文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
Multiplica tus plantas para conseguir nuevos ejemplares. Los métodos de multiplicación principales son: semilla, esquejes, acodos, división de mata, rebrotes de raíces e injertos.
Por otro lado, el intercambio entre aficionados funciona muy bien. Siempre hay alguien que quiere algún esqueje de una planta que tienes y al revés.
Esquejes
Impregna la base de los esquejes con polvo de hormonas de enraizamiento para favorecer la emisión de raíces. Se consigue un mayor porcentaje de agarre de los esquejes, aunque no es imprescindible.
Los esquejes de cactus deben dejarse que se seque la superficie cortada durante 7 días o más antes de colocarlos en el medio de enraizamiento; así se forma un callo que impide la putrefacción.
Esquejes de agua
Las siguientes especies echarán raíces introduciendo esquejes directamente en un vaso o recipiente con agua: Drácenas, Alocasia, Espatifilo, Hipoestes, Begonia, Coleo, Croton, Amor de hombre, Poto, etc.
Corta los esquejes con un cuchillo limpio y afilado, justo por debajo de un nudo de la hoja. Retira las hojas más bajas, impregna el extremo del corte en hormona de enrizamiento e introdúcelo en un tarro con agua (foto superior).
Injertos
A pesar de que el injertado se refiere normalmente a la unión de sólo dos plantas. A partir de múltiples injertos se puede obtener un manzano con distintas variedades o un rosal con flores de distintos colores.
La mayoría de los injertos se hacen a finales de invierno o principios de primavera, antes de que surjan los nuevos brotes. La púa debe recogerse durante el invierno y permanecer guardada en un lugar frío y húmedo a una temperatura cercana a 0ºC.
También podemos guardar algunas púas en casa, metidas en una bolsa de plástico dentro de la nevera y envueltas en papel de cocina húmedo.
Tras realizar el injerto, se debe cubrir la zona para evitar que se seque con cera para injertos.
División de mata
La división de mata es un método fácil y barato para obtener nuevas plantas a partir de las que ya tienes. Otoño y primavera son las épocas ideales para hacerlo. Sirve para Clivia, Agapanto, Gazania, Papiro, Verbena, Hipéricos, Helechos... multitud de plantas de interior y de exterior.
Separa las porciones con un cuchillo afilado dejando en cada trozo hojas y raíz; planta inmediatamente y mantén la tierra húmeda durante los primeros días. Intenta proteger a las nuevas plantas del viento.
Por otro lado, el intercambio entre aficionados funciona muy bien. Siempre hay alguien que quiere algún esqueje de una planta que tienes y al revés.
Esquejes
Impregna la base de los esquejes con polvo de hormonas de enraizamiento para favorecer la emisión de raíces. Se consigue un mayor porcentaje de agarre de los esquejes, aunque no es imprescindible.
Los esquejes de cactus deben dejarse que se seque la superficie cortada durante 7 días o más antes de colocarlos en el medio de enraizamiento; así se forma un callo que impide la putrefacción.
Esquejes de agua
Las siguientes especies echarán raíces introduciendo esquejes directamente en un vaso o recipiente con agua: Drácenas, Alocasia, Espatifilo, Hipoestes, Begonia, Coleo, Croton, Amor de hombre, Poto, etc.
Corta los esquejes con un cuchillo limpio y afilado, justo por debajo de un nudo de la hoja. Retira las hojas más bajas, impregna el extremo del corte en hormona de enrizamiento e introdúcelo en un tarro con agua (foto superior).
Injertos
A pesar de que el injertado se refiere normalmente a la unión de sólo dos plantas. A partir de múltiples injertos se puede obtener un manzano con distintas variedades o un rosal con flores de distintos colores.
La mayoría de los injertos se hacen a finales de invierno o principios de primavera, antes de que surjan los nuevos brotes. La púa debe recogerse durante el invierno y permanecer guardada en un lugar frío y húmedo a una temperatura cercana a 0ºC.
También podemos guardar algunas púas en casa, metidas en una bolsa de plástico dentro de la nevera y envueltas en papel de cocina húmedo.
Tras realizar el injerto, se debe cubrir la zona para evitar que se seque con cera para injertos.
División de mata
La división de mata es un método fácil y barato para obtener nuevas plantas a partir de las que ya tienes. Otoño y primavera son las épocas ideales para hacerlo. Sirve para Clivia, Agapanto, Gazania, Papiro, Verbena, Hipéricos, Helechos... multitud de plantas de interior y de exterior.
Separa las porciones con un cuchillo afilado dejando en cada trozo hojas y raíz; planta inmediatamente y mantén la tierra húmeda durante los primeros días. Intenta proteger a las nuevas plantas del viento.
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0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
Estas son las máquinas más frecuentes que se utilizan en jardinería. Algunas son más específicas y profesionales que otras, pero a nivel de aficionado, todas son útiles y recomendables.
Vale la pena invertir e ir haciéndose poco a poco con una buena maquinaria para los trabajos del jardín. Ahorran mucho tiempo y esfuerzo. Aunque, eso sí, piensa antes si realmente las necesitas. Por ejemplo, comprar una motosierra o un cortasetos para luego usarlo 2 veces al año, seguramente que no merecerá la pena y pueden sustituirse por un serrote o una tijera cortasetos respectivamente. Calcula tus necesidades antes de comprar.
Elige siempre marcas de calidad y con un buen servicio postventa. Como se suele decir: lo barato es caro. Casi siempre merecerá la pena gastar un poco más de dinero.
• CORTACÉSPED O SEGADORAS
1. Manual
No llevan motor de ningún tipo, son para utilizar en superficies de 500 m2 como máximo. Si quieres hacer ejercicio elige una de estas máquinas, si no, compra uno de los siguientes.
2. De Gasolina
Los hay que hay que empujarlos y otros que no.
3. Eléctrico de colchón de aire
No tiene ruedas, funciona con electricidad y es adecuado para jardines pequeños. "Flota" y el esfuerzo de empujarlos es pequeño.
4. Cortacésped autoportante o "tractorcito"
Vas sentado. Se utiliza para jardines grandes. A partir de 3.000 m2 son muy recomendables. Se le puede acoplar un pequeño y práctico remolque.
5. Motoguadaña
Tiene un ancho de corte muy grande. Para segar praderas amplias con un corte más basto.
• ESCARIFICADORA
Esta máquina es menos conocida. Lo que hace es arañar el césped con una serie de cuchillas verticales que tiene.
Prácticamente todos los céspedes deberían escarificarse al menos 1 vez al año en primavera (ideal es otra vez más en otoño). Es una operación muy buena porque lo regenera y rompe el fieltro que se forma en la superficie del suelo.
Como ocurre con los cortacésped, las escarificadoras las hay manuales (hay que empujarlas) y degasolina. Estas últimas son mucho mejores.
Las empresas de jardinería es habitual que tengan alguna pero a nivel de jardinero es más corriente alquilarla por 1 día cuando se necesite (1 ó 2 veces al año) o bien, si se quiere, comprar los modelos baratos desde 120 € (las profesionales cuestan 1.500 €).
Vale la pena invertir e ir haciéndose poco a poco con una buena maquinaria para los trabajos del jardín. Ahorran mucho tiempo y esfuerzo. Aunque, eso sí, piensa antes si realmente las necesitas. Por ejemplo, comprar una motosierra o un cortasetos para luego usarlo 2 veces al año, seguramente que no merecerá la pena y pueden sustituirse por un serrote o una tijera cortasetos respectivamente. Calcula tus necesidades antes de comprar.
Elige siempre marcas de calidad y con un buen servicio postventa. Como se suele decir: lo barato es caro. Casi siempre merecerá la pena gastar un poco más de dinero.
