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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Miss Chen
A greenhouse is not only the perfect environment for many plants, it can also act as a safe haven for pests such as mice. With the warmth and coziness of the greenhouse -- along with potting soil, growing fruits, seeds and plant debris -- mice who discover it find easy food and lodging. Incorporate several control measures so your greenhouse does not become the next bed and breakfast for the local mouse population.
Step 1 Remove wood, debris and junk piles that are stored near the greenhouse. If you must keep these in place, elevate the piles 12 inches off the ground. Clean up the garden growing next to the greenhouse, removing all plant debris that can act as safe hiding places for mice. Prune shrubs growing next to the greenhouse so the branches are at least 12 inches off the ground. Seal trashcans and take in pet food after your pets finish eating. Don't scatter bird seed and breadcrumbs for wildlife. Step 2 Clean up plant debris inside the greenhouse. Remove decaying matter, including fruit droppings, from potted plants. Prune any seed pods that can be a food source. Store bone meal, bulbs and seeds in rodent-proof containers. Step 3 Examine the greenhouse for openings that allow mice entrance. Seal cracks and holes in the foundation and replace any missing or broken windowpanes or doors. For a quick fix, crumple up aluminum foil and stuff it in the cracks and holes, or cover them with a fine wire mesh. Step 4 Open the door and turn on a high-frequency sound device -- which is sold for this purpose -- to scare the mice from the greenhouse. Open windows and vents without screens so they find an easy exit. Keep it on for several hours, and check the next day for signs of mice. Repeat as necessary. Step 5 Set up snap-style mousetraps, if you don't mind killing the mice, using a bait such as peanut butter. Set the traps along the floor of the greenhouse where you see mouse droppings and other signs of mice. Set the traps near their favorite potted plants. Check the traps each day. Discard the dead mice and reset until the last nuisance mouse is caught.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Miss Chen
Broad-spectrum insecticides or pesticides are formulated to kill many kinds of pests with the use of one product. Concentrated products are much less expensive to use than non-concentrated products and can be applied with a compression garden sprayer. Spray tree branches with an insecticide or pesticide when little wind is present; otherwise, the spray will drift. Wear the correct protective gear to prevent the product from getting on your skin and causing irritation.
Step 1 Put on a long-sleeved shirt, long pants, socks, enclosed-toe shoes, safety glasses and waterproof gloves. Wear a hardhat or other protective headgear that is waterproof. Pesticide and insecticide chemicals cause irritation to skin and mucous membranes. So all areas of your body should be protected from them. Step 2 Open the lid of a compression garden sprayer counterclockwise and remove it. Add water from a garden hose to the sprayer tank's one-half full mark. Step 3 Add pesticide or insecticide concentrate to the sprayer tank by using a plastic measuring spoon and by following the amount to use listed on the pesticide's or insecticide's label directions. Step 4 Pick up the sprayer tank, and swirl it in a circle while filling the tank to its full mark with water from the garden hose.
Step 5 Screw the lid clockwise onto the garden sprayer. Pump the handle on top of the sprayer. Pumping the handle adds air pressure to the sprayer's contents. Step 6 Walk to the tree that needs the pesticide or insecticide treatment. Stand just beyond the tree's drip line to avoid chemical runoff onto yourself. The drip line is below the tips of the tree's outermost branches. Squeeze the application wand on the sprayer to dispense the pesticide. Step 7 Spray the tree's canopy from its highest point, including all branches and leaves, to the areas directly in front of you. Apply the spray to all sides of branches and leaves. Step 8 Move to one side, and spray the tree in the same manner as before to wet all its surfaces thoroughly with the spray. Continue to move and spray until you are standing at the point where you started spraying the tree. The starting point of coverage should be visible by the spray's moisture on branches and leaves. Step 9 Walk around the tree slowly as you spray the tree's entire trunk, starting at the top from which the lowest branches attach and working down to the ground.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月09日
Miss Chen
During spring, yellow jackets build nests in a variety of holes and gaps in the ground, rocks, buildings and even trees. Throughout summer and fall, these stinging insects, also known as "meat bees" scavenge for food at barbecues, in trash cans and other places to feed themselves and other members of their hive. Like paper wasps, yellow jackets are a social wasp, but unlike paper wasps, yellow jackets are more apt to sting. Unlike honey bees, yellow jackets can sting more than once. A few simple practices will eradicate yellow jacket attractants, preventing the insects from swarming on or around your patio.
