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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
Rosemary plants are hardy and able to withstand many adverse conditions, including freezing weather and short periods of drought. It is possible to revive dried-out rosemary plants, depending on the overall condition of the plant.
Severity Check the ends of the branches to determine the extent of damage. If the branches are thoroughly dried out, check the base of the trunk and roots. The rosemary plant needs to be replaced if the trunk or roots are dry and brittle. Maintenance If the plant is salvageable, carefully remove dried and dead leaves from it. Using a pair of sharp garden shears, trim the branches to remove all dried areas, without cutting into the live branches.
Conditions Thoroughly water the rosemary plant and provide plenty of natural light. Water outdoor plants at their base until the soil is thoroughly moist. For container-grown rosemary, fill the container with fresh water and allow the soil to absorb the water. Repeat this several times, until the soil retains the moisture.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
If you're interested in growing herbs, consider adding rosemary (Rosmarinus officianalis) to your list. Its delicate foliage is an attractive grayish-green and the plant fills the environment with its herbal aroma. Rosemary is generally easy to grow, but it might develop some problems if it's not given correct conditions or develops disease or pest problems. Catching these problems early can be essential to keep a rosemary plant in tip-top shape.
Not Enough Water Rosemary grows outdoors year round in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also makes a good potted houseplant. Native to rocky and sandy Mediterranean regions, it requires excellent drainage to thrive. The plant only needs a modest amount of water and tolerates drought well once established. But like any plant, insufficient water can cause its foliage to wilt; if this happens, test the soil with your fingertip and, if it's dry several inches deep, water the plant well. If you've caught the problem in time, the plant should revive and be undamaged. In future, water whenever the top few inches of soil feels dry to your fingertip. Over-Watering and Fungus A wilting rosemary plant can also indicate over-watering, a situation that tends to promote root rot. If the problem's not corrected, roots become slimy and soft, and stems wilt and eventually die back. Overly wet conditions can promote other fungal problems, such as powdery mildew, a disorder that causes fluffy white fungus to grow on stems and foliage; eventually, these plant parts dry up and die. In either case, trim away damaged parts of the plant, using shears to cut into healthy tissue below the damaged areas. Clean your blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts to prevent spreading disease. If the plant's soil is wet and soggy, and some roots are affected, remove the plant from the soil, trim off damaged roots and replant the rosemary in fresh soil. You can also dust cut roots and stems with cinnamon, a natural fungicide, to help the plant recover. If all the plant's roots are affected, the problem probably can't be corrected and it's best to discard the plant.
Pest Problems A rosemary plant can also attract several types of pests. These include aphids, which are soft-bodied greenish pests, and spittlebugs which leave a white, frothy liquid on the plant. Whiteflies, which are tiny whitish flying insects, might also appear. You might also see evidence of spider mites, microscopic pests that leave visible webs covering young leaves and stems. All these pests suck plant juices, causing foliage to wilt, dry up and eventually drop from the plant. Control a minor infestation by washing them off the plant with a strong stream of water. If an infestation becomes severe, spray the rosemary plant with insecticidal soap until it's dripping wet. Dilute the soap at a rate of 5 tablespoons per gallon of water, and repeat the spray every week or two, as needed. Preventing Problems Planting rosemary in the garden in a spot that gets full sun and has excellent drainage helps prevent problems with fungus. Rosemary can spread to reach a width of 2 to 4 feet, so space multiple plants at least 2 feet apart to ensure good air circulation, which also helps prevent fungal growth. If your soil contains clay and tends to drain slowly, add some coarse sand at planting to improve its drainage, or plant rosemary in a raised bed. If you grow rosemary indoors as a houseplant ensure the container has a drainage hole, keep it well-spaced from other plants and always let the plant drain well after watering; never let its pot sit in a water-filled saucer. Whether indoors or in the garden, check plants often for pest problems, because these are best controlled when caught early, before damage is severe.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) is generally easy to grow, but sometimes it can have problems. To track down the cause of yellowing leaves on a rosemary plant, check which leaves are yellow. If only some of the leaves are yellow, the problem may be different than if all are yellow. Also check if the leaves are completely yellow or if they have a speckled appearance, which may provide another clue. Proper care of your rosemary plant may be able to save it. If not, knowing what the problem was can help you to have a healthy plant next time.