• CORTACÉSPED O SEGADORAS
1. Manual
No llevan motor de ningún tipo, son para utilizar en superficies de 500 m2 como máximo. Si quieres hacer ejercicio elige una de estas máquinas, si no, compra uno de los siguientes.
2. De Gasolina
Los hay que hay que empujarlos y otros que no.
3. Eléctrico de colchón de aire
No tiene ruedas, funciona con electricidad y es adecuado para jardines pequeños. "Flota" y el esfuerzo de empujarlos es pequeño.
4. Cortacésped autoportante o "tractorcito"
Vas sentado. Se utiliza para jardines grandes. A partir de 3.000 m2 son muy recomendables. Se le puede acoplar un pequeño y práctico remolque.
5. Motoguadaña
Tiene un ancho de corte muy grande. Para segar praderas amplias con un corte más basto.
• ESCARIFICADORA
Esta máquina es menos conocida. Lo que hace es arañar el césped con una serie de cuchillas verticales que tiene.
Prácticamente todos los céspedes deberían escarificarse al menos 1 vez al año en primavera (ideal es otra vez más en otoño). Es una operación muy buena porque lo regenera y rompe el fieltro que se forma en la superficie del suelo.
Como ocurre con los cortacésped, las escarificadoras las hay manuales (hay que empujarlas) y degasolina. Estas últimas son mucho mejores.
Las empresas de jardinería es habitual que tengan alguna pero a nivel de jardinero es más corriente alquilarla por 1 día cuando se necesite (1 ó 2 veces al año) o bien, si se quiere, comprar los modelos baratos desde 120 € (las profesionales cuestan 1.500 €).
1
0
文章
Miss Chen
2017年08月26日
Conocer y mejorar el suelo es muy importante.
A continuación tienes las características ideales que debería tener un suelo para el cultivo de plantas. Repásalas e intenta mejorar cada una de ellas en tu caso particular.
1. Profundo
A veces hay una roca dura no atravesable por las raíces (por ejemplo, a 40 cm. de profundidad) ouna capa compacta de arcilla. Esto es malo. Cuanto más suelo tengan las raíces para extenderse sin limitaciones, más tamaño alcanzarán las plantas.
Cava con la azada y comprueba si hay una capa dura o no; ésta puede ser la causa de que muchos árboles y arbustos no prosperen adecuadamente.
» Mejora: añade tierra vegetal y labra en profundidad para romper la capa impermeable si es que ésta es muy somera.
2. Estructura migajosa, mullido, aireado
» Mejora: aportar materia orgánica. En los suelos arcillosos, además de la materia orgánica, es conveniente mezclar también arena de río.
3. Fácil de trabajar
Los suelos arcillosos son difíciles de trabajar porque la tierra mojada es una masa densa, y cuando están secos es demasiado duro.
» Mejora: aporta materia orgánica y arena.
4. Buena capacidad para retener agua
Los suelos arenosos son secos; no almacenan el agua como los arcillosos y hay que regar bastante. Con los arcillosos no hay problema en este aspecto, incluso puede ser negativo si retienen demasiada agua.
» Mejora: en tierras arenosas, y por tanto, con baja capacidad de retención, puedes darle cohesión añadiendo unos 100 kilos por cada 100 m2 de turba u otro tipo de materia orgánica e, incluso, añadiendo algo de tierra arcillosa.
» Si retiene poca agua, riega con menos cantidad pero con más frecuencia. El riego por goteo en suelo arenoso es ideal.
5. Buen drenaje
Los suelos arcillosos tienen tendencia a encharcarse, lo cual pudre las raíces. Aunque no todos los suelos arcillosos drenan mal. Cuidado en las zonas bajas, que es donde se acumula más agua.
» Mejora: para mejorar un mal drenaje, puedes hacer lo siguiente:
1. Instalar tubos de drenaje.
2. Dar pendientes al terreno para evitar charcos.
3. Aportar arena: unos 2 ó 3 metros cúbicos por cada 100 m2 de superficie. Cuanta más, mejor.
4. Aportar materia orgánica al suelo: airea.
5. Eligir especies que resistan mejor sus condiciones asfixiantes. Consulta esta lista.
Más información sobre drenaje en el artículo titulado "Drenaje de suelos".
6. Buena capacidad para retener nutrientes minerales
Al igual que sucede con el agua, los suelos arenosos retienen pocos nutrientes. El Nitrógeno, Potasio, Azufre, Hierro, etc. son arrastrados fuera del alcance de las raíces por la acción del agua del riego y la lluvia, perdiéndose estos elementos nutritivos.
Los suelos arcillosos en este aspecto son mejores, ya que almacenan muchos nutrientes minerales; tienen "grandes bolsillos". Pero los nitratos sí que se lavan en ambos tipos de suelos.
» Mejora: aporta materia orgánica. Por ejemplo, estiércol, mantillo, compost o turba entre 1 y 3 Kg. por m2 y mezcla con la tierra.
» En suelos arenosos usa fertilizantes de lenta liberación en lugar de los minerales solubles tradicionales, para que se vayan disolviendo poco a poco y se pierda menos.
7. Rico en materia orgánica (humus)
Cuando hablamos de materia orgánica del suelo nos referimos al humus. El humus es una sustancia muy beneficiosa para el suelo y para la planta:
1. Esponja el suelo.
2. Retiene agua y minerales.
3. Aporta nutrientes minerales poco a poco para las plantas a medida que se descompone (Nitrógeno, Fósforo, Potasio, Magnesio, etc.).
» Mejora: para aumentar el nivel de materia orgánica de un suelo se necesita tiempo. De la noche a la mañana no se puede pasar de un 1% de humus al 2%; se consigue a lo largo de años.
» Lo mejor es echar materia orgánica año tras año. Por ejemplo: estiércol, mantillo, compost casero, turba, guano, humus de lombriz, etc..
8. Rico en nutrientes minerales
Todas las plantas necesitan tomar del suelo estos 13 elementos minerales.
Macronutrientes:
- Nitrógeno (N)
- Fósforo (P)
- Potasio (K)
- Calcio (Ca)
- Magnesio (Mg)
- Azufre (S)
Micronutrientes:
- Hierro (Fe)
- Zinc (Zn)
- Manganeso (Mn)
- Boro (B)
- Cobre (Cu)
- Molibdeno (Mo)
- Cloro (Cl)
Los suelos arcillosos suelen ser ricos en nutrientes y los suelos arenosos, pobres. Ejemplo extremo de suelo arenoso es la playa.
Para saber si un suelo es rico o no en nutrientes se hacen análisis de la tierra en un laboratorio especializado.
» Mejora: mediante los abonos orgánicos (estiércol, compost, turba, etc.) y los fertilizantes minerales aportamos al suelo los nutrientes necesarios. Si no lo hiciéramos se agotarían más tarde o más temprano.
9. pH comprendido entre 5,5 y 8
Afortunadamente el 80% de los suelos está entre estos valores, pero si fuera un pH por debajo o por encima, deberías corregirlo. Los métodos para medir el pH los tienes en esta página.
a) Si el suelo fuera muy ácido (pH<5,5) escasearán algunos nutrientes esenciales para las plantas como Calcio, Magnesio, Fósforo, Molibdeno y Boro y la estructura no suele ser buena.
» Mejora: el pH se sube incorporando caliza molida. Dosis: 15-20 Kg. por cada 100 metros cuadrados a aportar en otoño y se entierra labrando.
b) Si el suelo es neutro (pH entre 6,5 y 7), perfecto, hay una óptima disponibilidad de todos los que las plantas necesitan normalmente. Aunque algunas, llamadas acidófilas, lo prefieren inferior a 6,5, y otras (calcícolas), son felices con un pH superior a 7.
c) Si el suelo es básico o alcalino (pH>8) es muy probable que escaseen el Hierro, Manganeso, Zinc, Cobre y Boro, y las acidófilas y otras plantas sensibles a estas carencias, como el naranjo, el hibisco, etc., amarillearán y darán pocas flores a menos que modifiques el pH. El ejemplo más típico es el de la carencia de Hierro (clorosis férrica).