Step 1 Cover food trays with plastic wrap when eating outdoors on your patio. Keep the grill cover closed while the food is cooking. Never leave food sitting on an uncovered grill. Take all food trays, plates and cups indoors after eating. Step 2 Pour any unfinished drinks down an indoor drain. Do not leave any cups or glasses containing liquid unattended on the patio. Avoid pouring drinks on the ground next to the patio as the resulting puddles and residue will attract the yellow jackets. Wash the residue from spilled drinks off the patio's surface with water. Step 3 Discard any food scraps in trash bags, keeping the patio free from food debris. Pick ripe fruit and vegetables growing in your yard as soon as possible, cleaning up any produce sitting on the ground as well as on the trees and plants.
Step 4 Tie trash bags tightly closed. Store the bag in a trash can. Keep the trash can's lid closed completely to avoid attracting the yellow jackets to the area. Position the trash can as far away from the patio as possible. Wash any spills or drips from the can's surface as they occur. Step 5 Check water spigots located nearby the patio for leaks. Fix any leaking spigots to eradicate resulting puddles of fresh water. Turn off the spigots completely after use. Step 6 Put away any garden hoses or sprinklers immediately after use. Never leave leaking sprinklers or hoses nearby the patio to eliminate sources of fresh water for the yellow jackets. Step 7 Place yellow jacket traps, sold at home and garden stores, around your yard to attract and capture these pests. Position the traps 40 to 50 feet away from the patio and any other high traffic areas to allure yellow jackets away from these functional areas.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Many cacti can be successful houseplants. All are succulent plants, and they have two basic kinds of growth. Forest cacti are epiphytes that grow in trees and have flattened, green, leafy-looking stems with few or no spines. Desert cacti, those of dry, hot climates, have thick stems and usually many spines. They can be globular, cylindrical, columnar or have paddle-shaped stems. An indoor forest cactus requires care different from the care an indoor desert cactus needs.
Growing Medium
All cacti require very good drainage, but the growing medium they need varies. A forest cactus such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), which is hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 12, needs open, well-aerated soil that is rich in organic matter. A suitable growing medium for it contains 1 part commercial potting mix, 1 part perlite and 2 parts peat moss. A basic mixture for a spiny, desert cactus ensures good drainage and a high mineral content. Mix 1 part coarse sand, 5 parts perlite and 4 parts of a good-quality soilless potting mix for the spiny, desert cactus. Use pots with bottom drainage holes, and avoid overpotting by using a pot size 1 or 2 inches larger than its plant's diameter. Water Needs
Perhaps the least understood part of cactus care is proper watering. All kinds of cacti are susceptible to rot if their roots are constantly wet, but they still need regular watering while growing in spring and summer. Allow an indoor forest cactus' growing medium surface to dry before watering it, and allow a desert cactus' top 1 to 2 inches of growing medium to dry before you water it. When you water the growing medium, do so thoroughly, to the point water runs out the pot's bottom drainage holes. If the plant is in a sunny site and in a small pot, it may need water every few days. Reduce watering in fall and winter, perhaps to every few weeks. If a saucer is under your cactus' pot, don't allow water to sit in it. Light Requirements
Forest cacti require bright, indirect light and can scorch in direct sunlight. Desert cacti tolerate full sun to partial shade, depending on the species. Most densely spined cacti grow best in full sun, with their many spines providing built-in shade. Keep a sun-loving desert cactus in front of a window that faces west, south or east so the plant receives some direct sunlight every day. If the desert cactus has grown in partial shade, expose it gradually to sunlight or else it can receive a sunburn. Fertilizer and Pruning
