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A. Besides raising pets, I also liked to plant green plants.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Yucca cane plants grow as indoor houseplants and as outdoor ornamental plants in the garden. Yucca thrives at temperatures between 60 and 95 degrees Fahrenheit with partial shade. If you live in an area with freezing winters, plant your yucca canes in containers so they can be brought indoors during the cold months. Repot the Plant Step 1 Repot the yucca cane plant every two years. Choose a growing container at least 2 inches larger than the previous pot. Step 2 Place 1 inch of pea gravel in the bottom of the growing container. This will help the water drain. Step 3 Fill the container with a mixture comprised of three parts peat moss and one part sand. Step 4 Remove the plant from the existing container and gently shake the soil medium from the roots. Step 5 Dig a hole in the center of the container large enough for the root ball of the plant. Step 6 Center the root ball in the hole and cover with the growing medium, packing the soil mixture around the stem and roots of the plant. Step 7 Water the plant until water drains from the bottom of the container. Other Care Step 8 Place the yucca plant in a sunny window or an area that receives full light for part of the day.
Step 9 Water the plant only when the soil is dry. Insert a pencil or a chopstick 2 inches into the soil. Remove the pencil -- if it is completely dry, water the plant. Step 10 Fertilize the plant using a 19-6-12 slow release fertilizer according to label directions every three months. Step 11 Place the plants outdoors during the late spring and early summer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Whether you transplant small 'Black' hens and chicks (Sempervivum 'Black') -- hardy from U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 4 through 9 -- or a larger succulent such as a prickly pear cactus (Opuntia spp.) -- hardy from USDA zones 3b through 11, the keys to success lie in proper soil with good drainage. Therefore, you'll probably spend more time preparing the new growing area than you will transplanting your succulents. Also check each succulent's light requirements before you transplant because a succulent variety may need full sun or shade. Cactus credit: fotokate/iStock/Getty Images Some succulents spread, and their growth habits indicate how much space they need. Check Drainage Many types of succulents exist, and what makes a plant a succulent is its ability to draw and store water in its tissues. Succulents also don't tolerate having wet roots, however. So the transplant location you choose for them should have good drainage. Avoid transplanting succulents to low spots. Check a site's drainage by digging a hole in it when its topsoil is moist. Make the hole 12 inches in diameter and 12 inches deep. Fill the hole with water, and monitor its drainage. If water drains from the hole in fewer than three hours, then the soil has good drainage. If it takes three to 12 hours to drain, then the drainage is OK for most landscaping plants, but you still could improve the drainage. A hole that takes more than 12 hours to drain means the soil has poor drainage that definitely needs to be improved. Fix Drainage in a Dry Climate If you live in a dry climate, one way to improve soil drainage is to add a layer of gravel in the bottom of your desired planting area. Dig about 2 feet deep in the entire planting area. Place a 12-inch-thick layer of gravel in the excavated site, and follow it with a few inches of the soil you removed while digging. Over the top of the soil, place 6 to 8 inches of sharp sand. Afterward, the site will offer good drainage for succulents such as prickly pear. Fix Drainage in a Wet Climate If you live in a wet climate, create good drainage with an elevated "rock garden." On top of the current soil, set a layer of large, 8- to 12-inch-high rocks. Add coarse sand or pea gravel on the rocks, and then wet the site. Allow it to dry for a few days. Finally, add 3 to 4 inches of scree. A scree suggested by Urban Horticulture Program Assistant John McLaughlin, Ph.D., in an article on the University of Florida IFAS Extension website is a mixture that is 1 part Canadian sphagnum peat, 1 part potting soil, 2 parts course sand and 6 parts bonsai or poultry grit, which is small pebbles of porous granite or other stone. Mix the scree ingredients in a wheelbarrow, and then dump the mixture on top of the sand or pea gravel. Spread the scree evenly across the pile's top. Then cover it with a 1-inch-thick layer of 1/2-inch gravel.