» Mejora: para bajar el pH y que así se liberen los nutrientes insolubilizados se puede hacer lo siguiente (a elegir):
Sulfato de hierro
El sulfato de hierro es un producto barato y fácil de conseguir. Para aportar al suelo cómpralo en forma granulada (color marrón) en lugar de en partículas finas como cristales (color verde manzana).
El sulfato de hierro sirve para acidificar y adicionalmente para aportar algo de Hierro, aunque no mucho, y su principal función es la de bajar el pH.
Turba rubia
Aportando TURBA RUBIA SPHAGNUM, que es un material muy ácido (ph=3,5), se reduce el pH de la tierra. Dosis: 1 kilogramo de turba rubia por metro cuadrado. A los 2 ó 3 años se debe repetir el tratamiento.
Azufre en polvo
Otra opción para acidificar consiste en mezclar los primeros 25-30 cm. de tierra con AZUFRE EN POLVO. Dosis: 90 grs./m2. Aplica durante el otoño para que en primavera se note el efecto.
En medianas y grandes superficies es lo que sale más económico, por ejemplo, para enmendar todo el huerto o jardín entero antes de plantar nada. A los 2 ó 3 años deberás repetir el tratamiento.
Los suelos ácidos (pH<6.5) son fáciles de corregir aportando caliza molida, pero los suelos alcalinos (ph>7) son mucho más difíciles porque tiende a revertirse a la situación anterior, lo que obliga a repetir el tratamiento.
Además de bajar el pH, aplica al suelo un fertilizante especial, rico en hierro llamado "quelatos de hierro". También hay otros fertilizantes formulados con los demás micronutrientes, aparte del hierro, como el manganeso, cobre, zinc, etc. para las posibles carencias.
10. Suelo NO salino
No es frecuente, pero se puede dar. Los suelos salinos son los que tienen una cantidad excesiva de determinadas sales (Cloruros, Sulfatos, etc.). Más información sobre suelos salinos y su recuperación aquí.
11. Suelo no infectado por hongos, nematodos, gusanos de suelo ni malas hierbas
Un suelo cultivado reiteradamente aumenta las poblaciones de hongos que viven en el suelo, deNematodos (gusanitos microscópicos que parasitan raíces), de gusanos de suelo (blancos, grises y de alambre) y de malas hierbas...
Si un suelo está desinfectado cada 3 ó 4 años, mejor.
» Mejora: para desinfectar los suelos hay productos químicos, pero existe un método ecológico de desinfección llamado SOLARIZACIÓN que ofrece una gran eficacia. Artículo de qué es y cómo se hace la solarización.
Si un suelo cumpliera todo lo anterior sería el suelo modelo.
Puntualizar que hay especies que gustan de suelos particulares, por ejemplo, las acidófilas como Azalea, Hortensia, Rododendro, etc. son felices en suelo ácido (ph menor de 6,5) o las plantas del desierto viven mejor en suelos pobres. Pero hemos visto lo que es un suelo ideal en términos generales.
Y un dato a recalcar: aportando materia orgánica (estiércol, mantillo, compost, etc.) se mejoran la mayoría de características.
A continuación tienes las características ideales que debería tener un suelo para el cultivo de plantas. Repásalas e intenta mejorar cada una de ellas en tu caso particular.
1. Profundo
A veces hay una roca dura no atravesable por las raíces (por ejemplo, a 40 cm. de profundidad) ouna capa compacta de arcilla. Esto es malo. Cuanto más suelo tengan las raíces para extenderse sin limitaciones, más tamaño alcanzarán las plantas.
Cava con la azada y comprueba si hay una capa dura o no; ésta puede ser la causa de que muchos árboles y arbustos no prosperen adecuadamente.
» Mejora: añade tierra vegetal y labra en profundidad para romper la capa impermeable si es que ésta es muy somera.
2. Estructura migajosa, mullido, aireado
» Mejora: aportar materia orgánica. En los suelos arcillosos, además de la materia orgánica, es conveniente mezclar también arena de río.
3. Fácil de trabajar
Los suelos arcillosos son difíciles de trabajar porque la tierra mojada es una masa densa, y cuando están secos es demasiado duro.
» Mejora: aporta materia orgánica y arena.
4. Buena capacidad para retener agua
Los suelos arenosos son secos; no almacenan el agua como los arcillosos y hay que regar bastante. Con los arcillosos no hay problema en este aspecto, incluso puede ser negativo si retienen demasiada agua.
» Mejora: en tierras arenosas, y por tanto, con baja capacidad de retención, puedes darle cohesión añadiendo unos 100 kilos por cada 100 m2 de turba u otro tipo de materia orgánica e, incluso, añadiendo algo de tierra arcillosa.
» Si retiene poca agua, riega con menos cantidad pero con más frecuencia. El riego por goteo en suelo arenoso es ideal.
5. Buen drenaje
Los suelos arcillosos tienen tendencia a encharcarse, lo cual pudre las raíces. Aunque no todos los suelos arcillosos drenan mal. Cuidado en las zonas bajas, que es donde se acumula más agua.
» Mejora: para mejorar un mal drenaje, puedes hacer lo siguiente:
1. Instalar tubos de drenaje.
2. Dar pendientes al terreno para evitar charcos.
3. Aportar arena: unos 2 ó 3 metros cúbicos por cada 100 m2 de superficie. Cuanta más, mejor.
4. Aportar materia orgánica al suelo: airea.
5. Eligir especies que resistan mejor sus condiciones asfixiantes. Consulta esta lista.
Más información sobre drenaje en el artículo titulado "Drenaje de suelos".
6. Buena capacidad para retener nutrientes minerales
Al igual que sucede con el agua, los suelos arenosos retienen pocos nutrientes. El Nitrógeno, Potasio, Azufre, Hierro, etc. son arrastrados fuera del alcance de las raíces por la acción del agua del riego y la lluvia, perdiéndose estos elementos nutritivos.
Los suelos arcillosos en este aspecto son mejores, ya que almacenan muchos nutrientes minerales; tienen "grandes bolsillos". Pero los nitratos sí que se lavan en ambos tipos de suelos.
» Mejora: aporta materia orgánica. Por ejemplo, estiércol, mantillo, compost o turba entre 1 y 3 Kg. por m2 y mezcla con la tierra.
» En suelos arenosos usa fertilizantes de lenta liberación en lugar de los minerales solubles tradicionales, para que se vayan disolviendo poco a poco y se pierda menos.
7. Rico en materia orgánica (humus)
Cuando hablamos de materia orgánica del suelo nos referimos al humus. El humus es una sustancia muy beneficiosa para el suelo y para la planta:
1. Esponja el suelo.
2. Retiene agua y minerales.
3. Aporta nutrientes minerales poco a poco para las plantas a medida que se descompone (Nitrógeno, Fósforo, Potasio, Magnesio, etc.).
» Mejora: para aumentar el nivel de materia orgánica de un suelo se necesita tiempo. De la noche a la mañana no se puede pasar de un 1% de humus al 2%; se consigue a lo largo de años.
» Lo mejor es echar materia orgánica año tras año. Por ejemplo: estiércol, mantillo, compost casero, turba, guano, humus de lombriz, etc..
8. Rico en nutrientes minerales
Todas las plantas necesitan tomar del suelo estos 13 elementos minerales.
