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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Growing a cactus indoors or out can create visual interest and a feel reminiscent of a dry, rugged landscape. While many cacti grow well when planted in the ground in a preferred climate, container grown cacti can sometimes begin to wilt as a sign they are either receiving too much water or not enough. Luckily, you can fix a wilting cactus by improving your soil and making changes to your watering schedule. Step 1 Feel the soil around the base of your cactus for wetness. If the soil is powdery and dry, then water quantity or frequency is the issue. Proceed to Step 2. Step 2 If the soil is overly wet, then an excess of water is the cause of the wilting and you'll need to follow steps 3 to 5. Step 3 Water dry soil using 1/2 cup of water for every 4 inches in diameter of your cactus' pot. For example, an 8-inch pot would require a cup of water. Supply this quantity of water weekly from spring to fall, but provide this amount of water every two to three weeks during the winter.
Step 4 Ease the cactus out of the soggy soil container and knock off any excess soil to expose the roots. Inspect the roots of the plant to see if they appear firm and white or if they have turned brown and mushy. Cut off any bad, mushy roots using a clean knife. Step 5 Rinse out and wash the old pot your plant was in or use a new pot no more than 1 to 2 inches larger in size. Fill the pot with succulent soil or an equal mix of potting soil and builder's sand. Step 6 Plant the wilting cactus into the center of the prepared pot at an equal depth to how it was previously planted. Leave the plant unwatered for one week. Resume watering according to Step 2 for quantity and frequency during the year.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

The starfish cactus is also called carrion flower due to the strong unpleasant odor of its fleshlike flowers. The plant is a succulent from South Africa with starfish-shaped flowers and long, slender, spiked branches. The flower attracts flies not only with its potent smell but also with the soft white fur that covers the flower and resembles mold covering rotting flesh. There are about 100 species in the plant's family, Asclepiadaceae, which includes several other fly-attracting blooms. The Cactus Several varieties of the starfish cactus exist. They all have the green branching arms that are tinged red in high-sun situations. The arms are barbed with thick white spines. The stems have four angles arrayed up the length and are an inch thick on average. The plant itself reaches 9 inches tall and has a wider spreading habit. Some of the varieties of cactus are considered rare in South Africa, a condition caused by loss of habitat. Carrion Flowers The flowers of the starfish plant may extend 10 inches across. The flowers are five-pointed and flesh-colored, although some have a grayish cast and others have a rosy glow. The larger species bear flowers at the base of the plant and smaller blooming species may have flowers scattered over the cactus. Each flower only lasts a few days but may die out and become replaced by another bloom. The petals have a grainy texture and pores that resemble skin.
Bloom Time The blooming time of starfish cacti depends on where they are being raised, the amount of sun and water they receive, the fertility of the soil and the variety. On average, you can expect a baby plant to bloom in two years with just one or two flowers. When it is mature, the plant will bloom successively in July to September in North America. They flower in November through March in South Africa where they are native. Blooms are rare and rely upon prime growing conditions. Pollination and Fruit The stench is the attracting part of the flower, but its resemblance to flesh actually confuses flies into laying their eggs on the interior. The interior structure of the flower is webbed, which traps the legs of the flies. As they struggle, a pollen packet is attached to the insect's leg and they move on to the next flower. After the flower has finished, it sheds the petals and the ovary swells. Eventually, it bears a number of slightly hairy seeds. Seed is easy to start, but the plant will not bear flowers for many years.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Taking cuttings from a cactus plant is an easy method of propagation, as long as you're careful around the spines! Pad-forming, columnar, or segmented cacti can all be cloned in this way. Since cacti are drought-tolerant, cuttings will not suffer when exposed to the air, and actually prefer to dry out in order to propagate. Ideally, plant in the springtime when cacti are beginning to initiate new growth. Cuttings will only propagate successfully during certain months. When nighttime temperatures are 60 degrees F and above, its a good time to take cuttings. Step 1 Cut a cactus segment using a sharp, clean knife -- ideally, serrated. If cloning a pad cactus, cut between the pads. Cut a columnar cactus anywhere along the stem at a 45-degree angle. Cuttings can vary greatly in size, from immature globes to meter-long stem pieces. Step 2 Square off the base of the cutting and let it sit in a warm, dry place until it dries. If it is not allowed to dry, the tip may rot. Wait until a callus forms, which will protect it from soil-borne diseases. This can take one to 14 days.