Plant Properly The temperature at transplanting time should be at least 70 degrees Fahrenheit and not lower than 50 F, especially if you transplant small succulents. Wear a pair of thick, leather work gloves to avoid injuries from succulents' prickly points. If a succulent you want to transplant is in the ground, then use a trowel or shovel to loosen the soil, sand or gravel several inches from the plant's perimeter, and gently remove the plant from the ground. Lightly brush soil from the roots. Dig into the new planting site's soil material, making a hole deep and wide enough for the root spread of the succulent you want to put in the hole. Place the root part of the plant in the hole, and allow the fleshy or stem parts of the plant to remain above the soil line. Spread the roots, and cover them with the site's soil material, making the material even with the surrounding ground's surface. Tamp the soil. Allow the plant to dry out and to repair its roots for about one week before watering. Add water once each week thereafter. It's time to water when you stick your finger a few inches into the surrounding soil and find the soil is dry.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Many cactus plants have a sculptural quality to them, little hinting at the amazing show they put on when they bloom. Flowers are usually large for the size of the plant, most staying open just one day. The petals have a shimmering, silky sheen. Colors range from dazzling white to everything but true blue and black, sometimes with several colors in one flower. Most cactus bloom in the spring, opening during the day. A number are pollinated by bats or moths and open at night. Spring Blooms Springtime sees most cactus blooming, because temperatures aren't too hot yet, the plants are actively growing after resting all winter and spring rains give them enough water for their extravagant floral display. Even if rains are sparse, cactus draw upon their stored water to flower, but not as abundantly. In Arizona's Sonoran Desert, cactus begin to bloom in March, with April the month of highest flowering. In May prickly pears (Opuntia spp.) flower; they're hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11. Summer Shows Cactus that flower in summer's heat are generally substantial ones with a significant amount of stored water in their bodies. This helps them bloom reliably when daytime temperatures climb. The saguaro (Carnegiea gigantea), which reaches 30 to 50 feet tall, flowers in mid-May to mid-June, when temperatures in its native Sonoran Desert regularly reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit. Many waxy-petaled flowers encircle branch ends and open at night for visits by bats. Saguaros, hardy in USDA zones 9a to 10b, begin to flower when they're 40 to 50 years old. Heavy-bodied barrel cacti (Ferocactus spp.) varieties bloom from spring into summer with yellow, orange or bright red flowers, depending on the species. Fishhook barrel cactus (Ferocactus wislizeni) grows to 5 feet tall in USDA zones 8 through 11. Night Bloomers Cactus flowers that open at night help the plant conserve water; in warm months, it's coolest at night. Peruvian apple cactus (Cereus repandus) typifies a moth-pollinated flower, with its 5-inch diameter, trumpet shape and sweet fragrance. It blooms most abundantly in spring, with fall rebloom possible. The columnar blue-green cactus reaches 20 feet tall and branches from the base. The cactus needs frost protection in USDA zone 9, and is hardy in zones 10 and 11. Night blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) displays another large moth-pollinated white flower. It blooms in spring and summer on flattened stems that resemble long, scalloped leaves. This cactus is cultivated for its oval, red fruits, called dragonfruit, and is hardy in USDA zones 10 and 11.
Christmas Cactus This familiar houseplant announces its season of bloom through its common name. With its flattened, leaf-like stem, Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera truncata) grows as an epiphyte in tropical forests of southeastern Brazil. Many hybrids and cultivars now exist, with red, white, pink, purple, peach and salmon-colored blooms that usually occur in winter. The plant responds to long nights with over 13 hours of darkness each night and cool night temperatures, prompting it to bloom right around Christmastime when it's grown as a temperate-climate houseplant. Hardy to USDA zones 10 through 12, Christmas cactus flowers best when it is slightly pot-bound. It is also called Thanksgiving cactus or Easter cactus, because it can be manipulated to bloom at those seasons of the year.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
From a distance, your prized cactus looks as if a group of passing school children had plastered it with freshly chewed white gum. Closer inspection reveals something different, and it's not mold. Depending on the type of cactus you have, the waxy white splotching is a cochineal scale or mealybug colony. To restore your plant's good looks and preserve its health, you'll need to act. Target Plants Pinhead-sized cochineal scales feast on prickly pear (Opuntia spp.) and cholla cactuses (Cylindropuntia spp.) both of which grow in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 3b through 11, depending on variety. Flat, segmented mealybugs target orchid cacti (Epiphyllum spp.), which grow as houseplants outside of USDA zones 10 through 11. Both insects hide beneath protective layers of soft, fibrous white wax. The bright-red female scales have pigmentation so strong that they're farmed as commercial dye sources in several warm-climate countries. Mealybugs are typically yellowish or gray. Damage and Sun Deprivation Both cochineal scales and mealybugs deprive the cactus of moisture and nutrients by draining sap with their hollow, tissue-piercing mouthparts. The biggest threat they pose comes from blocking the sun the plants need to manufacture food. An uncontrolled scale population eventually covers enough of the pads to interfere with photosynthesis by preventing sun from reaching the plants. If your cholla or prickly pear is withered and yellow, it's time for action. Mealybugs' sticky waste, or honeydew, attracts layers of sun-blocking sooty mold to orchid cacti. Small Cochineal Problems Chollas and prickly pears handle light cochineal infestations without much difficulty. To deal with a small number of the insects, put on heavy gloves and prune the infested pads off at the joints, disposing of them away from your garden. Avoid accidentally spreading disease accidentally by wiping your pruning tools off between cuts with a rag dipped in rubbing alcohol. Cochineal Infestations To eradicate a large colony cochineal scale colony, blast your cactus with a garden hose. The water's force removes the insect's waxy coverings. Then spray them with a solution of 1/2 teaspoon of non-detergent, liquid dish soap mixed in 1 gallon of water. The soap suffocates the exposed scales without leaving residue toxic to honeybees or other beneficial bugs. Dress in yard clothes when spraying, in case you're splattered with runoff tinted red from smashed scales. You won't eliminate all the pests, so repeat the spraying as the colonies rebuild.