Macronutrientes:
- Nitrógeno (N)
- Fósforo (P)
- Potasio (K)
- Calcio (Ca)
- Magnesio (Mg)
- Azufre (S)
Micronutrientes:
- Hierro (Fe)
- Zinc (Zn)
- Manganeso (Mn)
- Boro (B)
- Cobre (Cu)
- Molibdeno (Mo)
- Cloro (Cl)
Los suelos arcillosos suelen ser ricos en nutrientes y los suelos arenosos, pobres. Ejemplo extremo de suelo arenoso es la playa.
Para saber si un suelo es rico o no en nutrientes se hacen análisis de la tierra en un laboratorio especializado.
» Mejora: mediante los abonos orgánicos (estiércol, compost, turba, etc.) y los fertilizantes minerales aportamos al suelo los nutrientes necesarios. Si no lo hiciéramos se agotarían más tarde o más temprano.
9. pH comprendido entre 5,5 y 8
Afortunadamente el 80% de los suelos está entre estos valores, pero si fuera un pH por debajo o por encima, deberías corregirlo. Los métodos para medir el pH los tienes en esta página.
a) Si el suelo fuera muy ácido (pH<5,5) escasearán algunos nutrientes esenciales para las plantas como Calcio, Magnesio, Fósforo, Molibdeno y Boro y la estructura no suele ser buena.
» Mejora: el pH se sube incorporando caliza molida. Dosis: 15-20 Kg. por cada 100 metros cuadrados a aportar en otoño y se entierra labrando.
b) Si el suelo es neutro (pH entre 6,5 y 7), perfecto, hay una óptima disponibilidad de todos los que las plantas necesitan normalmente. Aunque algunas, llamadas acidófilas, lo prefieren inferior a 6,5, y otras (calcícolas), son felices con un pH superior a 7.
c) Si el suelo es básico o alcalino (pH>8) es muy probable que escaseen el Hierro, Manganeso, Zinc, Cobre y Boro, y las acidófilas y otras plantas sensibles a estas carencias, como el naranjo, el hibisco, etc., amarillearán y darán pocas flores a menos que modifiques el pH. El ejemplo más típico es el de la carencia de Hierro (clorosis férrica).
» Mejora: para bajar el pH y que así se liberen los nutrientes insolubilizados se puede hacer lo siguiente (a elegir):
Sulfato de hierro
El sulfato de hierro es un producto barato y fácil de conseguir. Para aportar al suelo cómpralo en forma granulada (color marrón) en lugar de en partículas finas como cristales (color verde manzana).
El sulfato de hierro sirve para acidificar y adicionalmente para aportar algo de Hierro, aunque no mucho, y su principal función es la de bajar el pH.
Turba rubia
Aportando TURBA RUBIA SPHAGNUM, que es un material muy ácido (ph=3,5), se reduce el pH de la tierra. Dosis: 1 kilogramo de turba rubia por metro cuadrado. A los 2 ó 3 años se debe repetir el tratamiento.
Azufre en polvo
Otra opción para acidificar consiste en mezclar los primeros 25-30 cm. de tierra con AZUFRE EN POLVO. Dosis: 90 grs./m2. Aplica durante el otoño para que en primavera se note el efecto.
En medianas y grandes superficies es lo que sale más económico, por ejemplo, para enmendar todo el huerto o jardín entero antes de plantar nada. A los 2 ó 3 años deberás repetir el tratamiento.
Los suelos ácidos (pH<6.5) son fáciles de corregir aportando caliza molida, pero los suelos alcalinos (ph>7) son mucho más difíciles porque tiende a revertirse a la situación anterior, lo que obliga a repetir el tratamiento.
Además de bajar el pH, aplica al suelo un fertilizante especial, rico en hierro llamado "quelatos de hierro". También hay otros fertilizantes formulados con los demás micronutrientes, aparte del hierro, como el manganeso, cobre, zinc, etc. para las posibles carencias.
10. Suelo NO salino
No es frecuente, pero se puede dar. Los suelos salinos son los que tienen una cantidad excesiva de determinadas sales (Cloruros, Sulfatos, etc.). Más información sobre suelos salinos y su recuperación aquí.
11. Suelo no infectado por hongos, nematodos, gusanos de suelo ni malas hierbas
Un suelo cultivado reiteradamente aumenta las poblaciones de hongos que viven en el suelo, deNematodos (gusanitos microscópicos que parasitan raíces), de gusanos de suelo (blancos, grises y de alambre) y de malas hierbas...
Si un suelo está desinfectado cada 3 ó 4 años, mejor.
» Mejora: para desinfectar los suelos hay productos químicos, pero existe un método ecológico de desinfección llamado SOLARIZACIÓN que ofrece una gran eficacia. Artículo de qué es y cómo se hace la solarización.
Si un suelo cumpliera todo lo anterior sería el suelo modelo.
Puntualizar que hay especies que gustan de suelos particulares, por ejemplo, las acidófilas como Azalea, Hortensia, Rododendro, etc. son felices en suelo ácido (ph menor de 6,5) o las plantas del desierto viven mejor en suelos pobres. Pero hemos visto lo que es un suelo ideal en términos generales.
Y un dato a recalcar: aportando materia orgánica (estiércol, mantillo, compost, etc.) se mejoran la mayoría de características.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月25日
You’ve probably heard about black cohosh with respect to women’s health. This interesting herb plant has much to offer for those wishing to grow it. Keep reading for more information on black cohosh plant care.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
About Black Cohosh Plants
Found in the eastern United States, black cohosh plants are herbaceous wildflowers with an affinity for moist, partially shaded growing areas. Black cohosh is a member of the Ranunculaceae family, Cimicifuga reacemosa, and commonly referred to as black snakeroot or bugbane. Growing black cohosh gets the name ‘Bugbane’ in reference to its unpleasant odor, which renders it repellent to insects.
This wildflower has small plumes of star-shaped white flowers that soar upwards of 8 feet (more commonly 4 to 6 feet tall) above deep green, fern-like leaves. Growing black cohosh plants in the home landscape will definitively lend some drama due to its spectacular height and late summer blooms. Black cohosh perennials have foliage similar to that of astilbe, sharply serrated, and show themselves off nicely in shade gardens.
Black Cohosh Herb Benefits
Native American people once used growing black cohosh plants for a medley of medical issues, from snake bites to gynecological conditions. During the 19th century, physicians availed themselves of black cohosh herb benefits with regards to fever reduction, menstrual cramping, and arthritis pain. Additional benefits deemed the plant useful in the treatment of sore throats and bronchitis. Most recently, black cohosh has been utilized as an alternative medicine in the treatment of menopausal and premenopausal symptoms with a proven “estrogen-like” balm to reduce disagreeable symptoms, most especially hot flashes and night sweats. The roots and rhizomes of black cohosh are the medicinal portion of the plant and will be ready for harvesting three to five years after planting.
Black Cohosh Plant Care
In order to plant black cohosh in the home garden, either purchase seeds from a reputable nursery or collect your own. To collect seeds, do so in the fall when the seeds are mature and have dried out in their capsules; they will have started to split open and when shaken make a rattling sound. Sow these seeds immediately. Seeds for growing black cohosh plants must be stratified or exposed to a warm/cold/warm cycle to stimulate germination. To stratify the black cohosh seeds, expose them to 70 degrees F. (21 C.) for two weeks, and then 40 degrees F. (4 C.) for three months. Once the seeds have gone through this process, plant them 1 ½ to 2 inches apart and about ¼ inch deep in prepared moist soil that is high in organic matter and covered with a 1-inch layer of mulch. Although this herb prefers shade, it will grow in full sun; however, the plants will be of a lighter shade of green and may have more of a propensity for scalding of the foliage. You may want to sow seeds in a cold frame for germination the following spring if you have a particularly hostile climate. Black cohosh may also be propagated via division or separation in the spring or fall but not sooner than three years after planting. Maintain a consistently moist soil for your black cohosh plants, as they dislike drying out. Additionally, tall flower stalks may likely need staking. These perennials are slow growers and may require a little patience but will lend visual interest in the home landscape. Even the spent seed casings may be left throughout the winter to add texture to the garden.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月24日
If you have ever grown horseradish, then you are only too well aware that it can become quite invasive. No matter how carefully you dig it up, there will undoubtedly be some bits of root left behind which will then be only too happy to spread and pop up everywhere. The solution, of course, would be container grown horseradish. Keep reading to find out how to grow horseradish in a container.
