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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Cactuses have a reputation for growing slowly, but among the 2,000-plus species is a wide variety of sizes and growth rates. Some never grow higher than a few inches while others may reach heights of 30 feet or higher. All cactus species grow fastest if they receive bright light and the correct amount of water and fertilizer. Making your cactus grow faster is a question of providing its ideal growing conditions during the warmer months of the year. Step 1 Re-pot your cactus in a ceramic pot slightly larger than its current container. Use gloves to prevent the spines from piercing the skin and also to prevent damage to the cactus. Plant it in compost formulated for succulents or a mixture of equal parts of potting soil and coarse sand. Re-plant your cactus at exactly the same level that it sat in its original pot. Step 2 Place your cactus on a bright, south-facing window sill or the sunniest spot in your home. Rotate the pot once a week to make sure growth is even. Aim to keep your cactus in an environment with temperatures ranging from 65 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit during the summer and 45 to 55 degrees during the winter.
Step 3 Water during the warmer months of the year, when the top inch of the soil is completely dry. Provide enough water to thoroughly moisten the compost and allow all excess liquid to drain away. During the winter, water only when the soil is completely dry or when your cactus starts to shrivel. Even then, provide only enough water to slightly moisten the soil. Step 4 Fertilize your cactus once a month during the warmer months of the year with a low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer formulated for succulents. Do not fertilize during the winter.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Grow mini cactuses in pots indoors for a low-maintenance, hardy houseplant. The plants require very little care to thrive. As long as they get lots of sun and are in a well-draining environment, mini cactuses grow happily for years. Proper potting is important in growing a healthy plant. The right potting soil and the care right after planting are critical for success. You can put your potted mini cactus outside in summer but be sure to bring it in before winter weather sets in since cactus plants tend to be frost-tender. Step 1 Select a pot 1 inch larger than the root mass or the nursery pot the mini cactus is currently in. Make sure the pot has at least one drain hole in the bottom to prevent excess water from accumulating around the roots. Mini cactuses grow well in 2- to 4-inch pots. Step 2 Spread a 1/4 to 1/2 inch of fine gravel in the bottom of the pot. Add a commercial potting soil formulated for cactuses and succulents -- regular potting soil holds too much moisture for a cactus. Step 3 Slip the mini cactus out of the nursery pot. Wear gloves to protect your hands from the sharp thorns. If the pot doesn't slip off the roots easily, give it a gentle squeeze to loosen the soil. Step 4 Place the mini cactus upright in the new pot. Hold it with the base of the stem 1/4 inch below the lip of the pot. Add more soil under the roots if you need to until the cactus sits on its own in the pot. Fill in around the root ball and gently press the soil down with your fingertips.
Step 5 Place the pot in a sunny spot after planting. Wait to water for two full weeks after you pot the mini cactus. The disturbed roots establish themselves better if left dry for a two-week period after planting. Step 6 Water once a month in winter and twice a month in spring, summer and early fall. Place the pot in the sink and run water over it until the liquid starts to drip out the drain holes in the bottom of the pot. Let the pot drain and then place it in a sunny window or outside in hot weather. Step 7 Fertilize mini cactuses every other month in spring and summer. Select a 5-10-10 fertilizer and apply it according to the manufacturer's instructions. Water well after fertilizing.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Succulent plants have thick, fleshy leaves that store water. Some varieties flower while others only produce attractive foliage and stems. Most succulents thrive in dry conditions because too much moisture can cause the plants to rot. Rocky soil that drains quickly works well for most succulent varieties. You can grow them indoors in a dish filled with gravel, which provides adequate moisture drainage, although some soil is still necessary to provide nutrients and a medium for the succulent roots. Step 1 Fill a 3- to 5-inch-deep pot or dish with a one inch layer of gravel. Use a dish with no bottom drainage holes. Step 2 Sprinkle a tablespoon of powdered activated charcoal over the top of the gravel layer. Charcoal prevents odors from developing in the moisture trapped within the the gravel layer. Step 3 Place a peat-based potting soil on top the gravel, filling the dish to within 1/2 inch of the rim. Alternatively, make your own mix by combining two parts peat with one part compost. Step 4 Water the soil layer until it is evenly moistened throughout. Stick your finger into the soil mixture to judge the moisture level.