Nutrient Deficiency A lack of necessary nutrients can cause a rosemary plant to have yellow leaves. The most common cause of yellow leaves is a lack of iron. The problem may also be caused by insufficient nitrogen, zinc or manganese. If the problem starts on young leaves and spreads to the old ones, it's likely an iron deficiency. If the first leaves to turn yellow are the oldest ones, it could be nitrogen, zinc or manganese that's missing. What your rosemary plant most likely needs to correct nutrient deficiency is fertilizer. Add fertilizer every month or two while the plant is growing, but no more than one or two times during winter dormancy. Use a basic water-soluble fertilizer such as 20-20-20 with micronutrients and mix 1 teaspoon of fertilizer with 1 gallon of water. If the soil pH is too high, iron may be present in the soil but your rosemary won't be able to use it. Check the soil pH with a test kit or pH probe. If your soil pH is 7.0 or higher it is too alkaline. Other imbalances that can cause trouble with the uptake of iron include too much copper, phosphorous, zinc, calcium or manganese. Too little potassium in the plant and too little iron in the soil will also turn leaves yellow. Repot houseplants to resolve such problems. For outdoor rosemary, use a soil test kit and then follow the label's recommendations for the results you get. Root Rot and Water Problems While rosemary grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, you can also grow it as a houseplant. Root rot is the most common reason for a yellowing houseplant. If your plant has this condition you'll see stunted yellow leaves as well as overall stunted growth. Rosemary prefers dry soil, and too much water can trigger root rot.
Take a look at the roots by carefully removing the plant from its pot and exposing the roots. Plants with root rot will have at least some black roots and the roots will look slimy. Healthy roots are white and firm. If only a few roots have rot, you may be able to save the plant by increasing drainage and cutting back on watering. Allow the plant to dry out completely between waterings, and don't let it sit in a tray of water at any time. Spider Mites If spider mites are feeding on your rosemary, the leaves may be spotted with yellow. If you look closely you may also see webs where the leaves join the stems. Left untreated, these pests can kill your plant. Set your plant in the bathtub or take it outside and wash it down with a forceful spray of water to remove many of the spider mites. Repeat this each week until the problem is gone. Make sure your rosemary isn't getting too dry between waterings, which can increase the chances of spider mite problems. Improper Lighting Rosemary plants need full sun, about six to eight hours a day, and indoor plants require plenty of supplemental light. If your plant gets inadequate light it may struggle to survive. The lower leaves on the plant will turn yellow and drop off. To prevent yellowing and other light-related problems, set your rosemary in a sunny south- or west-facing window where it gets enough sunlight. Supplement as needed with a grow light or standard fluorescent lighting. Place the fluorescent lights about 6 inches above the rosemary and leave them on about 14 hours a day. Use a timer to automate the light turning on and off.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) originated in the Mediterranean region, where it adapted to warm temperatures, sandy soil and a dry environment. In warmer areas (zones 7 to 11) it is a perennial and can grow outdoors. Plant rosemary in a pot in colder areas (zones 6 to 2) so it can be brought inside during winter to protect it from the cold. Rosemary prefers slightly alkaline, sandy, well-drained soil so that the roots do not stay wet and it can live up to 20 years when well cared for.