Horseradish History
Before we get into horseradish container growing, I want to share some interesting horseradish history. Horseradish originated in southern Russia and the eastern region of the Ukraine. An herb, it has traditionally been grown for centuries for not only culinary use, but medicinal uses as well.
Horseradish was incorporated into the Passover Seder as one of the bitter herbs during the Middle Ages and is still used to this day. In the 1600’s, Europeans were using this spicy plant in their foods. In the mid-1800’s, immigrants brought horseradish to the United States with the intention of developing a commercial market. In 1869, John Henry Heinz (yes, of Heinz ketchup, etc.) made and bottled his mother’s horseradish sauce. It became one of the first condiments sold in the United States, and the rest is history as they say. Today, most commercially grown horseradish is grown in and around Collinsville, Illinois – which refers to itself as “the horseradish capital of the world.” It’s also grown in Oregon, Washington, Wisconsin and California as well as in Canada and Europe. You, too, can grow horseradish. It can be grown as an annual or as an herbaceous perennial in USDA zone 5. I couldn’t resist imparting some interesting facts, but I digress, back to planting horseradish in pots.
How to Grow Horseradish in a Container
Horseradish is grown for its pungent, spicy taproot. The plant itself grows in clumps with the leaves radiating out from that root. It grows to between 2-3 feet in height. The leaves may be heart shaped, tapering or a combination of both and may be smooth, crinkled or lobed. The plant blooms in late spring to early summer and becomes fruit that contains 4-6 seeds. The main taproot, which can reach more than a foot in length, is off-white to light tan. The whole root system can be several feet long! That’s why container grown horseradish is a great idea. You would have to dig a heck of a hole to get all of the root system out and, if you don’t, here it comes again, and with a vengeance the next season! When planting horseradish in pots, choose a pot that has drainage holes and is deep enough to encourage root growth (24-36 inches deep). Although horseradish is cold hardy, plant your container grown root after all danger of frost has passed or start it indoors. Take a 2” piece of root cut at a 45-degree angle. Place the piece vertically in the pot and fill in with potting soil amended with compost. Cover the root over with one inch of the soil mix and one inch of mulch. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, and place the pot in a full sun to semi-shady area.
Horseradish Care in Pots
Now what? Horseradish care in pots is pretty nominal. Because pots tend to dry out more quickly than in gardens, keep a close eye on moisture; you may have to water more often than if the root was in the garden. Otherwise, the root should begin to leaf out. After 140-160 days, the taproot should be ready to harvest and you can make your own version of Mr. Heinz’s mom’s horseradish sauce.
Horseradish History
Before we get into horseradish container growing, I want to share some interesting horseradish history. Horseradish originated in southern Russia and the eastern region of the Ukraine. An herb, it has traditionally been grown for centuries for not only culinary use, but medicinal uses as well.
Horseradish was incorporated into the Passover Seder as one of the bitter herbs during the Middle Ages and is still used to this day. In the 1600’s, Europeans were using this spicy plant in their foods. In the mid-1800’s, immigrants brought horseradish to the United States with the intention of developing a commercial market. In 1869, John Henry Heinz (yes, of Heinz ketchup, etc.) made and bottled his mother’s horseradish sauce. It became one of the first condiments sold in the United States, and the rest is history as they say. Today, most commercially grown horseradish is grown in and around Collinsville, Illinois – which refers to itself as “the horseradish capital of the world.” It’s also grown in Oregon, Washington, Wisconsin and California as well as in Canada and Europe. You, too, can grow horseradish. It can be grown as an annual or as an herbaceous perennial in USDA zone 5. I couldn’t resist imparting some interesting facts, but I digress, back to planting horseradish in pots.
How to Grow Horseradish in a Container
Horseradish is grown for its pungent, spicy taproot. The plant itself grows in clumps with the leaves radiating out from that root. It grows to between 2-3 feet in height. The leaves may be heart shaped, tapering or a combination of both and may be smooth, crinkled or lobed. The plant blooms in late spring to early summer and becomes fruit that contains 4-6 seeds. The main taproot, which can reach more than a foot in length, is off-white to light tan. The whole root system can be several feet long! That’s why container grown horseradish is a great idea. You would have to dig a heck of a hole to get all of the root system out and, if you don’t, here it comes again, and with a vengeance the next season! When planting horseradish in pots, choose a pot that has drainage holes and is deep enough to encourage root growth (24-36 inches deep). Although horseradish is cold hardy, plant your container grown root after all danger of frost has passed or start it indoors. Take a 2” piece of root cut at a 45-degree angle. Place the piece vertically in the pot and fill in with potting soil amended with compost. Cover the root over with one inch of the soil mix and one inch of mulch. Keep the soil moist, but not wet, and place the pot in a full sun to semi-shady area.
Horseradish Care in Pots
Now what? Horseradish care in pots is pretty nominal. Because pots tend to dry out more quickly than in gardens, keep a close eye on moisture; you may have to water more often than if the root was in the garden. Otherwise, the root should begin to leaf out. After 140-160 days, the taproot should be ready to harvest and you can make your own version of Mr. Heinz’s mom’s horseradish sauce.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月21日
Plant enthusiasts are often looking for a bit of tropical flare to add to the landscape or home interior. Spindle palms are about as tropical looking as you can have, along with ease of care and paced growth that makes them a trouble free addition. This endangered plant is commonly cultivated and performs well in a range of areas provided enough light and space are available and freezing temperatures are not an issue. Learn how to care for a spindle palm plant and invite exotic specimen to your home.
Spindle Palm Plants
Spindle palms (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii) are slow growing plants equally at home in containers or in-ground. The plants are native to the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean. Spindle palm plants are so called because of the ridges on the trunk that resemble a spindle and the shape, which is narrow at the base, widens and then constricts where fronds begin to grow.
The spindle palm is a true palm that may grow up to 25 feet in full sun conditions. The fronds are pinnately compound and up to10 feet long with a foot long petiole. This creates an arching effect that is elegant and pleasing as the leaves rustle in the wind. The trunk is light gray and swells midpoint, narrowing again into a slim, smooth green crown shaft from which leaves emerge. The creamy inflorescences are up to 2 feet long in clusters and become orange to red fleshy fruits just under an inch in diameter. In habitat, spindle palm growing conditions include sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. They often cluster together naturally in a grove. These plants look amazing in a similar form in the landscape or as stand-alone specimens in containers or garden beds. Many states do not have the correct spindle palm growing conditions for outdoor plants, but they can perform well potted in the home interior or greenhouse.
Growing Spindle Palm Trees
As an outdoor plant, spindle palms are recommended for United States Department of Agriculture zone 10 and down to 9b. In areas with minimal frost, plant them in a large container on casters so you can move the palm to a protected area if a cold snap threatens. Container plants require good drainage, bright light, consistent moisture and annual fertilizing. The nutrients most often needed in larger amounts are potassium and magnesium. Potassium deficiency will exhibit by large orange spots on the fronds. Good spindle palm tree care recommends an annual fertilization with a high potassium ratio once per year in early spring. In ground plants should be planted with top soil or peat moss added to the hole. Growing spindle palm trees in a bright western or southern edge of the house can help protect them and provide the lighting experience they crave. Install them 4 feet away from the house to give the fronds room to grow.