Step 3 Fill growing containers with a propagation mix of 1/2 organic and 1/2 inorganic material, ideally peat or compost and pumice or perlite. Place cuttings deeply into the mix, ensuring they will not topple over. Columnar cacti may need to be placed especially deep. Step 4 Provide plenty of sunshine and cool temperatures for the first few months as the cutting is taking hold. Avoid over-watering in these early stages, as it may lead to rot. Gallon-size containers can sustain the cuttings for the first year.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Cacti are suited to dry, arid environments, and nearly all their problems are related to water. Even most diseases that affect cactus plants attack when moisture levels are wrong. Although some cacti will shrivel during the winter months as part of their life cycle, most causes of shriveling are related to improper watering or moisture levels. Water By far, most problems with cactus are caused by overwatering, but the opposite extreme of not enough water will cause shriveling. A cactus that is too dry to sustain its flesh will begin to shrink, causing the skin to crinkle and the entire plant to appear shriveled. Proper Amount of Water The proper amount of water for a cactus depends on the time of year and weather conditions. Generally, provide a good watering that soaks into the soil several inches for the cactus plant once per month. The soil should be allowed to drain and become completely dry between watering. When the cactus is in a fast growth phase or is blooming, generally in spring, water may be needed more often, up to twice per month.
Proper Soil In addition to the right amount of water, a cactus plant also requires the proper type of soil. Heavy, moist soils will cause problems. The soil should be sandy and drain quickly. Most varieties of cactus prefer a mixture of sand and small pebbles. The right soil will keep moisture at the right level for the cactus and prevent shriveling. Dormancy Even with the best care, some varieties of cactus will shrivel once per year as they go into a dormant state for several months. This typically occurs during the winter months when temperatures drop. If an otherwise healthy cactus that normally does well on the amount of water received begins to shrivel, it is probably going into a dormant period. When the weather warms up, it will return to its normal state.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

The Christmas cactus (Schumbergera bridgesii) is a member of the holiday cactus family. The bloom time of the plant is dependent on short periods of daylight and cool temperatures customary in late fall. The combination of cool temperatures and reduced sunlight causes the cactus to bloom in December. In October or November, encourage the cactus to set buds for a December bloom by setting the plant near a sunlit window in a room with temperatures between 60 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. Christmas cactus is easy to propagate from a broken piece of a stem. Step 1 Break or cut the stem to include two to three sections connected end to end. Each section has one flat end and one pointed end that connects to the previous section of the stem. Collect the stem sections about six months after the plant blooms, which could be May or June. During that six-month time frame, the plant will replenish nutrients depleted during the bloom cycle. A stem piece accidentally broken from the Christmas cactus can be rooted anytime, but it may not bloom the first year. Step 2 Keep the sections connected. Each section should be whole. If the break occurred through a section, disconnect the torn section at a joint. The section can be disconnected at a joint by grasping a section in each hand with your thumbs close to the joint. Gently pinch and pull the sections apart. Place the sections on a saucer to dry overnight. Step 3 Place perlite in a container at least 2 inches deep. Moisten the perlite.
Step 4 Examine the joint of the Christmas cactus section. The end should be dry and firm. If the joint is not dry, allow the sections to rest for a few more hours. If the joint is dry, insert the end into the moist perlite to a depth of about 1 inch. Multiple cuttings can be rooted in the same container. Space the cuttings about 1 inch apart. Step 5 Cover the container with a plastic bag to hold in moisture. Secure the bag around the container. A small container may be placed inside a food storage bag that can be sealed from the top. Step 6 Place the container in indirect sunlight. Keep the perlite moist. Minimal moisture inside the bag is expected. If moisture is dense, covering one-third of the bag, then open the bag to allow the excess moisture to escape. Step 7 Examine the roots of one of the cuttings after six weeks in the perlite. If the roots are at least 1 inch long, the cutting is ready for transplanting into potting soil. Return the cutting to the perlite if roots are too short. Reseal the bag and check the roots again in about two weeks.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

The curious little cacti with the colorful tops have been favorites for office and homes since they became commercially available. Most people who keep moon cacti, however, have no idea that they are grafted cacti composed of two different plants. The colorful top is a cactus that lacks chlorophyll called the chin cactus (Gymnocalycium spp.); the bottom is one of several different cacti varieties. Because these grafted cacti are made using different kinds of rootstock, it is difficult to know what size they would reach at maturation, left to their own devices. They simply do not exist in nature and do not generally live a full cactus lifetime. Why Graft Cacti The chin cactus that is the colored top of the moon cactus is often grafted on the top of another cactus because of a genetic mutation that has resulted in its lack of chlorophyll. In a state of nature, these mutant cacti would not live but a few weeks because they would have a difficult time feeding themselves. Grafting them on to a green cactus as a seedling allows them to share food with the green cactus below. Understock Varieties The understocks of moon cacti are usually either from pitaya (Hylocereus spp.) or blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans), both dark green cacti that grow larger than their grafted counterparts. Most cacti kept indoors will grow at a slow or medium rate, generally only growing a few inches per year, unlike a cactus in its natural settings.