Starting from a Cutting The fastest way to get a rosemary plant started is from a cutting. Take the cutting from new growth on the parent plant, snipping about 2 to 4 inches from the end of the branch at the end of May or through the month of June. Trim off the bottom leaves and dip the end of the branch in rooting hormone before securing it in the lightly moistened potting soil. Cover the cutting and pot with a plastic bag to keep it in a warm, humid environment, between 60 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and out of direct sunlight. The cuttings take about two to three weeks to develop roots and new growth, at which point they can be transplanted. Without rooting hormone, the cuttings take about eight weeks to develop roots. Starting by Layering Layering is another method used to propagate rosemary quickly, because the branch remains attached to the original plant and continues to receive nutrients from it. Use a branch that easily reaches the ground and remove leaves along a 1-inch section at that point. Secure it to the ground using a landscape pin and cover the section stripped of leaves with dirt. The layered branch develops roots over the course of a few months, recognizable because new growth starts developing at the tip of the branch. At this point, cut the branch from the parent plant and move it to its new location, taking care not to disturb the roots too much.
Starting From Seed Although it is possible to start rosemary from seed, it is not the recommended method because the germination rate is only about 15 to 30 percent. They can take up to three months to germinate, so start them well before the planting season. Plant the rosemary seeds in a light, sandy potting medium, placing them about 3 inches apart. Spread a thin layer of the potting soil over the seeds and spray them lightly with water to moisten the soil. Cover the seed trays or cups loosely with plastic wrap to keep them moist and place them in a warm area. Once the seedlings start sprouting, they require ample sunlight and continued warmth. Plant them in larger pots or outdoors once there is no threat of frost. Burpee recommends waiting until the seedlings are about 3 inches tall before replanting. Growing Conditions Rosemary requires at least six to eight hours of sun a day for optimal growth. The plants reach a mature height of 3 to 5 feet, on average, with a spread of 4 to 5 feet, depending on the exact growing conditions and the specific cultivar. The size and shape can be controlled with pruning. When planted in a pot, rosemary may require transplanting and trimming twice a year because it grows fairly quickly. Once the outdoor temperatures reach about 30 degrees Fahrenheit, move the rosemary indoors to a sunny location with southern exposure and good air circulation to prevent the development of powdery mildew.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Miss Chen
Basil and tomatoes, both warm-weather plants that do well in containers, not only can be planted in the same pots, but should be; they are natural companions, having similar requirements for light, soil, temperature and water. Basil will also improve the growth and flavor of tomatoes, and may help to repel harmful pests. You can grow your basil and tomatoes in containers or hanging baskets. They will reward your efforts by being both attractive to look at and delicious to eat.
Planting and Care Use a large container for your basil and tomatoes. It needs to be at least a foot deep; a container that is about the size of a 5-gallon bucket is ideal. Avoid clay pots, which dry out quickly. Attractive and inexpensive plastic pots are a better choice. Make sure that the plants will get enough light by placing the container in an area that receives eight hours of full sun a day. Provide proper drainage by making sure there are ample holes at the bottom of the container and placing a layer of small stones at the bottom. Use a high-quality commercial potting mix. You will need 2 to 3 lbs. of potting mixture for cherry tomatoes and a basil plant; if you are growing a larger variety of tomato with your basil, you will need 5 to 7 lbs. Protect plants by waiting until night temperatures stay reliably over 60 degrees Fahrenheit before starting your container gardening. If the temperature falls below 55 degrees at night after a series of warm spring days, the tomato can suffer blossom drop. Basil is also extremely intolerant of cold temperatures and can be killed by a mere touch of frost. Prevent root rot by poking your finger 1 to 2 inches into the soil and only watering if the soil feels dry. Another reason to avoid overwatering is that too much water can hurt the flavor of the basil. Once a month during the growing season, use a fertilizer high in phosphorus; a 5-10-10 formulation is optimal. Basil Varieties If you are a novice at growing basil, you may want to start with sweet basil. This is the easiest variety to grow, and one that will impart a particularly sweet and mellow taste to its companion tomatoes. For an attractive basil plant that you can use in Asian recipes, try a Thai basil such as Siam Queen. For classic Italian basil perfect for making pesto, plant Genovese basil, which grows particularly well in pots. The Sweet Dani variety of basil has a delicate lemon scent and flavor. The Purple Ruffles or Red Rubin varieties can be slightly bitter, but some people like the tart quality, and the leaves make a vivid and attractive garnish in salads. Tomato Varieties For delicious cherry tomatoes which thrive in containers plant the Tiny Tim cultivar, which produces fruit in 45 days. Cherry Gold, a yellow-gold version of the Tiny Tim, is also a good choice. The Red Robin, which will produce in 55 days, is a super-dwarf plant that doesn't exceed 6 inches tall. The Yellow Canary variety is similar to the Red Robin but for its yellow fruit, while the Patio Hybrid is a larger plant with relatively sizable, abundant fruit. Since these tomato plants are of the determinate variety—meaning their growth stops at a certain point—it is not necessary to prune them.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) are tropical perennials that are typically grown as annuals. Not counting the germination of seeds, tomatoes go through roughly four stages of growth: vegetative growth as the seedlings develop, first flowering, first setting of tomatoes and growth of tomatoes until they're ripe and ready for harvest. The duration of these stages vary, depending on the tomato cultivar and the weather.
