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Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Miss Chen
The United States grows – and consumes -- most of the world's popcorn. It's an ancient food. According to the Popcorn Board, the oldest known ears of popcorn, discovered in New Mexico in 1948 and 1950, date back 4,000 years. The traditional Corn Belt states grow most U.S. popcorn. The 12 states in the Corn Belt are Illinois, Iowa, Nebraska, Minnesota, Indiana, Wisconsin, Michigan, South Dakota, Kansas, Missouri, Kentucky and Ohio.
Nebraska Nebraska has been the largest producer of popcorn in the United States from 1977 through 2010. The state grows more than 25 per cent of the nation's popcorn. High irrigation rates are at least partly responsible for Nebraska's popcorn success. Indiana Indiana is only slightly behind Nebraska in popcorn production as of 2010. Combined, the two states produce roughly 55 percent of the nation's commercial production. For a time, after popcorn hybrids became increasingly popular in the 1940s, Indiana enjoyed the number one spot. Iowa, Ohio and Illinois Together, Iowa, Ohio and Illinois produce roughly 25 per cent of the total corn production in the United States. Up until the mid 1940s, Iowa was the top producer. After the introduction of popcorn hybrids, Illinois took over that position, followed by Indiana and finally Nebraska.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Miss Chen
Fresh sweet corn is among the most celebrated summertime crop from the home garden, but it is not the only natural variety of Zea mays grown in gardens or farmers' fields in the United States. Other corn types include grain field corn, ornamental/Indian corn and popcorn. Regardless of corn type, all are tropical annual grasses that need a fertile soil that is warm. Lots of sunshine and ambient heat and humidity allows the corn plants to bloom and develop rows of kernels on each cob.
Light Requirements Always choose a garden location that basks in full, all-day sunlight when growing corn. A full sun location receives direct sun rays for no less than 10 hours daily. Corn plants may still grow, albeit a little shorter and slower, in partial sun, but less than eight hours of sun is not conducive for plants to bloom and form cobs. The heat from sunlight warms the soil in spring adequately to allow seeds to germinate. Sunlight also promotes the best growth and photosynthesis in the limited number of leaves on each corn stalk. Spacing Because of corn's need for lots of sunlight, proper spacing of plants and rows ensures growing plants do not shade each other to detriment. The mature height of a corn depends on its variety, which genetically disposes them to reach a maximum height anywhere from 4 to 12 feet. All corn plants are rather narrow, never getting much wider than 20 to 30 inches; leaves tend to grow and orient in one plane on each stalk. Sow seeds 8 to 18 inches apart in linear furrow rows or hills. Space additional rows 30 to 36 inches apart. Garden Organization Besides needing to locate a corn patch in a fertile soil in full sun and spacing plants so they don't shade each other, you must also worry about pollination. Corn stalks bear female flowers in silks on the ear while the male pollen flowers occur high up on the stalk's tassel. Corn plants are wind pollinated. Without pollination of the ear silks, corn kernels will not form. Plant corn in multiple rows in a block or grouped format rather than in one singular long row. This ensures wind blows pollen among plants.
Corn Maturation Lots of sunlight allows the corn plant's narrow and few leaves to make carbohydrates to fuel creation of the kernels on the corn cob. Sweet corn kernels are plump, juicy and immature – the tastiest time to eat them. Conversely, grain field, popcorn and Indian corn must fully mature and then dry on the cob to be ready for harvest and long-term storage. While sweet corn may be harvestable merely 70 days after planting. Corn types that must fully mature and dry kernels and cobs may need a sunny garden plot free from frost for upward of 120 to 150 days after planting.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Miss Chen
Corn is known for growing into over-sized stalks that tower above peoples' heads, so finding corn that is stunted and short can be disheartening to a grower. A few environmental factors can explain corn stalks that won't grow tall, but it's not the end of the world when it comes to harvest. You may still reap a hefty amount of grain from short corn.
Temperature Corn grows by expanding its internode cells during its late growth stage when it does much of its stretching. The stalk elongates as the internodes grow. While shading can boost this growth, cool temperatures may slow it down by effecting cellular rigidity, stunting the plant's height and foliage for the rest of the season. Fortunately, leaf size at this point will not affect grain size. The new leaves that are emerging at the top of the plant will contribute to grain size, and these will continue to grow if conditions permit. But continued cool weather may slow down leaf development, resulting in fewer leaves and limiting corn's growth. Soil Soil compaction can create over-saturated conditions and stunt corn plant growth. Compacted soil restricts root development and disturbs its growth, forcing it into lateral branching. Plants in overly watered soil can also exhibit development and growth issues and appear stunted. Another possible soil problem is nitrogen deficiency. Corn demands a lot of nitrogen. Adding a nitrogen fertilizer to soil to replenish this nutrient may help corn that appears shorter than expected. Yield Unless your short corn plants are nutrient-deficient or suffering from excess moisture, short corn stalks should not alter yield amount. As long as the growth problem is related to shorter internodes, it will not affect grain size. Remember that some corn varieties are early hybrids that are ultimately shorter and have smaller yields than full season types.
