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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Dragon fruit is the edible fruit from the Pitaya cactus, a member of the Hylocereus genus. It is called dragon fruit for the scales on the outside of the fruit, which remind people of a dragon. While the cactus must be protected from freezing, it makes an attractive climbing houseplant in colder areas. It is easy to start from seed.
Step 1 Look online for seeds. If you can't find seeds, buy a dragon fruit, which can be found at many Asian markets. They come in yellow, red and magenta colors. Step 2 Cut the fruit in half. Scoop out a teaspoon of pulp, making sure you get some of the black seeds. Mash the pulp in a small amount of water to separate the seeds. Step 3 Clean the gelatinous pulp from the seeds. You won't need many seeds, because the germination rate is high. Enjoy the rest of the dragon fruit as a snack.
Step 4 Fill a shallow container with a planting medium made from equal parts seed-starting mix and sand. Moisten the mixture. Sprinkle the seeds on the top of the medium and barely cover them with sand. Seeds need light to germinate. Step 5 Place the container in a plastic bag to retain moisture. Set it in a warm spot that gets plenty of light. Check daily; seeds start germinating anywhere from one to 14 days after planting. After germination, remove the plastic bag. Step 6 Do not overwater the young cacti. After several months of growth, pot each small plant in its own container.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Christmas Cacti are notoriously difficult to root. This article might help you in rooting pieces for new plants or just rooting another in the same pot with the parent plant.
Root A Christmas Cactus House Plant Step 1 Sometimes a large Christmas cactus will start to fall apart. In this case you can take the large parts that have fallen apart from the big plant and root them. You can also try cutting a large part off of a big cactus and rooting it. In any case, you need a big piece of cactus to root a new plant. The picture of the cactus is one that I rooted. It is in the pot with the parent plant. The piece I rooted is about 10" wide and 7" tall. Smaller piece usually don't root. Step 2 Place the piece of cactus in a really good potting soil for indoor plants. Use new, store bought, potting soil. Place the piece into the pot with the soil and lightly pack the soil around the stem until the piece will stand up on it's own. Always take a cutting that has at least three leaves for the stem. Bury at least one leaf under the soil. The stem needs to be long enough to grow roots from. Step 3 Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Christmas cactus are succulents and not a true cacti. They grown on the floor of forests and in tree hollows and arms where it is moist. So don't let the soil dry out completely.
Step 4 The cutting will wilt and shrivel and look like it is going to die. This always happens. The cutting might die, but just keep caring for it. Step 5 When the cutting finally starts to take root, it may have been two months or so. You will notice that the stalk or stem has greened up. The outer leaves will still be shriveled and wilted. Just keep watering the plant. Just leave the wilted leaves alone even though you may want to cut them off. The leaves are alive and as the root system grows they will green up and puff up into healthy leaves.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Succulents are often exotic-looking plants with thick, fleshy leaves and stems designed to store water and help the plants thrive in warm, dry areas. Succulents grow throughout the world and include such diverse plants as jade (Crassula argentea), which grows as a perennial outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11, and greenii hens and chicks (Sempervivum tectorum subspecies greenii), which is hardy in USDA zones 4 through 9. Although certain succulents must be moved indoors during the winter months in some U.S. locations, many thrive outdoors in even very cold temperatures when they receive proper care.
Plant Winter-Hardy Varieties Choose winter-hardy succulents for the easiest winter care. Those plants include greenii hens and chicks, hardy ice plant (Delosperma cooperi, USDA zones 5 through 11) and 'Golden Sword' yucca (Yucca filamentosa 'Golden Sword', USDA zones 4 through 9). Although these succulents may wither or change color during cold weather, that is normal, and you will not have to provide them with winter protection. Keep the Soil Dry In northern U.S. states, succulents need far less water during the winter months than they do in summer. Stop fertilizing and watering succulents in late fall to prevent hydrated plants from freezing during winter. During cold months, keep their soil as dry as possible, and ensure your succulents receive enough air circulation to prevent dampness. If the soil around your succulents appears wet, then add sand to the soil to keep the plants' roots dry. A mixture that is one-third loam, one-third sand and one-third peat moss is reliable. Protect Them from Frost If freezing temperatures are expected, cover the succulents with fabric, such as an old bed sheet, or with a frost cloth, which is available from plant nurseries. Completely cover the succulents with the material, and place cinder blocks or other heavy objects on the material's edges to keep it in place. Avoid using a plastic cover, which prevents air circulation and makes sunlight too intense for plants.