Counting the Days Immature tomatoes remain green for roughly 40 to 50 days. Once they reach their mature green size, their green fades to light green and then to its cultivar color. This is usually red, but some cultivars are orange, yellow or pink when they're ripe. Mature green tomatoes ripen best at 68 to 77 degrees Fahrenheit. Temperature higher or lower than this range slow the ripening. Tomatoes do not produce carotene and lycopene, necessary for tomatoes to color, when temperatures are above 85 F. Israeli growers of greenhouse tomatoes found that it took, on average, 15 days for seedlings to develop, another 15 days yield their first flowers, another 10 days before tomatoes set, and another 20 days until harvest. That comes out to about 60 days before first harvest. You may be able to harvest an early-yielding garden tomato that quickly, but most cultivars will take longer. The Crux Tomato plant growth from planting a seedling to harvest depends largely on how long it takes a plant to develop trusses, clusters of flowers that yield tomatoes. When flowers appear on your tomato plant, it's preparing to grow tomatoes. Two basic types of tomatoes grow trusses differently: indeterminate and determinate.
Indeterminate Tomatoes Older tomato cultivars, called indeterminate tomatoes, grow trusses of blossoms on side branches, not on their tips. Indeterminate tomatoes can grow close to 7 1/2 feet tall in warm climates and have to be supported by a stake or wire cage. They grow flavorful tomatoes that ripen over a long period. Their tomatoes may be late to mature. Pinching side shoots on indeterminate tomatoes eliminates excessive trusses and reduces foliage, causing the plants to produce more and larger tomatoes. When an indeterminate tomato has reached the top of its support, remove the tip of the plant, leaving six tomato-producing trusses on the sides of the stem. Here are some examples of indeterminate tomatoes and their time to harvest: 'Early Cascade' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Early Cascade'), yields large clusters of 4-ounce tomatoes in 55 days. 'Champion' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Champion') yields solid 10-ounce tomatoes in 65 days. 'Better Boy' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Better Boy'), a garden favorite, yields large amounts of 10-ounce tomatoes in 70 days. 'Beefmaster' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Beefmaster') gives high yields of 16-ounce, deep red tomatoes in 80 days. Determinate Tomatoes Newer tomato cultivars, called determinate tomatoes, grow flower trusses on their tips, so they stop growing taller. They grow as bushes, and some of them are dwarf plants. They do not require pruning of trusses like indeterminate tomatoes, and they yield an abundant quantity of tomatoes that ripen over a short period. Here are some examples of determinate tomatoes and their time to harvest: 'Sub Arctic' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Sub Arctic') yields 3- to 4-ounce tomatoes in 45 days. 'Mountain Spring' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Spring') yields smooth, 9-ounce tomatoes in 65 days. 'Pik Red' (_Solanum lycopersicum '_Pik Red'), a dwarf tomato plant, yields large amounts of 6- to 7-ounce tomatoes in 71 days. 'Mountain Pride' (Solanum lycopersicum 'Mountain Pride') gives heavy yields of 10-ounce tomatoes in 74 days. Growing Tomatoes Sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before you expect the last frost. It takes seeds seven to 14 days to germinate at 70 F. Whether you grow seedlings yourself or buy them in a nursery, plant them two weeks after the last expected date of frost in your area.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Miss Chen
According to research conducted by Ohio State University, "Uganda is an agrarian nation with more than 80 percent of its population engaged in small-farm agriculture." Needless to say, tomato production is an important part of Uganda's economy, as well as a food source for its people. However, Uganda's rainy season makes tomato plants very susceptible to diseases and pests. For the home gardener in Uganda, growing tomatoes is a challenge best met with planning and careful maintenance.