A cactus needs fertilizer regularly during its growing season, and a fertilizer low in nitrogen and high in phosphorus promotes blooming. Use a water-soluble fertilizer such as 15-30-15 at about one-half strength once each month from April to September. Mix 1 1/2 teaspoon of that fertilizer in 1 gallon of water, and water your cactus' growing medium with the mixture until it flows from the pot's bottom drainage holes. A cactus can be pruned to remove pads, offsets or branches to keep it a certain size or to propagate it. Use pruning shears that were disinfected with a cloth dipped in rubbing alcohol to prevent plant diseases, and use disinfected kitchen tongs to handle a spiny cactus. Winter Dormancy Temperature
Many desert cacti need a dormant period during winter to grow and bloom well the next year. In late fall, place a dormant desert cactus in an area such as an unheated porch or bedroom that is about 45 to 55 degrees Fahrenheit. The location should have light conditions similar to those the plant is accustomed. Although many cacti are hardy outdoors year-round in USDA zones 9 through 11, hardiness varies greatly among cacti species. For instance, prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) is hardy in USDA zones 3b through 11. Diseases and Pests
Most problems associated with houseplant cacti result from overwatering, which causes fungal and bacterial rots. Prevent those issues by using well-draining soil mixes and appropriate watering practices. Sometimes cacti are infested with insects such as scales and mealybugs. Those insects are brown to white, lay flat on a plant's surface and feed on the plant's sap. As soon as you observe insects on your indoor cactus, remove them by using a cotton swab that was dipped in rubbing alcohol.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
How to Keep a Cactus Alive. If you seem to lack a green thumb, you are not alone. We've all killed a cactus or three at some point. Common cactus ailments include rot, fungus, dull complexion, wilting, and a stunted growth due to poor light, poor soil, neglect, or too much water. If your cactus is about to kick the bucket, here's how to bring it back to life without too much effort on your part.
Step 1 Determine what kind of cactus you have. Go online or find a book on common cacti and compare pictures and descriptions to figure out which cactus you are dealing with before you begin the rescue mission. Step 2 Learn the basics. There is a plethora of pertinent information on cacti growing, but unless you want to make cactus gardening a major hobby, focus on the basics. This means learning what kind of cactus you have, which soil it prefers, and how to pot, repot, and prune your cactus. Step 3 Check the soil. Most cactus plants need sandy soil and lots of direct sunlight to thrive. Buy a special cactus mix of potting soil, or create your own layering gravel, sand, and all-purpose potting soil. Step 4 Relocate the dying cactus to a warm, sunny location away from drafts or heat sources. If it still does a perk up, it's time for a transplant.
Step 5 Repot your cactus into a larger, terra cotta pot that is fairly shallow and wide with excellent drainage. As you transplant the cactus, prune any dead or wilting roots with sharp scissors but be careful not to trim too much at once or you'll make the cactus more vulnerable to root rot and fungus. Step 6 Gently wipe the dust off the cactus with a damp paper towel. If it's too spiny for this, fill a bowl with lukewarm water and a dab of dishwashing liquid and swish the cactus gently to get rid of an accumulated dirt or dust. Let the cactus recover on a paper towel and repot in a few days, and the cactus should bounce back within a week or two.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
When you transplant a spiny cactus such as Easter lily cactus (Echinopsis oxygona), hardy to U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8 through 11, safety is a consideration. For small cactuses, the best handling tool is a pair of kitchen tongs. Leather gloves give some protection, but spines easily penetrate cloth gloves. Because cactuses have succulent stems and roots, they need different transplanting methods from those used for leafy plants.