As soon as the danger of frost passes, remove the material to encourage air circulation and provide sunlight. Relocate Them as Needed If your succulents are in pots, then place them in the most ideal conditions possible for cold weather. For example, put the potted plants in a sunny location under a porch or eaves if winters in your area are rainy. If temperatures become cooler than normal, place the container succulents near boulders, shrubs or walls that face south or west; those structures and plants retain heat. Another option is to move potted succulents indoors to help them thrive during frosty weeks or months. Place them in front of a bright, sunny window, and water their soil to prevent the plants from withering; water thoroughly, until water comes out the pots' bottom drain holes. Allow the soil to dry out completely before you water again. Do not fertilize the succulents during the winter months.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
The blue agave (Agave tequilana) is a large plant, up to 6 feet high with broad and stiff leaves forming an erect rosette. The leaves have a bluish tinge, giving the plant its name. Blue agaves produce a flower spike up to 15 feet high after between five and eight years of growth. Its hearts are used to make tequila, and it makes an excellent landscape plant in USDA Zones 9b and above.
Potted Agaves
Blue agave flower spike Step 1 Place a potted blue agave plant outdoors in the sunniest available spot. Blue agaves thrive in full sun and are vulnerable to rot in shady or cool conditions.
Blue agave Step 2 Water your agave during the warmer months of the year only when its soil is almost completely dry. Reduce watering to a minimum during the winter. Do not keep potted agaves on a dish as any excess irrigation water must be allowed to drain away. Fertilize only infrequently using a slow release granular fertilizer.
Blue agave detail Step 3 Replant your agave in a bigger pot when its roots completely fill its container or it becomes top-heavy. Use a potting compost formulated for succulents or a standard potting compost mixed in with 33 percent sharp sand. A heavy clay container will prevent agave plants from toppling over. Garden Agaves
Blue agave growing wild Step 4 Grow blue agaves in a sunny spot with well drained, preferably sandy soil. A minimum of six hours of sunshine a day is ideal, according to the University of Florida IFAS Extension. Plant on a raised mound in areas prone to flooding.
Agave in a garden setting Step 5 Water garden agaves only during summer during periods of drought or just after planting. Garden-grown agaves rarely need fertilizing but do benefit from mulching with organic matter such as bark chips.
Agave flower spike Step 6 Propagate agaves from offsets or pups which appear around the base of the parent plant. Separate the pups once they have developed their own root systems. You can also propagate blue agaves from seeds collected from the flower spikes.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
Agave plants (Agave spp.) thrive in desert gardens and in sandy soils with little moisture. They grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11, depending on the variety. Although agaves die after flowering, they have a long flowering cycle and can live for eight to 60 years. These desert succulents transplant well and tolerate disturbance, so you can move the plants to a new area at any time during the spring and summer growing season.
Safety First Most agave varieties have sharp spines along the edges of the leaves. The sap is also a common skin irritant and can cause allergic reactions. Before handling the agave, protect your skin and eyes. Heavy leather gloves, long sleeves and long pants provide skin protection. Wear eye protection so sap doesn't get into your eyes. Protecting the plant is also necessary. Disinfect any knives, shears or spade blades you will use to prune and cut through the plant to minimize bacterial soft rot and other disease problems. Wiping them with a cloth soaked in isopropyl alcohol kills any disease pathogens or pests. Plant Preparation Small plants, called pups or offsets, often grow up around the base of the main mother plant. Each of these pups grows into a new agave if you separate it from the mother. Cut these off just below the soil surface with a knife or the edge of the spade. Removing the outer leaves of a large agave plant lessens the weight during transplanting and results in a healthier looking plant. Peel the outer ragged leaves off the plant and dispose of them, leaving only the intact, healthy looking rosette of leaves in the center. Tie a string loosely around a remaining leaf on the west side of the agave to mark it, but avoid tying it too tightly and cutting into the leaf.
Digging Right A shovel lifts the entire plant and keeps you well away from the spiny foliage. Insert the shovel blade into the soil around the outer perimeter of the root zone, working around the plant until the soil is loosened. Slide the shovel under the root system and pry the agave out of the ground. Some roots will break, but this doesn't cause any long-lasting harm. After lifting the agave, dust any exposed wounds with sulfur powder to ward off infection. The wounds on any removed pups also benefit from a sulfur dusting before you replant them. Transplanting Success A site with sandy, fast-draining soil that receives all-day sunlight provides the best location for an agave or agave pup. Transplant at the same depth the agave was growing at previously and set it so the string-marked side is facing west. Planting agave so it faces the same direction prevents the side used to shade from sun damage. Spacing requirements vary depending on the agave variety, so leave enough room between plants so they can reach their full size without crowding. If you can't transplant right away, set the agave in a shaded location for two or three days and let any wounds dry over. After planting, cover the agave with a shade cloth to protect it from the direct sunlight as the roots establish in the new site, but remove the cloth as soon as new growth becomes apparent. Watering isn't usually necessary, but you can water just enough so the soil is barely moistened if the soil is completely dry and the plant has resumed growth.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
The spineless tropical cactus night-blooming cereus (Epiphyllum oxypetalum) produces spiderlike fragrant flowers that open in the evening. It grows in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 10 through 11 and it doesn't tolerate any frost, but it grows well as a houseplant or as a potted outdoor plant that's overwintered indoors in colder climates. Night-blooming cereus requires only basic care and it is a relatively low-maintenance plant, whether grown outdoors or inside.