Growing Corn Corn is a heavy feeder that loves nitrogen, so it needs well-tilled and fertile soil. The plant prefers soil temperatures of at least 65 to 75 F and night temperatures above 60 F. To protect against cold and frost, install a fabric floating row cover with hoops supporting it. Avoid planting corn in overly moist soil because it can damage and stunt the crop. Planting corn too early or late in the year may reduce the corn's height and yield. The type of hybrid planted plays a large role in growth rate and stalk height as well.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月21日
Miss Chen
Unlike sweet corn, which is prized for its tender kernels, ornamental corn and popcorn are harvested when hard and dry. Popcorn only pops once the kernels have dried, and ornamental corns are prized for their colorful dried kernels. Most of the drying occurs in the field before harvesting, but some further drying is necessary so the corn won't rot or get moldy. Proper harvesting and drying of the corn on the cob provides for the longest storage life.
Step 1 Harvest the corn cobs after the husks turn dry and brown. Bend the ear down toward the stalk, breaking it free with a twisting motion. Step 2 Peel back the husks from the corn ears. Cut the husks off at the base or leave them attached for ornamental purposes. Step 3 Spread the ears of corn in a single layer on a large screen. Set the screen up on bricks or sawhorses so air can circulate freely around the corn.
Step 4 Dry the corn in a warm, well-ventilated area for seven days. Turn the cobs daily so all sides dry evenly. Step 5 Press your fingernail into the corn kernels. Fully dried corn is hard and won't dent. Dry for an additional three to five days if your nail leaves an imprint in the kernel.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
Tomato plants (Solanum lycopersicum) are prized for their crimson, juicy fruit. You're not the only one who enjoys the taste of tomatoes. Various pests may attack and feed on the tomato plant's fruit and foliage, causing leaf loss, plant stress and potential fruit loss. Protect your garden from some of the most common pests that afflict tomato plants.
Psyllids Psyllids are tiny yellow or green insects that congregate on the underside of tomato leaves and inject a poison into the leaves, turning the tomato plant's foliage yellow and purple. These pests rarely reach population levels that cause true damage; most gardeners simply dislike psyllids for aesthetic reasons. If you choose to control and eradicate psyllids, make your own psyllid insecticide at home: Step 1 Pour 1/2 ounce of liquid hand soap or liquid dish detergent into a reusable spray bottle. Step 2 Add 2 quarts of water to the spray bottle. Step 3 Mix thoroughly. Step 4 Spray the soapy solution onto affected portions of the tomato plant, focusing on the underside of leaves where psyllids like to gather.
Step 5 Repeat once a week until psyllid activity subsides. Flea Beetles Flea beetles, another common tomato pest, are brown or black beetles that hop away from you when touched. The adult beetles eat small holes into the foliage of the tomato plant. Cover the vegetable bed with a floating row cover to block out beetles and protect young tomato plants. A floating row cover is an ultralight, ultrathin landscaping sheet that keeps pests from reaching the underlying plants but still lets sunlight and water get through. Drape the row cover over the garden bed as soon as tomato seedlings emerge, and weigh down the edges of the sheet with rocks or with U-shaped garden pins. If flea beetles have already arrived, a floating row cover will not help. Instead, dust all exposed surfaces of the tomato plants with food-grade diatomaceous earth. This all-natural powder is made from crushed diatoms. The powder's tiny, sharp edges kill flea beetles. Hornworms If you see large gray-green or green caterpillars crawling on your tomato plants, you have a tomato hornworm problem. This pest is a fast eater. In just a few days, the caterpillars can completely strip the entire tomato plant of its leaves and fruit. Pick the hornworms off of the tomato plant by hand. This is a convenient, efficient and simple way to eradicate the problem. Crush the caterpillars or drop them into a bucket of soapy water to kill them. If you prefer a hands-off approach, use an organic caterpillar insecticide made with Bacillus thuringiensis kurstaki. Bt is a natural bacterium that kills caterpillars when it gets ingested. Bt insecticides come in sprays and powders. Follow all labeled guidelines for product-specific application instructions. For example, when using a Bt insecticide powder with 0.4365 percent Bt, apply at a rate of 2 ounces for every 50 feet of row planting, dusting the powder evenly on all exposed parts of the tomato plant. Whiteflies and Aphids Whiteflies and aphids suck on the sap of the tomato plant and can cause wilting and leaf loss. A common symptom for either pest is the presence of honeydew -- a sticky, shiny substance excreted by the insects when they're feeding. Spray the tomato plant with a strong jet of water from a garden hose. This is often all that's required to knock the aphids and whiteflies off of the plant and kill them. Repeat once a week to keep pest populations low. Stink Bugs Last but not least on the tomato