Mealybug Management Treating mealybugs on a spine-free orchid cactus is relatively simple. Use the hosing technique on an outdoor plant. After wrapping an indoor cactus's container in a plastic bag to prevent overwatering, set it in a sink or shower for spraying. Dabbing a small number of mealybugs with cotton swabs dipped in a solution of 1 part rubbing alcohol to 3 parts water also works. Preventing Problems Always quarantine a new cactus before introducing it into your yard or home. Check it daily for a month and treat scale or mealybug infestations immediately. Check and treat an orchid cactus that spends the summer outside before bringing it in for the winter. If many people grow cactuses in your area, it may be almost impossible to prevent all infestations of cochineal scale.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Golden Sedum (Sedum adolphi) is a low-growing succulent plant with pointed dark green leaves. The leaves develop orange or reddish tips when exposed to bright sunlight. Sedum adophi produces white, star-shaped flowers in spring. It can survive a few hours in temperatures as low is 29 degrees Fahrenheit, but is not considered winter hardy except in frost-free locations, such as United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zone 10 and warmer. Sedum adolphi is most often grown as a houseplant or an attractive outdoor container plant where it can be protected during the winter. Step 1 Purchase a well-draining container for planting Sedum adolphi. The container should not be any bigger than 2 inches more in diameter than the root section of the plant. A larger container will contain more potting soil than is needed for the plant to grow. Unused potting soil collects moisture and the organic material in the potting soil will create fungal problems that can spread to the plant. Step 2 Fill the bottom of the container with 1 inch of fine gravel. The gravel helps the container drain so it does not hold water. A Sedum adophi plant cannot sit in waterlogged soil or the plant will rot. Step 3 Add potting soil until the container is half full. Carefully take the sedum from the previous container and plant in the new container. Add more potting soil around the Sedum adolphi until it is planted at the same depth it was planted in the previous container and the soil surface is 1 inch below the top of the container. Add water over the soil to settle the potting soil. Add more potting soil as needed. Spread a 1/2-inch layer of gravel over the potting soil. Leave a 1/2-inch space between the gravel and the top of the container so soil and gravel will not wash from the container during watering.
Step 4 Water the Sedum adolphi when the soil in the container is dry. Test the soil for dryness by pushing your finger through the gravel mulch into the top inch of soil. Water heavily until water runs from the bottom of the container. Step 5 Fertilize once a month with a one-fourth strength solution of water soluble fertilizer appropriate for container plants. Only fertilize during the spring and summer months when the plant is actively growing. Step 6 Place the container in which the Sedum adolphi is planted in a brightly lit location in the house. Outdoors, place the Sedum adolphi where it is protected from the hottest afternoon sun. Direct sun in the first part of the day followed by shade or dappled sun is best.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
The look of a cactus can be quite deceiving. Spiny, leafless desert cacti, mostly native to North and South America, transform into some of the most dazzling plants when in bloom. Belonging to the Cactaceae plant family, more than 1,000 different species of cacti exist, including those of the tropical variety that are indigenous to Brazil.