Digging Garden Cactus Transplant garden cactuses during warm months rather than in winter. Wear leather gloves. First, mark the cactus' south side with a small paint spot. Dig around the plant about 6 inches out from the stem. With the shovel under the cactus, sever the bottom roots. Gently lever the cactus loose. For cylindrically shaped cactuses such as golden barrel (Echinocactus grusonii), hardy in USDA zones 8 through 11, put a loop of rope or hose around the stem for a handle. For columnar cactuses, use a strip of blanket or burlap for broader support so the stems don't break. Lift the cactus from the hole. Moving and Transplanting Cactus Remove the soil from the roots. Trim away damaged roots with pruning shears dipped in rubbing alcohol to sterilize them. The roots need to heal, so put the cactus on its side in the shade for a few days. Dig a hole in the plant's new location slightly larger than the existing roots. Place the cactus in the hole, putting the marked side to the south. Gently work fill dirt around the roots to replant it. Keep the soil level the same. Water the cactus thoroughly. For columnar cactuses such as Mexican fence post (Stenocereus marginatus), hardy in USDA zones 9b through 11, stake the plant if it is more than 5 feet tall until it has rooted back in.
Unpotting Cactuses When the roots come through the drainage holes or the cactus stem fills the pot, transplant it. In northern areas, transplant in the spring. For the arid Southwest, transplant in spring, summer or early fall. The new pot should be about 2 inches larger than the old one. Handle the cactus with kitchen tongs. If the roots won't slide out of the pot, lay the potted cactus on its side on a hard surface and tap the pot. Rotate it a quarter turn and tap again, repeating until the cactus is loose. After unpotting the cactus, remove the old soil. Trim the roots with pruning shears dipped in rubbing alcohol. Repotting Container Plants Center the cactus in the new pot, keeping it at the same soil level. Add cactus potting mix, occasionally shaking the pot to settle the soil. Don't water it for a few days so the roots can heal. Then water the pot thoroughly until water comes out the drainage holes. These directions apply to cactuses in arid regions. Tropical soft-stemmed cactuses such as Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata), hardy in USDA zones 10 through 12, bloom best when potbound. Repot them approximately every three years right after they flower in late winter, using a mixture of 1 part perlite, 1 part potting mix and 2 parts peat moss.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
"How to prune a cactus" sounds like a lead-in to a bad joke, the answer to which would be: "Carefully!" But caution is indeed the watchword when working with cacti (Cactaceae), since their protective needles can be very painful if they find their way into your skin. Fortunately, this is a very infrequent task for your to-do list: Unless seriously diseased or damaged, cacti can typically go for years without being trimmed. The main purpose for occasional trimming of healthy cactus plants is to minimize their susceptibility to disease and optimize their appearance.
Step 1 Cover yourself completely with protective clothing when pruning large cactus plants outdoors. Wear long sleeves and pants and put on heavy leather gloves and shoes or boots. For added protection, cover your face with a bandana, wear a hat and don plastic safety goggles to protect your eyes. When cutting small, indoor plants, such extensive measures generally are not necessary; protective gloves are usually sufficient. Step 2 Cover the ground around the cactus you are pruning with an old sheet, carpet scraps or newspapers. This collects the needles and smaller pieces of the plant as you prune it and keeps them contained for easier disposal. Place a large trash can and shovel nearby to dispose of larger pieces of the cactus. Step 3 Mix a solution of 1 part household bleach to 3 parts water and submerge the blades of your pruning tools in it for five minutes. Then let them air-dry. Sterilize your tools as you move from one plant to another to reduce the risk of spreading disease. Step 4 Cut back to a new pad when trimming prickly pear cactus (genus Opuntia), U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 8b to 9b. Use a hand saw or loppers to cut off sections of the pads you want to remove, until you have removed them. You may want to use long-handled tongs to grasp cut pads and bring them down in a controlled manner. Finally, according to Joe Marcus of the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, make a clean cut a few inches above the stem where you will make your final cut. This prevents the stem from splitting.