Step 1 Buy tomato seedlings carefully. There are many varieties in Uganda, but only a few of them are disease- and wilt-resistant. Contact the Office of International Programs in Agriculture to find where to obtain these plants. Plan to plant tomatoes in mid-February. Step 2 Choose a planting site that has good air circulation and receives at least eight hours of direct sunlight per day. Prepare soil for planting tomatoes in Uganda by tilling it to a depth of 8 inches, adding local organic compost to the soil as you go. Rake and cultivate until you have a loose, fine, deep soil mix.
Step 3 Plant tomato seedlings 18 inches apart. Drive a stake near each plant, and tie it loosely with plant ties. Do not allow tomato plants to grow along the ground--the tomatoes will rot during the rainy season (March through May). Step 4 Keep a sharp eye on tomato plants during the growing season and continue training the plants with stakes and ties as they grow heavy with tomatoes. If aphids or other insects appear, get a spray bottle full of water mixed with 1 tsp. of dishwashing liquid and spray the leaves as necessary. Step 5 Control weeds near tomato plants by pulling them as they appear to reduce competition for nutrients. Avoid using herbicides. Water plants only when the soil is dry to the touch.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Miss Chen
Epsom salt consists simply of magnesium sulfate. It is often used to ease the pain of sore or tired feet in a foot bath, but it can also be used in the garden to enhance performance of fruit. It is reported to improve the growth of tomatoes and stop blossom end rot that can totally rot a tomato.
Magnesium Epsom salt provides a good source of magnesium. Magnesium aids in chlorophyll production in plants. It is important because it enhances photosynthesis, or the manner in which plants breathe. They breathe in carbon dioxide and put out oxygen. Magnesium is usually found in the soil and is often included in many fertilizers. Sulfur Sulfur is a component in Epsom salt. Sulfur gives plants protein and other enzymes necessary for them to grow strong. Roots grow better with the benefit of sulfur and it helps plants endure colder temperatures. Sulfur is naturally delivered to plants through rain, but often they need a little boost. Magnesium Deficiency Yellowing leaves starting at the bottom and progressing to the top are one sign of a magnesium deficiency. Blossom end rot is also a sign. This is when the tomato blossom causes a large black spot on the very bottom of the fruit that gets bigger and bigger as the tomato grows. Eventually it will rot all the way through the tomato, rendering it useless.