How to Care for a Spindle Palm
Spindle palms are remarkably unfussy. Once established, they can tolerate brief periods of drought and saline conditions. They are not technically self-cleaning, but grow so slowly you will only occasionally need to prune off dead fronds. Protection from frost is a large part of the plant’s care. Make a frame around the tree with chicken wire and cover with frost barrier fabric or even an old blanket when cold threatens. The plants also benefit from several inches of organic mulch around the root zone. Just be careful to leave a couple of inches around the stem free of mulch to prevent moisture build up and fungal issues. Water once per week during the growing season but, otherwise, this stoic plant can tolerate quite a bit of neglect and still stand elegant sentry to your landscape.
Spindle Palm Plants
Spindle palms (Hyophorbe verschaffeltii) are slow growing plants equally at home in containers or in-ground. The plants are native to the Mascarene Islands in the Indian Ocean. Spindle palm plants are so called because of the ridges on the trunk that resemble a spindle and the shape, which is narrow at the base, widens and then constricts where fronds begin to grow.
The spindle palm is a true palm that may grow up to 25 feet in full sun conditions. The fronds are pinnately compound and up to10 feet long with a foot long petiole. This creates an arching effect that is elegant and pleasing as the leaves rustle in the wind. The trunk is light gray and swells midpoint, narrowing again into a slim, smooth green crown shaft from which leaves emerge. The creamy inflorescences are up to 2 feet long in clusters and become orange to red fleshy fruits just under an inch in diameter. In habitat, spindle palm growing conditions include sandy, well-drained soil and full sun. They often cluster together naturally in a grove. These plants look amazing in a similar form in the landscape or as stand-alone specimens in containers or garden beds. Many states do not have the correct spindle palm growing conditions for outdoor plants, but they can perform well potted in the home interior or greenhouse.
Growing Spindle Palm Trees
As an outdoor plant, spindle palms are recommended for United States Department of Agriculture zone 10 and down to 9b. In areas with minimal frost, plant them in a large container on casters so you can move the palm to a protected area if a cold snap threatens. Container plants require good drainage, bright light, consistent moisture and annual fertilizing. The nutrients most often needed in larger amounts are potassium and magnesium. Potassium deficiency will exhibit by large orange spots on the fronds. Good spindle palm tree care recommends an annual fertilization with a high potassium ratio once per year in early spring. In ground plants should be planted with top soil or peat moss added to the hole. Growing spindle palm trees in a bright western or southern edge of the house can help protect them and provide the lighting experience they crave. Install them 4 feet away from the house to give the fronds room to grow.
How to Care for a Spindle Palm
Spindle palms are remarkably unfussy. Once established, they can tolerate brief periods of drought and saline conditions. They are not technically self-cleaning, but grow so slowly you will only occasionally need to prune off dead fronds. Protection from frost is a large part of the plant’s care. Make a frame around the tree with chicken wire and cover with frost barrier fabric or even an old blanket when cold threatens. The plants also benefit from several inches of organic mulch around the root zone. Just be careful to leave a couple of inches around the stem free of mulch to prevent moisture build up and fungal issues. Water once per week during the growing season but, otherwise, this stoic plant can tolerate quite a bit of neglect and still stand elegant sentry to your landscape.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月20日
Cacti are one of my favorite types of plants to grow inside all year and outside in summer. Unfortunately, the ambient air tends to stay moist during most seasons, a condition which makes cacti unhappy. Cactus potting soil can enhance drainage, increase evaporation and provide the dry conditions that cacti favor. What is cactus mix? This medium promotes optimum health for your cactus and mimics the natural gritty, arid and low nutrient soils they grow in naturally. You can purchase the mixture or learn how to make cactus soil yourself.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
Cactus Growing Conditions
The cacti families are succulents which store moisture in their pads, stems and trunks to use during dry and drought periods. They are generally found in desert conditions, although a few are tropical to sub-tropical. The plants favor sunny locations with plenty of heat, areas which have little to no rainfall and harsh soil. The majority of the family will make excellent houseplants due to their minimal needs and forgiving nature. These hardy plants do need water but not on the scale that the average plant requires. They are unique in form and flower with an ease of care that borders on neglect. They prefer a cactus growing mix that is partially sand or grit, some soil and a pinch of peat moss.
What is Cactus Mix?
Cactus potting soil is available in most nurseries and garden centers. It forms a better basis for cactus roots than regular soil and keeps roots and stems from sitting in moisture, which can cause rot. The right planting mix for cactus plants has superior drainage and will dry out quickly after watering. Cacti will harvest the moisture they need immediately to store in their bodies and excess water needs to be evaporated or drained to prevent fungal disease and rot. Commercial mixes use the classic elements these plants grow in naturally and add peat, which tends to hold moisture. Once the peat has dried out, it is hard to get it to absorb water again which makes the pot too dry. The glass really is half empty in this case because not enough water will stay in the medium for the plant to uptake. Homemade cactus growing mix can be tailor made for any type of cactus. Just like our personal tastes, one mix is not always right for every variety of cactus and growing region.
How to Make Cactus Soil
It is actually cheaper to make your own mixture. If you live in a very arid climate, you will want the addition of peat in your potted plants but be careful and don’t let it dry out completely. In most other areas and in the home interior, the plants are fine with one part washed sand, one part soil and one part gritty amendment such as pebbles or even pot shards. A very different mix combines five parts potting soil, two parts pumice and one part coir for a mixture that dries out evenly. You may have to tweak the soil recipe depending on where you are using your cactus growing mix and what variety of succulent you have.
How to Know if You Need Different Soil
Sadly, by the time you notice a decline in the health of your cactus and think of repotting it in a different planting mix for cactus plants, it may be too late. A better option is to choose right the first time. Determine where your cactus naturally occurs. If it is a desert species, use the simplest blend of clean fine sand, grit and soil. If you have a tropical species, add peat. Plants such as Euphorbia are remarkably adaptable to almost any soil and can even thrive in dry potting soil. Give the plants a hand by choosing unglazed containers that evaporate excess moisture and watering deeply only when the soil is completely dry but not crusty.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月15日
Astragalus tragacantha ssp. vicentinus - is one of the rare plants to be found in Cape St. Vincent Natural Park (Parque Nacional de Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina) in the Algarve region of Portugal.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
Close-up the flower and leaves of the plant reveal that it is a member of the Pea family of plants
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
Close-up the flower and leaves of the plant reveal that it is a member of the Pea family of plants
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月10日
Aralia is a striking, multi-stemmed member of the Araliaceae family, a huge family that consists of more than 70 species. With so many types of aralia from which to choose, plant lovers can enjoy this plant in a variety of forms, including deciduous and evergreen shrubs and trees, and beautiful indoor plants. Read on for more aralia plant information, including growing aralias and care of aralias.
Aralia Plant Information
There are a various types of Aralia to choose from. Some of these include: California spikenard (A. californica) is one of the most popular types of aralias. Also known as elk clover, this West Coast native reaches heights and widths of 4 to 10 feet. This species is marked by its spiky white blooms and long, divided leaves that turn a warm golden-yellow in autumn. California spikenard is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Angelica tree (Aralia elata or Aralia chinesis) also displays long, divided leaves measuring up to 3 feet. This colorful variety includes species with leaves that are edged in creamy white or gold. Showy white blooms appear in mid to late summer. This plant is suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. Fatsia japonica (A. sieboldii) is an upright, bushy plant with large, hand-shaped leaves of glossy green. It produces attractive white blooms in fall and winter. This tropical shrub makes an excellent houseplant, reaching heights and spreads of 3 to 6 feet. It prefers warmer climates of zones 8 through 10. Devil’s walking stick (A. spinosa) is also known as Hercules’ club. This variety, which reaches heights of 10 to 20 feet, is a hardy, tropical-looking plant with spiny stems and umbrellas of huge, spiny leaves. White flowers appear above the leaves in mid to late summer. This deciduous species is suitable for zones 4 through 9. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) is a versatile indoor ornamental plant that includes approximately six species, all valued for their luxurious foliage. This plant can grow to an impressive size of 6 to 8 feet, or it can be trimmed to maintain a smaller size. This plant is suitable for outdoors in the warm climates of zones 10 and above.