plant's most-wanted pest list are stink bugs. These shield-shaped beetles come in various colors, including brown and green. If touched, they let out a pungent odor, hence their name. Stink bugs feed on tomato fruits causing spotting and the inner tissue becomes spongy and white. The first sign of damage appears as tiny dark spots surrounded by discoloring that can turn yellowish or green as the fruit matures. Handpick the stink bugs off of the tomato plant -- wear gloves if you want to avoid their trademark stench -- and crush the bugs or drop them into a bucket of soapy water. Alternatively, use a handheld vacuum to quickly suck the insects off of the affected plant. Remove the vacuum's dust bag, place it in a sealed plastic bag and toss it in your freezer for a couple days to kill the trapped stink bugs.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
Don't be alarmed if you discover curled-up leaves on your otherwise healthy-looking tomato plants. Leaf curl, also called leaf roll, usually does not affect the quantity or quality of the tomatoes, according to the University of Illinois Extension service. Causes of leaf curl can include a physiological condition, exposure to herbicides or a virus affecting the tomato plant. Gardeners can take steps to prevent leaf curl, but the measures depend the source of the problem. Physiological Leaf Curl
Rainy weather combined with cool temperatures can cause tomato plant leaves to curl or roll up on themselves. The condition, known as physiological leaf curl, can also affect seedlings soon after you transplant them outdoors. The problem does not require treatment because it does not inhibit plant growth or harm the fruit, says Judy Sedbrook, Colorado master gardener with the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension. Another type of physiological leaf roll--termed "non-parasitic leaf roll"--occurs in response to over-pruning or lack of water. The leaf curl will usually disappear in a few days, once the plant recovers from pruning or its water supply stabilizes. Herbicide-Caused Leaf Curl
Tomato plants exposed to herbicides can show signs of leaf curl, and in severe cases, the leaf surface becomes white and the leaf itself turns thick and brittle. The most common herbicidal cause of leaf curl comes from 2,4-D, which is often used to treat lawns or crops for weeds. To minimize tomato plants' exposure to herbicides, never spray your plants with same sprayer that you use on your lawn. Don't use treated grass clippings as mulch around tomato plants. Herbicidal leaf curl can result in a harder-than-normal or misshapen tomato fruit, but unless the exposure to the herbicide is prolonged and severe, most plants will recover, especially if you provide them with frequent watering. Leaf Curl Virus
Sucking insects like the sweet potato whitefly and aphid transmit a disease known as the tomato yellow leaf curl virus. The condition usually affects tomatoes that grow indoors. Leaves that curl upward occur in the first stages of infection, then the leaves curl downward and become yellow. Since no cures exist for the virus, the best way to prevent yellow leaf curl virus is to control insect infestations and select healthy, insect-free transplants for fruit production.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
They say that wherever rosemary thrives in the garden, a woman is in charge of the household. Whether or not this is true, if you cook, you will be glad to have a rosemary shrub (Rosmarinus officinalis), with its pungent needle-like leaves so useful in the kitchen. Planted correctly, few herbs are less demanding. Established rosemary growing outside needs little supplemental watering.
Rosemary in the Garden Rosemary hails from southern Europe and western Asia where it grows wild in sandy soils and rocky scrub. The Mediterranean climate boasts warm summers and mild, dry winters, and these are the growing conditions the evergreen herb prefers. The bush grows outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10 where it can grow to 6 feet tall with a 4- to 5-foot spread. Rosemary is drought-tolerant, and established garden specimens generally get all the water they need from rainfall. Watering Rosemary You'll probably need to provide supplemental water to a rosemary plant in desert climates or in times of drought. Newly transplanted rosemary plants also need watering until they establish strong root systems. In these cases, the key is to provide occasional deep waterings that favor deep root growth rather than surface watering that encourages shallow roots. Don't water on a regular schedule. Instead, let the dryness of the soil tell you when it's time to water. Water the plant when the top few inches of soil feel dry to the touch. Excellent Drainage Needed When it comes to rosemary, drainage is as important, if not more important, than correct watering. Your rosemary plant's worst nightmare is to be stuck in wet, heavy soil. If this comes to pass, the shrub won't survive long. Rosemary does not tolerate having soggy soil around its roots and it may get root rot. Its native soil is sandy or rocky, and poor to moderately fertile, but the shrub grows well in any soil with excellent drainage. Rosemary also needs at least six hours a day of direct sun to thrive, but partial shade won't be fatal.