Pitaya Pitaya has a fleshy stem that can have three to five sides and can be seen climbing in to tree tops in the wild. They reach upward of 20 feet when left on their own. Pitaya is an important fruit-bearing plant in Florida, with the thornless varieties being preferred to the thorned. Blue Myrtle Cactus The blue myrtle cactus enjoys a position among the favored rootstocks for grafting all kinds of cacti. They are large cactus that develop multiple branching sections. A blue myrtle cactus in its entirety resembles a bush that reaches 15 feet high and 10 feet wide. It is a commonly seen cactus in southern Mexico and throughout U.S. Department of Agriculture hardiness zones 9 through 11.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Unlike other indoor plants, cactus can live for generations when properly cared for. If your indoor cactus looks wilted or shriveled up and needs reviving don't despair. Cacti are hardy plants accustomed to harsh conditions and periods of neglect or no water. Although exact the methods of reviving your cactus will vary based upon your exact type of cactus and its current condition, you can bring life back to your indoor cactus by checking for — and fixing — a few common cactus-growing mistakes. Step 1 Inspect the roots of the cactus by gently removing it from the soil. Healthy roots look white and fleshy. If the roots are brown and mushy the plant is suffering from root rot. Cut off the damaged roots with a sharp knife. Step 2 Repot the cactus in a slightly larger pot than before, with well-draining potting mix specifically for succulents. If you don't have succulent mix, you can combine 1 part sand with 2 parts traditional potting soil instead. Step Water the soil until the top 1 inch of soil feels moist but not soggy. Keep in mind that cactus needs brief dry spells in between watering. If the plant receives too little the leaves may shrivel up. Too much water may cause the plant to go limp. Step 4 Place the cactus in a location that received bright indirect sunlight. Too much direct sunlight may burn your cactus.
Step 5 Position plants away from drafts such as from vents or windows. Stressed plants may become shocked from hot or cold drafts from vents. Although your plant may do well with some brief exposure to outside air, it may also expose the plant to insects. Step 6 Fertilize the cactus monthly with a balanced houseplant fertilizer during the plant's non-blooming months.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen
A succulent is a plant which can store water within its leaves or bulbs for a long period of time without the need of frequent watering like other plants. You can mail a succulent plant to someone and not have to be worried about the plant not receiving any water for a few days. Packaging the plant properly will ensure its safe journey. Check with your local Department of Agriculture of extension office about rules on sending certain types of plants to other states or countries. Step 1 Obtain the succulent you wish to send at a garden center or dig it up from your own yard. Shake off any excess soil. Don't water it. Succulent plants will travel better with dry roots. Step 2 Wrap the succulent in tissue paper. For succulents with spikes, wrap carefully in three sheets of newspaper. Make a label for each plant and tape on the paper. Make a warning note for any succulents that have spikes. Step 3 Place the roots of succulents such as epiphytes, orchid cacti or Christmas cactus in a plastic bag containing a small amount of peat moss and secure it with twine. Wrap the foliage in tissue paper or newspaper.
Step 4 Place the wrapped succulent into an inner box and then into a sturdy shipping box. The inner box will provide more protection especially for the succulents with pointy leaves. Step 5 Fill in any empty spaces with newspaper to prevent the movement of the items during shipping. Step 6 Secure the outer box with three strips of pressure sensitive tape that is 2 inches wide. Apply on the top, the bottom and all seam of the box, according to Federal Express. Write "Perishable" on the box and address it appropriately. Mail the succulents overnight to ensure a quick delivery.
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