Step 5 Prune columnar cacti, such as saguaro (Cereus giganteus) or organpipe (Stenocereus thurberi), USDA zones 9a to 10a, with either the hand saw or garden lopper. Cut off knobs or offshoot columns to prune back weak or discolored sections of the cactus. To thin out an overgrown plant, cut off one or more entire columns at the base of the cactus. Step 6 Discard the pruned pieces of the cactus carefully. Use the shovel to scoop up larger pieces and carry them to the trash can for disposal. Carefully gather up the corners or edges of the ground cover containing the smaller pieces and carry the entire bundle to the trash can.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Christmas cactus plants (Schlumbergera bridgesii) are epiphytes that grow naturally in trees in Brazil. They absorb moisture and nutrients from debris that gets caught in the tree branches. Commonly grown as houseplants, they can also be grown outdoors in pots in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, as long as they are brought indoors if the weather gets too cold. They can survive temperatures down to 20 degrees Fahrenheit, but their stems will be severely damaged.
Light and Temperature Place indoor Christmas cactus plants in bright, indirect light. Right next to a south-, west- or east-facing window is ideal. Direct sunlight will cause these plants to turn yellow or develop a reddish blush and the stems may droop. The flowers will be a lighter color in direct sunlight, and they will fade and die more quickly. Outdoor Christmas cactus plants can be grown where they get direct sunlight only in the morning, dappled shade all day or in bright shade. Ideally, bring them indoors when temperatures drop below 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Give Christmas cactus plants 14 hours of complete darkness every night and maintain temperatures between 60 and 68 degrees Fahrenheit beginning around mid-September for a good show of flowers around Christmas. Flower buds should be set after four weeks. After the flower buds form, there is no need to provide complete darkness at night, but do not allow the temperature to rise above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. If it gets too hot, Christmas cactus plants drop their flowers. Moisture Requirements Water Christmas cactus plants when the top 1 inch of the potting mix feels dry. Pour room-temperature water evenly over the potting mix until it drains from the bottom of the container. Cold, fresh tap water could chill the roots. Avoid splashing water on the stems as this could lead to fungal disease.
After the Christmas cactus forms flower buds, water it when the top of the mix just begins to dry. The top of the potting mix should not become completely dry before watering. If the potting mix dries out during bloom, the cactus may drop its flowers. Christmas cactus should never be planted in the ground or in garden soil. Water will not drain away from the roots quickly enough and they will develop root rot. Fertilizer Requirements Give Christmas cactus plants fertilizer every four weeks from late winter when it begins to put on new growth to late summer. Water-soluble fertilizer with a ratio of 20-20-20 or 20-10-20 that contains trace elements is ideal for these cactuses. Mix the fertilizer into water at only half the recommended rate. A common recommended dilution rate is 1 teaspoon of fertilizer per quart of water, but this varies, depending on the fertilizer formula. Therefore, for Christmas cactus, use only ½ teaspoon per quart of water. Also, give the Christmas cactus 1 teaspoon of Epsom salts dissolved in 1 gallon of water every four weeks but not at the same time as the fertilizer. Give them the Epsom salts one to two weeks after the fertilizer. Do not provide fertilizer or Epsom salts after late summer. It will inhibit flowering. Proper Pruning Pinch off one segment from each stem in late spring to encourage the Christmas cactus to grow more branches which will result in more flowers. Wash your hands before pinching. There could be bacteria on your hands that could cause stem rot. At the beginning of September, pinch off any segments at the ends of the stems that are less than ½ inch long. They are not mature enough to produce flowers. The longer segments left behind will produce flowers. Disease Susceptibility Root rot is the most prevalent disease in Christmas cactuses. Proper watering and potting mix can prevent this disease. The first symptom of root rot is wilting. As the roots die, they are unable to supply the Christmas cactus with moisture and nutrients. The stems may also turn yellow or develop red edges as the disease progresses. If the cactus has just