How to Use Place a few granules of Epsom salt in the hole before planting the tomato plant. Once blossoms appear on the plant, sprinkle 1 tbsp. Epsom salt per foot of plant height around the base of the stem. Scratch it into the soil and water well. A plant 2 feet high should be treated with 2 tbsp. Epsom salt, while a plant less than 12 inches high will do with 1 tbsp. Apply every other week. Other Uses Dissolve 1 tbsp. Epsom salt in 1 gallon of water. Place some in a spray bottle and use this to spray on the fruit and foliage. This will keep the foliage green and also increase the thickness of the walls of the fruit, making for a delicious tomato. There is no real scientific evidence that Epsom salt works on tomatoes, but many gardeners have been using the substance with both tomatoes and peppers for years with great success.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月18日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum) naturally grow into short, bushy plants or tall vines, depending on their type. Tomato varieties are classified as determinate, indeterminate, semi-determinate or dwarf indeterminate. Determinate plants, also called bush tomatoes, grow 2 to 3 feet tall, while indeterminate tomatoes are also called vining tomatoes and grow up to 6 feet tall, but can grow as short, bushy plants when their central stems are pruned. Semi-determinate, or semi-bush, varieties grow 3 to 5 feet tall, and dwarf indeterminate, or dwarf vining, plants grow to the same height as bush tomatoes.
Growing Room Short, bushy tomatoes need deep, moist, fertile soil and plenty of room to grow healthily. Grow bush, vining and other tomato types in full-sun sites and organically rich soil, and space the plants according to the type. Space bush varieties 12 to 24 inches apart and vining varieties 24 to 36 inches apart. If you're growing large plantings of vining tomatoes, space them 24 to 48 inches apart in rows 4 to 5 feet apart. Alternatively space tomatoes according to the final growing dimensions on the seed packet or plant label. For example, space plants of a variety that grows 2 feet wide 2 feet apart. Water and Fertilizer For plentiful, disease-free tomatoes, water the plants regularly and apply fertilizer. Tomatoes need 1 inch of water or more per week in dry weather. Avoid wetting the leaves when watering to help prevent leaf diseases, and water deeply but infrequently when the soil surface is dry. Spread a 2- to 3-inch layer of organic mulch, such as garden compost, to help conserve soil moisture. When the tomato fruits are about 1 inch in diameter, apply 1/2 cup of 5-10-5 fertilizer per plant and work it 1 inch into the soil or mulch surface, taking care to not disturb the plant roots. Apply the same amount of fertilizer when you pick the first fruits.
Pruning and Support Most tomato varieties can grow as short, bushy plants with the right pruning and support. Bush and dwarf vining varieties don't need pruning because they naturally grow into short bushes, but the plants benefit from a supporting cage. Place a tomato cage over the plants after transplanting them into the soil or a pot. To grow vining and semi-bush tomatoes as short, bushy plants, prune the central stems when the plants reach the desired height. Wipe your pruning shear blades with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol, and prune the stems above the second set of leaves that lie beneath stem tips. Tomatoes often produce shoots, called suckers, where the side stems meet the central stem. Prune suckers in the same way when they reach the desired length. Staking is usually recommended for vining tomatoes, but this isn't needed when growing them as short, bushy plants. Harvest Time Harvest times for short, bushy tomatoes vary according to the variety. Tomatoes produce a crop about 65 days to 80 days after sowing. Plants that produce crops quickly are called early varieties, Mid-season varieties produce a crop in 65 to 80 days, and late-season varieties fruit in 80 days or more. Bush tomatoes are often grown for canning or freezing because they usually produce their crops within a six-week period, then they stop fruiting and die back. Vining, semi-bush and dwarf vining tomatoes produce crops throughout the growing season.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月17日
Miss Chen
Tomatoes grow best in temperatures between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, according to the University of Georgia Extension. Fortunately, the Peach State has plenty of days with temperatures in this range, making for a relatively long planting season.
Starting Seeds Georgia tomato seeds can be started indoors in late winter. Begin growing these four to seven weeks before the last frost in your part of the state. In Southern Georgia, you can begin these in early February. If you live in Northern Georgia, you may have to wait until late February or early March. Planting Seedlings Plant seedlings from mid-March to early May in Georgia. Those in the southern part of the state can normally plant any time during this period. Gardeners in Northern Georgia, however, should typically plant after mid-April.
Second Planting Some residents in the southern part of the state can plant a second crop in July. You could also plant tomatoes in a container during this time. Protect the plants by bringing them indoors at night in September and October if you live in the northern part of the state.
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