Desert Cultivars Following a period of about five years, bright yellow blossoms with red throats -- the flowers' tubular organs -- appear on small sea urchin cacti (A. asterias). Compass barrel cacti (F. cylindraceus) boast bell-shaped, orange and yellow flowers. Buds on the Claret Cup Hedgehog (E. triglochidiatus) burst open into vivid scarlet hues. The Rose Pincushion cactus (M. zeilmanniana) produces reddish-violet blossoms and, on the small, Snowball Pincushion variety (M. candida), rings of cream-colored flowers turn to pink. Tropical Holiday Cacti
Christmas cacti bloom on the stem tips. Blooming in white and a multitude of colors including red, lavender, orange, pink and yellow, Thanksgiving and Christmas cacti (S. truncata and S. bridgesii), as well as the Easter cactus (R. gaertneri), create showy holiday displays. These tropical cacti bloom in abundance and sport wide, flat, leaf-like stems. Thanksgiving cacti flower through the holiday and well into January. Christmas cactus blossoms open on the stem tips and bloom for long periods in cooler temperatures. Blooming mainly in spring, Easter cacti may flower at other times during the year. Night-blooming Cacti Cactus flowers grow from the area of the plant known as the cephalium. Column cacti (C. uruguayanus) bloom at night in white with petal tips of diverse colors. The night-flowering orchid cactus of the Epiphyllum species produces blossoms in multiple hues during late summer and early autumn. The sweetly scented flowers of the orchid cactus can reach a length of 6 inches or more. Pollination
In daytime, brightly colored cactus blossoms attract bees and hummingbirds. The brilliant hues of cactus blossoms attract daytime pollinators such as bees and hummingbirds. Dim light reflecting from the soft colors of night-blooming cacti, along with the plants' heady scent, draw moths and bats for pollination. In southwestern North America's Sonoran Desert, the fragrant blossoms of saguaro (C. gigantea) and organ pipe cacti (S. thurberi) lure bats to their sweet nectar. The bats emerge from their nectar feast covered in pollen, contributing to the pollination process as they fly from flower to flower.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Succulent jade plants are popular houseplants because they are easy to care for and rarely suffer from pests or diseases. A healthy jade plant has plump, green leaves with glossy surfaces. If your jade plant has white dots or spots on its leaves, this could be a sign of insect infestation or incorrect growing conditions. Investigate any potential problem straightaway before it has a chance to spread. Mealy Bugs Mealy bugs are small, soft-bodied insects up to 1/4 inch long. They are covered with a layer of white dust or filaments that are mobile. Mealy bugs gather on new stems and on the undersides of jade plant roots. Treat mealy bugs by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol. Deal with severe infestations by using a systemic insecticide formulated for houseplants. Salt Jade plants naturally develop small crystals of salt on their leaves. The salt is absorbed through the roots and excreted by the leaves. It dries into small, white dots. You can't prevent these but you can remove them with a damp cloth. Flush out the soil of your jade plant with plenty of water if it is covered with a white crust of salt. Oedema Jade plants that receive too much water suffer from a condition known as oedema. The first symptom is develop blisters on the leaves. These pop and form small, corky spots that go from yellowish-white to brown. Reduce watering of jade plants showing signs of oedema. The spots that are already present are permanent but no new ones will appear. Oedema is most common on jade plants during the winter.
Other Causes Water drops drying on jade plant leaves leave white spots on their surfaces, especially in hard-water areas. Wipe them off with a damp cloth. Jade plants exposed to household chemical sprays or hot cooking oil may also develop discolored spots on the leaves. Indoor jade plants kept in a humid room such as a bathroom sometimes develop powdery mildew on their leaves in the winter. Decrease the local humidity levels or increase the airflow around the plant to prevent it from growing again.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Jade plants (Crassula ovata) can be grown from a single leaf and end up over 5 feet tall. They have fleshy branches and rounded, glossy leaves. As succulents, they require little water but grow best in bright light with some direct sunshine. Jade plants lose older leaves naturally but an increase in the rate of leaf loss is often the first sign of a problem. Underwatering Jade plants that are not receiving enough water often shed their older leaves. If the lower leaves on your plant are shriveling up and then falling off, check its soil. If it is completely dry, water your plant thoroughly. Water a jade plant every time the top inch of its soil is completely dry. Jade plants add leaves and shoots during the summer and need more water during the hot summer months. Overwatering Succulent jade plants are vulnerable to rot and must never be left with their pot standing in water. Check your plant's soil if its leaves turn yellow and start to drop off. Do not apply any more water until it has dried out completely. Remove the plant from its pot if you notice any soft sections on the trunk or branches. Wash all the soil off the roots and place it on a windowsill for a week. Cut off any branches or roots that are soft and repot in cactus potting mix. Light If your jade is losing its lower leaves at the beginning of winter this is likely to be because of low light. Move your plant closer to a window to increase light levels. Jade plants that are kept close to a window will shed leaves if they touch the glass on very hot or very cold days. Keep the plant a few inches back from the glass. Temperature Keep jade plants above 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter as cold temperatures will damage the leaves. Frost will kill your jade plant completely. Jade plants will shed leaves if they are placed in a cold draft or close to a radiator. A sudden change in temperature caused by a move will also cause leaf drop. The leaves will grow back once your plant has adapted to its new surroundings.