begun to wilt, it may be possible to save it. Remove the cactus from its pot and examine the roots. If more than half the roots are dark and mushy or wiry, the plant should be thrown away. When most of the roots are still white, firm and healthy, it could be saved. Cut the rotten, dark mushy or wiry roots off at the base with disinfected scissors. Disinfect the scissors with household disinfectant, rinse and dry them. Repot the cactus in a new clay pot with a drainage hole with fresh potting soil and do not water it for one week after repotting. Problematic Pests Mealybugs and scale insects are the most prevalent pests of Christmas cactus. They are slow-moving or immobile insects that pierce the stem sections and suck plant juices out. Mealybugs are small, flat, oval bugs that are white and mealy looking. Scale insects are flat and usually tan, but they can be other colors. As soon as they are detected, use a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol to wipe them off or scrape them off with your thumbnail or an old toothbrush. Check Christmas cactus plants carefully for these pests before bringing them in if they have been outdoors.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Flaunting 1-foot night-blooming flowers, dragon fruit plants (Hylocereus and Selenicereus spp.) more closely resemble the princess in a fairy tale than the monster. The "dragon" in their name actually refers to the dark pink, yellow, or green scales which protect their fruits. With white, pink, red or magenta pulp dotted with black seeds, those fruits ripen one to two months after the plants bloom. Climbing cacti with aerial roots, dragon fruits can live outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 12 and be cultivated as houseplants elsewhere.
Cut and Dried Dragon fruit plants are usually started from cuttings rather than seeds, since cuttings flower more quickly. Select three or four sections of stem that are 6 to 15 inches long. When severing the sections from the mother plant, cut at a slight slant. Allow the cuttings to lie, uncovered, in a cool, dark place for a week until their cut edges have hardened. Then insert the bases of the cuttings about 2 inches deep into a 1-gallon pot filled with slightly damp cactus soil, packing the soil tightly around them until they stand upright. Keep the pot in a bright spot out of direct sun, misting the cuttings every other day, until new growth indicates that they have rooted. Then move the cuttings into partial sun, shifting them gradually into full sun about four months after their rooting. Stakeout Wait until the cuttings are at least four months old before planting them outdoors. Choose a site in full sun near a sturdy support. Commercial growers frequently use posts that are 4 to 6 inches in diameter and about 5 feet high after they have been set in the ground. Plant three or four rooted cuttings around the stake, replacing about one-third of the soil with composted manure and another third with sand. Tie the cuttings to the stake with garden twine, water them well and mulch them with several inches of chopped bark, keeping the mulch at least 8 inches away from their stems. Continue to water the plant as necessary, making sure it gets at least 1/2 to 1 inch of water per week. Rake the mulch back to strew about 4 pounds of composted manure and 1/4 pound of 6-6-6 granular organic fertilizer around the stake in June. Repeat the 1/4-pound fertilizer application once every two months until October.
Go to Pot To grow a dragon fruit plant indoors, fill a 16- to 18-inch-diameter pot with cactus potting soil, and embed a heavy stake in its center. After planting three or four rooted cuttings around that stake, tie them to it and and water them thoroughly. Place the pot near a sunny window and water it again only when the surface of its soil feels dry to the touch. Fertilize an indoor plant monthly with 10-10-5 liquid plant food in April and May, mixing 1 tablespoon of the plant food per gallon of water. Afterwards, feed it monthly with 0-10-10 liquid plant food from June until October, using the same amount. Don't fertilize the plant at all from November through March. Train Your Dragon As the cuttings grow, either indoors or outdoors, prune off all their side-shoots until their stems reach the top of the stake. Then snip off the tips of those stems so that they will branch out, with those branches dangling down from the stake's crown like a head of hair. After a mature plant has finished flowering in the fall, prune out weak or dead growth and the branches that bloomed that year, allowing new ones to dangle down to replace them.
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