Step 1 Set potted night-blooming cereus plants in an area that receives all-day, filtered sunlight, bright but indirect sunlight, or morning sun and afternoon shade. Place the plants outdoors if temperatures are above 50 degrees Fahrenheit at night. In warm, frost-free climates, grow the cactus in a well-drained, slightly sandy garden bed that receives some shade.
Step 2 Water the night-blooming cereus when the soil surface looks dry, but before the soil dries out completely. Sprinkle the water on the soil, keeping the cactus leaves dry, until excess water drains from the bottom of the pot or until the top 6 inches of soil feel moist in a garden bed. Water regularly from spring through early fall. Garden-grown and fully mature potted plants don't require winter watering. Water young pot-grown plants only when the soil dries in completely in winter. Properly watered cactus plants rarely suffer from stem rot or fungal problems.
Step 3 Mix 1/4 teaspoon of a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 15-15-15 blend, or of a bloom-inducing fertilizer, such as a 7-9-5 blend, with 1 gallon of water. Water the night-blooming cereus with the fertilizer solution once weekly during the active spring and summer growing season. Check the label because rates vary among brands and use one-fourth of the recommended concentration.
Step 4 Cut back any overgrown or damaged leaf stems after the cactus finishes flowering. Wipe a sharp knife with a rag soaked in rubbing alcohol to disinfect it before making a cut. Cut through leaf stems cleanly, cutting them back to the desired height but removing no more than one-third of their length.
Step 5 Bring potted plants indoors before the temperature drops below 40 F in fall or early winter. Temperatures below 35 F can kill the plant. Place the pot near a sunny window and water sparingly when the the soil dries completely. Move the pot back outdoors in spring after frost danger has passed.
Step 6 Inspect the leaves for white cottony masses that can indicate a mealybug infestation, the primary pest of night-blooming cereus. Remove the mealybugs by hand or dip a cotton swab in rubbing alcohol and dab it onto the bugs to kill them. Monitor the plant daily and remove or kill any new mealybugs until the pests are gone.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Yucca plants have tall blooming spikes and broad, sword-like leaves. Although native to desert climates, their hardiness and size have made them popular landscaping plants in other regions. If your yucca plants have grown too large for their space, you can cut them back while still maintaining their beauty. Yucca Growth Yuccas are drought-resistant and easy to take care of. Yucca plants grow by sending out rhizomes from the main stalk. The rhizomes sprout new baby plants, which is why yucca spreads so efficiently that some people consider it a pest. One way of propagating yuccas is to cut the rhizomes with baby plants from the main root. Dividing yuccas to control their growth works on the same principle. As the yucca plant grows, it's necessary to thin it out by dividing it because the plant can begin to crowd itself with too many clumps packed closely together. Dividing Yucca You might be able to divide the yucca plant without digging it up. If you look around the base of the plant, you will see the smaller clumps of baby plants on smaller rhizomes, called offsets. Rhizomes look more like twisted underground branches than roots, and you don't have to be as gentle with them as you do with exposed root systems. Use a saw, shovel or a strong knife, such as a machete, to break the offsets of the main rhizome. Don't be afraid to use force—rhizomes can be quite difficult to break apart, and it's unlikely you'll hurt the main plant.