Leaf Shine Never use leaf shine products on jade plants as it will cause all their leaves to turn yellow and fall off. Household chemicals and cleaners have a similar effect if they touch the leaves. Jade plant leaves shine naturally if they are dust free and the plant is healthy. Pests Jade plants are vulnerable to infestations of mealy bugs and scale insect. Mealies and scale make jade leaves sticky and can encourage the growth of molds. They also cause leaf drop and deformed leaves. Treat mealies and scale by dabbing them with a paintbrush dipped in a 70 percent solution of rubbing alcohol.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Christmas cactus (Schumbergera bridgesi) is a departure from the stereotypical prickly, sun-loving, dry weather, desert plant, as Christmas cactus is tropical and has different growing requirements. Although Christmas cactus appreciates bright sunlight, it blooms best with moist soil and cooler temperatures. Christmas cactus isn't a demanding plant, and with proper care, it will reward you with colorful blooms in time for the winter holidays. Propagate Christmas cactus by rooting sections of stem in May or June.
Step 1 Select a joint between stem segments, and pinch it with your fingernails or cut it with a clean, sharp knife. The cut stem must have at least three to five stem segments.
Step 2 Place the stem on a paper plate or paper towel, then set it aside to dry for about a day, but possibly as long as two weeks. The amount of drying time needed will depend on the size of the cut surface. Once the cut end has formed a callus, which will prevent the stem from rotting, the stem will be ready for planting. Because the Christmas cactus stores water, drying won't hurt the stem, but don't wait so long that it becomes shriveled.
Step 3 Fill a planting container with moistened perlite. Use a container with a drainage hole, as Christmas cactus rots in poorly drained, soggy soil.
Step 4 Plant the stem about an inch deep in the perlite. Water lightly to settle the perlite around the stem, then cover the container with a clear plastic bag. Seal the bag with a rubber band or twist tie.
Step 5 Place the container where the Christmas cactus cutting is exposed to bright, indirect light. Check the container two or three times every week, and add a small amount of water if the perlite feels dry. If condensation forms inside the bag, open the bag for an hour or two to provide ventilation. The stem should root in approximately six to eight weeks.
Step 6 Lift the Christmas cactus cutting from the soil using an old spoon. If the roots are at least an inch long, re-pot the stem in a fresh pot filled with a commercial potting soil for cactus or succulents. If the roots are less than an inch, replace the stem in the original container, and allow the roots to grow for a few more days before re-potting.
Step 7 Place your new Christmas cactus in bright, indirect light away from drafty doors or windows, air conditioners, heat vents or fireplaces. Water your Christmas cactus whenever the top inch of the soil feels dry, adding water until it drips through the drainage hole. Allow the pot to drain thoroughly before replacing the plant on the drainage saucer.
Step 8 Fertilize your Christmas cactus once every month during the summer, using a soluble fertilizer.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
While most cacti are very heat and drought tolerant, Christmas cacti are a little different. They are more like tropical plants than desert plants, so they're not as drought tolerant as the typical cactus. They also keep their beautiful blooms much longer in cooler temperatures. Many gardeners enjoy the challenge of keeping their Christmas cactus healthy throughout the year so they can enjoy their blossoms each Christmas season. This is harder than most would think, but with proper watering and maintenance it's entirely possible to enjoy your Christmas cactus for many Christmases.
There are not strict guidelines as to how often you should water your cactus. Instead, monitor the plant to determine when watering is necessary. According to Purdue University Extension's newsletter, you should, "water thoroughly when the top inch or so of soil feels dry to the touch." You may also notice the plant beginning to wilt if it goes too long without water. Purdue's Extension Service also notes that, "the length of time between waterings will vary with the air temperature, amount of light, rate of growth and relative humidity." Transplant
If your cactus dries out often or the flowers seem to wilt frequently, you may need to transplant it into a bigger container, rather than continually water it. To survive and thrive, Christmas cacti must have soil that drains easily. Purdue's newsletter recommends either purchasing potting soil mix for succulents or making your own by, "combining two parts plain potting soil with one part clean sand or vermiculite." Provide Correct Environment
While properly watering your Christmas cactus is important, it's also important for it to live in the correct environment. For example, keep it away from drafts from fireplaces and heat vents, and place it in a well-lit location. These two things are particularly important if you want your cactus to bloom. Extreme temperature change or drafts can make flower buds fall off the plant before they've even had a chance to open. Fertilize
In addition to proper watering, to further the likelihood that your Christmas cactus survives throughout the year, you should periodically fertilize it. Purdue's Extension Service recommends to simply use a fertilizer made for blooming houseplants and to follow the directions on the label for how and when to apply it. There is no need to fertilize the plant while it's in bloom.
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