Step 5 Plant the succulents in the potting soil. Set them so their roots are buried to the same depth. Spacing requirements depend on the specific plant type, but generally a 2- to 4-inch spacing is sufficient. Step 6 Water the succulents when the potting soil layer is completely dry. Provide only enough moisture to slightly dampen the soil. The excess moisture drains into the gravel bed beneath the soil.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

In hydroculture, also known as hydroponics, plants grow in a soilless medium known as substrate, where the roots anchor themselves. The substrate is usually sand or gravel and, unlike the soil in traditional planting, it does not hold nutrients. Hydroponic plants get nourishment from a water-based fertilizer. For succulents, make the feeding solution weaker than you would for other hydroponic specimens. About Succulents Succulents are plants that retain water in their leaves or stems, such as the cactus species. Adapted to dry climates, succulents look slightly to very swollen -- depending on the specimen -- because of the moisture they hold inside for times of drought. Growing Succulents Hydroponically Douglas Peckenpaugh, author of the book "Hydroponic Solutions, Volume 1," says that gardeners have to follow two rules to successfully grow succulents in hydroculture: Dilute the water-based fertilizer to half strength and use a substrate that lets the liquid seep through. River sand, gravel, perlite and vermiculite are good options. Buy the material of your choice sealed in a commercial package to guarantee sterility and prevent diseases from transferring to the succulent.
Why Hydroponics The purpose of soil in traditional gardening is to hold nutrients, according to the University of Alabama Cooperative Extension. When you water your plants, the minerals dissolve in the liquid and the roots absorb them. Plants grown hydroponically skip this step and sometimes grow faster as a result, since nourishment is always diluted and available in the water. If you capture the water-based fertilizer as it drains to feed it to your succulent multiple times, limit the food recycling to two weeks. At the end of that period, drench the substrate with water to flush old nutrient residue. After the medium becomes almost dry, begin to feed the plant a fresh batch of liquid feed. Feeding the Succulent To prevent saturating your succulent with water, which can kill it, allow the substrate to become mostly dry before refilling the hydroculture pot with liquid feed. But also take care to not let the plant sit in a dry medium for long periods of time. The feeding solution for hydroponic culture provides the same nutrients that traditionally grown plants need. Nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium, as well as calcium and magnesium, are needed in large amounts and considered macronutrients. Minerals such as iron, zinc and copper are trace elements required in small quantities. Recipes for you to prepare your own hydroponic feed exist, but using a commercial formula is simpler. The manufacturer calculates all the ratios among the nutrients with precision and gives you the application instructions. You just need to remember to weaken the formula to half-strength with water.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Agave plants are succulents that feature thick, water-filled leaves. They thrive in dry, hot conditions and can live for long periods without water. If the weather is too harsh, agave plants becomes dormant, shedding leaves until they take in water again. Agave plants can also suffer from a variety of diseases and pest infestations. Examining your agave plant's symptoms is the best way to determine the best treatment to nurse the plant back to health. Freezing Step 1 Examine the leaves of the agave plant for black areas. Freezing causes the agave leaves to turn black, eventually drying and falling off. Usually the agave plant recovers from external freeze damage when freezing temperatures only last a few hours. Step 2 Transplant the agave near the house or in a patio area that receives warmth from the house. Carefully remove the agave plant from the soil using a garden shovel. Step 3 Choose a well-drained area and plant the agave so that the agave tissue remains above the soil. Succulents planted too deeply cannot establish roots and eventually die. Sun Damage Step 4 Examine the agave for yellowing leaves and dropping leaves. Excessive sunlight causes these symptoms. Step 5 Transplant the agave to an area with partial shade following the instructions in Section 1, Steps 2 and 3. Step 6 Choose areas for transplanting where pine and oaks give partial shade or in an area protected from direct sunlight. Anthracnose Step 7 Examine your agave plant for orange or red spores or lesions on the leaves and leaf tops. Lesions form as a result of the spores. Wet weather is the cause of anthracnose, causing spores to spread over the plant from wind and rain. Step 8 Remove the leaf and avoid watering the plant with a sprinkler if you find spores or lesions.