Container-Grown Rosemary If you grow rosemary in containers, outside or inside, you need to water the plants. But first, make sure the plant has proper drainage. Check for drain holes in the bottom of the pot, then put in a 1-inch layer of gravel. Grow the rosemary in an even mix of sterilized soil, peat moss and perlite. Water the plant thoroughly whenever the top few inches of soil are dry. Take care not to overwater a potted rosemary because this encourages root rot. For outdoor plants, make sure the container is sufficiently large that six hours of direct sun won't dry it out.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) can resist many pest and disease problems, but plants weakened or stressed may fall prey to problems. The shrub grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 10, but it also thrives as a potted plant in any climate. Soil or site conditions are common problems, although pests and fungus can also kill rosemary. It can be difficult or even impossible to save rosemary once it begins to die, but quick diagnosis and treatment sometimes prove successful.
Winter Kill Winter freezes can kill a rosemary shrub, but it may not become obvious until after the temperature begins to warm in spring. The evergreen sprigs begin losing their color, become dry and brittle, and eventually turn completely brown or yellow. (ref 3) Minor freeze damage only kills a few branches, allowing you to save the plant, while major damage kills the roots and plant entirely. Cut back the damaged branches to the nearest healthy wood using pruning shears disinfected with isopropyl alcohol. The healthy roots and remaining living branches will usually survive and put on new growth through spring and summer. Prevent future stress by growing the rosemary in a pot and overwintering it indoors, or by covering it with a frost blanket when short hard freezes are expected. Water Stress Locations that easily become wet or waterlogged slowly kill rosemary plants. Rosemary can tolerate more moisture in summer, but wet winter soil quickly kills the plant either by suffocating the roots or by freezing solid. Rosemary prefers well-drained soil and moderate moisture conditions. Dig up and transplant the shrub to a well-drained, full sun garden bed, or transplant it into a pot with bottom drainage holes. Water rosemary about once a week when there is no rainfall and when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feels dry, providing no more than 1 inch of water at each irrigation.
Fungal Disease Fungal issues typically go hand-in-hand with wet soil. Root and crown rot, caused by the Phytophthora spp. fungus, cause stunted growth or branch death. The rosemary sprigs yellow and dry out, while the base of the stem and roots become soft, mushy and produce a foul odor. Moving the rosemary to a site with better drainage and refraining from watering until after recovery may allow it to live if the roots aren't badly damaged, but most shrubs won't recover from root rot. Powdery mildew fungus, which forms as a white powder on the rosemary needles, favors dry conditions and warm temperatures between 60 and 80 degree Fahrenheit. Providing the rosemary with full, all-day sunlight and spraying the foliage with water early in the day to rinse away spores can minimize mildew issues. For extreme infections, cut out the mildewed branches with disinfected shears so the remaining healthy branches can recover. Leaf and Stem Pests Various pests feed on rosemary plants, including spittle bugs, aphids and whiteflies. Rosemary usually recovers from pest damage unless the infestation is severe or if the plant is already weakened by cold or water stress. Pear-shaped aphids feed on the underside of the stems. Spittle bugs leave behind a white, foamy residue that resembles spittle. Treat both by rinsing them off the rosemary with a sharp spray of water, or drench the plant with a ready-to-use insecticidal soap at five-day intervals until the pests are gone. Water sprays and soap products can also help control whiteflies. Spray the plants several times a day with water to discourage the flies and their larvae. Yellow sticky traps or reflective mulch spread around the rosemary may also minimize whitefly problems. Chemical Damage Premature needle death, yellowing of the needle tips or a general burned appearance may indicate chemical damage from herbicides, pesticides or improper fertilization. Herbicide drift, which occurs when the wind carries the spray beyond its intended target, causes leaf dieback or kills the entire plant. Pruning out the affected branches may allow the plant to recover if the chemicals haven't reached the roots. Excessive use of fertilizers can lead to the buildup of fertilizer salts in the soil, especially in container-grown plants. Watering the rosemary deeply so the excess moisture drains freely from the bottom of the pot at least once monthly during the summer helps flush out any excess salt. Nutritional Deficiencies Fertilizer is seldom necessary for a rosemary shrub, especially those grown in garden beds where the trace nutrients in the soil provide sufficient fertilization. Potted plants or those grown in exceptionally poor soil may be suffering from a nutrient deficiency if the plant grows slowly or develops stunted, pale yellow needles. An application of a general purpose fertilizer in early spring should provide enough nutrients to help the plant recover. Follow package instructions or mix 1/2 teaspoon of a soluble 24-8-16 blend with 1 gallon of water, and water the rosemary with the solution. Avoid applying fertilizer directly to the foliage because it can damage the needles.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月20日
Miss Chen
Although some plants take well to division, or splitting, woody herbs such as rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis cvs.) are propagated best with the layering technique. When layering, simply allow new plants to spring up alongside the "mother" plant until they are sturdy enough for you to "cut their cords" and move them to new locations.