Aralia Plant Care
Aralias plants prefer full sun or partial shade and they require well-drained soil. The plants perform best in a sheltered location, as harsh winds can burn the foliage. Regular water is needed, especially during hot, dry weather. However, the soil should dry out between waterings, as the plant won’t tolerate soggy soil. Houseplants grown indoors generally require less frequent irrigation during the winter months – often only once or twice per month.
Keep the plant healthy by feeding it a slow-release fertilizer every other month throughout spring and summer. Aralia requires minimal pruning, but outdoor aralias may need regular removal of suckers to keep the plant from spreading.
Aralia Plant Information
There are a various types of Aralia to choose from. Some of these include: California spikenard (A. californica) is one of the most popular types of aralias. Also known as elk clover, this West Coast native reaches heights and widths of 4 to 10 feet. This species is marked by its spiky white blooms and long, divided leaves that turn a warm golden-yellow in autumn. California spikenard is suitable for growing in USDA plant hardiness zones 3 through 8. Angelica tree (Aralia elata or Aralia chinesis) also displays long, divided leaves measuring up to 3 feet. This colorful variety includes species with leaves that are edged in creamy white or gold. Showy white blooms appear in mid to late summer. This plant is suitable for growing in zones 4 through 9. Fatsia japonica (A. sieboldii) is an upright, bushy plant with large, hand-shaped leaves of glossy green. It produces attractive white blooms in fall and winter. This tropical shrub makes an excellent houseplant, reaching heights and spreads of 3 to 6 feet. It prefers warmer climates of zones 8 through 10. Devil’s walking stick (A. spinosa) is also known as Hercules’ club. This variety, which reaches heights of 10 to 20 feet, is a hardy, tropical-looking plant with spiny stems and umbrellas of huge, spiny leaves. White flowers appear above the leaves in mid to late summer. This deciduous species is suitable for zones 4 through 9. Ming aralia (Polyscias fruticosa) is a versatile indoor ornamental plant that includes approximately six species, all valued for their luxurious foliage. This plant can grow to an impressive size of 6 to 8 feet, or it can be trimmed to maintain a smaller size. This plant is suitable for outdoors in the warm climates of zones 10 and above.
Aralia Plant Care
Aralias plants prefer full sun or partial shade and they require well-drained soil. The plants perform best in a sheltered location, as harsh winds can burn the foliage. Regular water is needed, especially during hot, dry weather. However, the soil should dry out between waterings, as the plant won’t tolerate soggy soil. Houseplants grown indoors generally require less frequent irrigation during the winter months – often only once or twice per month.
Keep the plant healthy by feeding it a slow-release fertilizer every other month throughout spring and summer. Aralia requires minimal pruning, but outdoor aralias may need regular removal of suckers to keep the plant from spreading.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月08日
Astragalus tragacantha ssp. vicentinus - is one of the rare plants to be found in Cape St. Vincent Natural Park (Parque Nacional de Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina) in the Algarve region of Portugal.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
Sometimes known as Astragalus massiliensis this plant is recorded from southern France, Northern Spain and other parts of the western Mediterranean region. It is a coastal species and grows in sandy soils among scrub.
At Cape St. Vincent this plant is found along the roadsides towards the lighthouse. It is an uncomfortable candidate for photography as it grows on stony ground among thorny shrubs and plants. It is also becoming harder to find as much of its habitat is being taken over as alternative car parking areas for visitors to this iconic part of Europe. Cape St. Vincent is Europe's most south-westerly point and attracts tourists by the coachload in the summer months.
Astragalus tragacantha flowers in March and early April. It forms low-growing pincushion-shaped plants. The flowers appear white from a distance, but on closer inspection are tinged with purple.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Los gatos orinan, escarban e incluso rompen plantas.
Hacer una especie de barricada con ramitas clavadas que los entorpezca y disuada. Las ramas de rosales tienen pinchos. El Tojo o Aliaga (Ulex parviflorus) es efectivo aunque tengas que cambiarlos por otros cuando estén secos y feos, sigue pinchando.
Otra opción es cerrar bien con un "pastor eléctrico" la zona por la que entran con varias líneas de cable de forma que tengan que tocarlo si quieren pasar. Les dará un calambrazo desagradable pero no peligroso. Después de una temporada prueba a desconectarlos pero sin quitar los cables y observa si entran. Normalmente no lo hacen porque el simple hecho de ver los cables es suficiente.
Puedes repartir las cáscaras de naranjas, limones, mandarinas u otros cítricos por los lugares del jardín donde suelen escarbar y en cuanto huelan ese olor ácido ni se acercarán. El problema es que el olor les dura 2 ó 3 días y tendrías que cambiarlas a menudo, además de que puede quedar un poco antiestético un jardín con cáscaras.
Poner una botella de agua transparente con agua; los gatos no se acercan porque les asusta el reflejo que la luz solar o artificial hace con la botella de agua.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月07日
Most gardeners hate Ground Elder because its creeping underground stems (known as rhizomes) spread so rapidly, often producing dense patches on roadside verges, in churchyards and on riverbanks. Once established this perennial plant is very difficult to eradicate.
Identification
Although Ground Elder can grow up to a metre tall, half that height is more normal. The hollow stems are grooved but hairless and the leaves are darkish green in early springtime, turning yellower in summer. Flat-topped umbels of white flowers bearing a passing resemblance to the flowers of an Elder tree are the origin of this plant's common name..
Distribution
Found throughout Britain and Ireland, Ground Elder occurs also in most parts of mainland Europe and in Asia. As an introduced alien species this plant is a nuisance weed in North America, New Zealand and Australia.
It is considered possible that the Romans may have introduced ground elder to Britain; a clue as to why they might have done so can be found in one of its many other common names: Gout Weed!
Habitat
Ground Elder favours damp soil and shady locations, but it copes well with soil disturbance and so is often associated with waste land and the margins of rubbish tips.
Blooming Times
The first flowers appear in May and are usually past their (unspectacular) best by the end of July; however, cutting before the flowering season is ineffective as a control mechanism because this plant is propagated mainly via its spreading roots; leave even the tiniest piece in the ground and it will quickly give rise to a new plant.
Uses
Even Ground Elder has its uses. At one time this common wildflower was grown as a pot herb, and it was also used in herbal remedies for arthritis and gout.
Identification
Although Ground Elder can grow up to a metre tall, half that height is more normal. The hollow stems are grooved but hairless and the leaves are darkish green in early springtime, turning yellower in summer. Flat-topped umbels of white flowers bearing a passing resemblance to the flowers of an Elder tree are the origin of this plant's common name..
Distribution
Found throughout Britain and Ireland, Ground Elder occurs also in most parts of mainland Europe and in Asia. As an introduced alien species this plant is a nuisance weed in North America, New Zealand and Australia.
It is considered possible that the Romans may have introduced ground elder to Britain; a clue as to why they might have done so can be found in one of its many other common names: Gout Weed!
Habitat
Ground Elder favours damp soil and shady locations, but it copes well with soil disturbance and so is often associated with waste land and the margins of rubbish tips.
