the soil around the base of the blueberry plant to completely cover the roots.
Step 5 Trim away the lower branches of the blueberry plant to prevent them touching the ground. Step 6 Apply fertilizer to the blueberry plant after it has been planted for several months. Use a 10-10-10 fertilizer and spread it in a 12-inch diameter around the base of the blueberry plant. Step 7 Water the blueberry plants at least twice per week and more during periods of drought.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月12日
Miss Chen
There are good reasons gardeners typically choose to grow blueberries from cuttings or nursery shrubs -- they take less time to produce blueberries and reproduce their parents' traits accurately. For the patient gardener, though, growing blueberry shrubs from seed can be an adventure with surprising results. Choose the right type of blueberry and give it enough sun and acidic soil and you might find your name on a new variety.
Blueberry Basics Match the type of blueberry you plant to the conditions in your garden. Wild lowbush blueberries (Vaccinium angustifolium) are hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3 through 7 and plants demand between 1,000 and 1,200 chilling hours -- time below 45 degrees Fahrenheit -- for annual bloom and berry production. Lowbush blueberries bloom in May and June on 2-foot tall shrubs that form colonies. Highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) bushes grow as tall as 15 feet. Northern highbush plants typically grow from USDA zones 3 through 7 and need 800 to 1,000 chilling hours annually. Southern highbush (Vaccinium corymbosum hybrid) plants are typically hardy in USDA zones 5 through 10, and require only 150 to 800 chilling hours a year. All blueberries thrive in full sun in a moist, but well-drained, sandy loam with an acidic pH of 5.5. Romancing the Seed Most blueberries do not self-pollinate -- they need a nearby mate with similar genetic qualities to fertilize their flowers. This means blueberries are an unpredictable lot whose offspring seldom duplicate either parent. For this reason, it's usually better to purchase seeds collected by plant societies that contain known cultivars, but some prefer to harvest their own hybrids in the fall. Hold fruit in the refrigerator for several days before maceration and repeated rinsing with water. Remove floating pulp and sterile seeds with a paper towel -- viable seeds sink to the bottom. Scarify seeds by placing them in damp sphagnum moss and filing them in the freezer or fridge for 90 days – that's over 2,000 chilling hours. Keep seeds refrigerated until planting time.
Making a Home After scarifying seeds in the fridge, plant blueberry seeds outdoors in the fall in warm climates and in spring in the North. For better cultural control, plant them in dampened Sphagnum peat moss in trays. Wherever you plant the seeds, cover then with only 1/4 inch of soil and keep the area continually moist. Blueberries can take six to eight weeks to germinate. Hybrid highbush seeds germinate more unreliably and might take longer than their wild lowbush cousins -- so don't give up until 12 weeks have passed. Sprouting plants need sunny, warm conditions. Moving Day Plants will only grow 5 to 6 inches in their first year, so Northern gardeners might want to keep their plants in a sunny window during their first winter. Keep indoor trays on sunny windowsills with a florescent light mounted 14 inches above each tray to provide supplemental light. You won't know what combination of traits your plant has until it begins blooming and bearing after two or more years of growth.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月11日
Miss Chen
Growing grapes is a wonderful hobby for home gardeners and wine lovers. When growing grapes, gardeners take advantage of some strategic companion planting guidelines to ensure that their grapevines grow vigorously and thrive.
Grape Growing Grapes require full sun, warm-to-moderate temperatures, plenty of water and quick-draining soil. Companion Planting In any companion planting situation, choose plants that have similar requirements. This makes every plant's chances of success better. Grape Companions Grapes do very well when planted with hyssop, basil, beans, geraniums, oregano, clover, peas and blackberries. Clover increases the fertility of the soil for grapes. Pest-Repelling Plants Some plants make good companions to grapes just because of their pest-repelling qualities. Because grapes naturally draw pests, planting garlic, chives, rosemary, tansy and mint around the borders of the vineyard is a good idea. Considerations Cold temperatures and frost will damage grapevines, regardless of companion planting.
Warning Never plant grapes with cabbage or radishes.
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