Step 9 Protect the agave from the rain with a plastic covering until the lesions disappear. Helminthosporium Step 10 Check for soft, dark spots on the upper area of your agave plant. A fungus from the Helminthosporium species forms spores that infect the agave when carried by wind and rain, resulting in leaf rotting. Step 11 Apply fungicides to diminish the spread of the fungus by spraying both the upper and lower portions of the leaves. Spray fungicides around the agave base also. Step 12 Remove excessively infected plants to prevent spreading the spores to other plants. Insects Step 13 Examine the agave plant for wilted or yellow, scarred leaves. Female weevils lay eggs inside the base of the plant, causing wilting leaves and plant collapse from surface wounds, while the agave plant bug causes yellow leaves. Step 14 Apply broad-spectrum insecticides in the spring to control the agave weevil and plant bugs. Step 15 Spray the insecticides around the plant base to thoroughly destroy any weevils living in the soil. Spray the insecticide on the upper and lower surfaces of all leaves to prevent agave bug plant infestation.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Variously called "Ruby Ball," "Red Cap Cactus," "Moon Cactus" or "Hibotan" (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii var. friedrichii "Rubra" graft), this brightly colored plant results from grafting two different species of cactus together. The top part, the scion, can't live on its own, since it lacks chlorophyll, and it is essentially a parasite on the bottom rootstock plant. To grow the plant successfully you need to consider the growing requirements of both the scion and the rootstock. History The red mutation of the plaid cactus (Gymnocalycium mihanovichii) originated in Japan when a nurseryman noticed two completely red seedling plants among thousands of tiny seedlings. They were immediately grafted onto rootstock, since they wouldn't have lived long on their own without chlorophyll. From these two plants have come the millions of ruby ball cactus grown around the world as a houseplant. The bottom rootstock plant is usually night-blooming cereus (Hylocereus undatus) or blue myrtle cactus (Myrtillocactus geometrizans). Light The plaid cactus scion can't tolerate bright sunlight, since it doesn't have the shielding that chlorophyll offers. In addition, the parent species grows as a small cactus beneath sheltering shrubs in deserts of Paraguay and prefers shaded conditions. The night-blooming cereus rootstock also prefers shade, since it is a tropical cactus that grows beneath jungle trees. Blue myrtle cactus grows in direct sunlight but tolerates shaded conditions. For the sake of the scion, even when grown on sun-tolerant rootstock the plant needs bright indirect light.
Watering and Soil Both rootstocks are vigorous growers, but night-blooming cereus grows fastest, growing more than 40 feet on its own.This rootstock will need more watering than blue myrtle. Grow ruby ball grafts in well-draining cactus mix. Overwatering is more likely for the slower-growing more drought-tolerant blue myrtle. For both rootstocks, watch the top inch of soil. When it is dry, water the plant until water comes through the pot's drainage holes. The time interval varies, depending on the ambient temperatures, the soil mixture and how fast the plant is growing. Temperature The red scion is hardy in United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 11 through 12. The night-blooming cereus rootstock grows in USDA zones 10 through 11. This combination leads to quick death of both scion and rootstock if exposed to temperatures near freezing. Blue myrtle cactus is hardy in USDA zones 9 through 11. If ruby ball grafts on blue myrtle encounter freezing temperatures, the scion dies and the rootstock survives. Regrafting Over time, the tissue between the grafted cacti becomes corky and less viable. Growth of the scion slows or halts, with the scion eventually dying. You can prolong its life by regrafting it. Using a sharp knife sterilized with alcohol, cut the top off a seedling columnar cactus and cut the scion from the old rootstock. Identify the circle of vascular tissue toward the center of the stems of the scion and new rootstock, and press the plants together so the circles partially align. Put rubber bands over the scion and the bottom of the pot the rootstock is growing in, holding them together until the tissues grow together. Pruning Any time you notice that the rootstock is putting out a branch of its own, immediately remove it. If allowed to develop, the rootstock will give all the food and moisture to its own branch rather than to the grafted scion, and the scion dies. If the branch is young enough, you can simply twist it off or push it off. If it is larger, use sharp clean pruning shears or a sharp clean knife to remove it. Night-blooming cereus is the shortest-lived rootstock and produces more branches.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

For a cactus that's colorful out-of-bloom as well as in-bloom, grow rainbow cactus (Echinocereus rigidissimus, Echinocereus pectinatus var. rubrispinus). The short, cylindrical stem is densely covered with comb-shaped spines in alternating bands of red, pink, white and gray. In spring, bright magenta flowers at least 2 inches wide appear. Slow-growing plants rarely branch, so rainbow cactus is grown from seed. It is suited for container growing because of its need for excellent drainage. Light For best spine color and stem shape, grow rainbow cactus in the sun. In areas with hot summer temperatures and intense sun, partial shade in the afternoon is acceptable. The cactus is native to the southwestern United States and northern Mexico, growing in mountainous areas between 4,000 and 6,000 feet elevation. Plants are subject to hot, dry summers and increased levels of ultraviolet light because of the higher elevation, so you can grow them where more tender plants would fail. Cold-Hardiness One of the cold-hardier cacti, rainbow cactus tolerates short exposures to temperatures of 10 degrees Fahrenheit if the plant is kept dry, making it hardy in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 7 through 11. Leo Chance, author of "Cacti and Succulents for Cold Climates," reports rainbow cactus marginally hardy in USDA zone 5, enduring temperatures of minus 20 degrees Fahrenheit when protected with a thick mulch. If you grow rainbow cactus in a container, it will not be as cold hardy as if it is in the ground. For colder winter areas, keep the cactus and its soil dry in winter.