Propagating Yucca From Divisions Divide yuccas for propagation in late fall or early winter, when the plant is dormant. If you want to propagate your yucca plant with the divisions, be a little more careful when separating the offsets from the main plant. To better see where the offsets are attached, you should dig up the whole yucca plant. You will still need to use a shovel, saw or strong knife to detach the offshoots from the main stem, but take care to preserve as much of the offset rhizome as possible. If your yucca plant has grown so large that it needs to be divided, you probably have several viable baby plants there. This means that even if you damage a few offsets, you will have plenty more that can be planted. Before planting the offsets, put them in a cool place to dry off for a few days. Plant them in sandy, well-drained soil. Bury the rhizome up to the base of the foliage, and water it in well. Keep the plant well-watered for at least three months until it's established.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

With large paddle-shaped fleshy green leaves edged in red, flapjack kalanchoe (Kalanchoe thyrsiflora), more commonly called simply flapjack, it makes a visual splash in the garden. It grows between 10 inches and 2 feet tall in a rosette pattern with the leaves growing out of the center stalk. Flapjack grows outdoors in U. S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 through 11 or as a houseplant. You can also treat it as an annual in cooler climates. A low-maintenance perennial succulent, flapjack needs minimal care to thrive. Fertilize Sparingly Fertilize flapjack two to four times per year with the first application in the spring when new growth starts. Apply the last fertilizer in the fall then stop through the winter. Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 product, to supply continuous nutrients between feedings. Use 1 tablespoon for each 1 square foot of area around each plant. For larger beds, use 1 cup per 30 for each square feet. Water Lightly Flapjack is a drought-tolerant succulent. Allow the soil to dry out on top between waterings. When watering, soak the soil 6 inches deep. Container Growing Flapjack grows well in pots, either indoors or outside. Indoors, set the bots in a bright room with indirect light, ideally in a spot between 50 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Outside, keep the pots in a sunny area of the patio or porch or set the planters in the garden. Fertilizing Container Plants Fertilize a container-grown flapjack every other week with 1/2 teaspoon of balanced 15-15-15 fertilizer. Mix the fertilizer into 1 gallon of water and use it to water the plant.
Watering Container Plant Water a flapjack in a planter until the soil is thoroughly damp and extra water starts to leak out the drainage holes in the bottom, then wait to water until the top of the soil looks dry. Overwintering Indoors In USDA zones 9 and below, grow flapjack in planters outdoors in the summer and overwinter them inside. In fall, before the first freeze, move the pots to a sunny spot that stays between 50 and 60 F. Stop fertilizing for the winter and water only when the soil feels dry. In spring, after the last frost, return the container-grown flapjack outside. Pests and Problems Flapjack doesn't attract pests and rarely suffers from diseases and other problems. Pruning and Trimming This tidy succulent doesn't require any pruning or trimming during or after the growing season. The only exception is the flower stalk. After the flapjack flowers, cut out the dead flower stalk where it attaches to the main plant. Flapjack is grown as a foliage plant, and flowers only appear after three to four years, so in general you can get by without any pruning.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Like the more familiar Christmas cactus, the Easter cactus is a flowering jungle cactus. Because this cactus originated in the jungle rather than the arid regions common among cactus plants, its care is slightly different than that of other cactus plants. The Easter cactus can survive cold up to 28 degrees Fahrenheit, but is commonly brought indoors during the winter months so you can manage its light and watering requirements. Christmas cactus credit: Jupiterimages/Photos.com/Getty Images Step 1 Place the cactus in a cool environment during its dormant period of October to February. You'll want to water the plant only when the soil has dried out between waterings. To tell if it's the right time, touch the soil with your fingers. If the soil clings to your fingers, it's still wet. Water when the soil slips off your fingers. Step 2 Move the Easter cactus into a colder environment, about 50 to 55 F, toward the end of the dormant season as buds begin to develop. If temperatures are much warmer, your Easter cactus will not bloom. Step 3 Move the Easter cactus to a warmer room with more light once the buds are established. You'll want to keep a temperature near 60 degrees Fahrenheit while the plant is blooming, typically from April to May. Make sure you water deeply during this time, and water while the soil is still moist.
Step 4 Move the plant outside during summer months to benefit from the natural sunlight. Keep an Easter cactus in a partially sunny spot. If you live in an area that has slugs, place the plant in a hanging basket to avoid a slug infestation. Move the plant indoors by September or October to get it ready for the dormant season. Step 5 Place the plant in a cool room. Keep the soil moist but don't offer too much water. Continue to care for your Easter cactus in this fashion until February when new blooms begin to appear.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Cacti are angiosperms. Although cacti grow slowly, their life cycles are the same as for any other flowering plant. Cacti reproduce sexually through flower and seed production, or asexually by the fragmentation and rooting of stems. Germination Cactus seeds are often distributed by birds, which are attracted to the fruit. Germination occurs in the presence of sufficient water and warm temperatures. Vegetative Growth After seed germination it can take several months for the basic barrel shape of the cactus seedling to become visible. It takes five to 10 years for small species to reach flowering size. Flowering If there has been sufficient rainfall, flowering occurs in most species during the spring, once temperatures are warm enough.
Pollination Most cacti are self-sterile, requiring pollen from a different individual plant. Depending on the cactus species, bees, wasps, beetles, butterflies, moths, birds and bats can pollinate cactus flowers. Fruit Formation Cactus fruits are seed-filled berries. They form at the base of the flowers and are often brightly colored and sweet to attract birds. Forced Flowering In cultivation, cactus plants can sometimes be induced to flower by keeping them in a dark place for up to six weeks and then providing light and water.
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