Step 1 Choose one or two outer stems from the main rosemary plant, ensuring the stems look healthy and are tall. Spring is the best time to start this process, when the stems are most flexible and have plenty of time to root. If you want to layer more than one stem, then choose stems on each side of the main plant, and ensure each stem has room to grow. Step 2 Mix one handful of compost and one handful of bonemeal with the top 4 to 6 inches of soil on each side of the rosemary plant. Each amended area should be a rectangular patch about 6 inches wide and 12 inches long, extending outward from the base of your selected stems. Step 3 Dig a narrow trench about 2 inches deep in the center of the 12-inch-long section of amended soil. You can also judge the length for the trench by the general height of the stem that will lay in it, minus about 2 inches of the stem's leafy end.
Step 4 Strip a selected rosemary stem of most of its needlelike leaves, keeping the leaves on about 2 inches of the stem's tip. Use a small, sharp knife to slice the underside of the stem gently in several places, and dust the underside with hormone rooting powder. Disinfect the knife before and after its use by either spraying it with a household disinfectant or soaking its blade for five minutes in a solution that is one part bleach to three parts water. Air-dry the disinfected knife or rinse it with clean water and dry it with a clean cloth. Step 5 Bend the stem gently down so that it lays flat against the bottom of the shallow trench. Do not press the last 2 inches of the stem's tip into the soil. That leafy part will remain above-ground. Use a landscape peg or U-shaped flexible wire at the midpoint of the stem to ensure the underside of the stem remains in contact with the ground. Step 6 Fill the rest of the trench with the amended soil so that most of the stem is buried but its leafy end sticks above the soil. Step 7 Repeat the process with each stem you want to layer to create a new plant. If you have several mature rosemary plants that you want to propagate, then repeat the process for the layering technique with them. Step 8 Water the soil of the buried stems on a regular basis until the stems form rootlets. Although rosemary plants usually don't do well in moist soil, the baby plants will. Step 9 Check for rootlets after several weeks by gently digging around the buried stems. It can take several months for the rosemary layering technique literally to take root. So be patient. Step 10 Separate the young, well-established plants from their mother rosemary plant by slicing off the young plants near the base of the mature plant. Step 11 Replant each young rosemary plant in its own container that has bottom drainage holes and is filled with potting soil. Alternatively, plant the young rosemary plants in a sunny place in your garden. When setting the young plants into containers or a garden bed, plant them at the same soil depth at which they previously grew. That depth usually is marked by a definite soil line on a plant's stem.
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Miss Chen
2017年11月19日
Miss Chen
Rosemary is an aromatic evergreen herb used in cooking and scented cosmetic products. If you are already growing rosemary, you can start several new plants from your mother plant. The easiest way to regrow rosemary is by pruning and rooting cuttings.
Step 1 Fill a small planter with soil or a mix of soil and sand or vermiculite. You can also plant several cuttings together in one large planter, rather than rooting single stems in individual planters. Step 2 Cut a soft stem just below a leaf or pair of leaves with a sharp knife or cutting shears. Choose a cutting no less than 3 inches – but up to 8 inches – from the tip. Step 3 Strip the leaves from the bottom of the stem so the portion of the stem that will be planted is free of leaves.
Step 4 Dip the end of the stem in hormone rooting powder, if desired. Rooting powder is available in gardening supply stores and fortifies cuttings, but it is not necessary when rooting rosemary. Step 5 Push the cutting into the soil and water it. Cover the plant with a plastic bag and leave it in a warm, sunny spot for about three weeks. Check roots by gently inverting the planter into your hand to see the underside of the soil.
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