Soil Grow rainbow cactus in an open, fast-draining soil mix. You can use purchased cactus and succulent potting mix, but mix 1 part perlite with 2 parts of the potting mix to increase the drainage. Rainbow cactus reaches 12 inches high -- very rarely 18 inches -- so the plant is best enjoyed up close in a container where its color and markings are easily visible. Give the cactus a pot just slightly bigger than the plant's diameter for good drainage and so soil can dry out quickly between watering. In USDA zones 8 through 11, plants grow outdoors in well-drained garden beds such as rock gardens and mounded soil areas or raised beds in xeriscape gardens. Watering During the growing season, water rainbow cactus thoroughly and then let the soil dry out before watering it again. It is best to err on the side of underwatering for rainbow cactus, since it is susceptible to root rot if soil is too moist. Test the soil with your fingers or a soil probe halfway down the pot or in the garden bed at 2 inches into the soil. If you find moistness at that level, don't water the plant. Rainbow cactus goes dormant for the winter, so water it less frequently then, withholding water if the plant is in the ground.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月08日
Miss Chen

Miniature pine tree (Crassula tetragona) is a low-growing succulent shrub resembling a small pine tree, boasting a tree-like habit of bluish green, awl-shaped leaves and spring-blooming white flowers. A popular bonsai, miniature pine tree is often grown as a potted garden plant or houseplant, though it may also be grown directly in the garden where hardy. Aesthetically, miniature pine tree fits in well with rock gardens, bonsai plantings and zen-themed gardens. Location A native of South Africa, miniature pine tree is a heat-loving frost-sensitive plant, hardy to about 28 degrees Fahrenheit. It may be grown successfully outdoors in U.S. Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones 9 to 11, where it will thrive in full sunlight or light shade. Provide indoor plants a winter dormancy period with temperatures around 48 degrees Fahrenheit. Soil Like other succulents, miniature pine tree requires very well draining soil. Poorly draining soil, coupled with excessive irrigation, is a surefire recipe for the often fatal fungal disease root rot. A mixture of sand, loam, pea gravel and peat moss with a pH between 6.1 and 7.8 is ideal. Fertilize once during the growing season with a balanced 10-10-10 fertilizer diluted with water to about half strength.
Maintenance The low maintenance miniature pine tree requires water only once a month or so during the growing season, watering deeply, then allowing the soil to completely dry out before watering again. In the winter, water sparingly, just enough to keep the leaves from shriveling. Miniature pine tree may be propagated by leaf or stem cuttings, rooted in moist, well-draining potting media. The plant may also be divided during the growing season or grown by seed. Problems Members of the Crassula genus are prone to mealybugs -- small, cottony insects that form colonies on leaves. If left unchecked, they may stunt plant growth or invite unattractive black sooty mold. The University of California Integrated Pest Management Program recommends removing mealy bugs with a direct stream of water or applying insecticidal soap or narrow-range oil. Avoid excessive use of insecticides in the home garden, which can kill the beneficial insects and parasites that prey on mealybugs.
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Miss Chen
2017年08月07日
Miss Chen

Crocosmia
No late summer flower garden is complete without crocosmia's vibrant wands of scarlet, red, orange, and yellow. They offer a late pop of color when many gardens are languishing in the dog days. Their narrow, bladed foliage provides vertical accents much like gladiola leaves. The tubular blossoms beckon hummingbirds, and the seedpods that persist into fall also attract feathered visitors. Plant crocosmia bulbs in well-drained soil in fall or spring.
LIGHT:Sun TYPE:Bulb HEIGHT:From 1 to 8 feet WIDTH:To 3 feet wide FLOWER COLOR:Green, Orange, Red FOLIAGE COLOR:Chartreuse/Gold SEASONAL FEATURES:Summer Bloom PROBLEM SOLVERS:Deer Resistant, Drought Tolerant, Good For Privacy, Groundcover, Slope/Erosion Control SPECIAL FEATURES:Attracts Birds, Cut Flowers, Good for Containers, Low Maintenance ZONES:6-10
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