Blooming Times
The first flowers appear in May and are usually past their (unspectacular) best by the end of July; however, cutting before the flowering season is ineffective as a control mechanism because this plant is propagated mainly via its spreading roots; leave even the tiniest piece in the ground and it will quickly give rise to a new plant.
Uses
Even Ground Elder has its uses. At one time this common wildflower was grown as a pot herb, and it was also used in herbal remedies for arthritis and gout.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月05日
- Nombre científico o latino: Rosa rugosa
- Nombre común o vulgar: Rosa rugosa
- Familia: Rosaceae (Rosáceas).
- Origen: China, Corea, Japón.
- Arbusto caducifolio redondeado que oscila entre 1.5 y 2 m. de altura.
- Tallo cubierto de espinas con hojas de superficie rugosa.
- Ramas tomentosas, con numerosas espinas.
- Hojas compuestas, de unos 18 cm de longitud, formadas por 5 folíolos elípticos, coriáceos y rugosos.
- Flores solitarias, blancas o rosa-púrpuras, de 8-9 cm de diámetro, muy olorosas.
- El fruto redondo y rojizo se semeja a un tomatito.
- Algunas variedades seleccionadas son fragantes, algunas tienen flores dobles desde blanco hasta rojo y púrpura, pasando por rosado. Todas tienen grandes frutos rojos.
- No se utiliza tanto como se debería, dadas sus cualidades resistentes, su adaptación a la costa y su disfrute de suelos arenosos, que lo hacen idóneo para setos y divisiones al lado del mar.
- Especie de gran valor decorativo por sus flores y sus llamativos frutos, permaneciendo éstos durante largo tiempo en la planta después de su maduración.
- Generalmente se emplea en jardinería para ser plantada de forma aislada o formando pequeños grupos en parques y jardines. Ideal para setos libres.
- Es uno de los rosales cultivados más ancestrales.
- Luz: pleno sol.
- Poco exigente respecto a las características del suelo.
- Ocasionalmente, quitar las ramas viejas en primavera para rejuvenecer la planta.
- Siembra: estratificación previa de las semillas en frío de 3º ó 4º C.
- Este gran rosal arbustivo de crecimiento suelto y amplio alcanza una altura y una envergadura de 1,5 m.
- Sus grandes flores blancas, semidobles y fragantes, aparecen a principios de verano; la floración se prolonga durante todo el verano.
- Los pétalos son sedosos y ligeramente arrugados.
- Los escaramujos de color rojo anaranjado no maduran tan fácilmente como en el similar 'Alba'.
- Al igual que casi todos los derivados de R. rugosa, tiene tallos muy espinosos y las hojas tienen nerviaciones profundas.
- Esta especie de deliciosa fragancia, denominada según el jardín de rosas de idéntico nombre que se halla en el sur de París, creado por Jules Gravereaux, florece durante toda la temporada y es mejor plantarla en pequeños grupos.
- De crecimiento robusto, puede alcanzar una altura de 2,4 m, e idéntica envergadura; se cubre de grandes flores semidobles de color carmesí purpúreo aterciopelado y fuerte aroma.
- Cada flor mide 10 cm de diámetro y nace en medio del abundante y típico follaje de esta especie.
- Esta variedad destaca notablemente por el color vino de sus flores.
- Este rosal arbustivo, también conocido como 'Frau Dagmar Hartopp', es más compacto que otros, por lo que resulta muy adecuado para setos con el atractivo adicional de sus escaramujos de color rojo brillante, semejantes a pequeños tomates, que aparecen durante el verano y el otoño.
- Las hojas son de color verde manzana con nerviaciones grabadas. Las plantas responden bien a un recorte en invierno.
- Su floración se inicia a mediados del verano y dura largo tiempo.
- Las flores sencillas miden hasta 8 cm de diámetro y son de color rosa con estambres dorados, primero de forma acopada y después más aplanadas.
- Las hojas en otoño tienen un bello tono amarillo dorado.
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Dummer. ゛☀
2017年08月04日
Basic file parts of fertilizer
The three basic elements of any fertilizer are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K), with each element serving different purposes. Nitrogen increases growth of leaves and stems (growth above ground), Phosphorus encourages healthy root growth and growth of fruits and flowers, Potassium promotes overall plant health. Different ratios of NPK are being used for different trees at different times of year, which is very important to take into account when fertilizing Bonsai.
When should I apply fertilizer?
Fertilize during the entire growth season of the tree; from early spring till mid autumn. Indoor trees can be fertilized around the year. Although sometimes disputed, do not fertilize repotted trees for about a month; also do not fertilize sick trees.
Which fertilizer to choose?
It is very important to choose the right fertilizer for your Bonsai plants: during the early spring time use a fertilizer with a relatively high Nitrogen content (something like NPK 10:6:6) to boost the tree’s growth. During the summer use a more balanced fertilizer (like NPK 6:6:6) while during the autumn use a fertilizer to harden off the tree for the coming winter (like NPK 3:6:6).
A few exceptions are worth pointing out: to encourage Bonsai to flower use a fertilizer with a high Phosphorous (P) content (like NPK 6:10:6) and for older trees you might want to use fertilizer with a slightly lower Nitrogen (N) content or reduce the quantity of fertilizer applied.
Although “Bonsai fertilizer” is fertilizer like any other, buying from (online) Bonsai shops will help you find the right NPK values. Any fertilizer with the right NPK value is perfectly fine. You can choose to use either liquid or solid fertilizer; which doesn't matter much, just follow the application guidelines as stated on the product’s packaging.
How to fertilize Bonsai trees?
Feed your Bonsai using the quantities and frequency as stated on the fertilizer’s packaging. You can choose to reduce the recommended quantity slightly for trees that are not in training anymore, to balance their growth instead of stimulating it. When using solid fertilizer it helps to use fertilizer covers, which make sure the fertilizer stays in place. Never overfeed your trees, as this will have serious consequences for their health.
The three basic elements of any fertilizer are Nitrogen (N), Phosphorous (P) and Potassium (K), with each element serving different purposes. Nitrogen increases growth of leaves and stems (growth above ground), Phosphorus encourages healthy root growth and growth of fruits and flowers, Potassium promotes overall plant health. Different ratios of NPK are being used for different trees at different times of year, which is very important to take into account when fertilizing Bonsai.
When should I apply fertilizer?
Fertilize during the entire growth season of the tree; from early spring till mid autumn. Indoor trees can be fertilized around the year. Although sometimes disputed, do not fertilize repotted trees for about a month; also do not fertilize sick trees.
Which fertilizer to choose?
It is very important to choose the right fertilizer for your Bonsai plants: during the early spring time use a fertilizer with a relatively high Nitrogen content (something like NPK 10:6:6) to boost the tree’s growth. During the summer use a more balanced fertilizer (like NPK 6:6:6) while during the autumn use a fertilizer to harden off the tree for the coming winter (like NPK 3:6:6).
A few exceptions are worth pointing out: to encourage Bonsai to flower use a fertilizer with a high Phosphorous (P) content (like NPK 6:10:6) and for older trees you might want to use fertilizer with a slightly lower Nitrogen (N) content or reduce the quantity of fertilizer applied.
Although “Bonsai fertilizer” is fertilizer like any other, buying from (online) Bonsai shops will help you find the right NPK values. Any fertilizer with the right NPK value is perfectly fine. You can choose to use either liquid or solid fertilizer; which doesn't matter much, just follow the application guidelines as stated on the product’s packaging.
How to fertilize Bonsai trees?
Feed your Bonsai using the quantities and frequency as stated on the fertilizer’s packaging. You can choose to reduce the recommended quantity slightly for trees that are not in training anymore, to balance their growth instead of stimulating it. When using solid fertilizer it helps to use fertilizer covers, which make sure the fertilizer stays in place. Never overfeed your trees, as this will have serious consequences for their health.
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